First off the last bike I owned was in Jr. high and that was a hell of a long time ago. I would like to get a bike to ride to and from work as well as on a trail or two. I have never been mountain biking before but thought I'd try it, nothing to hard core tho. So the question is what should I look at getting. I'm on a budget and don't have a lot of coin to dump. Also not opposed to getting something used.
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Bike advise
- Thread starter redrum007
- Start date
Re: Bike advise
Bikes can be like cars in that they have new editions every year. So a nice used bike can be had at some savings.
You stated commuting and trails. A nice front suspension bike (hard tail), or hybrid would do nice. Dual suspension are fun, but unless you are riding extreme downhill, you can do without the extra expense and weight.
Next is the material, the cheaper bikes are chro moly, they are rigid and rugged, but can also be heavy. If you can get a used aluminum for the cost of chromoly, then get it.
I have an older Cannondale F5, although I dont ride as much as I used to, this bike never quit on me. Easy shifting, disc brakes and I purchased two sets of rims and tires so I can could commute and ride trails (street and offroad tires). You really dont want to ride offroad tires on pavement, it wears the tread and can slow you down.
So anything from Cannondale, Trek, Specilized, Kona should serve you well.
Lastly, you may think you know how to ride a bike, but learning about the proper fit, seat height, peddle clips can make life much easier.
Be careful with bikes, they are as addicting as rifles.
Bikes can be like cars in that they have new editions every year. So a nice used bike can be had at some savings.
You stated commuting and trails. A nice front suspension bike (hard tail), or hybrid would do nice. Dual suspension are fun, but unless you are riding extreme downhill, you can do without the extra expense and weight.
Next is the material, the cheaper bikes are chro moly, they are rigid and rugged, but can also be heavy. If you can get a used aluminum for the cost of chromoly, then get it.
I have an older Cannondale F5, although I dont ride as much as I used to, this bike never quit on me. Easy shifting, disc brakes and I purchased two sets of rims and tires so I can could commute and ride trails (street and offroad tires). You really dont want to ride offroad tires on pavement, it wears the tread and can slow you down.
So anything from Cannondale, Trek, Specilized, Kona should serve you well.
Lastly, you may think you know how to ride a bike, but learning about the proper fit, seat height, peddle clips can make life much easier.
Be careful with bikes, they are as addicting as rifles.
Re: Bike advise
Try to find an AL framed hard tail mountain bike with a decent suspended front fork. They can be found with good components at a really reasonable price. With this you will have a bike that is great for trail riding and would work for reasonable commutes with a set of slick tires.
One thing I feel that really can't be stressed enough is getting the correct sized bike and having it fitted to you. Most local bike shops will do this and offer after the sale service as well. A properly fitted bike really makes the experience much more enjoyable. If you are comfortable on the bike you will be much more likely to continue riding.
You can find really good deals on used ones as well but you need to know what you are looking for.
Good luck finding a bike. As Roggom warned, they can be as addictive as rifles - and just as expensive (if not more so)!
Try to find an AL framed hard tail mountain bike with a decent suspended front fork. They can be found with good components at a really reasonable price. With this you will have a bike that is great for trail riding and would work for reasonable commutes with a set of slick tires.
One thing I feel that really can't be stressed enough is getting the correct sized bike and having it fitted to you. Most local bike shops will do this and offer after the sale service as well. A properly fitted bike really makes the experience much more enjoyable. If you are comfortable on the bike you will be much more likely to continue riding.
You can find really good deals on used ones as well but you need to know what you are looking for.
Good luck finding a bike. As Roggom warned, they can be as addictive as rifles - and just as expensive (if not more so)!
Re: Bike advise
Personally I'll never go back to a non-dual suspension bike. It would be like driving a car with the back end welded solid. Full suspension is the way to go and as you get older you'll really appreciate it more. I'll qualify this by pointing out I ride only off road in the mountains. If the majority of your riding is on paved surfaces or flat smooth trails you probably can get by with front suspension only. It's like buying a gun, you need to know how you'll use it most of the time. Buy used or last years unsold models to save some cash. Most important is to buy a frame that fits your body size. You should probably go to a local shop and test ride a few bikes in the parking lot to see what really fits your body type. A bad fitting bike is like a pair of shoes that don't fit well...pain is involved.
Personally I'll never go back to a non-dual suspension bike. It would be like driving a car with the back end welded solid. Full suspension is the way to go and as you get older you'll really appreciate it more. I'll qualify this by pointing out I ride only off road in the mountains. If the majority of your riding is on paved surfaces or flat smooth trails you probably can get by with front suspension only. It's like buying a gun, you need to know how you'll use it most of the time. Buy used or last years unsold models to save some cash. Most important is to buy a frame that fits your body size. You should probably go to a local shop and test ride a few bikes in the parking lot to see what really fits your body type. A bad fitting bike is like a pair of shoes that don't fit well...pain is involved.
Re: Bike advise
Im in the same boat as you. I've narrowed my choices down to Trek and Specialized. I started with a $1200 budget but it's starting to climb to 1900-2500 and I'm not even sure I will end up riding it as much as I should. I just hate thinking I left something on the table for saving $300. I have decided on a hard tail with really nice features, pretty much getting all top quality items beside rear suspension and carbon fiber frame. Go ride a few, trek is having a factory demo in my town next weekend so thats when I will make my final decision, I may end up with a full suspension bike we will see. My gun fund hopes not.
Im in the same boat as you. I've narrowed my choices down to Trek and Specialized. I started with a $1200 budget but it's starting to climb to 1900-2500 and I'm not even sure I will end up riding it as much as I should. I just hate thinking I left something on the table for saving $300. I have decided on a hard tail with really nice features, pretty much getting all top quality items beside rear suspension and carbon fiber frame. Go ride a few, trek is having a factory demo in my town next weekend so thats when I will make my final decision, I may end up with a full suspension bike we will see. My gun fund hopes not.
Re: Bike advise
You might want to look for a used cyclo-cross bike. They are definitely trail capable but will be much faster on regular pavement, gravel, sand.
What is the terrain like around you? If it's fairly flat, a fixed gear can be a nice inexpensive option.
You might want to look for a used cyclo-cross bike. They are definitely trail capable but will be much faster on regular pavement, gravel, sand.
What is the terrain like around you? If it's fairly flat, a fixed gear can be a nice inexpensive option.
Re: Bike advise
whatever you do, don't buy a cheap full suspension bike
I used to own a custom high end mountain bike shop, ride a lot and used to race a bunch
what's your budget?
how big are you and how much do you weigh?
whatever you do, don't buy a cheap full suspension bike
I used to own a custom high end mountain bike shop, ride a lot and used to race a bunch
what's your budget?
how big are you and how much do you weigh?
Re: Bike advise
I'm 5 9 and 175lbs and I live in the mountains. Its fairly flat in town. What is a cyclo-cross? Right now budget is about $400. I found this:
http://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/600ht_xii.htm
any good, or is there something better out there?
I'm 5 9 and 175lbs and I live in the mountains. Its fairly flat in town. What is a cyclo-cross? Right now budget is about $400. I found this:
http://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/600ht_xii.htm
any good, or is there something better out there?
Re: Bike advise
If your budget is $400, I would say you definitely want to go used. Heavily worn high end gear is probably still a better bet than the gear on that Motebecane. If you are just dipping your toe in the water, maybe the Motebecane is the right way to go... just expect that if you ride it every day for about 6 months, you'll need a new bike at that point.
Cyclocross is a specific type of racing where they set up a course in a park or a field. The bikes basically resemble road bikes but they have more clearance for mud around the tires, thicker knobby tires for sandy or muddy terrain, and mountain bike style brakes. So, they are meant to be taken offroad. But if you find yourself on a stretch of regular pavement, you'll be faster than a mountain bike.
If your budget is $400, I would say you definitely want to go used. Heavily worn high end gear is probably still a better bet than the gear on that Motebecane. If you are just dipping your toe in the water, maybe the Motebecane is the right way to go... just expect that if you ride it every day for about 6 months, you'll need a new bike at that point.
Cyclocross is a specific type of racing where they set up a course in a park or a field. The bikes basically resemble road bikes but they have more clearance for mud around the tires, thicker knobby tires for sandy or muddy terrain, and mountain bike style brakes. So, they are meant to be taken offroad. But if you find yourself on a stretch of regular pavement, you'll be faster than a mountain bike.
Re: Bike advise
Is pretty much everything that bikesdirect sells junk? Been looking around also found a Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo mountain bike for 250. That's pretty much it, it is however one of the downsizes to living in a small community.
Is pretty much everything that bikesdirect sells junk? Been looking around also found a Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo mountain bike for 250. That's pretty much it, it is however one of the downsizes to living in a small community.
Re: Bike advise
Fisher has been a great name in the past...I've been riding since 1989.
For $250 that sounds like a steal... but like a lot of companies they are probably having that made in China. I just don't have any experience with Chinese made bikes. All of my stuff from the 90's is still pretty solid and it was all made in the USA, Italy, or Japan. but...$250 for a Fisher sounds like a hell of a deal.
I just looked that bike up and if BikesDirect is legit that looks like a great mountain bike for the money. You're probably looking at assembling it yourself but if you are mechanical you can figure it out with some youtube videos. I'd say go for it!
Fisher has been a great name in the past...I've been riding since 1989.
For $250 that sounds like a steal... but like a lot of companies they are probably having that made in China. I just don't have any experience with Chinese made bikes. All of my stuff from the 90's is still pretty solid and it was all made in the USA, Italy, or Japan. but...$250 for a Fisher sounds like a hell of a deal.
I just looked that bike up and if BikesDirect is legit that looks like a great mountain bike for the money. You're probably looking at assembling it yourself but if you are mechanical you can figure it out with some youtube videos. I'd say go for it!
Re: Bike advise
I have track tires that cost me $250 for one set... so, $250 for a whole bike seems like a reasonable gamble. A quick perusal of online ratings shows a lot of people who love that bike...
I have track tires that cost me $250 for one set... so, $250 for a whole bike seems like a reasonable gamble. A quick perusal of online ratings shows a lot of people who love that bike...
Re: Bike advise
This is what the fisher comes with:
Aluminum frame, front shocks, mostly Shimano LX components, SPD pedals, 27 speed. Bontrager rims & hubs, wheels & tires in great shape, new brake pads, rear brake stiffener.
I looked at the bike and it appears to be in good shape, full disclaimer I don't know sh!t about bikes hence the original post. So would I be better off getting the fisher and adding/repairing as much as possible up to my maximum budget or purchasing the motobecane. I can put it together.
This is what the fisher comes with:
Aluminum frame, front shocks, mostly Shimano LX components, SPD pedals, 27 speed. Bontrager rims & hubs, wheels & tires in great shape, new brake pads, rear brake stiffener.
I looked at the bike and it appears to be in good shape, full disclaimer I don't know sh!t about bikes hence the original post. So would I be better off getting the fisher and adding/repairing as much as possible up to my maximum budget or purchasing the motobecane. I can put it together.
Re: Bike advise
TCB... that bike is equipped like a lot of $1000+ bikes. If you can get it for 250 in your size, it would be a great deal.
TCB... that bike is equipped like a lot of $1000+ bikes. If you can get it for 250 in your size, it would be a great deal.
Re: Bike advise
The first thing I'd recommend is you buy from a local bike shop. Yes, it will cost more up front but you make up for it on the back end. It takes a while to accumulate the special tools and mechanical skills that bicycle maintenance and repair requires. If you've bought from a proper bike shop, you'll get special consideration from them because you bought it there.
And I'd look for a 29er hardtail. 29ers have the same 700mm diameter wheels as the traditional road bike. Ordinary MTBs have 650mm wheels, about 2" less in diameter. Larger wheels roll easier, which you'll appreciate on the road, and they roll smoother over bumps, which somewhat mitigates the lack of rear suspension. Rear suspension is worse than worthless on the road because it sucks up energy every time you turn the pedals.
Other reasons to buy locally, you can test-ride the bike. Not having ridden in a while, you probably don't have a preference between trigger shifters and twist grip shifters. A short test ride won't give you a great deal of time to make up your mind but it's 1000% more of a chance than you'll have buying online.
And buying locally also gives you opportunity to examine the bike and get a better idea of its quality. The frame is the most important bit because everything else is "upgradeable" in bits and pieces, and most everything on the bike will wear out in time and need replacing anyway. A good frame will last decades.
I have a Trek 6700 (650 hardtail) I bought as a "commuter" bike when I was working in SWA. I've got a rear rack with removable trunk bag on it and I still use it for quick trips to town. It's shod with Continental Town & Country tires, which look kind of like the Mohawk tires on the old WWII jeeps. The tread is smooth in the middle but it has blocky shoulders. Unlike knobbies, they roll smoothly on asphalt but they're capable enough for light duty off-roading. And it has the traditional V-brakes because I don't care for the cable-operated disk brakes.
If I had it to do over, the only thing I'd do different is I'd have bought it in a 29er. I thought at the time that the 29ers were a passing fad but I was wrong on that count.
The first thing I'd recommend is you buy from a local bike shop. Yes, it will cost more up front but you make up for it on the back end. It takes a while to accumulate the special tools and mechanical skills that bicycle maintenance and repair requires. If you've bought from a proper bike shop, you'll get special consideration from them because you bought it there.
And I'd look for a 29er hardtail. 29ers have the same 700mm diameter wheels as the traditional road bike. Ordinary MTBs have 650mm wheels, about 2" less in diameter. Larger wheels roll easier, which you'll appreciate on the road, and they roll smoother over bumps, which somewhat mitigates the lack of rear suspension. Rear suspension is worse than worthless on the road because it sucks up energy every time you turn the pedals.
Other reasons to buy locally, you can test-ride the bike. Not having ridden in a while, you probably don't have a preference between trigger shifters and twist grip shifters. A short test ride won't give you a great deal of time to make up your mind but it's 1000% more of a chance than you'll have buying online.
And buying locally also gives you opportunity to examine the bike and get a better idea of its quality. The frame is the most important bit because everything else is "upgradeable" in bits and pieces, and most everything on the bike will wear out in time and need replacing anyway. A good frame will last decades.
I have a Trek 6700 (650 hardtail) I bought as a "commuter" bike when I was working in SWA. I've got a rear rack with removable trunk bag on it and I still use it for quick trips to town. It's shod with Continental Town & Country tires, which look kind of like the Mohawk tires on the old WWII jeeps. The tread is smooth in the middle but it has blocky shoulders. Unlike knobbies, they roll smoothly on asphalt but they're capable enough for light duty off-roading. And it has the traditional V-brakes because I don't care for the cable-operated disk brakes.
If I had it to do over, the only thing I'd do different is I'd have bought it in a 29er. I thought at the time that the 29ers were a passing fad but I was wrong on that count.
