Just finished my Remmy 700 build the other day and Took it out shooting. After Fireing a round the bolt will stick at the very top when opening. At first I thought it could be the Sako extractor but i did some work on that and it didnt seem to help. Ive used several diffrent loads with it ( By the way Its a 338 LM) and that hasnt made any diffrence either.If I camber a round and eject it without firing it dosent stick. Any sugestions on what could be causing this. Thanks
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Gunsmithing Bolt Sticking Problem
- Thread starter pac-nor338
- Start date
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
Sounds like 'bolt lift' on an overly hot round. Stock ammo or home rolled to super bad?
Sounds like 'bolt lift' on an overly hot round. Stock ammo or home rolled to super bad?
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
Thease are my own handloads but ive even tryed downloading them below what all the reloading books say. Its not stiff when lifting the bolt handle till you get to the very top.
Thease are my own handloads but ive even tryed downloading them below what all the reloading books say. Its not stiff when lifting the bolt handle till you get to the very top.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
Check your cam - back by the bolt handle - excessive wear or a burr or something - lube it up a bit and try again...
Check your cam - back by the bolt handle - excessive wear or a burr or something - lube it up a bit and try again...
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
Does your brass have any shiny spots back towards the head. A tight chamber
will do just what you describe. the bolt rotates until it starts to cam the shell out
and just stops like it hit a wall. You have to bang them up to extract the shell from
that point. You may even see a little scuffing on a chambered but unfired shell.
Does your brass have any shiny spots back towards the head. A tight chamber
will do just what you describe. the bolt rotates until it starts to cam the shell out
and just stops like it hit a wall. You have to bang them up to extract the shell from
that point. You may even see a little scuffing on a chambered but unfired shell.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
sorry about that, I deleted my arrant posts.
I'd had wwaayy too many "Fathers Day" Jello shots. Then replying to the wrong topic. Anyway, my bad, my apologies.
sorry about that, I deleted my arrant posts.
I'd had wwaayy too many "Fathers Day" Jello shots. Then replying to the wrong topic. Anyway, my bad, my apologies.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
I have had this problem before and it turned out the barrel was out of alignment with the reciever, so much so fired rounds would only chamber when realigned to top dead center of the bend! But I still won matches even though I was out of right windage.Check your run out with a gauge or carefully roll them on a flat surface to see if the neck is whoopdie. The same rifle which I paid a small fortune had a poorly timed bolt with incorect bolt lug angels.It took me a year to figure it out and a grand to fix with a new gunsmith.
I have had this problem before and it turned out the barrel was out of alignment with the reciever, so much so fired rounds would only chamber when realigned to top dead center of the bend! But I still won matches even though I was out of right windage.Check your run out with a gauge or carefully roll them on a flat surface to see if the neck is whoopdie. The same rifle which I paid a small fortune had a poorly timed bolt with incorect bolt lug angels.It took me a year to figure it out and a grand to fix with a new gunsmith.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
I have a match chamber so im guessing that might be the problem. Is there any way to fix this or am i just stuck with what i got.
I have a match chamber so im guessing that might be the problem. Is there any way to fix this or am i just stuck with what i got.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
If it is what I mentioned (you didn't answer the question) and your brass is scuffed shiney in a place or two at the
head, take a good look at the chamber and make sure it is polished a bit. If it is you
will either have to hone it or get a small base sizing die.(send a few spent cases to
redding, forster or rcbs and they can make a custom die for you also) The only other fix I know of is a larger chamber reamer dimension at the head. Yours could be re-ground to allow it in deaper without cutting the throat or shoulder at all I would think.
If it is what I mentioned (you didn't answer the question) and your brass is scuffed shiney in a place or two at the
head, take a good look at the chamber and make sure it is polished a bit. If it is you
will either have to hone it or get a small base sizing die.(send a few spent cases to
redding, forster or rcbs and they can make a custom die for you also) The only other fix I know of is a larger chamber reamer dimension at the head. Yours could be re-ground to allow it in deaper without cutting the throat or shoulder at all I would think.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
After checking everything you guys told me and nothing seemed to be wrong I just started a process of elmination. Luckly The first thing i tried worked. I took out my new callahan Firing pin assembley any put the factory J-Lock assembly back in. This seemed to fix my bolt sticking problem. I inspected the callahan unit and cannot find anything wrong with it. Anyone know why this would be causing me problems. I cant use the j-lock unless i take my adjustable cheek pieace off and i would rather not do it. Thanks By the way I tried lubing up the callahan unit and that didnt help any.
After checking everything you guys told me and nothing seemed to be wrong I just started a process of elmination. Luckly The first thing i tried worked. I took out my new callahan Firing pin assembley any put the factory J-Lock assembly back in. This seemed to fix my bolt sticking problem. I inspected the callahan unit and cannot find anything wrong with it. Anyone know why this would be causing me problems. I cant use the j-lock unless i take my adjustable cheek pieace off and i would rather not do it. Thanks By the way I tried lubing up the callahan unit and that didnt help any.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
Most of the aftermarket pin assemblies use an aluminum shroud and stainless steel cocking piece with stronger firing pin springs. The cocking piece can also be larger then the factory part.
A combo of things can be working against you with this aftermarket part. The fit between the aftermarket cocking piece and the slot in the action and the fit between the cocking piece and the trigger sear, the stainless steel cocking piece rubbing on an aluminum shroud, the stronger spring requiring more force to cock the weapon. Any one of these or all of them together can cause you problems.
When you cock the weapon and close the bolt then open the bolt again without dropping the hammer there is significant less force required to manipulate the bolt and you may not experience the same problem as you would if you dropped the hammer every time.
The only aftermarket pin assemblies that I have had zero issues with are made by Pacific Tool and Gage. I use either those or factory Remington.
Most of the aftermarket pin assemblies use an aluminum shroud and stainless steel cocking piece with stronger firing pin springs. The cocking piece can also be larger then the factory part.
A combo of things can be working against you with this aftermarket part. The fit between the aftermarket cocking piece and the slot in the action and the fit between the cocking piece and the trigger sear, the stainless steel cocking piece rubbing on an aluminum shroud, the stronger spring requiring more force to cock the weapon. Any one of these or all of them together can cause you problems.
When you cock the weapon and close the bolt then open the bolt again without dropping the hammer there is significant less force required to manipulate the bolt and you may not experience the same problem as you would if you dropped the hammer every time.
The only aftermarket pin assemblies that I have had zero issues with are made by Pacific Tool and Gage. I use either those or factory Remington.
Re: Bolt Sticking Problem
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most of the aftermarket pin assemblies use an aluminum shroud and stainless steel cocking piece with stronger firing pin springs. The cocking piece can also be larger then the factory part.
A combo of things can be working against you with this aftermarket part. The fit between the aftermarket cocking piece and the slot in the action and the fit between the cocking piece and the trigger sear, the stainless steel cocking piece rubbing on an aluminum shroud, the stronger spring requiring more force to cock the weapon. Any one of these or all of them together can cause you problems.
When you cock the weapon and close the bolt then open the bolt again without dropping the hammer there is significant less force required to manipulate the bolt and you may not experience the same problem as you would if you dropped the hammer every time.
The only aftermarket pin assemblies that I have had zero issues with are made by Pacific Tool and Gage. I use either those or factory Remington.
</div></div>
Speaking of Pacific Tool and Gauge, I'm trying to decide between their standard or aluminum Remington 700 firing pin assembly. The firing pin on my factory J-lock assembly broke so this is an opportunity to get rid of the J-lock. The aluminum one is only $9 more but I believe a lot of things could go wrong when trying to join aluminum and steel. Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Ed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most of the aftermarket pin assemblies use an aluminum shroud and stainless steel cocking piece with stronger firing pin springs. The cocking piece can also be larger then the factory part.
A combo of things can be working against you with this aftermarket part. The fit between the aftermarket cocking piece and the slot in the action and the fit between the cocking piece and the trigger sear, the stainless steel cocking piece rubbing on an aluminum shroud, the stronger spring requiring more force to cock the weapon. Any one of these or all of them together can cause you problems.
When you cock the weapon and close the bolt then open the bolt again without dropping the hammer there is significant less force required to manipulate the bolt and you may not experience the same problem as you would if you dropped the hammer every time.
The only aftermarket pin assemblies that I have had zero issues with are made by Pacific Tool and Gage. I use either those or factory Remington.
</div></div>
Speaking of Pacific Tool and Gauge, I'm trying to decide between their standard or aluminum Remington 700 firing pin assembly. The firing pin on my factory J-lock assembly broke so this is an opportunity to get rid of the J-lock. The aluminum one is only $9 more but I believe a lot of things could go wrong when trying to join aluminum and steel. Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Ed
