Budget 4x4 pickup

Apnea

slow learner
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 17, 2017
266
121
CA
I'm thinking of picking up a smaller pickup for range trips, camping, hunting. Looking for some suggestions for models to consider.

My criteria:
Pickup
4x4
A/C
Power steering
Fuel injection
Decent fuel economy
Cost <$4,000 max (and $2k would be better)
Not going to need upgrades for general off-roading (aside from tires)

Towing is not a priority. Prefer shorter wheelbase.

I've been browsing Toyotas and Rangers since I am familiar with them, but around here asking prices seem to be $8k-ish, which I cannot pay for a knockaround vehicle. I don't have the time to take on another vehicle as a hobby, this is just a transportation tool for me. Don't want a money pit. What are some other vehicles I should look at?
 
You can find some pretty decent older Ford Rangers (2000-2004) in the $4k price range. I had a 2000 Ranger that was the best truck I've owned, and now have a 2004 that's been good so far. Model year around 2005 Explorers are very cheap right now and everywhere.
 
You're looking for a <$4K 4X4 that isn't a money pit, in other words, that won't require significant repairs? Do you see the interent incompatibilities in your requests? Any 4X4 in your price range will have really, really high mileage or be >12 years old. These are the trucks that work well for people handy with a wrench.
 
Tacoma manual 4 cylinder

Too funny. this is the Toyota $2500 gets you these days.
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Jeep cherokee nice flat built in shooting bench, I mean hood. $2500-4000 you can find nice ones. Best motor ever this side of a small block Chevy. Aftermarket galore.
 
Early 90s Toyota 4Runner or Suzuki sidekick/geo tracker. We put 4x4s through their paces up here and these take the most beating with the least work. I am ase certified mechanic. These are what I’m looking for to be my daily driver.
 
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Sidekicks and Trackers both have the dreaded crank pulley failure going for them. Anything Toyota with a 3.0 v6 is to be avoided at all costs, unless you like doing head gaskets. Same goes for the v6 3.0 Fords. Best trucks out there are fifth and sixth generation Toyotas. 2.4L 4 cylinder motor, 5 speed transmission. Seventh gens had sketchy frames that rusted out from under the trucks, a good reason to stay away from them. There is also the older Jeep Comanche pickup, but these seem to be getting more rare by the day.
 
What does an old Yota with a 22R cost?
Not sure what state your from, but I search south west (rust free) states for them. I have no aversion to driving to Arizona from Oklahoma to buy the right one. You're honestly looking at 6 to 8k for something that won't require a ton of motor or body work. They can be had cheaper, but your looking at some rust and bent body panels. If you have no trouble with that, you can find decent drivers for around 4k, give or take. But alas, no AC at that price.
 
Sidekicks and Trackers both have the dreaded crank pulley failure going for them. Anything Toyota with a 3.0 v6 is to be avoided at all costs, unless you like doing head gaskets. Same goes for the v6 3.0 Fords. Best trucks out there are fifth and sixth generation Toyotas. 2.4L 4 cylinder motor, 5 speed transmission. Seventh gens had sketchy frames that rusted out from under the trucks, a good reason to stay away from them. There is also the older Jeep Comanche pickup, but these seem to be getting more rare by the day.
Tell me more about this crank pulley failure? I have a sidekick sport with the 2.0 I wanna throw a diesel in one anyways.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I should have noted at the beginning that I have a wrench and no problem with doing the long term consumables, but I don't want BMW parts prices or something that needs lots of upgrades, and I am ok if I don't have to do the head gaskets. I will look into some of the vehicles mentioned and will consider adjusting the budget.
 
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Tell me more about this crank pulley failure? I have a sidekick sport with the 2.0 I wanna throw a diesel in one anyways.
They have a habit of shearing the key that holds the crank pulley. It will wallow out first, requiring a new pulley. the actual key way in the crank gets wallowed too, usually having to be fixed by welding it back up and milling out the slot again. Our normal fix is to broach new key ways 180* out from the originals and reinstall everything. This is really just buying time as they tend to fail as well. I think it's poor crank material. Hard starts is the tell tale sign. When they start to fail, they will be slightly out of time.
 
I got one for 400 that ran drove and was straight axle. Roof was dented from a light roll (not hard enough to break windshield)
Those are out there. I bought one in a ditch for 250. Blown motor and they kept the wheels and tires. Rebuilt another motor for about 1100 (includes machine shop work) and put about 700 in the wheels and tires. It's an 86 xtra cab 4x4 that gets an honest 21mpg and does everything an old hunting truck should do. My splurges include adding a Ford ranger topper (little short but fixable, hey it was free) and painting it with rattlecan bed liner. I think the true key to keeping these old trucks running is to replace the stock parts with stock parts. My exhaust is next and I want it factory quiet for sneaking into hunting areas. Heck, I even used it to pull out a 2wd F150 pulling a camper one year at hunting camp when it got muddy in the camping area.