Are there any tips or techniques that help you spot your own shots when shooting from high recoiling rifles at long range?

[HoneyPigeon]

I'm planning on getting into long range shooting and I'm also interested in shooting some of the higher recoiling calibers such as 7mm RM and .338 Lapua, but since I'm going to be shooting alone it's very vital for me to know where my bullet hit, otherwise there's no way for me to properly practice.

Since it's also important to me that I can carry such rifles, they won't be weighing a fuck ton. So I wanted to ask here if it's possible in any way to go around this problem? I'm not expecting a magical easy simple solution to this, all I really want to know if it's even realistically achievable to have have a high caliber rifle that you can carry around for longer periods of time but also manage to spot your own shots when shooting such rifles at a longer distance.

Any insight is appreciated, thank you.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Yep. Put a brake or a can on the end of it.

Lots of guys prefer brakes due to the different recoil pulse than that of a can, but both help reduce felt recoil.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

And welcome to the hide.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

And welcome to the hide.

Thank you very much.

And I forgot to clarify that I would indeed be using either a brake or a suppressor on it, but seeing how scary of a round such as .338 lapua for example can be just looking at it's specifications and performance, even though I never shot it, I doubted it would be enough.

I care less about how comfortable it is to shoot rather making sure I know where my shot lands.

 

[Dthomas3523]

If you’re properly applying the fundamentals of marksmanship, you’ll be fine. Should be able to see anything past 3-500yds without a problem.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

If you’re properly applying the fundamentals of marksmanship, you’ll be fine. Should be able to see anything past 3-500yds without a problem.

Sounds great! Thank you.

 

[Precision Underground]

If you have a .308 or 6.5 you need to take the brake off of it and shoot it a lot. The only way you will know if your fundamentals are correct is if you can control recoil. If you’re using a brake on a 308 or 6.5 you don’t have enough recoil to know if you’re doing it right.

 

[diverdon]

Make sure you are lined straight behind the rifle. Make sure you are relaxed. Make sure you do not flinch. Medium powers on scope may work better than high powers.

 

[mahlv]

Check out the larger, 5 port style brakes. I have used the piercision muscle brake,and the new fat bastard, both are awesome with larger magnums. I have the piercision muscle brake on a sub 12lb 7mag and it's a dream to shoot.

 

[GMANinMO]

If you’re properly applying the fundamentals of marksmanship, you’ll be fine. Should be able to see anything past 3-500yds without a problem.

Seconded! I shot my buddy's Barrett M99 with a suppressor and was able to spot trace and watch the impact at 1100 yds, focusing on good fundamentals. I felt really cool.

Also, that rifle is the definition of "that was fun to do once."

 

[Diver160651]

Check out the larger, 5 port style brakes. I have used the piercision muscle brake,and the new fat bastard, both are awesome with larger magnums. I have the piercision muscle brake on a sub 12lb 7mag and it's a dream to shoot.

I am surprised so few people jumped in without weight qualifiers, except mahlv.

I have 3 7mags with different weights.

This 7mm magnum with CF- light fill stock is 28oz, CF bolt knob, Ti action-rail, CF barrel, brake, and one of the lightest full-featured FFP scopes, runs in the upper 9lbs range. If you're in a great position self-spotting is not hard, but it's not a rifle you want to shoot all day, every day. Honestly, you have to work hard to get a magnum with full-featured FFP scope, brake, and rings this light.

Stand from a tripod and you're either going to have to load the tripod so hard, your wobble zone will increase or you'll be re-aquiring your target and will need something past 300y-400y to see the impact. Below my Son is shooting it from standing; you can see it bumps a bit standing, even driven forward, hips bent.

These are not the kind of guns you want to shoot all day.

I had another that has short penciled/fluted barreled 4.9lbs base weight, then pair it with a less featured scope that's about 1-1/2lbs lighter and suddenly it is a beast for anyone to shoot, even with great fundamentals. However, I also have a 26" m24 barreled, with a 4lbs stock and a scope that's about 1-1/2lbs heavier, heavier rings and a debatable bottom metal that ends up being about 16lbs; it's just a pussy cat to shoot. Just as my heavier 338s were.

The point is, you need to think about the entire system before anyone can accurately answer your question. a couple of pounds once in the lighter magnums, are a HUGE deal. If you're planning on shooting targets, make sure you get a system with the appropriate barrel and system weight; don't go get a Kimber Mountain ascent or a Tikka T3 Light.. or some other system in that weight class.

Don't worry if your brake has 3 ports or 5 ports. Well-designed ports are far more important than the number of ports. Yes, brakes are noisy, especially undercover and or to your spotter if they aren't behind you. When outside, as long as you have the rifle tucked in properly close to your centerline and not a couple of inches further out on your shoulder, you'll not experience as much noise as some people experience. Don't be afraid to get brake A over brake B because someone claims A is load, rather make sure you have the buttstock tucking in tight as close to your centerline as possible.

​

 

[Dthomas3523]

I assumed if he’s buying a 7mm or a 338LM he’s going to be shooting further than 400yds. Otherwise, wrong cartridge choice.

And anything inside of 400 with these two, environment really isn’t a factor. IE, missing shouldn’t happen often. If so, it’s time to back up and revisit fundamentals.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

The point is, you need to think about the entire system before anyone can accurately answer your question. a couple of pounds once in the lighter magnums, are a HUGE deal. If you're planning on shooting targets, make sure you get a system with the appropriate barrel and system weight; don't go get a Kimber Mountain ascent or a Tikka T3 Light.. or some other system in that weight class.

I very much appreciate everyone's opinions on here, helps me out a lot.

Would you reckon that a 12 pound (fully set up) .338 lapua, assuming I do my job properly and get a nice brake would fit my requirements? The requirements, just to be specific being long term portability and manageable muzzle rise/jump/whatever, because 12 pounds max would be optimal for me.

Or are 250 gr .338 lapuas generally meant to be shot out of heavier rifles? Just about every .338 lap rifle I see online weighs in the 15-16 pound range, so I'm just asking for general opinions.

 

[ArTeeKay]

I very much appreciate everyone's opinions on here, helps me out a lot.

Would you reckon that a 12 pound (fully set up) .338 lapua, assuming I do my job properly and get a nice brake would fit my requirements? The requirements, just to be specific being long term portability and manageable muzzle rise/jump/whatever, because 12 pounds max would be optimal for me.

Or are 250 gr .338 lapuas generally meant to be shot out of heavier rifles? Just about every .338 lap rifle I see online weighs in the 15-16 pound range, so I'm just asking for general opinions.

A 12# 338 would not be pleasant to shoot, brake or not. I'm sure it would be fine for hunting purposes, where you are not running more than a handful of rounds through it at a time. For my part, I'd start at 18-20#, all up, for the Lapua. A 12# loaded 7mm RM would be just fine though, and you'd be giving up very little, if anything ,ballistically; especially if you'll be handloading.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

A 12# 338 would not be pleasant to shoot, brake or not. I'm sure it would be fine for hunting purposes, where you are not running more than a handful of rounds through it at a time. For my part, I'd start at 18-20#, all up, for the Lapua. A 12# loaded 7mm RM would be just fine though, and you'd be giving up very little, if anything ,ballistically; especially if you'll be handloading.

I definitely expect discomfort due to the cut weight, for sure. But I'm fine with that as the added recoil doesn't scale 1:1 with the muzzle jump that would prevent one from spotting their shots in the grand scale.

 

[Diver160651]

I very much appreciate everyone's opinions on here, helps me out a lot.

Would you reckon that a 12 pound .338 lapua, assuming I do my job properly and get a nice brake would fit my requirements? The requirements, just to be specific being long term portability and manageable muzzle rise/jump/whatever, because 12 pounds max would be optimal for me.

Or are 250 gr .338 lapuas generally meant to be shot out of heavier rifles? Just about every .338 lap rifle I see online weighs in the 15-16 pound range, so I'm just asking for general opinions.

12 lbs is still a very light target package, in a 338LM it is even more so. Remember I was talking about the weight of the system, not just the base weight. There is just no free lunch.

People using really good skills "can" self spot lighter rifles than someone not using the same fundamentals; however, at some point, it becomes almost unbearable. For many shooters, light magnums become the perfect tool to teach them how to flinch. It's so prevalent that the name "Flinch Factory" has been coined; this for a very good reason.

Here is what I mean about base weight. A AI 33* with 27" barrel is about 14lbs. Add a full-featured scope and that's 2LB + Caps, level, rings, nice wide sling with QR buckles and you're going to be close to 18-1/2lbs + pop on a bipod and your system weight is pushing 20LBS depending on your selections. A Savage 110BA with its thinner shorter barrel is about 11.5LBs but again, your going to add way more weight than people might imagine. Heck without rings, scope caps a RazorG2 is 3LBS alone, even a ZCO 27x about 2.4lbs. So your adding between 5-6lbs. to the Savage or any ELR rifle with all the bells.

So a 12lbs 338 in ELR trim, is kinda rare; it would NOT be the system weight I would chase as a target rifle.

Judging by your response above, you seem to know what you want, so did every flincher I've ever shot next to. Developing a flinch is like riding a bike, once you develop that "skill" you almost never forget it..

 

[ArTeeKay]

I definitely expect discomfort due to the cut weight, for sure. But I'm fine with that as the added recoil doesn't scale 1:1 with the muzzle jump that would prevent one from spotting their shots in the grand scale.

Part of the issue, and I think what Diver is getting at as well, is not that you can't spot your own shots with a rifle like that, it's that you simply won't want to after a certain point. You are going to have a very tough time becoming proficient with a rifle that recoils heavily and is loud because of an aggressive brake. I'm not trying to say you can't do it. What I am saying is, like Diver says, is think very carefully about whether you actually want to.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

People using really good skills "can" self spot lighter rifles than someone not using the same fundamentals; however, at some point, it becomes almost unbearable. For many shooters, light magnums become the perfect tool to teach them how to flinch. It's so prevalent that the name "Flinch Factory" has been coined; this for a very good reason.

Yeah that sounds about right.

Not that I would go directly for a .338 lapua first, I'd obviously go for something like a 6.5 creedmoor or a 308 first, I was just curious if aspiring to eventually get a manageable 12 pound .338 at some point was reasonable, but as I assumed it's a pretty difficult endeavor.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

Part of the issue, and I think what Diver is getting at as well, is not that you can't spot your own shots with a rifle like that, it's that you simply won't want to after a certain point. You are going to have a very tough time becoming proficient with a rifle that recoils heavily and is loud because of an aggressive brake. I'm not trying to say you can't do it. What I am saying is, like Diver says, is think very carefully about whether you actually want to.

I completely understand, I appreciate the warning and I will keep that in mind.

 

[Shootin Stuff]

fat bastard, plugs and muffs. Anything past a few hundred yards your NPA should resettle before impacting the target.

 

[1moaoff]

Thank you very much.

And I forgot to clarify that I would indeed be using either a brake or a suppressor on it, but seeing how scary of a round such as .338 lapua for example can be just looking at it's specifications and performance, even though I never shot it, I doubted it would be enough.

I care less about how comfortable it is to shoot rather making sure I know where my shot lands.

If 338 is scary you should not even consider it.

 

[Precision Underground]

12 lbs is still a very light target package, in a 338LM it is even more so. Remember I was talking about the weight of the system, not just the base weight. There is just no free lunch.

People using really good skills "can" self spot lighter rifles than someone not using the same fundamentals; however, at some point, it becomes almost unbearable. For many shooters, light magnums become the perfect tool to teach them how to flinch. It's so prevalent that the name "Flinch Factory" has been coined; this for a very good reason.

Here is what I mean about base weight. A AI 33* with 27" barrel is about 14lbs. Add a full-featured scope and that's 2LB + Caps, level, rings, nice wide sling with QR buckles and you're going to be close to 18-1/2lbs + pop on a bipod and your system weight is pushing 20LBS depending on your selections. A Savage 110BA with its thinner shorter barrel is about 11.5LBs but again, your going to add way more weight than people might imagine. Heck without rings, scope caps a RazorG2 is 3LBS alone, even a ZCO 27x about 2.4lbs. So your adding between 5-6lbs. to the Savage or any ELR rifle with all the bells.

So a 12lbs 338 in ELR trim, is kinda rare; it would NOT be the system weight I would chase as a target rifle.

Judging by your response above, you seem to know what you want, so did every flincher I've ever shot next to. Developing a flinch is like riding a bike, once you develop that "skill" you almost never forget it..

This is true. Even with perfect fundamentals a lightweight magnum can be nearly untamable. Sure you can handle it for a shot or two on game but you’ll need to practice a lot to be able to spot those few shots. That practice won’t be fun. It’s not that the light rifle recoils more. The light rifle produces about the same energy as a heavy rifle but it’s less mass and more speed. That makes it harder to absorb recoil from a light rifle. Picture a ping pong ball shot at high speed into a padded surface like a wrestling mat. The ball is so light it can’t really make use of the pad. It just bounces off.

The answer to this is a softer pad. That means a lighter hold into a softer shoulder which is not going to be fun at all with a 12lb .338. I had a 18LB(ish)300 Norma that was fun to shoot with no brake. Violent, yes.....but it was heavy enough that I could pull firmly into my shoulder and all the recoil would go through me and into the ground. I could channel the recoil and stay on target which was actually a fun ride. The recoil from the 300 Norma taught me a ton. It’s now a .338 and we’ll see if I need to learn more once I try it with no brake. My guess is I’ll learn some more lol.

My advice would be to shoot a light, unbraked .308 or 6.5 for a while and see how well you can control it. Then decide if you want a 12lb .338. I find big recoil fun and I wouldn’t want anything to do with a rifle like this lol.

 

[Dthomas3523]

This is true. Even with perfect fundamentals a lightweight magnum can be nearly untamable. Sure you can handle it for a shot or two on game but you’ll need to practice a lot to be able to spot those few shots. That practice won’t be fun. It’s not that the light rifle recoils more. The light rifle produces about the same energy as a heavy rifle but it’s less mass and more speed. That makes it harder to absorb recoil from a light rifle. Picture a ping pong ball shot at high speed into a padded surface like a wrestling mat. The ball is so light it can’t really make use of the pad. It just bounces off.

The answer to this is a softer pad. That means a lighter hold into a softer shoulder which is not going to be fun at all with a 12lb .338. I had a 18LB(ish)300 Norma that was fun to shoot with no brake. Violent, yes.....but it was heavy enough that I could pull firmly into my shoulder and all the recoil would go through me and into the ground. I could channel the recoil and stay on target which was actually a fun ride. The recoil from the 300 Norma taught me a ton. It’s now a .338 and we’ll see if I need to learn more once I try it with no brake. My guess is I’ll learn some more lol.

My advice would be to shoot a light, unbraked .308 or 6.5 for a while and see how well you can control it. Then decide if you want a 12lb .338. I find big recoil fun and I wouldn’t want anything to do with a rifle like this lol.

Softer pads transfer recoil much mess evenly to the shooter.

It “feels” better, but you’ll get better management and consistency with a stiffer pad.

 

[Rocketmandb]

I do a fair amount of solo shooting, both at a private range and out in the middle of nowhere and spotting hits depends primarily on the following:

Backstop:
- Not important for hits, but for misses this is critical.
- Shooting into soft, wet ground or, worse yet, foliage is difficult to see, even with relatively larger bullets at anything beyond medium ranges (~1k)
- Dry dirt is great because the puffs that come up can be spotted way out. Depending on range and bullet/speed, it can be easier to spot misses against the right backdrop than it can to spots hits on steel.

Bullet and Range
- For bullets, the faster and heavier the better. I tend to favor weight over speed.
- The heavier/faster, the more energy and thus the higher ability to spot both hits and misses.
- As examples, on a good day with my little 6mm, I can self-spot hits on steel at maybe 1k-1200. With my 300, a mile+ is not an issue. Beyond that things can start to be an issue.
- Weather conditions obviously play a role.

Recoil Management
- If you're shooting with poor fundamentals that increase both the recoil you return into the rifle and how those forces move the rifle, then getting an appropriate sight picture after the shot is more difficult.
- The quicker you can get to an effective view after the shot, the more readily you'll be able to spot the hits and misses.
- If you're moving too much, then work on fundamentals to reduce that (soft shoulder, positioning, etc.)

Scope
- The longer range, the more glass quality matters.
- For ELR, I far prefer uncluttered reticles. Too many lines and marks make it tougher to self-spot.

Cadence
- When I'm self-spotting, I have a cadence after the shot.
- Know about how long it takes for your bullet to arrive on target, and start counting, "one, one thousand... hit"
- Knowing when to be scrutinizing for the impact allows you to be ready and focus more.

 

[theLBC]

i think it is hard to know what people will think is "heavy" or unpleasant.
is it possible a 12lb .338 might be shootable for some and not for others? even so, is that where anyone should start?
what have you shot already? any experience with heavy shotgun loads from a pump?

even .308 can be easy or harder recoiling.
my scar 20s is a joy to shoot all day for anyone, but it's a gas gun with a brake that weighs in at almost 15lb.
on the other hand, most people have had enough after a full magazine with my 8lb. .308 levergun (only 4 rounds).
if you don't pull that rifle in tight like a shotgun and you let it accelerate, it isn't fun.

 

[oldiephrt]

Rocketmandb nailed it !!! Backstop is primary.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Rocketmandb nailed it !!! Backstop is primary.

Yeah, if I can find the time today, I'll put together videos of two nearly identical range shots (~1500), one where the target was in a gulley where rain water concentrates, so the soil was wetter, vs. another where the target is on a dry hillside. Night and day difference.

And the two shooting spots are within maybe two miles of each other, so aside from hillside vs. gully, it's the same underlying soil, etc.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Here's a quick video showing the differences in underlying soil. Granted, the first is with an inferior optic, but it's not hard to see the difference. Again, same basic place. If in the first one we had just walked 50 feet or so up a hill, we would have been able to spot so much better.

 

[Newbie2020]

@Dthomas3523 i think recoil management is critical to how unbearable the magnum will be. Heavier rifle is the east button.

But I know a guy who fired the new Hoplite Aspis (14 lbs? 16 lbs?) 300NM 100 rds in a single range session with no unpleasant effects of recoil.

Maybe that’s no 12 lb 338 LM but it’s a handful. I’d like to get to this point with my shooting.

 

[Precision Underground]

Softer pads transfer recoil much mess evenly to the shooter.

It “feels” better, but you’ll get better management and consistency with a stiffer pad.

Pad was an analogy referring to the wrestling mat/ping ping ball. I don’t mean a softer but pad.....

A softer pad per the analogy would mean a lighter hold that’s not pulled so tightly into the shoulder. That’s why I said it would be very unpleasant.

 

[Precision Underground]

@Dthomas3523 i think recoil management is critical to how unbearable the magnum will be. Heavier rifle is the east button.

But I know a guy who fired the new Hoplite Aspis (14 lbs? 16 lbs?) 300NM 100 rds in a single range session with no unpleasant effects of recoil.

Maybe that’s no 12 lb 338 LM but it’s a handful. I’d like to get to this point with my shooting.

A 16 lb 300 Norma with a good brake is not a lot of recoil. 12lbs vs 16lbs is a huge difference.

 

[theLBC]

Mechanics of the Firing Hand

Sniper's Hide, Precision Rifle Instruction, Training Shooters, Acccuracy International Rifle Bipod, Fundamentals of Marksmanship Mechanics

www.snipershide.com

 

[HoneyPigeon]

Mechanics of the Firing Hand

Sniper's Hide, Precision Rifle Instruction, Training Shooters, Acccuracy International Rifle Bipod, Fundamentals of Marksmanship Mechanics

www.snipershide.com

Thank you for the link!

I did not expect this forum to be so helpful, specific and understanding. No offense intended, but I honestly expected a bunch of boomer larpers here, I'm very glad I was wrong.

 

[Rocketmandb]

I did not expect this forum to be so helpful, specific and understanding. No offense intended, but I honestly expected a bunch of boomer larpers here, I'm very glad I was wrong.

Like anywhere, there are helpful types and no so helpful types and grumpy types, etc. - sometimes all in the same person, depending on the day. For the most egregious types, well... that's what the ignore function is for.

There is a wealth of knowledge here, and Frank has set this place up and grown a community in such a way that free flow of that information happens effectively. I've found Snipers Hide to be one of the most effective places to gain knowledge as long as you:

1) Don't ask a question then state your position on the subject like you're an expert. By the way, before you ask, Mil
2) Do a little research before asking, and come in with an intelligently formed question. "Why do people spend so much on these top end scopes when the Vortex Strike Eagle is just as good for 1/10th the price?" is an example of a combination of breaking #1 and #2 at the same time.
3) Don't be afraid of asking intelligent questions. In a discipline this complex and with so many sub-disciplines, everyone has something to learn - though some people forget that. You can't engage unless you, well, engage.
4) Even with all of the above, expect there to be some grappling over the answer, because in many cases there is no one right answer - though everyone knows, even if they won't admit it, that 6 BRA >>>>> 6 Dasher. Clearly.
5) Don't go anywhere near the Bear Pit until you've grown thick enough skin to deflect a 375 Cheytac.

 

[Lowlight]

Recoil management with a 20” 338 and 125lbs shooter

 

[Newbie2020]

Thank you for the link!

I did not expect this forum to be so helpful, specific and understanding. No offense intended, but I honestly expected a bunch of boomer larpers here, I'm very glad I was wrong.

What the —- is a boomer larper?

 

[Newbie2020]

Recoil management with a 20” 338 and 125lbs shooter

That should be a sticky vid.
Good fundamentals + good rifle setup = good recoil management.

 

[Rocketmandb]

What the —- is a boomer larper?

The boomer part I get - 55+ish in age.

The larper part, I'm assuming in our context would be a gear geek playing military sniper, all dressed up, etc. Yeah, I shoot in sweat pants as often as not. Of course, since covid, I pretty much live in sweat pants.

Technically, LARP is an acronym for "Live Action Role Play"

 

[Newbie2020]

I guess I’m a boomer larper then! Awesome! I’m always cammoed up sitting at the concrete bench at my local range. I wear all gray. Haha

 

[Rocketmandb]

I guess I’m a boomer larper then! Awesome! I’m always cammoed up sitting at the concrete bench at my local range. I wear all gray. Haha

Nice. I'm not that color coordinated. I almost exclusively shoot in Duluth Trading long tail shirts. No plumbers crack while prone!

 

[Newbie2020]

^^^good call

 

[HoneyPigeon]

The boomer part I get - 55+ish in age.

The larper part, I'm assuming in our context would be a gear geek playing military sniper, all dressed up, etc. Yeah, I shoot in sweat pants as often as not. Of course, since covid, I pretty much live in sweat pants.

Technically, LARP is an acronym for "Live Action Role Play"

I shouldn't have assumed that this crappy vocabulary would be understood the same everywhere, my bad.

What I mean by larper is someone who is more interested in looking like or pretending to be something for either fun or gain than anything else (partaking in a practice/political position solely for the themes of it), which in some cases can be a gear geek but not necessarily.

I wouldn't accuse any of you helpful fellas of being larpers.

 

[Newbie2020]

I’d rather look the part because actually being good takes too much time and work.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

I’d rather look the part because actually being good takes too much time and work.

My man! Also thank you very much for the video you linked.

 

[Rocketmandb]

I shouldn't have assumed that this crappy vocabulary would be understood the same everywhere, my bad.

What I mean by larper is someone who is more interested in looking like or pretending to be something for either fun or gain than anything else (partaking in a practice/political position solely for the themes of it), which in some cases can be a gear geek but not necessarily.

I wouldn't accuse any of you helpful fellas of being larpers.

Yeah, no offense taken... well at least on the larper part There a lot of those folks out there.

 

[HoneyPigeon]

Yeah, no offense taken... well at least on the larper part There a lot of those folks out there.

I don't consider boomer to be an insult, but if it is, I take it right back.

 

[theLBC]

i am technically more of a zarper, since zombies may not be considered living and AARP (animated action role play) is taken.

 

[Steel head]

I do a fair amount of solo shooting, both at a private range and out in the middle of nowhere and spotting hits depends primarily on the following:

Backstop:
- Not important for hits, but for misses this is critical.
- Shooting into soft, wet ground or, worse yet, foliage is difficult to see, even with relatively larger bullets at anything beyond medium ranges (~1k)
- Dry dirt is great because the puffs that come up can be spotted way out. Depending on range and bullet/speed, it can be easier to spot misses against the right backdrop than it can to spots hits on steel.

Bullet and Range
- For bullets, the faster and heavier the better. I tend to favor weight over speed.
- The heavier/faster, the more energy and thus the higher ability to spot both hits and misses.
- As examples, on a good day with my little 6mm, I can self-spot hits on steel at maybe 1k-1200. With my 300, a mile+ is not an issue. Beyond that things can start to be an issue.
- Weather conditions obviously play a role.

Recoil Management
- If you're shooting with poor fundamentals that increase both the recoil you return into the rifle and how those forces move the rifle, then getting an appropriate sight picture after the shot is more difficult.
- The quicker you can get to an effective view after the shot, the more readily you'll be able to spot the hits and misses.
- If you're moving too much, then work on fundamentals to reduce that (soft shoulder, positioning, etc.)

Scope
- The longer range, the more glass quality matters.
- For ELR, I far prefer uncluttered reticles. Too many lines and marks make it tougher to self-spot.

Cadence
- When I'm self-spotting, I have a cadence after the shot.
- Know about how long it takes for your bullet to arrive on target, and start counting, "one, one thousand... hit"
- Knowing when to be scrutinizing for the impact allows you to be ready and focus more.

I self spot mostly and the above is spot on.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Also, @HoneyPigeon, if you're going to be shooting steel, and thus setting it up yourself, I designed a DIY steel target stand that is quick to set up and easy to transport. It's made mostly from parts you can get a local hardware store and can be set up on some pretty steep slopes. I've been putting it to the test with my 300 PRC since I put out the video below. The video is about a 24" target. I am currently waiting on a 33" target (1/4" AR500 - should arrive this week) for longer ranges that will utilize 48" legs and crossbar vs the 36" legs in the stand in the video. I also have parts for 24" legs that I'll be using for smaller targets. I'm confident in the 24" legs, we'll see how stable the 48" legs are under fire. I'm hoping it will hold up as this will be my primary target for my new 375 build.

 

[Jscb1b]

+1 on ear plugs and muffs.