Best 22 solvent & Oil

[Trent A]

What is the best solvent & best oil for a 22 bolt action rifle?

What have you tried, what have you compared it to, and why do you feel what you use is better than the others?

Based on google researching it seems like a standout for solvent is Wipe Out, and for oils Slip 2000 (Gun lube vs EWL?), and Gunfighter.

What about guns that don’t get used… Are there better options for long term storage?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ruff 364]

I use Boretech products. Eliminator and C4 exclusively. Over the last 45 years I find them to clean the best with the least effort.

I do not get wrapped around the axle on lubes. Oil is oil IMO. I run mainly in the desert so I tent to run light oil due to dust.

It should be a crime to have guns that aren't used. All your toys need playtime.

 

[Trent A]

As background information, I’ve used mostly Hope’s solvent, various CLP’s, MPro 7. Can’t say I know anywhere near enough to tell any difference.

A couple of my guns get shit periodically, and most of them just sit in the safe. Hopefully the shooting will be picking up soon as I am finally approaching what I’m hoping will be the last round of going back to college. Been picking up some guns in anticipation of having more time on my hands, including pieces that range from a CZ 452 Varmint that I likely will never shoot to a Vudoo V-22 that I’ll likely shoot A LOT but want to care for well given it’s easily worth 2-3x my second most valuable gun.

I also have a few other guns that essentially never get shot: centerfire bolt guns, AR-15, semi auto shotgun, 10/22, RWS 54, a Airforce Condor. Hoping what’s best for the 22’s is fine for the rest, but if there is a significantly better option for longer term storage (shot once every few years or not at all/ever for some) I would like any suggestions on that as well.

Also, I did read NOT to use foaming cleaners on semi auto guns… but would that only apply to gas guns? Would the foaming Wipe Out be fine on the inertia driven semi auto shotgun and 10/22?

Thanks!

 

[Trent A]

I use Boretech products. Eliminator and C4 exclusively. Over the last 45 years I find them to clean the best with the least effort.

I do not get wrapped around the axle on lubes. Oil is oil IMO. I run mainly in the desert so I tent to run light oil due to dust.

It should be a crime to have guns that aren't used. All your toys need playtime.

Boretech was high on the list in several of my reads. Thought I should ask a more knowledgeable group that also isn’t sponsored by the products they list, so good to know Boretech is a winner.

I have actually sold off most my centerfire guns for lack of use. I only have one gun currently that’s unfired and intend to keep it that way: CZ 457 MTR. Also wrestling with shooting the Tikka T3x Varmint so far in 223. Hate the idea of spoiling a gun that’s been discontinued.

 

[obx22]

Over 45 years of gun care and many firearms, my choice of products has evolved to these main 4.
Left to right, there purposes are cleaner/degreaser, high pressure lube (50/50 grease and oil treatment), high speed lube.
The STP is also great for treatment of contact points in a safe which touch blued steel.
I also fog gun safes and cases with Corrosion-X for long term storage. Not pictured, I use Ballistol as a cleaner for plastics and finished wooden parts.

 

[Milo 2.5]

I'm not setting the world on fire shooting, but I use Boretech Rimfire blend. I don't shoot copper, it gets my barrels clean, and I have not had a carbon ring bad enough to need a different product.
I have 3 borescopes, from Hawkeye down to a phone model, so confirmed.
I tend to use Hornady one shot lube, even on 10/22's.

 

[grauhanen]

I'm not setting the world on fire shooting, but I use Boretech Rimfire blend. I don't shoot copper, it gets my barrels clean, and I have not had a carbon ring bad enough to need a different product.

That's a good point about using Rimfire Blend and not getting a carbon ring. It gets rid of carbon. With regular attention to the area where the carbon ring develops, Rimfire Blend does a great job. If C4 Carbon Remover is required, more frequent care may be in order.

 

[MajorD]

I use Boretech products. Eliminator and C4 exclusively. Over the last 45 years I find them to clean the best with the least effort.

I do not get wrapped around the axle on lubes. Oil is oil IMO. I run mainly in the desert so I tent to run light oil due to dust.

It should be a crime to have guns that aren't used. All your toys need playtime.

Agree get them out and shoot them. People obsess over cleaning regimens far too much. Look at the controversy ( mostly relating to centerfire ) about breaking in new barrels!
I agree for lube any oil will do. For cleaning I do a lot of basic cleaning with no solvent at all, and when I do use one it will be whatever is laying around. I keep an eye open at yard sales and such for gun related items ( which can often segue into do you have any guns you are selling?) and often buy bottles/ cans of solvent for a dollar or two and add them to my pile.
for rimfire after a match my usual program is to carefully swab out the chamber ( I made a bent stem short brush I ratchet in the chamber for this.) and about every 500 rounds run a bore snake through the bore. I am not a hyper accurate rifle shooter, but middle of the road, and it keeps things in line for me just fine.

 

[Trent A]

Ok, so the carbon ring popped an idea into my head… probably a bad idea, but an idea none the less… has anyone ever tried using Easy Off Heavy Duty, the oven cleaner? I’ve scrubbed burnt carbon in the oven tirelessly to no avail, yet a shot of that stuff will have the carbon coming off in no time! Probably way overkill though?

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Cleaning with a rimfire is much more meticulous than a centerfire. You do not want to attack the lead, so the rimfire blend is actually the worst thing to use. Just use carbon eliminiator to keep the carbon ring in check. If you have to strip out to re-season, then by all means the rimfire blend will work.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Ok, so the carbon ring popped an idea into my head… probably a bad idea, but an idea none the less… has anyone ever tried using Easy Off Heavy Duty, the oven cleaner? I’ve scrubbed burnt carbon in the oven tirelessly to no avail, yet a shot of that stuff will have the carbon coming off in no time! Probably way overkill though?

All I do to clean my vudoo is soak a bore mop in C4 and let it sit in chamber for 15 minutes. Then I scrub chamber and throat with a .22 nylon brush and maybe push a dry patch down the bore. Thats it.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Ok, so the carbon ring popped an idea into my head… probably a bad idea, but an idea none the less… has anyone ever tried using Easy Off Heavy Duty, the oven cleaner? I’ve scrubbed burnt carbon in the oven tirelessly to no avail, yet a shot of that stuff will have the carbon coming off in no time! Probably way overkill though?

Speculating here, lots of things will remove carbon, it becomes what we are willing to use. CLR works well too, and IMO, 22LR shouldn't fire crack a barrel, if it does, not to the extent a CF cartridge will. I would use it on 22LR.
Over the yrs, I have used Gunslick foam on CF barrels, like how it cleans, but IMO, it is hard to remove the product itself after cleaning.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Cleaning with a rimfire is much more meticulous than a centerfire. You do not want to attack the lead, so the rimfire blend is actually the worst thing to use. Just use carbon eliminiator to keep the carbon ring in check. If you have to strip out to re-season, then by all means the rimfire blend will work.

Is this solely your opinion?
Lots of guys clean to bare metal and win, when it counts.
If a barrel shoots lights out when new w/o lead fouling, why would it not continue to down the road?

 

[Trent A]

All I do to clean my vudoo is soak a bore mop in C4 and let it sit in chamber for 15 minutes. Then I scrub chamber and throat with a .22 nylon brush and maybe push a dry patch down the bore. Thats it.

No oil afterwards either? Does leaving the lead buildup in the barrel protect it from potential rust?

 

[Trent A]

Speculating here, lots of things will remove carbon, it becomes what we are willing to use. CLR works well too, and IMO, 22LR shouldn't fire crack a barrel, if it does, not to the extent a CF cartridge will. I would use it on 22LR.
Over the yrs, I have used Gunslick foam on CF barrels, like how it cleans, but IMO, it is hard to remove the product itself after cleaning.

I’m not familiar with the term ’Fire crack a barrel’. Does it mean something along the lines of the solvent being ignited following a cleaning and it damages the barrel? Just guessing so probably way off.

 

[padom]

I use Rimfire Blend as well. Works great for me. Few wet patches, nylons brush few strokes them patch it out

 

[Trent A]

I use Rimfire Blend as well. Works great for me. Few wet patches, nylons brush few strokes them patch it out

Do you let the Rimfire Blend sit in the barrel for a while, or just continue on with the cleaning immediately? The Wipe Out that had good reviews had a major drawback for me, and that was the need to let it soak for a couple hours before continuing on.

 

[Milo 2.5]

I’m not familiar with the term ’Fire crack a barrel’. Does it mean something along the lines of the solvent being ignited following a cleaning and it damages the barrel? Just guessing so probably way off.

Heat generated from firing CF cartridges can cause fissures in the throat area of the barrel. If we are talking 22LR, let's bypass this.
You yourself need to figure a cleaning regimen that works for you, no one else, not hard, monitor what happens each outing and figure which patterns are livable for your style shooting.
150K members here all with opinions, make your own!

 

[Milo 2.5]

Do you let the Rimfire Blend sit in the barrel for a while, or just continue on with the cleaning immediately? The Wipe Out that had good reviews had a major drawback for me, and that was the need to let it soak for a couple hours before continuing on.

Instructions on the bottle say let soak for 10 min, then get to work with a brush, lol
One would think jagging out gunk, combo of solvent and crap and starting fresh may be a plan if extremely dirty.
You wouldn't wash 800 plates in the same dishwater if cleaning up after a huge banquet.

 

[Trent A]

Instructions on the bottle say let soak for 10 min, then get to work with a brush, lol
One would think jagging out gunk, combo of solvent and crap and starting fresh may be a plan if extremely dirty.
You wouldn't wash 800 plates in the same dishwater if cleaning up after a huge banquet.

Very good point!

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

No oil afterwards either? Does leaving the lead buildup in the barrel protect it from potential rust?

Why does it need oil? Bolt guns rarely need lube.

The bore is already coated in carbon/lead. The bore is clean. Wipe down the bolt and clean the extractors out. run a rag inside the action and bottom metal. Not much to it.

Lead/Carbon buildup in the barrel is what preserves accuracy. Some guys do full clean but once its seasoned it shoots really well and consistent.

 

[padom]

Do you let the Rimfire Blend sit in the barrel for a while, or just continue on with the cleaning immediately? The Wipe Out that had good reviews had a major drawback for me, and that was the need to let it soak for a couple hours before continuing on.

I let it soak for 15-25min then put some on a nylon brush and maybe 5-10 strokes...most concentrating on the throat area. Then push another wet patch through to push out any junk. Then dry patch it out

 

[Trent A]

Heat generated from firing CF cartridges can cause fissures in the throat area of the barrel. If we are talking 22LR, let's bypass this.
You yourself need to figure a cleaning regimen that works for you, no one else, not hard, monitor what happens each outing and figure which patterns are livable for your style shooting.
150K members here all with opinions, make your own!

Ya, but the difference is my opinion on the matter isn’t worth much currently. I’m looking for opinions based on real experience!

That’s what history is all about isn’t it? Learning from others mistakes so I don’t have to repeat them myself before learning the lesson!

 

[Trent A]

Why does it need oil? Bolt guns rarely need lube.

The bore is already coated in carbon/lead. The bore is clean. Wipe down the bolt and clean the extractors out. run a rag inside the action and bottom metal. Not much to it.

Lead/Carbon buildup in the barrel is what preserves accuracy. Some guys do full clean but once its seasoned it shoots really well and consistent.

I had always oiled the bore, I guess I just assumed I was supposed to. That makes sense now why it wouldn’t be needed. Would this change if talking about a CF gun that has only been shot a handful of times and then stored? Or not shot at all? That’s the case with most my CF guns, come out to hunt, fire one round a year, go back in the safe. Most have a dozen or less shots just to get them 1-2” MOA for deer.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Ya, but the difference is my opinion on the matter isn’t worth much currently. I’m looking for opinions based on real experience!

That’s what history is all about isn’t it? Learning from others mistakes so I don’t have to repeat them myself before learning the lesson!

You did this and now your head is spinning, not fast enough to explode yet though, LOL
I get it.
Benchrest crowd cleans more than us on here.
We have mixed opinions on the subject.
Then we have the crowd that thinks cleaning a gun means you have a tiny penis, can't fucking win!

 

[MajorD]

I had always oiled the bore, I guess I just assumed I was supposed to. That makes sense now why it wouldn’t be needed. Would this change if talking about a CF gun that has only been shot a handful of times and then stored? Or not shot at all? That’s the case with most my CF guns, come out to hunt, fire one round a year, go back in the safe. Most have a dozen or less shots just to get them 1-2” MOA for deer.

The only reason to oil a bore is if you intend to store the rifle long term, and have concern about humidity. I never have, and the rule is if the bore is oily and not dried out before firing ( talking about centerfire here primarily) shooting an oily bored gun can cause a barrel bulge / ring, just like firing with a bore obstruction.
I used to live in a pretty humid climate, and never had problems not oiling a bore. Then again my guns lived in a safe with a goldenrod dehumidifier as well. These days I live in a place where humidity rarely tops 20%,so no rust issues to worry about. In the old days ( 1950’s and earlier) most 22 ammo had various trade names associated with no corrosive priming, like StayKlean and “staynless “ and would state on the ammo box label that a bore would not rust if such cartridges were used exclusively. Corrosive priming is a thing of the past in commercial ammo, so no worries.
also bear in mind there is a lot of “ institutional mythology” surrounding gun cleaning and maintenance that refuse to die. again some of us are old enough that the people that taught us about gun cleaning grew up in the days corrosive priming was standard, and back then a gun would definitely rust in short order if corrosively primed ammo was shot then the gun not cleaned for some time. This is why so many WWII era guns had barrels replaced ( not because they were “shot out”)or are found in rough shape. Also many of the old salts of the time were indoctrinated by the military to clean to a “white glove inspection” standard which is a waste of time and counterproductive in most cases. A modern gun shooting modern ammo, can be left dirty a very long time with no ill effects. My pistols for example chug right along and only get field stripped and cleaned, at most every thousand rounds or so. I can understand people being more finicky about precision rifles/ bores, but there comes a point when obsessive cleaning regimens do more for the owners psyche than the gun

 

[Trent A]

The only reason to oil a bore is if you intend to store the rifle long term, and have concern about humidity. I never have, and the rule is if the bore is oily and not dried out before firing ( talking about centerfire here primarily) shooting an oily bored gun can cause a barrel bulge / ring, just like firing with a bore obstruction.
I used to live in a pretty humid climate, and never had problems not oiling a bore. Then again my guns lived in a safe with a goldenrod dehumidifier as well. These days I live in a place where humidity rarely tops 20%,so no rust issues to worry about. In the old days ( 1950’s and earlier) most 22 ammo had various trade names associated with no corrosive priming, like StayKlean and “staynless “ and would state on the ammo box label that a bore would not rust if such cartridges were used exclusively. Corrosive priming is a thing of the past in commercial ammo, so no worries.
also bear in mind there is a lot of “ institutional mythology” surrounding gun cleaning and maintenance that refuse to die. again some of us are old enough that the people that taught us about gun cleaning grew up in the days corrosive priming was standard, and back then a gun would definitely rust in short order if corrosively primed ammo was shot then the gun not cleaned for some time. This is why so many WWII era guns had barrels replaced ( not because they were “shot out”)or are found in rough shape. Also many of the old salts of the time were indoctrinated by the military to clean to a “white glove inspection” standard which is a waste of time and counterproductive in most cases. A modern gun shooting modern ammo, can be left dirty a very long time with no ill effects. My pistols for example chug right along and only get field stripped and cleaned, at most every thousand rounds or so. I can understand people being more finicky about precision rifles/ bores, but there comes a point when obsessive cleaning regimens do more for the owners psyche than the gun

I suppose it is a good thing I do oil the bore then, at least for now, as my guns have seen little action while being back in school, again, the last 2.5 years. That said I think humidity runs about 50-60% around here. Hadn’t paid much attention to it until about 6 months ago when I found rust around the extractor of a cheaper unused 22. Hadn’t ever had rust on a gun before, and sure did cringe to see that for the first time. Added 6 lbs worth of containers of desiccant and a monitor in the safe. Keeps it pretty tight to 31% now between that and sealing the safe door up with weather stripping.

Good to know about the centerfire and oil in the barrel! I’ll definitely make sure to clean it out before use if I do oil up the bore now!

Thank you for all the information!

 

[beetroot]

I use boretec C4 for removing carbon, then CLP breakdown for everything else seems to work well.

If something is caked in carbon and needs a soak I'll use kerosene (as its cheap/free) seems to be the best way for cleaning muzzlebrakes, 22 suppressors etc.

 

[Trent A]

I use boretec C4 for removing carbon, then CLP breakdown for everything else seems to work well.

If something is caked in carbon and needs a soak I'll use kerosene (as its cheap/free) seems to be the best way for cleaning muzzlebrakes, 22 suppressors etc.

That’s super helpful, especially since I’m currently waiting on a DeadAir Mask and was wondering what the best way would be to go about cleaning it when the time comes. Currently don’t own any suppressors so just starting the learning process on that. Thanks!

 

[JohnTheFisherman]

I read somewhere that you can keep your rifle consistently clean but you can’t keep it consistently dirty, made sense to me so I went with it. I clean my barrel after every outing or if I don’t shoot much in a particular outing then I’ll let it go for another but that’s about it.
I run a patch or two of c4 down the barrel and leave a chamber mop wet with c4 in the chamber for 15-30 minutes then dry patch it out. No brushing necessary. I always check it with a borescope to make sure I get it all out. Occasionally I’ll have to run another wet patch and let it sit another 15 minutes, but not very often. I’ve found that running a dry patch at the range when I’m done shooting helps a ton.

 

[Trent A]

I read somewhere that you can keep your rifle consistently clean but you can’t keep it consistently dirty, made sense to me so I went with it. I clean my barrel after every outing or if I don’t shoot much in a particular outing then I’ll let it go for another but that’s about it.
I run a patch or two of c4 down the barrel and leave a chamber mop wet with c4 in the chamber for 15-30 minutes then dry patch it out. No brushing necessary. I always check it with a borescope to make sure I get it all out. Occasionally I’ll have to run another wet patch and let it sit another 15 minutes, but not very often. I’ve found that running a dry patch at the range when I’m done shooting helps a ton.

That’s great info, thank you! I’ll have to start doing that with a patch at the range. Don’t have a bore scope but am looking into getting one. Thanks!

 

[308pirate]

As background information, I’ve used mostly Hope’s solvent, various CLP’s, MPro 7. Can’t say I know anywhere near enough to tell any difference.

A couple of my guns get shit periodically, and most of them just sit in the safe. Hopefully the shooting will be picking up soon as I am finally approaching what I’m hoping will be the last round of going back to college. Been picking up some guns in anticipation of having more time on my hands, including pieces that range from a CZ 452 Varmint that I likely will never shoot to a Vudoo V-22 that I’ll likely shoot A LOT but want to care for well given it’s easily worth 2-3x my second most valuable gun.

I also have a few other guns that essentially never get shot: centerfire bolt guns, AR-15, semi auto shotgun, 10/22, RWS 54, a Airforce Condor. Hoping what’s best for the 22’s is fine for the rest, but if there is a significantly better option for longer term storage (shot once every few years or not at all/ever for some) I would like any suggestions on that as well.

Also, I did read NOT to use foaming cleaners on semi auto guns… but would that only apply to gas guns? Would the foaming Wipe Out be fine on the inertia driven semi auto shotgun and 10/22?

Thanks!

You need to stop overthinking this

 

[Trent A]

You need to stop overthinking this

Can I ask, why is it you feel that way? Is it bad to want to take the best care of my guns as possible? The process is the same regardless of product, is it not? Just trying to work smarter not harder by using the best products and since I don’t know a lot about it, thought I would ask those more knowledgeable than myself.

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

I use a 50/50 blend of Kroil oil and original Hoppes 9 with a bronze brush. each rifle barrel has its own brush and used for about 6 cleaning sessions or until they feel loose then a new one is used. after the final dry VFG pellet I run a pellet with Microlon before they get put in the safe been doing this for last 10 years. my results make me hesitant to try anything else.

Lee

 

[308pirate]

Can I ask, why is it you feel that way? Is it bad to want to take the best care of my guns as possible? The process is the same regardless of product, is it not? Just trying to work smarter not harder by using the best products and since I don’t know a lot about it, thought I would ask those more knowledgeable than myself.

Because in my experience 99% of this cleaning and oiling product angst makes zero difference to the results.

 

[Trent A]

I use a 50/50 blend of Kroil oil and original Hoppes 9 with a bronze brush. each rifle barrel has its own brush and used for about 6 cleaning sessions or until they feel loose then a new one is used. after the final dry VFG pellet I run a pellet with Microlon before they get put in the safe been doing this for last 10 years. my results make me hesitant to try anything else.

Lee

Not familiar with what a VFG pellet is, nor Microlon, I’ll have to look those up. Thanks!

 

[Trent A]

Because in my experience 99% of this cleaning and oiling product angst makes zero difference to the results.

Thank you for clarifying. It does seem like a lot of it is just whatever an individual may want to use, and 6 of 1 half dozen of the other.

 

[littlesister]

Because in my experience 99% of this cleaning and oiling product angst makes zero difference to the results.

Respectfully disagree with your take on barrel cleaning. A quality remfire barrel shooting lubed bullets will hardly ever lead up. Easily cleaned with most any barrel cleaning solvents. The carbon ring buildup is not so simple. Many solvents such a Hoppes have very little effect on removing carbon and you can clean until heck freezes over and the carbon ring will continue to build up and that will make a difference in results/accuracy.

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

Not familiar with what a VFG pellet is, nor Microlon, I’ll have to look those up. Thanks!

VFG are felt pellets that screw onto a special jag you can get them from Champions Choice. Micolon is a wet applied dry lube better known as Gun juice.

Lee

 

[Hi-NV Shooter]

Lee I've gone to the vfg pellets for most of my cleaning these days. I feel they keep the rod centered in the bore a little better than just patches. They seem to fit in the rifling better as well, just my opinion on them. They make using c4 in the chamber easy as well, put 2 on the jag and letem sit for 30 mins give or take. Hope all is well your way Lee. Sam

Sam, I been using them for the last 8-9 years now. I like them because I can adjust how tight I can run them down the barrel.
I been well hoping the same for you. heading to AZ this Saturday for my first ARA of 2023.

Lee

 

[308pirate]

Respectfully disagree with your take on barrel cleaning. A quality remfire barrel shooting lubed bullets will hardly ever lead up. Easily cleaned with most any barrel cleaning solvents. The carbon ring buildup is not so simple. Many solvents such a Hoppes have very little effect on removing carbon and you can clean until heck freezes over and the carbon ring will continue to build up and that will make a difference in results/accuracy.

 

[Shoots 700's]

So many opinions. I have found that leaving the bore"seasoned" works for me. I run a couple wet patches with kroil down the bore to push the junk out following a dry patch and wiped the rest down.

Every 500 pounds or so rimfire blend in the chamber area and follow up with krill

When I detail clean after a season I use rimfire blend to clean and then shoot to preseason the barrel.