Gunsmithing Barrel Vise

Quick Karl

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Minuteman
May 28, 2010
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I wanted a barrel vise and wasn't too happy with the prices of the vises I was able to find online so I drew one up in Solidworks. Estimated material cost is less than $50 and a local machinist will mill the slots and v-ways for cheap so I will have a 10-times sturdier vise that will hold anything from .600" diameter to 1.250"+ diameter for less than the cost of one probably made in China...

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Re: Barrel Vise

Pretty neat. If you're not going to be doing barrel changes on a regular basis, you might consider designing the base to be placed into a vise.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

I would recommend making the v block area out of aluminum or risk deformation of the work piece from the flat area.

I would also opt for two larger pinch bolts vs the four smaller ones.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DebosDave</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I actually like the 4 bolts in this instance, because it might allow the jaws to conform to a taper a little bit easier than a 2 bolt setup might.</div></div>

Bingo!

All made from Aluminum and you would have to be King Kong to upset a steel barrel with an aluminum vise.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Decoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would suggest delrin for the v blocks. </div></div>

I've never tried Delrin in a barrel vise but this is an intriguing idea...
 
Re: Barrel Vise

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There are lots of ways to make action wrenches and barrel vises. Randy Ketchum has a hydraulic jack in the barrel vise he made and mounted on his bench.

I prefer to make the wrenches and vises from 2"x 2" steel that I get from the scrap yard.
I prefer to make the collets from 1.5" round 6061 Aluminum rod that I get in 8' lengths from J&L.

Sometimes I make the collets with a single slit all the way. Sometimes a two piece with two slits all the way. And sometimes with opposing partial slits.
I make the inside diameter of the collet with a boring bar on the lathe. Sometimes I make a taper on the inside diameter to match the taper of the barrel.

10 years ago I used rosin from Brownells. Now I am using powdered sugar, and it works better. My wife tells me corn starch would work better still, but I have not tested it.

An important part is the bench. I got a 400 pound elevating bench with 3/8" plate steel from Boeing surplus. It rolls and the wheels lock. I have broken a few 1/2-13 hardened bolts in this system, but I am converting to 7/8-14.
The action wrenches for a flat bottomed receiver will never break a bolt. It is the barrel vises that get tightened until slippage stops that break bolts. At 500 foot pounds of torque to get off old military barrels rusted on, lots of friction is needed on the barrel. I tighten the barrel vise with a 3' long socket wrench using both hands and both feet. Round bottomed receiver action wrenches look like another barrel vise, with Aluminum collet or brass shims.

The trick is getting the barrel on or off without scuffing up the bluing. I like to clean the barrel and collet interface with alcohol and then dry it and then apply the powdered sugar.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

Delrin is a heat treatable plastic that is very hard and non marring. We used it in many fixtures, tooling and probes in the past.

For close tolerance work it holds very tight tolerances and does not seem to transfer any marks.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Decoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Delrin is a heat treatable plastic that is very hard and non marring. We used it in many fixtures, tooling and probes in the past.

For close tolerance work it holds very tight tolerances and does not seem to transfer any marks. </div></div>

Delrin has a coefficient of friction ~ .25 and a compressive strength of ~ 18ksi

While Aluminum has a coefficient of friction ~ 1.2 and a compressive strength of ~ 80kpsi.


I am going to go out on limb here, and guess you are not taking off old military barrels at 500 foot pounds of torque.

There is a guy who shows up at the Puyallup gun shows that uses Delrin for the slip fit on coolant at the muzzle when he chambers by pulling on the reamer.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

Well there are 5 grades and over 30 types of Delrin so the values vary.

I was trying to give a valid material for use in normal applications for his project. No you can't use Delrin if you are planning to remove cannon barrels from a tank but for normal precision rifle work I think it would be excellent non marring solution.

I am going to build one using Delrin (brown)for the V-Block (not the whole vise) and will let everone know how it goes.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Decoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am going to build one using Delrin (brown)for the V-Block (not the whole vise) and will let everone know how it goes.</div></div>

Well you might as well build 2 and send me one to test
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Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is the barrel vises that get tightened until slippage stops that break bolts. At 500 foot pounds of torque to get off old military barrels rusted on, lots of friction is needed on the barrel.</div></div>

If I had an old military barrel that took that much effort to remove I wouldn't risk cracking or twisting the receiver - I would part the barrel off then bore the stub out of the receiver with a boring bar to just less than minor thread diameter and what is left will just fall out.

Contrary to urban myth, you do <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">NOT</span></span> need to use ape-force to install a barrel.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

Work pretty good actually. Just removed a factory SPS youth .223 barrel off a remington without a hitch. Used a little drywall paper around barrel and cranked her down good and tight right up by the recoil lug.

The holes in the top part are drilled bigger which allows the top to tilt on the screws and grab a tapered barrel.
 
Re: Barrel Vise

both of those are priced great. one thing, you can also go to the local steel yard and get the stock to make these. bolts and springs are at ACE or anyother hardware store. i made one for use with wood blocks for under $10. i had some of the stuff already. but if you dont have the tools, these two seem like bargains

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Re: Barrel Vise

The only mod I would make to your vise is drilling two holes in your base, on at each end, to bolt the vise down to a bench or some other support. One of my vises is attached to a 2" square steel tubing that fits into the receiver hitch on my truck, allowing for quick barrel changes at a match if needed.

wade
 
Re: Barrel Vise

This is the one I came up with. I use the jack to save time and wear and tear on my poor old beat up body. The major benefit of this is it's extremely fast and very strong. I have to build a stronger bench for it because the top will tear off before a barrel will slip. I can even use it for Savage bolts if I have to.

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Re: Barrel Vise

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wwbrown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The only mod I would make to your vise is drilling two holes in your base, on at each end, to bolt the vise down to a bench or some other support. One of my vises is attached to a 2" square steel tubing that fits into the receiver hitch on my truck, allowing for quick barrel changes at a match if needed.

wade </div></div>

I just didn't draw the holes for bench mounting but had contemplated the option for anyone wanting to mount it semi-permanently. The Trailer hitch is a great idea for field use - have to admit I never would have thought of that.

I think I'm going to make a few vises and see if they sell - but the vise isn't for unscrewing rusted in old military barrels, it's for installing new barrels.