Re: Barrel timing questions
Ugh.
Facts:
First one needs to look at how barrels are made. a piece of stock is supported between two bearing cassettes. The stock is rotated at a reasonably high rpm and a long stick equipped with a carbide drill point is crammed in from one side. Oil is driven through this stick to evacuate chips and to help the drill stay straight. (think party favor that you blow into)
Center is center and so long as the drill is ground to the correct geometry it creates a remarkably straight hole. Crazy straight in fact. However few barrel blanks are supported in the middle and this allows for a small percentage of "jump rope" as it rotates. The drill however doesn't care because its cutting along the spindle center.
Everything is bad azz till you turn the machine off. Now the OD of the stock snaps straight again and the hole has a banana in it.
Make sense?
As for timing. The main purpose behind this has little to do with cold bore zeros. It comes into play when a rifle gets to stretch its legs a bit. A barrel with a wiggle in it that isn't clocked in a vertical plane tends to demand a windage correction as distance from shooter/target increases. Clocking to a vertical plane helps mitigate this. It almost surely monkeys with the elevation value a bit but its of no consequence as you need to crank in elevation as you go further out anyway. Your dope masks the "problem" (which doesn't even really exist)
The timing should ALWAYS be with the muzzle "up". Never down. This goes double for bag guns as it encourages the rifle to track a little better. It's caliber sensitive mind you so filter some of what I'm telling you here. A 338 boomer Lapua isn't going to benefit from this nearly the way a dedicated NBRSA gun will chambered in 6ppc shooting 60 grain bullets. The magnum has so much steam your not really going to mitigate the stock acting like a "mosh pit" as it absorbs recoil anyway.
The "supah swag" method that I use to find the TDC (top dead center) position on a barrel's muzzle is to chuck the cylinder portion of the bore in a 3 jaw chuck. I rotate the barrel at low rpm with the crown unsupported. Using a sharpie marker I slowly approach the crown till it makes a mark.
Split the mark in half and you have your "up" clock position. Setup and thread accordingly.
Here's a tip:
Most actions are using either 16 or 18 pitch threads. 16='s .0625/rev. 18="s .0556/rev.
So, say your using a three jaw chuck. Take .0625 and divide by 3. You get .0208 per 120* of index. (cuzz the 3 jaw is a circle split 3 ways right?) rIgHt!!
So, you index your "high" on the barrel with one of these jaws. Just pick one and mark it so you don't forget which one.
Now you thread your tennon and your off a poop load. Say it's one jaw plus a red one short of where you want it.
What to do? Guess? Well that's certainly an option but it sucks. Do some math and it'll go much smoother.
Rotate your receiver(with lug) back to where the base holes time up with the center of the closest jaw. Now measure the gap created with feeler gauges. lets say it's .006".
Your one jaw off plus .006" from being straight up right? We know the pitch between jaws is .0208" so guess what you do next?
You add .006" to .0208" (.0268")
That's how much you peel off the shoulder to get it timed up. You'll need to take off the same amount from the breech face too.
BUT were forgetting something. CRUSH. My threads are perty dern good when I fit a barrel. I'll go so far to say they are bad ass. That being said things still "give" a bit when clamming everything up tight. I try to allow for about .002" of crush. Meaning I'll intentionally stay short about .002" from the mathematical dimension. If it's a fluted barrel I'll keep it even more conservative as they often time up once I install/uninstall the barrel a few times.
Doing it this way takes the guess work out and saves time.
Hope it helps.
C.