Badger Ordnance Deal Level question

[drcrk0525]

I bought a Badger Ordnance dead level recently and was mounting a scope and for my curiosity I decided to check level with the level I had against the bubble level and found it was off. Does anyone else have this problem? Am I missing something? I assume the rail should be the same as the base.

 

[DairyDictator]

My money's on the machined base being correct over the cheap chinese injection molded level.

 

[_Windrider_]

My money's on the machined base being correct over the cheap chinese injection molded level.

Yes. The dead level has never ever failed. The bubble level in the base is accurate. Put that other level back in the drawer.

 

[drcrk0525]

I’ve got a couple other levels around the house. I’ll check it with them. Thanks

 

[drcrk0525]

All plastic cheap levels, but they all measure the same.

 

[DairyDictator]

Seems like an email to Badger would yield significantly more/better results than asking a bunch of rando's on the interwebs

 

[Milf Dots]

In every pic, and they were taken at different angles- the Dead level isn't centered.

 

[theLBC]

what about without the rail?

 

[drcrk0525]

Badger said to just send it in and they would check it. I’m just trying to figure out if I’m doing something wrong.

 

[drcrk0525]

the base is really close

 

[rijndael]

There's an old carpenter's adage that seem fitting here: "The man with one level knows what's level, the man with two levels is confused"

 

[Milf Dots]

Make sure the Dead's bubble is dead center in the dome.

 

[drcrk0525]

Looks right on to me

 

[Milf Dots]

Now take the rail off, and put your best level across it in both directions.

 

[drcrk0525]

Pretty close

 

[drcrk0525]

I’ll just send it in and be sure it’s good. I’ve got a bit before my runs for shows up anyway. Going on a rifle to shoot over a mile so I was double checking and prob over thinking it. Thanks for the help.

 

[Paqueo]

What really matters it’s to have the reticle, erector and centre of the barrel aligned with a plumb line. Then mount the bubble level with the bubble centred when the reticle its on the plumb line. No concerns

 

[Nik H]

Cheap plastic levels are just that. @Lowlight once had a picture he posted of 4-5 cheap plastic levels next to each other and all were different.

Get yourself a properly calibrated level from Starett tools if you want to check. I use a Spuhr or other wedge or feeler gauges to get the scope flat to the Badger rail and then check with a plumb afterwards. I have used my badger for 3 years now without fail.

 

[FuhQ]

My Dead Level is the same way. I bought it like 10 years ago, and I haven’t used it in years because of that issue. Now I use the really nice metal (and magnetic) Fix-It-Sticks levels that go on my picatinny scope rail and scope cap, and are machined perfectly to ensure concentricity. Level the rifle on both axises first, then level the scope in the rings making sure the 2 levels match (even if they’re not perfectly plumb to the earth) while torquing my ARC rings, and my scopes come out more level than my Dead Level ever did… And the fix it sticks levels are only $55…. Sometimes I do them sitting on my reloading bench with a spare picatinny rail I have sitting around, before I put them on the rifle.

 

[Badgerord]

HI All,

If you have an issue with a Badger Ordnance product, contact us! We will make it right.

We have made thousands of these and I only know of 3 that had issues.

Give me call, I will make it right.

Marty

 

[FuhQ]

HI All,

If you have an issue with a Badger Ordnance product, contact us! We will make it right.

We have made thousands of these and I only know of 3 that had issues.

Give me call, I will make it right.

Marty

Do yall make any 1913 blocks that mount to the top of the DL (or in place of the original) that are shorter than the original full-length rail? A lot of newer scopes have a very short tube, and I use low rings, so there’s no way I can use my DL because the long pic rail hits the objective and magnification rings…I have several scopes that might only have 4-5” from the back of the rear ring, to the front of the front ring… I’ll measure when I get home for exact lengths so I don’t say too long. Or, if y’all would be willing to make one, I’d buy it, so I can use my DL again…

 

[_Windrider_]

Do yall make any 1913 blocks that mount to the top of the DL (or in place of the original) that are shorter than the original full-length rail? A lot of newer scopes have a very short tube, and I use low rings, so there’s no way I can use my DL because the long pic rail hits the objective and magnification rings…I have several scopes that might only have 4-5” from the back of the rear ring, to the front of the front ring… I’ll measure when I get home for exact lengths so I don’t say too long. Or, if y’all would be willing to make one, I’d buy it, so I can use my DL again…

You could always flip the scop around and hang the objective off the back?

 

[FuhQ]

You could always flip the scop around and hang the objective off the back?

Still too long... Scopes are hitting on both ends...

 

[FuhQ]

View attachment 8153627View attachment 8153628View attachment 8153629
All plastic cheap levels, but they all measure the same.

Mine is the same way, which is one of the other reasons I stopped using it. They even sent me a new bubble, but the problem persisted. I think my pic rail was machined crooked, too.

 

[_Windrider_]

Mine is the same way, which is one of the other reasons I stopped using it. They even sent me a new bubble, but the problem persisted. I think my pic rail was machined crooked, too.

Man mine has been flawless for years. Love this thing. But look at the SAC tool. It’s rail section is much smaller

 

[B y r o n]

Just out of curiosity, have you tried to check level using one of the bubble/level apps on your phone? If so what were the results?

 

[drcrk0525]

I just tried it. It shows it level. In all fairness I have sent Badger a email and they advised they would check it out and fix it. I’ve just never sent it in.