Bighorn Arms/Zermatt Arms Savage 12 Point Barrel Nut

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  • Mar 13, 2013
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    Southeastern, Pennsylvania
    For those of you that havent heard Bighorn Arms has created a Savage thread barrel nut that does not require any special tools or wrench. Big thank you to Aaron BigHorn / ZAI Team for sending me one to test/review. Just an fyi, they sent me one in the white but the ones for sale will be DLC coated. The first batch was going out to be DLC coated and will be available for purchase shortly. You can pick up the 1 1/8" wrench at your local hardware store or order one off Amazon for less than $15.00.

    I really like this barrel nut and how it looks. I can see the DLC coated ones blending in nicely with a DLC coated action. I just installed this today on a second CBI barrel that I received but I am actually going to pull it and put a SPR Mullerworks barrel on the nut for testing since I already have load data and 100pcs of brass formed to that barrel. Bighorn has their Invisi-Nut coming out as well that is perfectly round making it almost invisible. Looking forward to testing that one as well.


    The 12 Point barrel nut is designed for a rifle that uses Savage threads. It is easily put on or taken off with a standard 1-1/8" wrench. The simplicity of this wrench is perfect for anyone from a novice shooter to a master craftsman gunsmith to secure a barrel to an action. **PATENT PENDING** Production has started and these will be available soon - ZAI/Bighorn Team


    Bighorn Arms Savage 12 Point Barrel Nut



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    I like it, and I already have a wrench for it. :) Any chance of a large shank version? I have a couple LRP actions that I swap barrels on once in awhile.
     
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    Eeeh. Nope. Don't like it. I mean it looks bad. I think the stock Savage bolt looks better. I seen that Bugholes has a flat sided barrell nut. The bughole one looks real nice. But if a rifle shoots tight I couldn't give two shits what it looks like......
     
    What happened to all the pictures?! :(

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    I've had one for 6 months or more. It's an awesome nut. Way nicer then a standard savage nut. It's a slick nut.
    Deano

    Is yours DLC or just stainless? I'm thinking of getting one in DLC to match a DLC TL-3, but am kinda wondering how the DLC on the nut will hold up to installation/removal. I don't plan on removing the nut that often, but it would be a shame if the coating got all scratched up just from installing the nut one or two times.
     
    Is yours DLC or just stainless? I'm thinking of getting one in DLC to match a DLC TL-3, but am kinda wondering how the DLC on the nut will hold up to installation/removal. I don't plan on removing the nut that often, but it would be a shame if the coating got all scratched up just from installing the nut one or two times.

    Xander,
    Mine was just stainless, it's now coyote tan cerakote. It holds up very well, taking it on and off. Sand blast it and paint it. I'd imagine the DLC would hold up pretty decent.

    Deano
     
    I am thinking about going this route just not sure how you would torque this to spec with a 1 1/8" wrench and also what did Bighorn say torque lbs per inch were spec on this barrel nut? Also are you using the Bighorn action wrench with a vise that has soft jaws ? I'm just looking for the most efficient way to swap Barrels with a tl3 the videos that proof show make it really simple but I don't think they sell their barrel nut and wrenches aftermarket on their website.

    Any info helps spife7980
    Is this what you'd use?
     

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    The way I do it, is put the barrel in a standard barrel vise. Thread the action to the barrel, insert go gauge, snug barrel nut to action then use the action wrench that bighorn sells to hold the action and torque the nut on. Check your go and no go and you're good if it checks out.

    Deano
     
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    I am thinking about going this route just not sure how you would torque this to spec with a 1 1/8" wrench and also what did Bighorn say torque lbs per inch were spec on this barrel nut? Also are you using the Bighorn action wrench with a vise that has soft jaws ? I'm just looking for the most efficient way to swap Barrels with a tl3 the videos that proof show make it really simple but I don't think they sell their barrel nut and wrenches aftermarket on their website.

    Any info helps spife7980
    Is this what you'd use?

    From my understanding you want to hold the barrel in a barrel vice, and thread the action to the barrel. At this point the barrel nut should be threaded all the way on to the barrel as far as it can go. Then you want to insert a go gauge and tighten the action down onto go gauge, then snug the barrel nut up against the action hand tight. At this point you will want to use a wrench similar to what you posted, basically a 12 pt wrench with a half inch drive, and torque the nut down to the action, while you have an action wrench in the receiver holding it still. I don't have the recommended torque spec off the top of my head, but Bighorn will set you straight.

    It's my understanding that you want to torque the barrel nut to the receiver, and not the receiver to the barrel nut. After your all done torquing, just double check with the go gauge that the bolt still closes on it, and if you have a no-go gauge you should check that the bolt does not close on it.
     
    I am thinking about going this route just not sure how you would torque this to spec with a 1 1/8" wrench and also what did Bighorn say torque lbs per inch were spec on this barrel nut? Also are you using the Bighorn action wrench with a vise that has soft jaws ? I'm just looking for the most efficient way to swap Barrels with a tl3 the videos that proof show make it really simple but I don't think they sell their barrel nut and wrenches aftermarket on their website.

    Any info helps spife7980
    Is this what you'd use?

    The above went over it well enough already but since youre asking me I guess Ill throw in: Personally if I had a tl3 I would go shouldered barrels and not worry about the barrel nut.

    But yeah, that would be a fine tool to use for torquing the 12pt nut down. I would probably buy a bighorn rear entry wrench if I had a bighorn. Put the barrel in a barrel vice, I would wrap it in leather or a business card or thin piece of cardboard to protect its finish, thread the receiver all the way on and thread it out until it just closes on a go gauge. Check to see if it will close on a nogo gauge. If it does then screw it back on a bit more, if not then torque the nut down. Check it again with the gauges to make sure it closes on go and does not on no.

    With a shouldered you just torque it on and youre good to go.
     
    Guys, this isnt rocket science. I've been using the 12 point Bighorn nut since Aaron sent me a prototype before it was released. I have 4 of them now, never used a torque wrench on any of my nut installs.

    Barrel nut setups use 30-35 ft lbs of torque, not 70-75 ft lb like a shouldered barrel.

    Put your action wrench in and put a 1 1/8 wrench on the nut. Tighten it up. Go shoot. This is all you need:

     
    Guys, this isnt rocket science. I've been using the 12 point Bighorn nut since Aaron sent me a prototype before it was released. I have 4 of them now, never used a torque wrench on any of my nut installs.

    Barrel nut setups use 30-35 ft lbs of torque, not 70-75 ft lb like a shouldered barrel.

    Put your action wrench in and put a 1 1/8 wrench on the nut. Tighten it up. Go shoot. This is all you need:

    That’s what I was leaning towards. Was hoping since Bighorn didn’t offer a part for it that they would just recommend using a standard wrench and snug it up. Thanks guys.
     
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