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Create a channel Learn moreThank you!Diving board has the ZCO logo on it.
While their scopes may have zero compromises, it appears you can't say the same thing for their diving board design...
While their scopes may have zero compromises, it appears you can't say the same thing for their diving board design...
But I have like 6 or 8 of these mounts.Best answer/fix for this is CC (credit card)
But I have like 6 or 8 of these mounts.
And used 36mm mounts never sell well.
#shouldaboughtier1
#zerocompromiseisalie
#crackedlensandwanderingLRF
MBA = Mr. Bitch AssI really should get an honorary MBA for this line of thinking.
You can but they are 2” tallerAlthough can’t you get replacement caps with their new (better) design? Sorry if this was covered in that other thread.
This and a visit to the Area 419 website. Recently bought a set of their rings and diving board, quite a setup.Best answer/fix for this is CC (credit card)
That's the laziest design I've seen in a while!I feel like welding will distort it. Scuff and JB Weld ?
Not sure the best way to make sure it’s perfectly aligned. Those screws don’t that’s for sure
View attachment 8525518
I appreciate the explanation.That's the laziest design I've seen in a while!
I'm a dumb MF'r but even I wouldn't do that.
FWIW, here is what I would do if you have access to a vertical mill or good drill press with a compound table.
Priority Mail small Flat Rate box is your friend.I appreciate the explanation.
But. That’s beyond my pay grade.
Once the wrench’s get below 1” things start to go to hell for me
<checks notes>Priority Mail small Flat Rate box is your friend.
My address can be found on the internet. Offer is there if you care to use it.
Send them things to Terry and let him get it straight. That's your best move.I appreciate the explanation.
But. That’s beyond my pay grade.
Once the wrench’s get below 1” things start to go to hell for me
That's the laziest design I've seen in a while!
I'm a dumb MF'r but even I wouldn't do that.
FWIW, here is what I would do if you have access to a vertical mill or good drill press with a compound table.
Remove the top half of the ring.
Screw the rail to the ring cap as usual.
Invert the assembly and mount it into a machine vise using the rail to clamp to.
The vise jaws should be parallel to the X-axis travel on the table so you know the rail is now lined up on that axis.
Mount an indicator in the spindle and indicate against a flat on the exterior side of the ring.
Tap the ring cap as needed to bring parallel to the same X-axis.
Center the Y-axis on the existing screw holes.
Use small center drill to spot two holes about 1 diameter inboard of the two screw holes.
Drill slightly undersize to roughly 0.250" or 0.375" then finish ream to 0.125" dia. to the same depth.
Blow the holes out and then tap two hardened dowel pins (example: https://www.mcmaster.com/98381A470/) into place making sure they are below flush with the interior curve of your ring cap.
Remove the two screws holding the rail to the scope ring cap, clean the male and female threads, then Red LocTite them back in place.
The result will be a properly aligned rail and a joint that shouldn't move.
Put that bitch back on your rifle, zero your WMLRF and go kill shit.
If you don't already have a proper reamer and pins, PM me you address and I will send you what you need.
If you don't have access to a machine to do it, mail them to me. Would take about 15 minutes.
ETA: I just now figured out Kiba was suggesting the same thing about the pins. The rail has a LOT of leverage on the small contact area of the ring cap. If you mounted a heavier WMLRF and ran very much recoil under it, I wouldn't trust a glued joint even with the better products. That's just my personal untrusting self opinion.