Are matched receivers any more accurate?

S

SuperSneakySniper

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Feb 16, 2017
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#1
Hey guys,
Thinking about my very first medium-long range AR15 build. Im new to the Precision semi-autos. Im just building a .223 Wylde 20 inch barrel, something to get me started in the PRS Gas Gun Light Division.
I was thinking about just using my Rainier Arms billet lower and buying the Rainier billet upper for it, so i can get a 6.5 Grendel upper later if I end up getting more into it. But then i came across some "matched" uppers and lowers which got me thinkin'.

I just wanted to know though, before i took the leap, is a matched receiver set any more accurate? Enough to justify the extra coin, and loss of upper swap flexibility?
 
#2
No. Not to any degree that you can conclusively say anything.

From what I've learned and heard for accurate AR's, put a high quality barrel on, torque towards the lower end of the spec (35-45 ft lb), and put a light crimp if you're reloading. Also heard of bedding the barrel to the upper but haven't seen anything conclusive there.
 
#3
A matched receiver will not make the rifle any more accurate, more aesthetically pleasing sure but not more accurate. Having a good barrel and quality match ammo is going to be the driving force behind an accurate AR platform. For me proven performers as far as barrels go that don't cost an arm and a leg have been White Oak Armament and Rainier Arms, RA being very impressive the past couple times I've used them. Out of the package, with no break in, they have been sub-MOA performers with 77 gr match ammo. With a non-indexing barrel nut I like to torque it to 45 ft/lbs and that seems to have worked just fine, that being said I also had a barrel nut that was torqued up to the higher end of the spectrum and it shot lights out too but that was one you had to index for the gas tube. I also wouldn't get too wound up about getting a matched bolt and barrel, I had a WOA barrel with a matched bolt that was actually less accurate than the other rifle I had that also had a WOA barrel where I was using a CMT BCG from Bravo Company. When I went to a Rainier Arms barrel I used the same CMT BCG since it didn't have a lot of rounds on it, dropped it in the receiver, no headspacing, and it was stupid accurate, like 10 shots at 100 yards you could cover with a nickle. My precision AR was the same way, RA barrel, BCM BCG, drop it in and go, 3/4 MOA at 100 yards no problem with factory 77 grain match. The key is to use quality components and not get wrapped up in marketing catch phrases.
 
#5
Huh... Thanks guys for the input! I think you guys saved me some dough here. I was curious about the matched bolt/barrel combos as well, glad that is cleared up!
Yeah I was thinking about going with the Rainier Arms Select Match barrel, if not a Criterion. Thanks for the help fellas!
 
#6
Just to add on to what the others have said, the only thing Ive noticed between matched receivers and traditional forged receivers, is the fit and trying correct cant when torquing the pistol grip and the lower receiver moves before the upper receiver. Not a big deal but still present, and can be fixed with an accuwedge or some lower receivers actually have a tension screw to push up on the back end of the upper receiver.
 
#7
Just to add on to what the others have said, the only thing Ive noticed between matched receivers and traditional forged receivers, is the fit and trying correct cant when torquing the pistol grip and the lower receiver moves before the upper receiver. Not a big deal but still present, and can be fixed with an accuwedge or some lower receivers actually have a tension screw to push up on the back end of the upper receiver.
 
#8
^ That's perfect because the Rainier Arms Billet lower I have has that tensioning screw you are talking about! That seals the deal, i'll use the lower i originally planned on and just have mutiple uppers. Thanks!
 
#9
More accurate? Let's just say just because it's "matched" "billet" doesn't mean it won't rattle like a bag of beer cans. Be careful who you go with with regards to manufacture and test the fit before you actually build the rifle.
 
#11
308pirate said:
The two biggest bullshit words in the AR world. Lots of gullible people fall for them.
Click to expand...

Gotchya, good thing I know now. As for the billet, i just got it because I thought it looked neat lol. I am well aware there are no benefits in using a billet receiver, except maybe the ambi controls and that tensioning screw on this particular model.
 
#12
The thing that creates accuracy from the rifle standpoint is the upper. From the 'shooters accuracy standpoint, there are a couple of things you need to be aware of:. The fit. Sloppy fit between upper and lower isn't going to affect the accuracy of the upper. But, it will affect your accuracy with the rifle, as the hold may not be the same as that lower flops back and forth. It affects your hold/head position, which affects accuracy. Find a way to get a tighter fit, as you did with the tensioner is one good way. Getting an accuwedge is another way.

The​​​​The other issue with a lower is an 11 lb. trigger pull. Get a decent trigger. That problem is more easily solved. But, usually more expensive.
 
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#13
sandwarrior said:
The thing that creates accuracy from the rifle standpoint is the upper. From the 'shooters accuracy standpoint, there are a couple of things you need to be aware of:. The fit. Sloppy fit between upper and lower isn't going to affect the accuracy of the upper. But, it will affect your accuracy with the rifle, as the hold may not be the same as that lower flops back and forth. It affects your hold/head position, which affects accuracy. Find a way to get a tighter fit, as you did with the tensioner is one good way. Getting an accuwedge is another way.

The​​​​The other issue with a lower is an 11 lb. trigger pull. Get a decent trigger. That problem is more easily solved. But, usually more expensive.
Click to expand...

Okay cool, looks like my build is coming along nicely then. Since i'm new to semi-auto precision rifles, I didn't know what kind of trigger everyone else was running, so I planned on just dropping in one of my 3-Gun triggers. It's a single stage, a Hiperfire 24c, about 2 pound pull. Idk if it fits this role, but I figured since I already had one, I'd try it out. If anyone has a better suggestion, lemme know and I'll look into it!
 
#15
Yep, my last sbr upper was a bcm with a bcm bcg and noveske barrel. It was said earlier in the thread but barrel, trigger, and glass will get you an accurate ar.
 
#16
The proof is in the pudding here. I took an Anderson lower and upper, but then put a Gieselle SSAE and a Bartlein 1:7.7 twist barrel on it and it shoots anything from 50gr to 77gr very well. No fancy $250 handguard, no $250 BCG, and a $100 receiver set..worked like a charm.

Should probably put better optics on it, but so far the $150 Primary Arms 4-14 has been working as well as my $700 PST 2.5-10.


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#17
JoeBUtah said:
Barrel, Trigger, Glass....
Click to expand...

...and ammo. "Fit" upper/lower combos have never been a deciding factor for me in the 30+ builds done in various calibers. Billet upper/lowers might come into play if you want to add, or subtract, weight depending on given use of the weapon. There are some very lightweight (2A armament to name 1) billet upper/lower combos out there for sub 5lb AR builds or pic up a nice "thick" upper/lower combo to increase weight for that varmint/bench gun.
 
#18
It's surprising that no one has mentioned the headspacing of the bolt.

You have 0.006" between min and max headspacing with the cartridge. Most decent bolt manufacturers hold +/- 0.002" tolerance off the middle of the headspacing spectrum. This means that in practice every properly made bolt should function in every properly chambered barrel.

For best accuracy, you want a tighter rather than a looser bolt. For a hard use gun, geared more toward reliability, your optimum headspacing is more toward the middle of the headspacing spectrum. There are two ways to achieve the optimum headspacing for a given application.

The first is to have the barrel chambered for a specific bolt to a headspace dimension you specify based on the application intended.

The second is to have a selection of headspace gauges in 0.001" increments plus a generous selection of bolts.

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These bolts shown have recently been Ionbond DLC coated, along with (not shown) extractor, firing pin, cam pin, gas rings, bolt carrier, etc. I use these bolts with PTG headspace gauges in 0.001" increments to get the fit I want with a given barrel.
 
#19
I'll agree with the other comments that upper/lower fit isn't a high priority for accuracy. However, a good fit doesn't make anything worse, and it certainly feels better. To that end, I like to bed the upper and lower together on some of mine, and on others just use an O-ring around the front upper lug. Bedding these is very simple, I use just a dab of black RTV on each side of the lower near the front lug and in the curve at the rear where it transitions up to the buffer tube threads. Some wax on the upper to prevent sticking, and an O-ring on the front lug to spring the upper and lower apart is all that's needed. Once it cures, you have a tight solid fit and don't need an O ring any more.

On the headspace thing - that's another advantage of loading your own, then it just doesn't matter.
 
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