Just checking to see what brand of bore cleaning solvent do you most prefer? Are solvent brands with ammonia better than brands without? I have been using #9 Hoppe's, just checking to see if there is a better working alternative out there. Thanks for any info that you can give! Jay.
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Bore cleaning solvent ??
- Thread starter jay540firebird
- Start date
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
There are really two types of liquid bore cleaners. The #9 you use is a powder solvent, it really isn't made to cut copper like the ammonia based cleaners. Usually cleaning is done with both, letting the ammonia version sit a minute or two with alternate brushings to remove copper fouling. I seems that everybody has there own way of doing it, some more powder solvent, some more copper solvent. Don't think it really matters, I do usually end up finishing with a mild paste cleaner like JB bore cleaner and I like leaving something in the bore like rem oil. Of course some run alcohol through the bore and leave it bone dry, to each his own!
There are really two types of liquid bore cleaners. The #9 you use is a powder solvent, it really isn't made to cut copper like the ammonia based cleaners. Usually cleaning is done with both, letting the ammonia version sit a minute or two with alternate brushings to remove copper fouling. I seems that everybody has there own way of doing it, some more powder solvent, some more copper solvent. Don't think it really matters, I do usually end up finishing with a mild paste cleaner like JB bore cleaner and I like leaving something in the bore like rem oil. Of course some run alcohol through the bore and leave it bone dry, to each his own!
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I use GM Top Engine Cleaner part #1050002. I bought a case of it before it was discontinued. It is really close to (if not the same as) Butch's Bore Shine.
I use GM Top Engine Cleaner part #1050002. I bought a case of it before it was discontinued. It is really close to (if not the same as) Butch's Bore Shine.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I did see some guys use Kroil oil at the range to patch clean their rifles, before I could ask them how well it works, they were already gone. Jay.
I did see some guys use Kroil oil at the range to patch clean their rifles, before I could ask them how well it works, they were already gone. Jay.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I use M Pro 7, copper cleaner, CLP, gun cleaner and bore gel. I mix the first 3 together(not recommened by company). 2 wet patches and a wet nylon brush and the dry patches come out a pretty green. I think their products are used by the military and are biogradeable. All I have been using fot the last 4 years.
I use M Pro 7, copper cleaner, CLP, gun cleaner and bore gel. I mix the first 3 together(not recommened by company). 2 wet patches and a wet nylon brush and the dry patches come out a pretty green. I think their products are used by the military and are biogradeable. All I have been using fot the last 4 years.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I run a few patches or a bore snake with Kroil threw mine after every shooting, dont clean as rigerously as most. Once or twice a year I use Wipe Out to get it spankin clean.
okie
I run a few patches or a bore snake with Kroil threw mine after every shooting, dont clean as rigerously as most. Once or twice a year I use Wipe Out to get it spankin clean.
okie
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I know there are hundreds of different ways to clean and maintain, it is very well appreciated info on all the techniques used by different shooters.... very good information for me to absorb here. Hell at 48 years old...I learn new things every day. Jay.
I know there are hundreds of different ways to clean and maintain, it is very well appreciated info on all the techniques used by different shooters.... very good information for me to absorb here. Hell at 48 years old...I learn new things every day. Jay.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I'm trying that KG-1 (carbon remover 1st) and KG-12 (copper remover 2nd). Use the rod and patch method with the carbon, then a couple of dry patches to "inspect it" then use a bore brush (nylon) with the kg-12 on it and scrub it back and fourth a few times. Then run a couple of dry patches through and inspect again. if all is well, run a patch of either shooter's choice FP-10 or i, myself, have a bottle of otis O85 ultra lube/oil, and run a patch or 2 with that through.
Takes way less time than the otis system! and i think the KG stuff is great stuff! or maybe i drank the "kool-aid".
Either way - my patches at the end came out very clean.
I kinda followed this method
http://www.longrangepursuit.com/do-it-yourself
then click on the video that uses the KG products (there's only 8 vids to choose from).
Matt
I'm trying that KG-1 (carbon remover 1st) and KG-12 (copper remover 2nd). Use the rod and patch method with the carbon, then a couple of dry patches to "inspect it" then use a bore brush (nylon) with the kg-12 on it and scrub it back and fourth a few times. Then run a couple of dry patches through and inspect again. if all is well, run a patch of either shooter's choice FP-10 or i, myself, have a bottle of otis O85 ultra lube/oil, and run a patch or 2 with that through.
Takes way less time than the otis system! and i think the KG stuff is great stuff! or maybe i drank the "kool-aid".
Either way - my patches at the end came out very clean.
I kinda followed this method
http://www.longrangepursuit.com/do-it-yourself
then click on the video that uses the KG products (there's only 8 vids to choose from).
Matt
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
Use Wipeout (brushless bore cleaner) removes carbon and copper. Chase it with Kroil after dry patching it and your done. Easiest way to clean your rifle and never need to use a brush again.
Disclosure: Use the $2.00 clear plastic tube that you can purchase separately. Stick it far into the chamber as possible before you press the top of the can (1 second only) otherwise you'll have a disaster clean up like no other. Wipeout is equivalent to expansion foam. I learned the hard way the first time using it. LOL.
Use Wipeout (brushless bore cleaner) removes carbon and copper. Chase it with Kroil after dry patching it and your done. Easiest way to clean your rifle and never need to use a brush again.
Disclosure: Use the $2.00 clear plastic tube that you can purchase separately. Stick it far into the chamber as possible before you press the top of the can (1 second only) otherwise you'll have a disaster clean up like no other. Wipeout is equivalent to expansion foam. I learned the hard way the first time using it. LOL.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I've used hoppes #9, hoppes elite, butches, sweets, shooter's choice, Montana X-treme, Wipe-out, etc. I like hoppes elite followed by wipe-out and very last a little Kroils oil to coat the barrel before storage, but I wipe off all extensive oil with clean patches before shooting again.
GA precision has a barrel break-in and cleaning recommendation, and so does 6mmBR website. They both work well.
http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html
http://www.gaprecision.net/ga-precision-download.html
I've used hoppes #9, hoppes elite, butches, sweets, shooter's choice, Montana X-treme, Wipe-out, etc. I like hoppes elite followed by wipe-out and very last a little Kroils oil to coat the barrel before storage, but I wipe off all extensive oil with clean patches before shooting again.
GA precision has a barrel break-in and cleaning recommendation, and so does 6mmBR website. They both work well.
http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html
http://www.gaprecision.net/ga-precision-download.html
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
You need to be cautious about solvents that contain large amounts of ammonia. Ammonia reacts with iron and will eat metal if left on for too long. Now, it would have to be on there for a long time, but it you don't remove all of it then it can cause pitting in your barrel - I've seen it first hand. That's why the IOSSO cleaner was developed - it contains no ammonia like Butch's or #9.
If you have a nice barrel, then only wipe it with a snake to get out the large deposits, and use IOSSO when doing thorough cleanings. Do a YouTube search for John Kreiger and he'll say some interesting things about even cleaning your barrel at all!
Good Luck!
You need to be cautious about solvents that contain large amounts of ammonia. Ammonia reacts with iron and will eat metal if left on for too long. Now, it would have to be on there for a long time, but it you don't remove all of it then it can cause pitting in your barrel - I've seen it first hand. That's why the IOSSO cleaner was developed - it contains no ammonia like Butch's or #9.
If you have a nice barrel, then only wipe it with a snake to get out the large deposits, and use IOSSO when doing thorough cleanings. Do a YouTube search for John Kreiger and he'll say some interesting things about even cleaning your barrel at all!
Good Luck!
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Like helium and oxygen, solvents are chemicals. They don't have a brand. They don't have to be by Gucci and they don't have to be expensive to be good. Its like shit; it is what it is.
So simply, <span style="color: #FF6666">mineral spirits is a solvent</span> and it does what solvents do very well. It dissolves other substances such as soot left in barrels from the ignition and fire left from the explosion of firing bullets.
<span style="color: #FF6666">Isopropyl alcohol also is an effective bore cleaner </span>in the first stage to remove primer and powder residue. Mineral spirits and alcohol have several things in common that haughty folks are not attracted to; they are both inexpensive, and not packaged by designer companies. Alcohol cost a buck a pint.
<span style="color: #FF6666">Kroil is a powerful, microscopic penetrant</span> that will get under copper. Copper streaks on a barrel wall are microscopically thin. It isn't as if the bullet laid down a layer as thick as asphalt in the barrel.
Rather than obsessing about copper build up that is not occurring:
Polish the chamber and then obsess about keeping it clean instead of the barrel being free of copper. Copper is not our enemy except in bench-rest competition. A clean chamber is critical to an accurate shot.
Clean the bolt and maintain it. Guys run dry bolt rails all the time. WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot!!
Cover the scope lenses.
Take care to not bang the knobs around.
Take care of proper torque on stock and sight mount screws.
Disassemble the bolt on bolt action rifles and clean the nasty from the striker and spring.
Wash out the trigger on Remingtons. Run them dry or lube them which ever is your philosophy on that.
Apply a speck of grease on the sear of a Mod70.
Apply a speck of grease behind the bolt's locking lugs.
Clean the bore without obsessing about copper accumulation. Insofar as copper accumulation deteriorating accuracy, except in benchrest competition, in the good quality hand-lapped barrels currently produced, it is fiction.
Take care of the rest of the gun. There are plenty other things to obsess about. Rub it and pet it??
Odorless mineral spirits might be the best bore cleaner there is. It is an awesome parts cleaner. Why not the barrel? For $10.00/gallon, the experiment cannot hurt too much. If you hate it as a bore cleaner, at least you'll have enough left to clean parts for awhile. I use an ammo can for mine. Hang a few parts on a coat hanger, dip them in to hang around while I'm cleaning other things, fish them out and like magic, those pa</span>rts are also clean.
</span>
<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Like helium and oxygen, solvents are chemicals. They don't have a brand. They don't have to be by Gucci and they don't have to be expensive to be good. Its like shit; it is what it is.
So simply, <span style="color: #FF6666">mineral spirits is a solvent</span> and it does what solvents do very well. It dissolves other substances such as soot left in barrels from the ignition and fire left from the explosion of firing bullets.
<span style="color: #FF6666">Isopropyl alcohol also is an effective bore cleaner </span>in the first stage to remove primer and powder residue. Mineral spirits and alcohol have several things in common that haughty folks are not attracted to; they are both inexpensive, and not packaged by designer companies. Alcohol cost a buck a pint.
<span style="color: #FF6666">Kroil is a powerful, microscopic penetrant</span> that will get under copper. Copper streaks on a barrel wall are microscopically thin. It isn't as if the bullet laid down a layer as thick as asphalt in the barrel.
Rather than obsessing about copper build up that is not occurring:
Polish the chamber and then obsess about keeping it clean instead of the barrel being free of copper. Copper is not our enemy except in bench-rest competition. A clean chamber is critical to an accurate shot.
Clean the bolt and maintain it. Guys run dry bolt rails all the time. WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot!!
Cover the scope lenses.
Take care to not bang the knobs around.
Take care of proper torque on stock and sight mount screws.
Disassemble the bolt on bolt action rifles and clean the nasty from the striker and spring.
Wash out the trigger on Remingtons. Run them dry or lube them which ever is your philosophy on that.
Apply a speck of grease on the sear of a Mod70.
Apply a speck of grease behind the bolt's locking lugs.
Clean the bore without obsessing about copper accumulation. Insofar as copper accumulation deteriorating accuracy, except in benchrest competition, in the good quality hand-lapped barrels currently produced, it is fiction.
Take care of the rest of the gun. There are plenty other things to obsess about. Rub it and pet it??
Odorless mineral spirits might be the best bore cleaner there is. It is an awesome parts cleaner. Why not the barrel? For $10.00/gallon, the experiment cannot hurt too much. If you hate it as a bore cleaner, at least you'll have enough left to clean parts for awhile. I use an ammo can for mine. Hang a few parts on a coat hanger, dip them in to hang around while I'm cleaning other things, fish them out and like magic, those pa</span>rts are also clean.
</span>
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DeathByCactus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Breakfree CLP</div></div>
+1 on Breakfree CLP. I use it on all my guns.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DeathByCactus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Breakfree CLP</div></div>
+1 on Breakfree CLP. I use it on all my guns.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson
my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I wont clean fiendishly, maybe every 300 rounds or so. My custom barrels don't seem to build copper and the factory tubes do best with a nice coating so copper cleaning is biannual affair.
Hoppes is my powder cleaner, it drives Mrs. Notquite wild.
Sweets does the biannual.
I think I've had both for a few years now.
I wont clean fiendishly, maybe every 300 rounds or so. My custom barrels don't seem to build copper and the factory tubes do best with a nice coating so copper cleaning is biannual affair.
Hoppes is my powder cleaner, it drives Mrs. Notquite wild.
Sweets does the biannual.
I think I've had both for a few years now.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
Told you there are as many ways to clean a bore as there are meatloaf recipes!!
Told you there are as many ways to clean a bore as there are meatloaf recipes!!
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
+1
If you've got the time there is no better or easier way to clean your barrel...just spray and let sit over night..patch out and oil...done!
A great tip someone on here I use is sticking the plastic tube through a foam ear plug....makes a great seal.
BnG
+1
If you've got the time there is no better or easier way to clean your barrel...just spray and let sit over night..patch out and oil...done!
A great tip someone on here I use is sticking the plastic tube through a foam ear plug....makes a great seal.
BnG
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NoahbodyImportant</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DeathByCactus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Breakfree CLP</div></div>
+1 on Breakfree CLP. I use it on all my guns. </div></div>
After you "clean" your bore with CLP, run a couple of soaked patches with Hoppes benchrest or even #9, let that soak in for about 20 minutes then run dry patches through. Chances are you won't use clp for cleaning anymore.
Personally, I hate the shit. It is a decent lube (though it burns off too fast) and a good protectant, but it sucks as a cleaner. And yes, I have cleaned many things with it. M16's, M4's, M14's, M60's, shotguns and M2 HBMG's.
When I clean, I usually run a couple of wet patches of #9, followed by a couple of dry patches then Gunslick foaming bore cleaner. After that soaks (usually overnight) dry patches, acouple more wet patches to clean the residue out and dry patches.
I don't use oil in my bore, as I am of the opinion that it causes your cold bore shot to be off. If it is just a range rifle, then no sweat. It is always a good idea to protect your bore. Just a dry patch or two before you shoot, though traces will remain.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NoahbodyImportant</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DeathByCactus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Breakfree CLP</div></div>
+1 on Breakfree CLP. I use it on all my guns. </div></div>
After you "clean" your bore with CLP, run a couple of soaked patches with Hoppes benchrest or even #9, let that soak in for about 20 minutes then run dry patches through. Chances are you won't use clp for cleaning anymore.
Personally, I hate the shit. It is a decent lube (though it burns off too fast) and a good protectant, but it sucks as a cleaner. And yes, I have cleaned many things with it. M16's, M4's, M14's, M60's, shotguns and M2 HBMG's.
When I clean, I usually run a couple of wet patches of #9, followed by a couple of dry patches then Gunslick foaming bore cleaner. After that soaks (usually overnight) dry patches, acouple more wet patches to clean the residue out and dry patches.
I don't use oil in my bore, as I am of the opinion that it causes your cold bore shot to be off. If it is just a range rifle, then no sweat. It is always a good idea to protect your bore. Just a dry patch or two before you shoot, though traces will remain.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Larson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson </div></div>
That kind of empirical evidence is nice to know.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Larson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson </div></div>
That kind of empirical evidence is nice to know.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
Shooters choice, and some light oil is all I use for routine cleaning of my personal rifles.
Some essentials for me are a bore guide, patches and a coated cleaning rod. I don't use brushes on my rifles.
For my issue rig I use nylon brushes and boretech, patches and clp to lube.
Bore snake only in the field for emergency cleaning on extended trips, and wire brushes removed.
Shooters choice, and some light oil is all I use for routine cleaning of my personal rifles.
Some essentials for me are a bore guide, patches and a coated cleaning rod. I don't use brushes on my rifles.
For my issue rig I use nylon brushes and boretech, patches and clp to lube.
Bore snake only in the field for emergency cleaning on extended trips, and wire brushes removed.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Larson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson</div></div>
Bill, thanks for the info. However, I must ask, did you then look at the steel under a microscope/magnification? Also, if microscopic pitting occures it is then magnified by having rounds shot through the barrel. So, while I understad that your experiment was done in good faith, I have personally seen pitting in a barrel due to excessive ammonia use followed by shooting. It was a 10+ year old AR-15 SS barrel, but the pits were not really visible to the naked eye, but under magnification it was absolutely evident.
The long and short of it is that Ammonia Hydroxide does react with iron and will dissolve it. Now, this is not to say that it will destroy your rifle within a few times of using it, but the chemical reaction with iron always occures. As such, it's best to not leave AH on for extended periods of time or use it excessively. Additionally, you can tend to neutralize it's impact if you oil the bore after cleaning. Now, if you have a chrome lined barrel, then their shouldn't be any reaction. Now, my chemistry and metallurgy is not perfect, but I believe stainless steel is a mixture of Iron and Chromium which increases the corrosion resistance - but stainless steal is not corrosion proof! I've seen SS plates that have holes eaten straight through due to corrosion. Google it if you don't believe me.
All this to say, everything in moderation. Does Ammonia Hydroxide eat steel? Yes. Will it destroy your barrel? Probably not if you use it sparringly and oil after using it. There are guys who have 50 year old rifles that have been using #9 this whole time. They still shoot, but I suspect that the steel would show pitting on a microscoping level.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Larson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my expierence is this:working in a machine shop for 30 years and shooting competitively..... I too was worried about Sweets 7.62,probably the strongest of amonia based cleaners.I kept a piece of stainless steel wet all day long...with sweets ,pouring it directly on... and reapplying the next day for a week straight.. to check.. erosion/chemical reaction....
Results... "0".. nada.... nutt`n....not even a discoloration in the metal.....
true case not hearsay....
bill larson</div></div>
Bill, thanks for the info. However, I must ask, did you then look at the steel under a microscope/magnification? Also, if microscopic pitting occures it is then magnified by having rounds shot through the barrel. So, while I understad that your experiment was done in good faith, I have personally seen pitting in a barrel due to excessive ammonia use followed by shooting. It was a 10+ year old AR-15 SS barrel, but the pits were not really visible to the naked eye, but under magnification it was absolutely evident.
The long and short of it is that Ammonia Hydroxide does react with iron and will dissolve it. Now, this is not to say that it will destroy your rifle within a few times of using it, but the chemical reaction with iron always occures. As such, it's best to not leave AH on for extended periods of time or use it excessively. Additionally, you can tend to neutralize it's impact if you oil the bore after cleaning. Now, if you have a chrome lined barrel, then their shouldn't be any reaction. Now, my chemistry and metallurgy is not perfect, but I believe stainless steel is a mixture of Iron and Chromium which increases the corrosion resistance - but stainless steal is not corrosion proof! I've seen SS plates that have holes eaten straight through due to corrosion. Google it if you don't believe me.
All this to say, everything in moderation. Does Ammonia Hydroxide eat steel? Yes. Will it destroy your barrel? Probably not if you use it sparringly and oil after using it. There are guys who have 50 year old rifles that have been using #9 this whole time. They still shoot, but I suspect that the steel would show pitting on a microscoping level.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
<span style="font-weight: bold">By Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D., About.com Guide</span>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">What Is Stainless Steel and Why Is it Stainless?
In 1913, English metallurgist Harry Brearly, working on a project to improve rifle barrels, accidentally discovered that adding chromium to low carbon steel gives it stain resistance. In addition to iron, carbon, and chromium, modern stainless steel may also contain other elements, such as nickel, niobium, molybdenum, and titanium. Nickel, molybdenum, niobium, and chromium enhance the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. It is the addition of a minimum of 12% chromium to the steel that makes it resist rust, or stain 'less' than other types of steel. The chromium in the steel combines with oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin, invisible layer of chrome-containing oxide, called the passive film. The sizes of chromium atoms and their oxides are similar, so they pack neatly together on the surface of the metal, forming a stable layer only a few atoms thick. If the metal is cut or scratched and the passive film is disrupted, more oxide will quickly form and recover the exposed surface, protecting it from oxidative corrosion. (Iron, on the other hand, rusts quickly because atomic iron is much smaller than its oxide, so the oxide forms a loose rather than tightly-packed layer and flakes away.) The passive film requires oxygen to self-repair, so stainless steels have poor corrosion resistance in low-oxygen and poor circulation environments. In seawater, chlorides from the salt will attack and destroy the passive film more quickly than it can be repaired in a low oxygen environment.
There is some dispute over whether the corrosion resistance of stainless steel can be enhanced by the process of passivation. Essentially, passivation is the removal of free iron from the surface of the steel. This is performed by immersing the steel in an oxidant, such as nitric acid or citric acid solution. Since the top layer of iron is removed, passivation diminishes surface discoloration. While passivation does not affect the thickness or effectiveness of the passive layer, it is useful in producing a clean surface for a further treatment, such as plating or painting. On the other hand, if the oxidant is incompletely removed from the steel, as sometimes happens in pieces with tight joints or corners, then <span style="color: #3366FF">crevice corrosion may result. Most research indicates that diminishing surface particle corrosion does not reduce susceptibility to pitting corrosion.</span>
</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">By Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D., About.com Guide</span>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">What Is Stainless Steel and Why Is it Stainless?
In 1913, English metallurgist Harry Brearly, working on a project to improve rifle barrels, accidentally discovered that adding chromium to low carbon steel gives it stain resistance. In addition to iron, carbon, and chromium, modern stainless steel may also contain other elements, such as nickel, niobium, molybdenum, and titanium. Nickel, molybdenum, niobium, and chromium enhance the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. It is the addition of a minimum of 12% chromium to the steel that makes it resist rust, or stain 'less' than other types of steel. The chromium in the steel combines with oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin, invisible layer of chrome-containing oxide, called the passive film. The sizes of chromium atoms and their oxides are similar, so they pack neatly together on the surface of the metal, forming a stable layer only a few atoms thick. If the metal is cut or scratched and the passive film is disrupted, more oxide will quickly form and recover the exposed surface, protecting it from oxidative corrosion. (Iron, on the other hand, rusts quickly because atomic iron is much smaller than its oxide, so the oxide forms a loose rather than tightly-packed layer and flakes away.) The passive film requires oxygen to self-repair, so stainless steels have poor corrosion resistance in low-oxygen and poor circulation environments. In seawater, chlorides from the salt will attack and destroy the passive film more quickly than it can be repaired in a low oxygen environment.
There is some dispute over whether the corrosion resistance of stainless steel can be enhanced by the process of passivation. Essentially, passivation is the removal of free iron from the surface of the steel. This is performed by immersing the steel in an oxidant, such as nitric acid or citric acid solution. Since the top layer of iron is removed, passivation diminishes surface discoloration. While passivation does not affect the thickness or effectiveness of the passive layer, it is useful in producing a clean surface for a further treatment, such as plating or painting. On the other hand, if the oxidant is incompletely removed from the steel, as sometimes happens in pieces with tight joints or corners, then <span style="color: #3366FF">crevice corrosion may result. Most research indicates that diminishing surface particle corrosion does not reduce susceptibility to pitting corrosion.</span>
</span>
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
All barrels' bores might have microscopic pitts due to heat expansion and constriction without regard to cleaners just like the layer of copper is probably microscopic. Some believe cold bore is merely psychological - fiction. Copper streak might be too.
Anyone ever mic'd the thickness or tested the lubricity of copper streaks in a bore?
All barrels' bores might have microscopic pitts due to heat expansion and constriction without regard to cleaners just like the layer of copper is probably microscopic. Some believe cold bore is merely psychological - fiction. Copper streak might be too.
Anyone ever mic'd the thickness or tested the lubricity of copper streaks in a bore?
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I did the samething as Bill. My gun builder always sends a piece of the barrel he cuts off with the same chamber as my rifle to make it easy to do my seating deapth.
I took a film canister half full of Sweets and put a nice shiny one into it and let it set until the damn thing dried up. Wiped off the piece and it looked as shiny as the rest of the area not in the solution. Then someone said, "Well it needs to have oxygen so setting in the solution doesn't count" SOooo.. I dipped it and let it dry and set for a couple of more weeks. Still no noticable difference in the apperance of the steel.
Now, granted I don't have a microscope but I quit worring about it after that. However I still "DO NOT" leave it for longer than a few minutes when cleaning, at least until I get a microscope!!HA
I did the samething as Bill. My gun builder always sends a piece of the barrel he cuts off with the same chamber as my rifle to make it easy to do my seating deapth.
I took a film canister half full of Sweets and put a nice shiny one into it and let it set until the damn thing dried up. Wiped off the piece and it looked as shiny as the rest of the area not in the solution. Then someone said, "Well it needs to have oxygen so setting in the solution doesn't count" SOooo.. I dipped it and let it dry and set for a couple of more weeks. Still no noticable difference in the apperance of the steel.
Now, granted I don't have a microscope but I quit worring about it after that. However I still "DO NOT" leave it for longer than a few minutes when cleaning, at least until I get a microscope!!HA
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I have tried most major brands of cleaners out there and from what I have found TM Solution is my choice. I am supprised not to see more people using it. If you let it work no brushing is necessary unless the bore has not been cleaned in a very long time and then it only speeds up the process. I stay away from abrasive products like Isso paste, and JB. I do think they have their place but not in my custom barrels, 2 reasons why the main is b/c the barrels dont require it to be cleaned and #2 I have seen custom barrels start picking up copper very heavy after using it. Now on factory barrels it may be ok.
I have tried most major brands of cleaners out there and from what I have found TM Solution is my choice. I am supprised not to see more people using it. If you let it work no brushing is necessary unless the bore has not been cleaned in a very long time and then it only speeds up the process. I stay away from abrasive products like Isso paste, and JB. I do think they have their place but not in my custom barrels, 2 reasons why the main is b/c the barrels dont require it to be cleaned and #2 I have seen custom barrels start picking up copper very heavy after using it. Now on factory barrels it may be ok.
Re: Bore cleaning solvent ??
I thought I would see if anyone caught that.
Killer spade 13, you win...LOL
And yes, wipe out is the shit.
I thought I would see if anyone caught that.
Killer spade 13, you win...LOL
And yes, wipe out is the shit.
