I am needing to paint my stainless krieger barrel black on my 6.5CM The stainless just isnt cutting it on a tactical rifle. Will the brownells alumahyde stick very well to the stainless? Lee
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Re: Brownells alumahyde??
It will do ok, rough the metal up by oxide blast or 220 grit paper. degrease with acetone and spray away.
It will do ok, rough the metal up by oxide blast or 220 grit paper. degrease with acetone and spray away.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
For air cure, alumahyde or use the air dry cerakote. Either one will be excellent just be sure to let it cure without touching it for 2 weeks
For air cure, alumahyde or use the air dry cerakote. Either one will be excellent just be sure to let it cure without touching it for 2 weeks
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
Lee
I used alumahyde on 3 of my rifles....i did the steel wool, acetone, then spray. Then after i had sprayed the entire barreled action, I used a heat gun to help set the Alumahyde quicker. I left it hanging for about a day. After that it was ready to go as far as handling. I did wait a week before running ammo through the gun.
Brownell's only had gloss black when I ordered, so after all the rifles had dried, I hit them with flat black krylon and it looks great.
Lee
I used alumahyde on 3 of my rifles....i did the steel wool, acetone, then spray. Then after i had sprayed the entire barreled action, I used a heat gun to help set the Alumahyde quicker. I left it hanging for about a day. After that it was ready to go as far as handling. I did wait a week before running ammo through the gun.
Brownell's only had gloss black when I ordered, so after all the rifles had dried, I hit them with flat black krylon and it looks great.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
Will it hold up agains normal use? Can it be easily stripped if i dont like it? Lee
Will it hold up agains normal use? Can it be easily stripped if i dont like it? Lee
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
i stripped off some that I bubbled, I used the steel wool and with some elbow grease came right off.
i stripped off some that I bubbled, I used the steel wool and with some elbow grease came right off.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
I love the stuff. I use the Alumahyde2 and think it's great for an easy diy job. Done several rifles with it. Holds up well for me. Waiting to finish my long slide 10mm to try their moly/teflon stuff.
I love the stuff. I use the Alumahyde2 and think it's great for an easy diy job. Done several rifles with it. Holds up well for me. Waiting to finish my long slide 10mm to try their moly/teflon stuff.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
I've done alot of AlumaHyde II for people. Couple of tricks and tips-as stated, clean up and prepare the surface. The big ones-if you can "preheat the piece and the paint. Something as simple as placing the rifle in the sun as you get ready. Fill the sink with really hot water and let the paint sit in there for a bit to heat it up. SHAKE THE PAINT! ROLL IT, ETC. Keep doing that every so often while painting. Try to have even runs with the can, meaning start spraying before and keep running it past before stopping. As stated on the can, do a couple or three light coats so it doesn't run, etc.
Once done, if you can leave it in the sun for a few minutes and if possible in the attic. Right now is a good time, the heat wil cure it in 2-3 days.
Leave it alone and don't touch it.
The last rifle I did, I used 550 cord and ran it through the rear tang screw hole. Take a small piece of paper, roll it smaller than the bore, place inside and it will unroll, plugging the bore. A half sheet of paper in the action end, same method.
Hope that helps, seems to work well for me. Oh-go thinner by the bottom portion that will be in contact with the stock/bedding.
I just do this stuff for freiends, no business.
Mark
a shotgun I did-aluminun foil to cover the ejection port
.17 HMR-I pulled that weed by the way!
I've done alot of AlumaHyde II for people. Couple of tricks and tips-as stated, clean up and prepare the surface. The big ones-if you can "preheat the piece and the paint. Something as simple as placing the rifle in the sun as you get ready. Fill the sink with really hot water and let the paint sit in there for a bit to heat it up. SHAKE THE PAINT! ROLL IT, ETC. Keep doing that every so often while painting. Try to have even runs with the can, meaning start spraying before and keep running it past before stopping. As stated on the can, do a couple or three light coats so it doesn't run, etc.
Once done, if you can leave it in the sun for a few minutes and if possible in the attic. Right now is a good time, the heat wil cure it in 2-3 days.
Leave it alone and don't touch it.
The last rifle I did, I used 550 cord and ran it through the rear tang screw hole. Take a small piece of paper, roll it smaller than the bore, place inside and it will unroll, plugging the bore. A half sheet of paper in the action end, same method.
Hope that helps, seems to work well for me. Oh-go thinner by the bottom portion that will be in contact with the stock/bedding.
I just do this stuff for freiends, no business.
Mark
a shotgun I did-aluminun foil to cover the ejection port
.17 HMR-I pulled that weed by the way!
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
We use Alumahyde II here alot also..Although not in the conventional since it works awesome for our application..It's very durable to rock hits and lasts a long time on these cars..As stated before, prep and resisting touching it before full cure are key...In AZ it's over a 100 degrees right now and getting hotter every day so setting out in the sun works best our cure process.Here are a couple before and after shots of our teams cars just freshly done.
We use Alumahyde II here alot also..Although not in the conventional since it works awesome for our application..It's very durable to rock hits and lasts a long time on these cars..As stated before, prep and resisting touching it before full cure are key...In AZ it's over a 100 degrees right now and getting hotter every day so setting out in the sun works best our cure process.Here are a couple before and after shots of our teams cars just freshly done.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
to be more clear it doesn't do well against chemicals. acetone and paint stripper take it right off. With paint stripper it bubbles off in about 5 seconds. Doesn't affect cured duracoat.
does that mean it won't hold up to normal wear and tear and cleaning on a rifle? I don't know. But I'd rather take my chances with duracoat.
to be more clear it doesn't do well against chemicals. acetone and paint stripper take it right off. With paint stripper it bubbles off in about 5 seconds. Doesn't affect cured duracoat.
does that mean it won't hold up to normal wear and tear and cleaning on a rifle? I don't know. But I'd rather take my chances with duracoat.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
For cheap/temporarily solution ... yes, its perfect. But if you can wait and have the green ready, get it done with Black T Birdsong or Cerakote.
MEK will strip Alumahyde right off if you let it soak for 5 mins.
For cheap/temporarily solution ... yes, its perfect. But if you can wait and have the green ready, get it done with Black T Birdsong or Cerakote.
MEK will strip Alumahyde right off if you let it soak for 5 mins.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
its not the ultimate in permanent finishes but it is very durable. As stated clean and prep and proper application are absolutely crucial for a proper cure.
It needs 2-3 days in good 90 degree heat and then I personally let it sit about 2 weeks before I actually USE the item..handling is fine (with clean hands) but I got an itchy trigger finger with one of my rifles and put rings on the rail after about a week...nooooope. Needs more cure time.
The colors are absolutely flat however the clear coat is a somehwat semi-gloss satin look, and is harder to work with (doesn't spray quite as well). The barrel is OD the stock has the clear coat (and a few other colors on it)
Also-if its humid, try to apply it somewhere else it clumps at the nozzle easy.
(best pic showing the colors-rings are OD Duracoat)
its not the ultimate in permanent finishes but it is very durable. As stated clean and prep and proper application are absolutely crucial for a proper cure.
It needs 2-3 days in good 90 degree heat and then I personally let it sit about 2 weeks before I actually USE the item..handling is fine (with clean hands) but I got an itchy trigger finger with one of my rifles and put rings on the rail after about a week...nooooope. Needs more cure time.
The colors are absolutely flat however the clear coat is a somehwat semi-gloss satin look, and is harder to work with (doesn't spray quite as well). The barrel is OD the stock has the clear coat (and a few other colors on it)
Also-if its humid, try to apply it somewhere else it clumps at the nozzle easy.
(best pic showing the colors-rings are OD Duracoat)
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
PM Performance, are you a prep shop or a club driver? I have spent quite a bit of time as a track rat in the past few years running the NESCCA Nationals. I spent a good portion of engineering school working at the club level on D's and S2000's, most of what I'm involved in now is FF1600's
PM Performance, are you a prep shop or a club driver? I have spent quite a bit of time as a track rat in the past few years running the NESCCA Nationals. I spent a good portion of engineering school working at the club level on D's and S2000's, most of what I'm involved in now is FF1600's
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
I'll give my personal experiences with it.
I've used Matte Black, OD Green, Flat Dark Earth, and Dark Park Grey with great success.
If painting stainless I would recommend blasting the surface but if you're like me and don't have the blasting equipment then a good rub down with 200-300grit sandpaper will do the trick.
I've coated the furniture on several AR's and they turned out very nice. Even had requests from friends to do theirs. I've also coated Rem700 stocks and it's tough as nails.
Just yesterday I coated a Ruger Charger Pistol and it looks great. I'm a big fan of Alumahyde II for a do-it-yourselfer.
Whisper
I'll give my personal experiences with it.
I've used Matte Black, OD Green, Flat Dark Earth, and Dark Park Grey with great success.
If painting stainless I would recommend blasting the surface but if you're like me and don't have the blasting equipment then a good rub down with 200-300grit sandpaper will do the trick.
I've coated the furniture on several AR's and they turned out very nice. Even had requests from friends to do theirs. I've also coated Rem700 stocks and it's tough as nails.
Just yesterday I coated a Ruger Charger Pistol and it looks great. I'm a big fan of Alumahyde II for a do-it-yourselfer.
Whisper
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PM Performance, are you a prep shop or a club driver? I have spent quite a bit of time as a track rat in the past few years running the NESCCA Nationals. I spent a good portion of engineering school working at the club level on D's and S2000's, most of what I'm involved in now is FF1600's </div></div>
We are a prep shop in AZ.We run cars in all levels of motorsports amateur and professional.Those two Atlantics are ex pro series cars now running in SCCA.We also run Pro Mazda Series cars.We'll be coming to the Sprints in June with a couple customers so if your around stop by..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PM Performance, are you a prep shop or a club driver? I have spent quite a bit of time as a track rat in the past few years running the NESCCA Nationals. I spent a good portion of engineering school working at the club level on D's and S2000's, most of what I'm involved in now is FF1600's </div></div>
We are a prep shop in AZ.We run cars in all levels of motorsports amateur and professional.Those two Atlantics are ex pro series cars now running in SCCA.We also run Pro Mazda Series cars.We'll be coming to the Sprints in June with a couple customers so if your around stop by..
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PM Performance</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We are a prep shop in AZ.We run cars in all levels of motorsports amateur and professional.Those two Atlantics are ex pro series cars now running in SCCA.We also run Pro Mazda Series cars.We'll be coming to the Sprints in June with a couple customers so if your around stop by.. </div></div>
Cool. I don't think we're going to the sprints because we're going to the Anniversiary race at Elkhart and then probably back out for the Runoffs assuming that my driver can get enough points to do it. If you're at the Runoffs I'll be sure to stop by and say hi.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PM Performance</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We are a prep shop in AZ.We run cars in all levels of motorsports amateur and professional.Those two Atlantics are ex pro series cars now running in SCCA.We also run Pro Mazda Series cars.We'll be coming to the Sprints in June with a couple customers so if your around stop by.. </div></div>
Cool. I don't think we're going to the sprints because we're going to the Anniversiary race at Elkhart and then probably back out for the Runoffs assuming that my driver can get enough points to do it. If you're at the Runoffs I'll be sure to stop by and say hi.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
I just did a M4 in Alumahyde II desert Tan. I followed all of the prep instructions: Clean, degrease, pre-heat, small thin coats building to a final finsh coat. Let sit in sun for many hours then moved indoors. I then got tired of waiting (12hours) so I put it in the oven. Wife was pissed off!
I baked at 200 degrees for 5 hours. Let cool and then assembled.
Its pretty damn tough stuff. I attempted to add an other color but this time kryoln. Hated it. It wiped off with a light touch of mineral spirits. The Alumahyde II shrugged off the Mineral Spirits with ease. It handles Butchs Bore Shine with no effect also.
I have done several rifles and many parts in this stuff and it works.
If you have NO patience like me just bake it in the oven when the wife is out of the house for a few hours and you are GTG. Better yet take your parts to a buddies house, a single buddy, and do it there in in one day.
I just did a M4 in Alumahyde II desert Tan. I followed all of the prep instructions: Clean, degrease, pre-heat, small thin coats building to a final finsh coat. Let sit in sun for many hours then moved indoors. I then got tired of waiting (12hours) so I put it in the oven. Wife was pissed off!
I baked at 200 degrees for 5 hours. Let cool and then assembled.
Its pretty damn tough stuff. I attempted to add an other color but this time kryoln. Hated it. It wiped off with a light touch of mineral spirits. The Alumahyde II shrugged off the Mineral Spirits with ease. It handles Butchs Bore Shine with no effect also.
I have done several rifles and many parts in this stuff and it works.
If you have NO patience like me just bake it in the oven when the wife is out of the house for a few hours and you are GTG. Better yet take your parts to a buddies house, a single buddy, and do it there in in one day.
Re: Brownells alumahyde??
Has anyone on this site used Dupont Vari-Prime. I sprayed gallons of it when I worked in an aluminum chassis shop. It is also suitable for stainless. The stuff is a self etching primer. It has acid in the mix to bite into the surface as it dries. The stuff I used was a light OD green in color. The stuff was pricy, but so is some of this gunkote, cerakote stuff.
Has anyone on this site used Dupont Vari-Prime. I sprayed gallons of it when I worked in an aluminum chassis shop. It is also suitable for stainless. The stuff is a self etching primer. It has acid in the mix to bite into the surface as it dries. The stuff I used was a light OD green in color. The stuff was pricy, but so is some of this gunkote, cerakote stuff.
