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Are my loading methods for 5.56 AR ammo dated?

rdinak

Sergeant
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Minuteman
Feb 17, 2003
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Birmingham, AL
Teaching a buddy how to load .223 for multiple AR's. I want to know with absolute certainty that my reloads will work in any of my AR's. So instead of chasing a unicorn, I stick with an established load that is known to work well and groups well.( 69 SMK, TAC, Wolf primers)

Brass-Once fired LC purchased in bulk when the military sold it cheap.

Methods
  • Dry tumble to get the crud off and get the case clean enough for inspection.
  • Lube with imperial wax
  • Full length resize on Redding T7 using small base die-Single stage press allows for time to inspect case prior to moving further into process
  • Tumble again to remove lube.
  • Use Giraud trimmer to trim all brass
  • Use Red Neck designed reduction motor with Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer/Cutter head to remove crimp in brass- Inspect brass for defects again before moving on
  • Feed processed brass to Dillon 550 to drop powder, seat bullet and apply light crimp.
  • All finished rounds are gauged in an EGW case gauge before being labeled and boxed.
So after resizing half a five gallon bucket of brass on the Redding my guest ask why are we doing all this? Why not just load .223 on your 1050?

I think I have become that grumpy old guy. Just doing things the way i was taught.
 
Lotta cats getting skinned this morning in the reloading section...OR is it a naked kitty fetish?

@rdinak if this were me loading bulk 223 I'd use a light spray of hornady one shot instead of the imperial...that would allow me to skip the tumble after sizing and I'd load on the 1050...this would be just to save time...if you have lots of time then by all means continue what your doing.

When I was shooting a BRA 99% of my reloading was done on a Dillion 750...powder was weighed/dispensed on a V3/FX120 and poured through a Dillon powder die and funnel...sizing, priming and bullet seating all done on the 750.
 
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No mines about the same but I use a wet tumbler and a swagger die instead of dry and a reamer. I use the imperial too, just because it’s cheaper and it’s something I’ve always used.
 
I load my .223 on a S1050.

First tool head size, swage and trim, mandrel size.

Second tool head clean cob from primer hole, drop 8208XBR at a consistent 23.2 or so, place a 77 SMK, seat.

To lube the brass I put handfuls into the cardboard from a case of beer, squirt it down with lanolin and alcohol lube, shake, shake, shake and let the alcohol flash off.

Works great ammo shoots great.
 
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Teaching a buddy how to load .223 for multiple AR's. I want to know with absolute certainty that my reloads will work in any of my AR's. So instead of chasing a unicorn, I stick with an established load that is known to work well and groups well.( 69 SMK, TAC, Wolf primers)

Brass-Once fired LC purchased in bulk when the military sold it cheap.

Methods
  • Dry tumble to get the crud off and get the case clean enough for inspection.
  • Lube with imperial wax
  • Full length resize on Redding T7 using small base die-Single stage press allows for time to inspect case prior to moving further into process
  • Tumble again to remove lube.
  • Use Giraud trimmer to trim all brass
  • Use Red Neck designed reduction motor with Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer/Cutter head to remove crimp in brass- Inspect brass for defects again before moving on
  • Feed processed brass to Dillon 550 to drop powder, seat bullet and apply light crimp.
  • All finished rounds are gauged in an EGW case gauge before being labeled and boxed.
So after resizing half a five gallon bucket of brass on the Redding my guest ask why are we doing all this? Why not just load .223 on your 1050?

I think I have become that grumpy old guy. Just doing things the way i was taught.
This is the way...that I do it as well. I also prime on the single stage because my Dillon 550 screws up too many primers at todays prices. One is too many.
I used to swage primer pockets, but a lot of my 556 brass is so severely crimped that wasn't getting it done any more, so I went to reaming.
 
For bulk loading of 5.56 for classes etc & not precision loads I use a home made spray on lube not wax & load on the 650. Using once fired LC brass & 55 grain tips I get excellent accuracy and reliability in the ammo.
 
I would send the bucket of brass to msprocessedbrass and let them do all the work for a nickel a piece. Then I would run it through my Giraud and load it. If you insist on doing it yourself then bulk lube the brass like others have mentioned. I use one shot and a gallon ziplock bag to bulk lube.
 
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I think this is too complicated. for starting out and just shooting AR's. No need.

Just get cleaned brass....put it in tray of 50 or 100. Spray it with Hornady One SHOT. Then run it through Dillon 550, size, then dump powder, then seat, then light taper crimp.

Done. So your only step is spray with ONE SHOT. THATS IT. Then run through 550.

no need for all that imperial wax, or gauging, or trimming, or whatever. no need at all. Now if you are trying for 1 hole groups and accuracy...then you need to expand your method.
 
I feel my method is pretty quick and have gotten pretty good results for accuracy. SD is normally around the mid 20's depending on if I'm using 748 or H335. All processing is done on a 1050 with a case feeder. Cases are normally surplus or range pickup. I'll knock the dirt off then and make sure they aren't filled with sand otherwise the dirty cases get dumped in a cardboard box with some dawn. Knead until covered and then give them a bit of time to dry. Run through the 1050 to swage, size and trim then toss into the stainless media. Since they are already coated with soap it goes pretty quick. Dry in front of heater they they are ready to load. I've used lanolin, one shot, Redding imperial etc but it always seemed to make a mess and was hard to get off and I had to handle twice. Dawn was the key if you wet tumble. You do have to make sure dies get cleaned so they don't rust.