Gunsmithing Barrel Re-Break in?

minsane

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Minuteman
Mar 29, 2009
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Hello Everyone:

I'm sorry if I posted in the wrong forum, but I thought that this forum was the most appropriate. I have a .308 chrome moly LAR-8 that I have about 700 rounds thru. Unfortunately, I did not break in the barrel. By contrast I also have a .223 stainless Krieger barrel that I did break in properly. I went shooting yesterday and shoot about 45 rounds of .308 thru the chrome moly and 60 rounds through the stainless. As I was cleaning the barrels the chrome moly had bad copper fouling whereas the stainless had no copper fouling. I did a thorough de coppering with sweets on the chrome moly barrel before I went shooting.

Is there a way that I can re break in the chrome moly barrel? Does a chrome moly barrel naturally foul more? A gunsmith that I spoke to said to get all the copper that I could out of the barrel and and do a break in again. I just don't know If that is correct.

Thank you!
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!!
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Sorry...
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

fer crissakes, the term "break-in" is not even all that meaningful, but your barrel -- with SEVEN HUNDRED ROUNDS through it -- is definitely broken-in.

Let's re-set expectations, based on reality. The LAR barrel is a mass-produced tomato stake with a rifled hole through it. Its main function is to put bullets on target in a battlefield context. So what if it gets fouled. Clean it. And if you don't clean it, I bet it shoots the same anyway. So it doesn't matter.

Back to "break-in". Let's say you have a race engine built for your bitchin' restored muscle car. When the engine is new, it likely will benefit from a "break-in" period to enable the fresh surfaces (pistons/cylinders, for example) to get acquainted with each other. For things to become smoother, more efficient. Once that period is over, there is no going back to it, unless you rebuild the engine.

Ditto the barrel, except you don't rebuild a barrel. You replace it.
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

I don't know of any re-break-in method: Barrels break-in as you use them. Take comfort that your .308 won't foul itself into becoming a 7mm if you don't clean it.
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Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

I always liked Gale McMillan's ideas:

From: Gale McMillan <" gale"@mcmfamily.com>
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Barrel break-in necessary?
Date: 7 Jan 1997 20:40:25 -0500

Mike Sumner wrote:
> ...

As a barrel maker I have looked in thousands of new and used barrels
with a bore scope and I will tell you that if every one followed the
prescribed break in method A very large number would do more harm than
help. The reason you hear of the help in accuracy is because if you
chamber barrel with a reamer that has a dull throater instead of cutting
clean sharp rifling it smears a burr up on the down wind side of the
rifling. It takes from 1 to 2 hundred rounds to burn this bur out and
the rifle to settle down and shoot its best. Any one who chambers rifle
barrels has tolerances on how dull to let the reamer get and factories
let them go longer than any competent smithe would. Another tidbit to
consider, Take a 300Win Mag. that has a life expectancy of 1000 rounds.
Use 10% of it up with your break in procedure for ever 10 barrels the
barrel maker makes he has to make one more just to take care of the
break in. no wonder barrel makers like to see this. Now when you flame
me on this please include what you think is happening to the inside of
your barrel during the break in that is helping you.

Gale McMillan
NBSRA IBS,FCSA and NRA Life Member



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From: Gale McMillan <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Good barrels for Rem 700 in .308?
Date: 10 Feb 1996 12:50:53 -0500

Consider this, every round shot in breaking in a barrel is one round off
the life of said rifle barrel. No one has ever told me the physical
reason of what happens during break in firing. In other words to the
number of pounds of powder shot at any given pressure, is the life of the
barrel. No one has ever explained what is being accomplished by
shooting and cleaning in any prescribed method. Start your barrel off
with 5 rounds and clean it thoroughly and do it again. Nev Maden a
friend down under that my brother taught to make barrels was the one who
come up with the break in method. He may think he has come upon
something, or he has come up with another way to sell barrels. I feel
that the first shot out of a barrel is its best and every one after that
deteriorates until the barrel is gone. If some one can explain what
physically takes place during break in to modify the barrel then I may
change my mind. As the physical properties of a barrel doesn't change
because of the break in procedures it means it's all hog wash. I am open
to any suggestions that can be documented otherwise if it is just
someone's opinion forget it.

Gale McMillan


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From: Gale McMillan <" gale"@mcmfamily.com>
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Remington 700 break in
Date: 8 Aug 1997 00:01:07 -0400

Arthur Sprague wrote:

# On 29 Jul 1997 22:50:26 -0400, [email protected] (John W. Engel)
# wrote:
#
# #This is how (some) benchrester break in barrels, and it does work.
# #The mechanism is that the bore has pores in it (microns in size).
# #If you simply shoot a box or two through it without cleaning, the
# #pores fill up with gilding metal, and stay that way. If you
# #follow the above procedure (and they mean *clean* between shots!),
# #the pores are "smoothed over" with each successive shot. A barrel
# #correctly broken in is MUCH easier to clean than one that is
# #not. If it is a good quality tube, it will also be more accurate.
# #Regards,
# #whit
#
# Well, the range hours here are quite limited. On my first trip I
# managed to fire a whole fourteen rounds, with a thorough cleaning
# after each round. It couldn't hurt! Fun gun! Difficult to think of
# .223 as a battle round after experience with .30-06 and .45ACP, but it
# surely going to be a pleasure to shoot.
# Thanks to all for their advice.

This is total hogwash! It all got started when a barrel maker that I
know started putting break in instructions in the box with each barrel
he shipped a few years ago. I asked him how he figured it would help
and his reply was If they shoot 100 rounds breaking in this barrel
that's total life is 3000 rounds and I make 1000 barrels a year just
figure how many more barrels I will get to make. He had a point it
defiantly will shorten the barrel life. I have been a barrel maker a
fair amount of time and my barrels have set and reset bench rest world
records so many times I quit keeping track (at one time they held 7 at
one time) along with HighPower,Silloett,smallbore national and world
records and my instructions were to clean as often as posable preferably
every 10 rounds. I inspect every barrel taken off and every new barrel
before it is shipped with a bore scope and I will tell you all that I
see far more barrels ruined by cleaning rods than I see worn out from
normal wear and tear.I am even reading about people recommending
breaking in pistols. As if it will help their shooting ability or the
guns.
Gale Mc.


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Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

Wow that's cold. Where did you learn? How did you learn. I bet from other people. You certainly learned bad manners and poor etiquette in your early childhood.

Be nice we all have to learn from some where and maybe benefit others in the process.
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cozmacozmy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sometimes wonder to myself if people thinking this should be even allowed to shoot guns...
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Coz,

Sorry but there are alot of mis-informed people out there getting many lines of bullshit when it comes to the gun world. Break in is indead a fruitless deed when dealing with custom hand lapped barrels. The burs that cause the throat problems can be fix simply by finishing the chamber by hand.

Factory barrels will tend to copper up due to the lack of lapping. The rough finish or lines in a barrel will cause the coppering not the throat of a barrel which the only part that will need "broken in" due to a poor chambering job. Get a few things right your shooting becomes much easier.
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

I realize that NAG, but if you don't have the common sense to know that re-breaking in the barrel is BS do you think they know what they are doing behind that trigger???

As for how I learned minsane. I listened to people that know, I studied, I did the work until it didn't work, then figured out why it didn't work.
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

There has arrived a tidal wave of don't clean/don't break-in a new barrel sentiment on this site, and I have become leery of swimming into that riptide.

Some years back, I had suggested a simple regimen of shoot one, clean one for the first five rounds, then clean after each of the next five 3rd strings. Done in twenty, and for a small time/effort investment, the initial shooting sequence accomplishes something. Maybe it's not much, but it's something. At least it gets the copper out during the sequence where the most fouling the barrel will ever see is taking place.

For a factory barrel, I've seen copper fouling become markedly reduced vis-a-vis the start and end of the process. Admittedly, maybe little is happening that wouldn't be happening anyway, but I like to think at least it's being done in a controlled manner.

For a custom barrel, with an improved bore finish, I doubt a break-in accomplishes anything beneficial. Mainly because the finishing process accomplishes pretty much the same thing as a break-in. Honestly, after the first seven rounds, I was unable to detect <span style="font-style: italic">any</span> copper fouling in my custom L-W barrel. IMHO, breaking in such a barrel is a complete waste of time, and anyone thinking of using any abrasive in such a barrel needs to wear the dunce cap for awhile.

Sufficeth to say, break-in has fallen from current favor for reasons that may or may not be valid. I won't buck that tide, and suggest that no real harm comes from omitting the process.

Greg
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

Now, then, as for re-breaking-in several rounds down the tube, I wouldn't.

But when cleaning omission nigh on inevitibly creates nearly diamond hard fouling deposits, accuracy can be very difficult to regain, and maybe some abrasive measures may be called for, if only in a factory barrel. There can come a time when fouling deposits simply laugh at the more conventional cleaning techniques. But that's not a break-in, it's major bore overhaul.

I would never attempt such a technique unless I had hard evidence derived from actual borescoping that conventional cleaning had failed to remove a stubborn fouling deposit. In essence, it's a matter of taking extraordinary measures when conventional measures have failed to revive the patient, so there's not much left to lose anyway. FYI, this is a very rare instance.

I.e., make sure it's broke before attempting to fix it.

Also, before we become overly critical of each other, let us consider that not all truths are exclusive of all others.

Greg
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

Ok there is one thing that might help you. Lets say its the throat that causing your problems.... take a smaller brush then you put a patch on it and use a 400 grit lapping compound for 5 short strokes in your throat. Then follow that patch with another fresh one with 800 grit on it. Then apply jb for another 5 follow by issoi. To finish it off i use alot of kroil until the bore is clean of the compounds used in the process. Try using kroil after each time you clean it and see what happens.
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

Hey Guys:

Thanks for the info. The .308 factory barrel does about 1.5 inches at 100. The .223 does 1/2 inch at 100. I followed the break in proceedure that Krieger had on his website of 5 one shots, 1 3 shot and 1 5 shot. I just was not sure of what the gun smith was saying. It did not make much sense. Thanks for clearing things up.

 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

" It takes from 1 to 2 hundred rounds to burn this bur out and
the rifle to settle down and shoot its best "

so if a hunter that does not reload buys a new weatherby and has to fire it say 150 times to get it to settle down he will spend
$500-600 couldn't you buy a better than factory barrel for that ?
I am not an expert on this subject just a thought
 
Re: Barrel Re-Break in?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: minsane</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I did a thorough de coppering with sweets on the chrome moly barrel before I went shooting.

A gunsmith that I spoke to said to get all the copper that I could out of the barrel and and do a break in again. I just don't know If that is correct. </div></div>

Here is what I know, my 700SPS 308 took around 300 rounds to smooth out the bore. Of course I got better with more round count. I did very little cleaning, no more than 2 patches of Butches. Round count 300 to 500 were superb tight groups down to .346 my best with absolutely no cleaning. Then I did a thorough cleaning with nylon brush and wet patches of Butches till I got no blue. Next time out my groups opened up till around 25 or so, around 50 they got back tight and I am on round 200. Stick sat for over 6 weeks, no cleaning no oil in the bore just an exterior wipe down, went out 2 days ago and shot only one group at 100 and she still printed sub .5moa so I will keep the stick dirty.

As far as hand lapped high speed tube, have no idea but my chrome moly shoots better dirty.