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Gunsmithing Bolt won't close on new Rem 700 300 RUM, any ideas?

WEATHERBY460

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Minuteman
Jul 12, 2011
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Remington 700 300 Ultra Mag, (American wilderness rifle) brand new with factory ammo.

I had a muzzle break installed and it bedded. I went to shoot it today and the bolt will go forward, but whet cocked down, it stops and will not complete the closer all the way.

I removed scope and base, and also removed from stock, and it still wont close.

Any ideas? I see nothing in chamber.
 
"whet cocked down, it stops and will not complete the closer all the way"

People here will try to help you but they do require clear, concise, detailed symptoms.
They are not there and did not see what you did or did not do.
Your description is horrible.
 
Assuming that you are saying the bolt won't close with a round of ammo in the chamber, it seems possible that when your brake was installed the barrel was removed for threading and the headspace changed when the barrel was reinstalled.

You would like to think someone would have tried the go no go gauges after reinstalling the barrel??
 
You would like to think someone would have tried the go no go gauges after reinstalling the barrel??

One would also like to think that at the first sign of a problem, one would contact the “gunsmith” and get him to fix his fuck up.........:rolleyes:

(And, to giving serious consideration to never using said “gunsmith” for anything, ever again)
 
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I didn't know they remove the action when they install muzzle breaks. Yes, the stock is removed, firing pin is removed, trigger is removed, scope base is removed. It does close when no case in chamber.
 
It was probably that way before the muzzle was threaded.
Unless the barrel was removed and a different recoil lug of a lesser thickness was accidentally installed in its place it was most likely short headspaced to begin with.
Did you chamber any rounds before sending it to be worked on ?
 
Sounds like you have some metal chips in the locking lugs?
If he blew out the barrel with compressed air this is kinda common.
If you have a lug recess tool try it and see what comes out
if you don't use a stiff piece of wire bent like the letter "L" wrapped with a cotton patch.
I have seen a single kernel of powder lock a action up
 
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Seems there's problems with reading comprehension here.

No shit Dave is right, I read through it again and " Brain Fart " action removed same problem.
NEED SLEEP
So I'm sticking with my original post, either short headspace to begin with, different lug of lesser thickness installed by mistake or as mentioned foreign object causing interference/obstruction.
Good call Dave, I get shoulders deep in the black hole without enough sleep ???
 
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If I manually put the case in under the extractor...then the bolt will close. The case will not go past the extractor for some reason. I'm not sure how the extractor works, seem too stiff to give at all.
rem.jpg
 
If I manually put the case in under the extractor...then the bolt will close. The case will not go past the extractor for some reason. I'm not sure how the extractor works, seem too stiff to give at all.View attachment 6998672

That comment just eliminated a few variables, remove the extractor and see if there is a metal chip or other obstruction/debris behind it.
If it will close on a round by manual insertion it's not necessarily headspace.
 
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It's boogered now. Gonna need a new extractor. I've never replaced one but assume you have to drill the rivet out.

Yeah, my reading comprehension suffers a bit after a few beers. :)
 
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Some of them snap in and have a single rivet some have a double rivet. Yours looks to have a single rivet.
It would have been easier if you posted the bolt won't close on a piece of brass rather than the bolt won't close.
When I posted about debris in the lug area I assumed it was without brass.
 
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You would like to think someone would have tried the go no go gauges after reinstalling the barrel??
that or it was head spaced for a win mag and not rum have you tryed any other flavor of factory ammo ? to ensure its not just bad ammo my first thought would be to contact the smith that dis the work and have him walk you through his process and that may help reveal a mistake...
 
I would not recommend a diy fix on a riveted extractor. They are kind of expensive and there is a good chance of boogering it up on your first couple trys. I've also seen the bolt nose undercut pull off due to an errant hammer stroke and a stuck case some time later.