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Best bolt coating

Andrew863

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 21, 2018
563
216
37
Russellville KY
I have a Zermatt origin, the action is perfect and buttery smooth. I'm at 2200rds and the coating on the bolt has a good amount of wear. Zermatt said I could cerakote it but it wouldn't be as smooth. Anyone have have any first hand experience with a coating? I see alot if guys that can't run 12rds in a mag or has to push the first round in with the back of the bolt, I don't want to have to do that.
 
I have a Zermatt origin, the action is perfect and buttery smooth. I'm at 2200rds and the coating on the bolt has a good amount of wear. Zermatt said I could cerakote it but it wouldn't be as smooth. Anyone have have any first hand experience with a coating? I see alot if guys that can't run 12rds in a mag or has to push the first round in with the back of the bolt, I don't want to have to do that.
Don't Cerakote it. BTDTGTTS.

Did Zermatt say whether or not you could send it back to them to be re-DLC'd ? If yes, that would be what I'd do.
 
I have a Zermatt origin, the action is perfect and buttery smooth. I'm at 2200rds and the coating on the bolt has a good amount of wear. Zermatt said I could cerakote it but it wouldn't be as smooth. Anyone have have any first hand experience with a coating? I see alot if guys that can't run 12rds in a mag or has to push the first round in with the back of the bolt, I don't want to have to do that.
DLC.
Actual, for real, legit DLC from someone that does it a bunch.

IonBond TB-40 process would be my preference. I am getting phenomenal performance from it.
 
DLC.
Actual, for real, legit DLC from someone that does it a bunch.

IonBond TB-40 process would be my preference. I am getting phenomenal performance from it.
Terry, do you know what the process is for "re-DLC'ing" ? Can it be done right over the original DLC, or does the part somehow have to be stripped prior to re-DLC'ing ?

I have a number of Bighorn Actions and I'm delighted with everything about them, including the DLC.

Oh, and my guess is that Bighorn doesn't want to tie up their resources handling bolts that they just send out to their finisher anyway. Can't really blame them.
 
Terry, do you know what the process is for "re-DLC'ing" ? Can it be done right over the original DLC, or does the part somehow have to be stripped prior to re-DLC'ing ?
I am for sure NOT an SME on coating but I do not think it would be a re-coat over the original.

Even though DLC/IonBond is completely different from CeraKote, both rely on a completely clean surface to correctly anchor.
DLC works best on new material surface so some type of strip/prep would be in order for an already DLC'd part to be processed again.

Coupled with the fact that there are different applicators, different chemistries and such being used by each vendor I would certainly want to start from scratch anyway if it were me.

I would hazard to guess that IonBond and others would offer a strip and prep as part of their menu of services.

I have a number of Bighorn Actions and I'm delighted with everything about them, including the DLC.

Oh, and my guess is that Bighorn doesn't want to tie up their resources handling bolts that they just send out to their finisher anyway. Can't really blame them.
An email to Zermatt CS wouldn't cost a thing and the worst thing they could do is say No.
 
Possibly email IHI IonBond and ask for a list of firearm related client partners. They should be able to assist.
If you can find somebody that is already doing regular business with them, that would be the ticket.
Just looked at their website and they list the locations of their service centers...quite a few of them.

 
I have a Zermatt origin, the action is perfect and buttery smooth. I'm at 2200rds and the coating on the bolt has a good amount of wear. Zermatt said I could cerakote it but it wouldn't be as smooth. Anyone have have any first hand experience with a coating? I see alot if guys that can't run 12rds in a mag or has to push the first round in with the back of the bolt, I don't want to have to do that.
Only the bolt head of the Origin is DLC. The bolt body and receiver is nitrided. Only thing you’ve worn off is the surface oxide, the hardened steel surface remains. Your action is working fine, dont fuck it up.
 
Only the bolt head of the Origin is DLC. The bolt body and receiver is nitrided. Only thing you’ve worn off is the surface oxide, the hardened steel surface remains. Your action is working fine, dont fuck it up.
What is the reason for saying leave it alone? Do you not think that another coating would be able to be as smooth? It is absolute butter, and I want it slick more then I want it pretty. I am mainly asking if there is a option to achieve both.
 
I have a Zermatt origin, the action is perfect and buttery smooth. I'm at 2200rds and the coating on the bolt has a good amount of wear. Zermatt said I could cerakote it but it wouldn't be as smooth. Anyone have have any first hand experience with a coating? I see alot if guys that can't run 12rds in a mag or has to push the first round in with the back of the bolt, I don't want to have to do that.
Older origins were nitride action, dlc bolt. Believe the tl3 was inverse of that. I believe that process on the origin changed a few years back to all being DLC. I'd personally look into nitride of the bolt body, if there are no complications with the current dlc. Possibly a Chem dip or sandblast can simply remove the dlc prior to nitride. Dlc isn't as durable in my sample use VS nitride coated actions.
 
What is the reason for saying leave it alone? Do you not think that another coating would be able to be as smooth? It is absolute butter, and I want it slick more then I want it pretty. I am mainly asking if there is a option to achieve both.
You keep saying how buttery it is, and that buttery is your goal. Just shoot it. No, i dont think you will be able to improve it. 2200 rds is nothing, and it will likely continue to get better if you take care of it.
 
Older origins were nitride action, dlc bolt. Believe the tl3 was inverse of that. I believe that process on the origin changed a few years back to all being DLC. I'd personally look into nitride of the bolt body, if there are no complications with the current dlc. Possibly a Chem dip or sandblast can simply remove the dlc prior to nitride. Dlc isn't as durable in my sample use VS nitride coated actions.
I'm pretty sure mine is a DLC action and bolt head and the bolt body is nitride.
 
I personally really like Nitride treatment on bolts and carriers.
The two kelbly actions I use are nitride treated and before I threaded a barrel on either I sprayed both bolts with CRC Moly dry coat and cycled them to wear it in.
The JP LMOS carrier I have is also Nitride treated and smooth and slick as the LMT with NP3 coating I have but more durable.
 
What is the reason for saying leave it alone? Do you not think that another coating would be able to be as smooth? It is absolute butter, and I want it slick more then I want it pretty. I am mainly asking if there is a option to achieve both.
Keep in mind that "IF" the bolt has to be abrasively stripped, the abrasives will make the surface rougher, which is the opposite of what you want.

I agree with Supersubes, just leave it alone. It will get even smoother over time.
 
You keep saying how buttery it is, and that buttery is your goal. Just shoot it. No, i dont think you will be able to improve it. 2200 rds is nothing, and it will likely continue to get better if you take care of it.
That is precisely why I asked for replies from people with first hand knowledge. You never know if you don't ask. I just wanted to make sure while I had a couple months between matches.
 
What is the reason for saying leave it alone? Do you not think that another coating would be able to be as smooth? It is absolute butter, and I want it slick more then I want it pretty. I am mainly asking if there is a option to achieve both.

Is it still not smooth?

Just because the finish looks worn, doesn't mean that its no longer functioning.
 
Anyone used Cerakote Micro Slick?
I've been tempted to try it for a long time...but didn't want to risk fucking up a perfectly fine bolt by blasting it.
Keep in mind that any paint needs a rough surface in order to adhere. I made the mistake one time of glass bead blasting a part (don't remember what it was, maybe it was a bolt). Glass bead blasting produces a smooth surface, unlike Aluminum Oxide that produces a rough surface/ microscopic indentations. The paint started coming off the glass bead blasted part almost immediately. Only did that once.

The new finishes such as IonBond and DLC are really "wonder coatings". Twenty or thirty years ago, the most state of the art coating was Robar's NP3, which was teflon particles in electroless Nickel. It was a great coating, but the new(er) coatings are a lot better.
 
Keep in mind that any paint needs a rough surface in order to adhere. I made the mistake one time of glass bead blasting a part (don't remember what it was, maybe it was a bolt). Glass bead blasting produces a smooth surface, unlike Aluminum Oxide that produces a rough surface/ microscopic indentations. The paint started coming off the glass bead blasted part almost immediately. Only did that once.

The new finishes such as IonBond and DLC are really "wonder coatings". Twenty or thirty years ago, the most state of the art coating was Robar's NP3, which was teflon particles in electroless Nickel. It was a great coating, but the new(er) coatings are a lot better.
IonBond refers to one of their coating as DLC. Is there a difference?

 
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IonBond refers to one of their coating as DLC. Is there a difference?

That, I do not know......

Mr. Cross has sung the accolades of IonBond and I have had great experiences with DLC as supplied on my Bighorn TL-2's.

They could indeed be the very same thing, but I don't know that for certain.
 
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IonBond refers to one of their coating as DLC. Is there a difference?

I believe that "DLC" is sort of a generic industry term for certain high performance PVD coatings.
Sort of like if you order a Coke in Texas, they ask what kind. . . . Dr Pepper, Rootbeer, RC or CocaCola. Go figure.


IonBond has variations of their TriboBond that fall into the DLC category.

Here is a link to one of their facility upgrades. You might could read it and link laterally to other pages with more technical info.
 
I believe that "DLC" is sort of a generic industry term for certain high performance PVD coatings.
Sort of like if you order a Coke in Texas, they ask what kind. . . . Dr Pepper, Rootbeer, RC or CocaCola. Go figure.


IonBond has variations of their TriboBond that fall into the DLC category.

Here is a link to one of their facility upgrades. You might could read it and link laterally to other pages with more technical info.
Thanks, Terry.

I have an action…OG Havak…that I think I’m going to use to build a .308 eastern whitetail hunting gun. And no, it will not be carried (its def not a lightweight, mountain hunting, action). At 71 w a fused back I take a golf cart to an elevated box blind. Yes, I’m a snowflake hunter. lol

But it’s in the white.

My question is can it be nitrided without harming its tempering? I’m guessing DLC would be a better option.

Your thoughts if you have the time?

Thanks
 
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Keep in mind that any paint needs a rough surface in order to adhere. I made the mistake one time of glass bead blasting a part (don't remember what it was, maybe it was a bolt). Glass bead blasting produces a smooth surface, unlike Aluminum Oxide that produces a rough surface/ microscopic indentations. The paint started coming off the glass bead blasted part almost immediately. Only did that once.

The new finishes such as IonBond and DLC are really "wonder coatings". Twenty or thirty years ago, the most state of the art coating was Robar's NP3, which was teflon particles in electroless Nickel. It was a great coating, but the new(er) coatings are a lot better.
Yeah, I got that. I was referring to the fact that once blasted, you've got that pitted surface for life. I suppose one could sand out the pitting from blasting and polish it, but then you've got a bolt body that's at least a few thou smaller in diameter than what you started with. I usually just leave them alone, but I've been asked to coat them (H) on occasion which I'll do as long as there's enough clearance in the raceway and it's understood that it'll slicken up as the bolt's run- but also wear off over time. I was curious if anyone has feedback on the Micro Slick...
 
Just looked at their website and they list the locations of their service centers...quite a few of them.

Only the NC facility and the new site they are opening in Chicago offer firearm specialty services. The NC facility is reserved for large factory runs (Sig specifically). The NH facility was recently closed.

Ionbond wont usually take individual parts or orders so the real problem is finding someone with a business account willing to take them. Of those I know of: Evolution Armory no longer works with them, neither does ClubCustoms. Fusion Firearms is one of the few left and they take pistol work.

Ionbond makes a great product but for individuals right now there arent any real options for rifle related services.
 
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Only the NC facility and the new site they are opening in Chicago offer firearm specialty services. The NC facility is reserved for large factory runs (Sig specifically). The NH facility was recently closed.

Ionbond wont usually take individual parts or orders so the real problem is finding someone with a business account willing to take them. Of those I know of: Evolution Armory no longer works with them, neither does ClubCustoms. Fusion Firearms is one of the few left and they take pistol work.

Ionbond makes a great product but for individuals right now there arent any real options for rifle related services.
Wow, that’s disappointing.

Is there anybody else who does high qual DLC for retail that you know of?
 
Wow, that’s disappointing.

Is there anybody else who does high qual DLC for retail that you know of?
I'm still looking for myself to be honest. After calling IonBond in May, I reached out to DNA Firearm Systems. Havent decided on going with them. I want to get the real wear resistant dlc type as there are a lot of different types of pvd/dlc.
 
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