Budget type build

[DEEPCREEKTAC]

Looking for budget type accessories to build out my JP-15, was going to sell but it’s such a great shooter I can’t bring myself to part with it, so I’m looking for optics, handguards, and anything else to make it a great DMR rifle. Currently running a vortex 1-6 on it, but would like a little more clarity of what I’m punching holes in at 100.
Not looking to change up anything major just more accessories, like handguard, stock, optics. I’d love to run a can on it but I can’t bring myself to break the blended muzzle/barrel.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Define "budget", otherwise to me that rifle appears to be just fine as the basis for a DMR, just add an optic in the 3-12, 3-15, or 4-16X range and you'll be set.

 

[bfoosh006]

Define "budget", otherwise to me that rifle appears to be just fine as the basis for a DMR, just add an optic in the 3-12, 3-15, or 4-16X range and you'll be set.

I also agree with this comment. A higher magnification scope should be the easy button.
What would you like different in the handguards ? .. and the stock ?

 

[TonyTheTiger]

I can’t bring myself to break the blended muzzle/barrel.

Changing the handguard is going to do that. Like said above, other than a more appropriate optic, why does any of this need changing?

 

[DEEPCREEKTAC]

Would be nice to swap out the handguard for something with Mlok, but I see I could just buy some rails for this current handguard.
Budget I guess just refer to a good quality scope that isn’t so expensive.
I guess the only reason I need to be changing anything would be for personal preference.

Changing the handguard is going to do that. Like said above, other than a more appropriate optic, why does any of this need changing?

Are you saying I can’t remove the hand guard without removing the muzzle? Looks like rails it is.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

If all you’re doing is shooting groups are 100 yards buy a SWFA 12x for $300 and call it a day. A different aftermarket rail isn’t going to get you anything really, but a stock other than an ACE will give you a better bag rest if you want to throw more money at it. A standard A2 sits on a bag nice and is fine for paper punching.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Are you saying I can’t remove the hand guard without removing the muzzle? Looks like rails it is.

Nearly all of the handguards on the market require the muzzle device and gas block to be removed for installation. The only exception may be the two piece set ups that clamp onto a standard GI barrel nut.

 

[Merle]

Those JP handguards require the part that screws onto the upper receiver to be loctited into place with so much loctite that you would probably never get it off without destroying something. You'd be betzer off selling the whole upper receiver group and buying something else if you want a different handguard.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Those JP handguards require the part that screws onto the upper receiver to be loctited into place with so much loctite that you would probably never get it off without destroying something. You'd be betzer off selling the whole upper receiver group and buying something else if you want a different handguard.

Loctite is a non issue in any amount using proper removal procedures with heat, but if you start cranking and beating on it like a cave man yeah you’re going to fuck something up.

 

[MontanaMan]

Nothing wrong with what you have with an upgraded optic.

If you want to do a budget build, do it as another rifle..............use a PSA upper or lower or both; hard to beat for the price, even if you build from components, you likely won't do it for less.

PSA has raised their game in the last 3 years or so, IMO.

MM

 

[acudaowner]

why sell a good guy just make a little room and buy another good gun ,if one gun is a good thing then 300 of them must be like heaven .buy more guns and ammo sell the kids ...

 

[Merle]

Loctite is a non issue in any amount using proper removal procedures with heat, but if you start cranking and beating on it like a cave man yeah you’re going to fuck something up.

I don't know how comfortable I'd be heating up aluminum enough to soften up red loctite. I had one of those JP handguards back in the day and I somewhat remember the instructions mentioning it's damned near permanent once that piece that screws to the upper receiver is installed. I wouldn't fuck with it if I was the op.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

It's not that permanent and JP knows that too, in their instructions they even mention how to remove the outer receiver nut, spoiler alert it involves a torch and a strap wrench.

"To remove the outer nut after the thread locker cures, you must remove the outer receiver extension nut to reconfigure
the rifle, use a propane torch to heat the outer nut and use a strap wrench to remove the nut. The Loctite 271 will degrade
to a white powder at about 400-450˚ F."

https://www.jprifles.com/instructions/Rifle/JPHG.pdf

 

[Merle]

Cool. You following that OP? All you need is a propane torch and a strap wrench. Let us know how your handguard swap turns out!

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I've done it on a Lancer handguard, it's not a big deal.

 

[DEEPCREEKTAC]

Cool. You following that OP? All you need is a propane torch and a strap wrench. Let us know how your handguard swap turns out!

Haha, you won’t catch me trying that.

Really, caught myself by off my game because I should’ve known the muzzle and gasblock would need to be removed for a new handguard.
I will most likely throw on a different scope and buy some rails to outfit the handguard with some accessories.

 

[msgriff]

Regarding Loctite red releasing, anodized aluminum starts to "craze" at 320° f. Would 400° - 450° (Loctite says 500°) be an issue for a short period of time on an AR? Under most conditions, probably not. But it is worth pointing out, as some can go overboard with both time and temp.