Gunsmithing Bluing -----> Blacking ???

[03psd]

I have an old Mauser that the finish is very worn on. I want to reblue it but want the finish to be closer to original than the deep BLUE a traditional bluing product like Super Blue will give. Is there a chemical that will actually make it more black than blue. I saw a product called Aluminum Black which claims to turn aluminum black but I dont know what it will do to steel.

suggestions?

 

[BOLTRIPPER]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

much of what ends up as a high luster blue job is in the metal prep.....read polish and buff the metal and the luster comes.

old lugers had something called a straw blue, which offered a lighter "straw" patina on some parts....but ultimately someone that do a lot of period type refinishing can offer some ideas as to what can now be had....stay tuned

 

[USMCj]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

Blue Wonder Gun Black works very well. Brownells has it.

 

[03psd]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blue Wonder Gun Black works very well. Brownells has it. </div></div>

this looks promising but I cant find any info online about first hand experiences with it. Lots of folks selling it but not much feedback about it.

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish.

 

[BOLTRIPPER]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish. </div></div>



then get it bead blasted and get it parked !

 

[03psd]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish. </div></div>



then get it bead blasted and get it parked ! </div></div>

Are you paying?? j/k.

I would if it wouldnt cost more than what I paid for the entire rifle. I am looking for a DIY solution that will cost less than $50 and a few hours of my time. I am spring for a $10 bottle of the Aluminum Black and test it on a piece of scrap carbon steel I have sitting around just to see what happens.

 

[BOLTRIPPER]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

garbage in garbage out..............

 

[RADcustom]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish. </div></div>



then get it bead blasted and get it parked ! </div></div>

Are you paying?? j/k.

I would if it wouldnt cost more than what I paid for the entire rifle. I am looking for a DIY solution that will cost less than $50 and a few hours of my time. I am spring for a $10 bottle of the Aluminum Black and test it on a piece of scrap carbon steel I have sitting around just to see what happens.
</div></div>

The aluminum black will not do anything to carbon steel. Birchwood casey makes cold blue and it might give you the finish looking for. As was stated, the finish of the metal before you blue it will dictate the finish after. Krylon is cheap.

 

[jacq220]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

the more black color comes from modern chemicals and the modern process of hot blueing... the more blue finish can be achieved w/ rust bluing which is traditionally more "blue" than hot bluing.... its a chemical that is applied to a prepared/degreased surface and allowed to rust red.... the part is then boiled converting the red oxide to black oxide... then its carded off and another layer applied... here in central indiana this time of year it takes about a week for a good layer of rust to form... typically 6-8 layers are used... i am set up to do this, although its more expensive than a Hot blue... i can do this in ANY grit finish you desire, including a blasted finish.

 

[biglakesrule]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish. </div></div>

then get it bead blasted and get it parked !</div></div>


On this note, got any suggestions for where to send a rifle for park'ing?

 

[chpprguy]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

I have used Gravoxide with good results for a dull black....
These were small parts, screws, etc, so I can't speak to it's wearability......

it's intended for blackening brass...

 

[David300]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

I put Aluminum black on a polished Winchester bolt to see what it would do and I now have a nice shiny blue bolt..

 

[USMCj]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

This is what you want http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27174/Product/GUN_BLUE___BLACK_KITS

It will make any carbon steel black if you follow the instructions. And it is more durable than hot blue. Works very well IMHO.

I have used in to black the bolt head and lugs on my Surgeon so It doesnt rust (I painted the rest of the bolt)

If you want to see a video of how it works go here http://www.bluewonder.us/

Both Blue wonder blue kit and black kit work the same way, one blues and one blacks metal is all.

 

[BOLTRIPPER]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biglakesrule</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 03psd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

To clarify, I DO NOT want a high luster deep blue like a new Sako, Blaser or other high end gun. I want a matte or satin black finish. </div></div>

then get it bead blasted and get it parked !</div></div>


On this note, got any suggestions for where to send a rifle for park'ing?</div></div>



you may wish to check your local yellow pages and ask around....but i have parked a metric shit ton of guns in an aviation machine shop that had the tanks set up to do cams and crank shafts,,,,,,the tanks were almost as tall as me and i'm 6ft plus.....and the shop had several bead blast cabinets.

you can save yourself lots of heart ache and tears buy totally disassembling your mauser and stringing all the parts together with steel wire....like safety wire and cork the barrel so the acid do not otherwise adulterate the bore.....DO NOT park the springs.

the more time you prep the metal the better the park job will come out

 

[Clark]

Re: Bluing -----> Blacking ???

The high polish of Lothar Walther Chrome Moly barrels from Brownells do not hold paint or blue well. They also want to slip in the 4 jaw chuck from the small torque of cutting threads .003" per pass.

<span style="font-weight: bold">But bead blasted barrels soak up finish like fresh plowed ground soaks up piss.</span>

My cold blue shpeal:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used to be on a kick that Dicropan was darker, but Oxpho blue lasted
longer, so I would put Dicropan on first and get it down in the micro
valleys, and then run Oxpho on the micro ridges.

That trick makes dark and long lasting cold blue, but it only works on
steels that take both cold blues well.

If you can find this stuff, get some, and you will broaden what you can
do besides Oxpho and Dicropan.

http://www.g96.com/miva/graphics/00000001/gunbluecreme-small.gif


You will need:
1) Towels
2) Paper towels
3) Kleenex
4) Hot running water
5) 3 dedicated tooth brushes
6) Motor oil
7) Oxpho blue: liquid works better, cream is easier to use
8) Some other darker cold blue
9) Liquid detergent, like SIMPLE GREEN

Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the dark cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the Oxpho cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Apply oil lightly without rubbing off the Oxpho blue.
Leave overnight.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry.
Rub oil on it.
Wipe off excess oil.

Repeat until dark and durable enough.

For whole barrels, spin them in the lathe to rub in the Oxpho.

With barrels, put a rubber stopper in the muzzle and breech to keep
liquids out.

Hair dryer or heat gun can warm parts. </div></div>