Brushes?

alamo5000

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Jun 18, 2020
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I have been seeing some various stuff online about brushing out the case necks before you reload.

Most recently Bolt Action Reloading mentioned it as well as the recent AMP product release video for their new press.

As an experiment I used a copper bore brush on some cases and did a 5 shot test. I know I should have used nylon but I was curious.

It didn't work out at all. The brush I used was too stiff and it really messed up the neck tension. I had it on a handle and it basically acted like a mandrel.

Anyway these recent videos have made me curious. Now I am looking at the Forster bench mount neck brushes. Theirs has some dry lube that comes with it.

The question is what is your experience with brushing case necks? In your experience does the addition of dry lube help?

Please add any other tidbits about your preferences and process and what you use (if anything) below.
 
People use brushes to apply dry lube to the inside of the neck. That’s the best use of a brush in the neck. Otherwise it will do nothing or scratch up the inside.
The video below shows the results of not brushing and brushing with a plain nylon brush without anything else applied. No lube whatsoever.

The segment begins at 23:19

It shows actual results per their machine.

 
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I should elaborate that this video is what made me go 'hmmm'... And hence the question (s).

I'm not trying to call anyone out but rather see what others have had happen and more importantly what where the real world results that they are getting...
 
As @918v stated best use is to use to apply dry lube.
That is the only way i have ever used the method but also used nylon brushes.
A slight carbon build up in the necks i believe achieves the same effect but just my opinion based on years of use.
I could be wrong but im a dogmatic type that duplicates what has worked and moves on from what didnt.
 
As @918v stated best use is to use to apply dry lube.
That is the only way i have ever used the method but also used nylon brushes.
A slight carbon build up in the necks i believe achieves the same effect but just my opinion based on years of use.
I could be wrong but im a dogmatic type that duplicates what has worked and moves on from what didnt.
Up until recently I've never brushed cases and really never cared about it. For the longest time I only owned a really basic chronograph to give me a rough idea where I was at. All the shooting and reloading I did before didn't really need to go down rabbit holes.

Now though I am evolving and trying new stuff. I have new gear and whatever stuff that allows more of this type reloading and shooting.

Long story short I'm trying to pick other people's brains to see if I can learn something.
 
Up until recently I've never brushed cases and really never cared about it. For the longest time I only owned a really basic chronograph to give me a rough idea where I was at. All the shooting and reloading I did before didn't really need to go down rabbit holes.

Now though I am evolving and trying new stuff. I have new gear and whatever stuff that allows more of this type reloading and shooting.

Long story short I'm trying to pick other people's brains to see if I can learn something.
I think HBN bullet coatings or similar are a better use of your time and resources but obviosly just my opinion since you have to use elevated powder charges to achieve the same velocities without.
A quality hand lapped barrel eithe cut or button rifled i believe is a better investment and just enjoy shooting.
 
The video below shows the results of not brushing and brushing with a plain nylon brush without anything else applied. No lube whatsoever.

The segment begins at 23:19

It shows actual results per their machine.



The lube is the carbon in the neck. The brush is redistributing it in the neck. The nylon isn’t hard enough to scratch the neck.

Were your necks clean or dirty? Annealed or not?
 
The lube is the carbon in the neck. The brush is redistributing it in the neck. The nylon isn’t hard enough to scratch the neck.

Were your necks clean or dirty? Annealed or not?
The little 5 round test? That was done with brand new virgin Lapua brass. That said that test I did isn't my main question here. It's pretty invalid because I simply didn't use the right stuff to do it.

That said if others have had noticably good results I will buy the correct tools for that job.

I'm wondering what others are doing and in light of that video that was just released what kind of things should I know in a general sense before I go down the rabbit hole.
 
If you plan on shooting dirty brass, then spinning a nylon brush inside the neck will smear the carbon evenly inside the neck and make bullet seating uniform as shown in the video.

If you plan on shooting clean brass then you will need to apply dry lube either by nylon brush or by ceramic media.
 
@Dthomas3523 might add something

They won’t want to hear it.

I’m annealing, sonic cleaning, then using bronze brush to completely clean/polish inside of neck.

Zero or almost zero carbon left in the neck. Using .0015 under neck diameter (some call it neck tension). No lube or graphite at all.

Ends up with 25psi average seating pressure on hydro press. So far is performing more consistent than most anything I’ve done before (have used all the methods above and more).

The one possible downside is cold welding or whatever term people want to use for it. I rarely have bolt gun ammo sitting for a long time, so it’s likely not an issue for me. But I’m going to load some and sit them on a shelf. Check every few weeks and see.

Results are as usual, most of what people claim is rule of thumb, isn’t as cut and dry as claims.
 
They won’t want to hear it.

I’m annealing, sonic cleaning, then using bronze brush to completely clean/polish inside of neck.

Zero or almost zero carbon left in the neck. Using .0015 under neck diameter (some call it neck tension). No lube or graphite at all.

Ends up with 25psi average seating pressure on hydro press. So far is performing more consistent than most anything I’ve done before (have used all the methods above and more).

The one possible downside is cold welding or whatever term people want to use for it. I rarely have bolt gun ammo sitting for a long time, so it’s likely not an issue for me. But I’m going to load some and sit them on a shelf. Check every few weeks and see.

Results are as usual, most of what people claim is rule of thumb, isn’t as cut and dry as claims.
I am totally open to learning and trying. I just don't really think I want to run out and buy every new (to me) whizbang thing to test out. Hence sharing information is great.

I think that new machine from AMP is going to be pretty cool. I won't buy one yet but it will be able to assign a yes or no to a whole lot of things. It might hurt a lot of feelings in the process.

To me I am not a fan of guessing. I like to see and understand how things work, or rather what works best. I don't need to reinvent the wheel to get there I don't think.
 
I am totally open to learning and trying. I just don't really think I want to run out and buy every new (to me) whizbang thing to test out. Hence sharing information is great.

I think that new machine from AMP is going to be pretty cool. I won't buy one yet but it will be able to assign a yes or no to a whole lot of things. It might hurt a lot of feelings in the process.

To me I am not a fan of guessing. I like to see and understand how things work, or rather what works best. I don't need to reinvent the wheel to get there I don't think.
Not sure your ready for reloading just yet…your too open minded lol