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Ok that saidI had no idea there were fake Spuhr mounts going around, and neither do I know how to spot them. Safest best is to just buy them from a reputable dealer.
Part of the reason we buy a premium scope mount for our "premium" scopes is to reduce the probability that a badly QC'ed mount that is non-concentric could damage our scopes. I don't lap my scope mounts before I mount them, I just assume that they are well made, well centered, will handle the torque values and manage the recoil without damaging my scope.
I have seen shitty mounts torquing scope tubes, imparting deep ring mark/scratches on scope tube, and even resulting in scope sliding in mounts causing scratches due to mount's inability to hold the scope during recoil.
Oh my apologies on the questions then. I thought that was your videoThat is not my youtube video. I did not make that video.
It was a video that came up on my feed and I figured folks should be made aware that there are fake spuhrs going around....
Or it might be the fakes breaking? BTW, I have two that I have had for 10 or more years that haven't broken but I also know how to use a torque wrench and follow the directions.They might be better than the original.
Because there were and are plenty of users who have done stupid stuff. Tell me I am wrong.the one I bought from euro-optic cracked - so nope. I used a torque wrench - I can't stand when people act like the clamp bar problem was users.
Because there were and are plenty of users who have done stupid stuff. Tell me I am wrong.
How many scope tubes have you seen that was messed up by someone getting overzealous with a allen or torx bit and cranked the rings down??
You might have done the right thing, followed the torque sequence and specs but how many haven't?
Just saying
I followed it to a T and always have. When I cracked my clamp mile high didn’t seem at all surprised. Mine was the updated thicker version as well.Because there were and are plenty of users who have done stupid stuff. Tell me I am wrong.
How many scope tubes have you seen that was messed up by someone getting overzealous with a allen or torx bit and cranked the rings down??
You might have done the right thing, followed the torque sequence and specs but how many haven't?
Just saying
People thinking they know how to use a torque wrench and going through clicking on each faster to make sure they're still tight every so often could be easily over torquing them and cracking them.Or it might be the fakes breaking? BTW, I have two that I have had for 10 or more years that haven't broken but I also know how to use a torque wrench and follow the directions.
Or it might be the fakes breaking?
Only problem with "Buy from a reputable dealer" is Spuhr doesn't make the SP-4002 anymore so either have to find old stock or buy used. The 4002C is gross.
I would say that both mounts in that video are the real deal and that the guy who made the video is clueless.
I have had 10+ mounts from Spuhr for the last decade, never had an issue with either one of them. If I had, I am sure they would warranty it.
Sooner or later a Spuhr rep or Spuhr himself will find this thread and set things straight.
(Let the storm begin)
They are already there, in the world of mid-tech production folding knives they have been doing amazingly well for a few years, basically impossible to tell until you test the metal/blade steel. In fact outside of the blade steel/heat treat some of the clones are better than the real things.......sadly. Now that it's pretty easy to get a 3D scanner and CNC machine, with the markup on some of these products it has to be very lucrative. I'd imagine when you are talking about $400-$600 for a machined scope mount the profit margin has to be massively higher than a $400-$600 folding knife, and if you cut material corners if it's a money maker for knives it's going to be a huge money maker for scope mounts.Its only a matter of time before the clones are as good as the real thing, or 90% close to it.