Gunsmithing Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
- Thread starter danr
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Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
Yes, i did. it is some very tough stuff once cured, but being such a hard finish, if it doesnt have anything t grab onto it will chip rather easily. So make sure you blast the surface with Aluminum Oxide before coating. Bead blasting is not such a good idea as all that will do is polish the surface, you want to rough it up so the paint has something to grab onto.
So either al. oxide blast it, or sand it with 300-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper before painting.
Yes, i did. it is some very tough stuff once cured, but being such a hard finish, if it doesnt have anything t grab onto it will chip rather easily. So make sure you blast the surface with Aluminum Oxide before coating. Bead blasting is not such a good idea as all that will do is polish the surface, you want to rough it up so the paint has something to grab onto.
So either al. oxide blast it, or sand it with 300-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper before painting.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
I tried it on my s.s. barrel. I sanded it, degreased it, cleaned, cleaned, and then cleaned. It is ok. I will try the duracoat soon. I think the baked on finishes may have an edge though. Just my .02
I tried it on my s.s. barrel. I sanded it, degreased it, cleaned, cleaned, and then cleaned. It is ok. I will try the duracoat soon. I think the baked on finishes may have an edge though. Just my .02
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
The Aluma-hyde does not require baking. If you're looking for a more durable finish I would get the Gun Kote bake on finish.
The Aluma-hyde does not require baking. If you're looking for a more durable finish I would get the Gun Kote bake on finish.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
I sprayed my 40X's stainless barrel with it and couldn't be happier. I did NOT sand or blast my barrel in any way and the stuff is tough as nails! All I did was be sure to clean the barrel very well with automotive brake cleaner and dry it with a blow-dryer. Most stainless barrels don't have a glossy finish so I don't think there's any reason to sand or blast them at all. After each coat I hit it with the blow-dryer on the "high heat" setting. I protected the crown with one of those squishy ear-plugs. Worked perfect! I'll post a picture ASAP.
I sprayed my 40X's stainless barrel with it and couldn't be happier. I did NOT sand or blast my barrel in any way and the stuff is tough as nails! All I did was be sure to clean the barrel very well with automotive brake cleaner and dry it with a blow-dryer. Most stainless barrels don't have a glossy finish so I don't think there's any reason to sand or blast them at all. After each coat I hit it with the blow-dryer on the "high heat" setting. I protected the crown with one of those squishy ear-plugs. Worked perfect! I'll post a picture ASAP.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
I've had really good luck with it, and I have the best luck when I've cleaned really well, then let the parts sit in the AZ summer sun for a while (I'd guess ~150* metal temp when sprayed).
Barreled action is coyote AHII, scope was cerakoted tan from USO:
I've had really good luck with it, and I have the best luck when I've cleaned really well, then let the parts sit in the AZ summer sun for a while (I'd guess ~150* metal temp when sprayed).
Barreled action is coyote AHII, scope was cerakoted tan from USO:
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
These threads prove heat is important. I have had better results when heating the part first, then heating right after application. The baked on ones I think still have the edge.
These threads prove heat is important. I have had better results when heating the part first, then heating right after application. The baked on ones I think still have the edge.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing.
Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing.</div></div>
I agree completely. I rub the barrel down with steel wool and then clean with brake cleaner/acetone and let air dry. Then spray on. 30 min after the final coat is on I begin heating with a handheld heat gun. Then I let it sit for 2 days before handling and at least a week before shooting.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing.</div></div>
I agree completely. I rub the barrel down with steel wool and then clean with brake cleaner/acetone and let air dry. Then spray on. 30 min after the final coat is on I begin heating with a handheld heat gun. Then I let it sit for 2 days before handling and at least a week before shooting.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing. </div></div>
Agreed! But I still stand by my statement of blasting the part with Aluminum Oxide or sanding it with 300-400 grit sandpaper before painting.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing. </div></div>
Agreed! But I still stand by my statement of blasting the part with Aluminum Oxide or sanding it with 300-400 grit sandpaper before painting.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing. </div></div>
Agreed! But I still stand by my statement of blasting the part with Aluminum Oxide or sanding it with 300-400 grit sandpaper before painting. </div></div>Agreed. The material will definitely adhere better to a rougher finsh. Al oxide is ideal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelcomp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Honestly, you'll get better results by not pre-heating the part. You don't want the material you're spraying to begin curing before it has a chance to adhere to or impregnate the surface. It's best to have the part at room temp, make sure it's as clean as possible, and let it sit for about 5-10 min. after you spray before you start any heat curing. </div></div>
Agreed! But I still stand by my statement of blasting the part with Aluminum Oxide or sanding it with 300-400 grit sandpaper before painting. </div></div>Agreed. The material will definitely adhere better to a rougher finsh. Al oxide is ideal.
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
The rifles I've done with the parts warm 100-150* have no chipping, even at muzzle and where the brass hits the receiver behind the port.
The one's I've done without warming the steel have.
Just my experience, probably worth exactly what you are paying for it......
The rifles I've done with the parts warm 100-150* have no chipping, even at muzzle and where the brass hits the receiver behind the port.
The one's I've done without warming the steel have.
Just my experience, probably worth exactly what you are paying for it......
Re: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II
To be honest, the only part I have had chip on me is the KMW bolt handle on my Surgeon, and I have a feeling it was due to it being semi polished. When I rebarrel (or do a set back) Im going to have the whole thing blasted before I repaint.
To be honest, the only part I have had chip on me is the KMW bolt handle on my Surgeon, and I have a feeling it was due to it being semi polished. When I rebarrel (or do a set back) Im going to have the whole thing blasted before I repaint.
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