Building a custom bolt action rifle

[houndog]

So, I'm almost embarrassed to post this question, but after an admittedly quick search I couldn't really find anything on this. I currently own a couple of very nice production bolt action rifles, which I plan to continue to shoot. However, eventually I hope to step up to a custom rifle - particularly since I'm a southpaw and would love to have a left handed gun. I might even begin to start looking for parts now - particularly if I can find something used through this forum. However, I am pretty ignorant about this whole process. So I have a couple of questions, some of which may be pretty dumb.

1. I assume the major components I'm going to need to eventually have someone assemble a rifle are the following:

(a) an action

(b) a barrel

(c) a trigger

(d) a chassis/stock

(e) muzzle brake

Have I left anything out?

2. How do I insure chassis and action and chassis and barrel will work together? Are most custom action similar to a Remington 700 action and so that stocks inlet for that action will work? Do I need to contact each mfg. individually? Same with barrels. Do I have to worry about different barrel profiles?

3. Do I also have to worry about how trigger and action mate up? Again, are most actions built to be similar to Remington 700 so you have a wide choice of triggers?

4. Can I change caliber simply by changing barrel and bolt? So if a burn through a 6.5CM barrel and decide I want to try another caliber, can I just have someone rebarrel and change the bolt, or will I need a new action as well?

5. Assuming I want to assemble all the parts myself and get an Impact Precision or Defiance action and a pre-fit barrel, how easy is the barrel install? Is this something I could do myself, or should I still get a competent gunsmith to put this together - keeping in mind that this will be my first time trying to assemble a precision rifle?

The goal is to be able to choose top quality components and personalize my build, but also to potentially pick up some of these components used rather than simply going to a top gunsmith and saying "build me a rifle" using all new parts.

 

[Supersubes]

1. That about covers it. Bottom metal if suing a stock, Magazines, mounts/rings, scope, etc.

2.unless you’re way off the beaten path, it’s pretty easy to determine this. The stock makers usually know, or will cut the stock as a custom order.

3. Ask the action maker, but normally it’s straight forward on Remington clone components.

4. Yes, within reason. The action needs to support the cartridge you want to switch too. Again, unless you’re going way off the beaten path, a barrel/bolt/magazine switch should do it.

5. Very easy as long as you have the tools, which are straight forward. Barrel vice, action wrench appropriate for your action, and a torque wrench.

 

[jcmullis2]

Pick the action, stock and trigger you like. Make sure the stock and trigger are for the action.
yes you can change to some different chamberings by changing barrels and bolts others you can’t. If you can find a used barreled action you want you can tighten the screws to drop it in a stock. If you buy a new action, barrel and trigger from Altus they’ll assemble them for about $30.

 

[houndog]

Great thanks. This is helpful.

Supersubes - not sure what you mean by "bottom metal". I assume that's where mag goes. Do I have a choice of mags regardless of action if I'm building my own? (I suspect not). Would like to get something that's not outrageously expensive.

I do seem to recall another thread where poster was claiming that he couldn't find the "bottom metal" he wanted. Don't want to have a couple of grand invested in this rifle and then not be able to get a single part.

 

[gnochi]

Do I have a choice of mags regardless of action if I'm building my own? (I suspect not). Would like to get something that's not outrageously

Sort of. You’ll need to make sure the action is compatible with the bottom metal is compatible with the magazines.

With very very limited exception, just get an insert-reputable-company-here “M5 short action bottom metal” - I like Hawkins Precision but there are other options - and either MDT or Accurate Mag AICS magazines.

By the questions you’re asking, you don’t want to deal with the hassle of going with anything else.

 

[Maxduty]

Find a gun builder and talk to them first. They can recommend the parts that fit your idea and budget. And they can likley get the parts for a deeper discount than you can purchase them for.

 

[SonicBurlap]

First you should determine what purpose your rifle will have, i.e. hunting, PRS competition, benchrest, plinking, do it all. Then you should determine what your budget is, whether you already have glass and rings, or whether you need to include them in the budget, same goes for eventual bipod, monopod, tripod, or any kind of ARCA rail/equipment .
What caliber you want, which as you probably know determines whether you want a short action, or a long action. If you want to be able to change barrels and calibers frequently, i.e. use of a barrel nut system, or whether you want a more permanent solution with just the pre-fit installed directly into the action with the use of an action wrench.
The type of action (short/long) will also help decide what type of stock/chassis you are looking at. Most don't bed their chassis, while most bed their stocks unless they have a mini chassis as some of the Manners PRS do.
You also need to decide what type of magazines you want to use, i.e. AW, or AICS which are very popular for short action, this will determine what cut your action needs. Do you want your action do be push feed, or controlled round feed? Do you want a bayonet style bolt assembly for easy disassembly, or not? Do you want a floating bolt head? Interchangeable bolt heads so you can switch from standard calibers to .223, or to Magnum calibers? Fluted bolt, or no fluting? What type of extractor, and what type of ejector? Do you want a gas shield? Integral recoil lug, or pinned recoil lug? Integral bolt handle, or exchangeable bolt handle? All of those are things to consider to make sure you get the action that best fits your wants, needs, and purpose.

With the stock/chassis if you are going with a Remington 700 footprint custom action you've got a wide selection of options. Generally the more adjustment options the more desirable they are, and the more they will cost, especially the folders, the KRG Bravo, and some of the MDT chassis being exceptions to that rule as they combine customization options with affordability.
In regards to trigger most Remington 700 clone actions have side mounted bolt stops in the receiver, so you won't need a trigger with the Remington style bolt release.
Your purpose will help you decide whether you want a cheaper all steel barrel especially if you are planning on shooting out barrel after barrel in competition, or whether you might want a pricier but lighter carbon fiber barrel. If you are hiking mountains up and down you might want lighter, if you are moving through brush you might want a shorter barrel. If you shoot benchrest, or competition you might want a heavier barrel and weights for stability and balance, and to help with recoil.

In regards to muzzle brakes, do you intend to get a suppressor sometime later then you might want to consider a key mount system, if not then I'd still go for a self-timing brake you can install, or un-install yourself without involving a gunsmith. If you are planning on primarily going hunting a suppressor might be the better option although they won't necessarily do much for recoil.

All of those are things to consider, I'm sure other members can add a few I might have forgotten to mention. If you have a custom builder build it for you they will be a great resource with a price, if you are going to build it yourself I would post what plan you come up with and ask questions. If you have a gunsmith perform part of your build you can ask them questions as well.

 

[houndog]

Wow, thanks for the thorough answer. Didn't even realize there were so many choices/things to think about.

My background:

Been shooting for 25+ years, but never competitively. Done a ton of plinking and a fair amount of positional shooting (prone, sitting, standing) mostly with AR's. Done a fair amount of pistol shooting and I'm a decent shot, but not accurate enough to really be competitive at bullseye or fast enough for steel challenge type stuff. Now that I'm retired might try some steel matches just for fun.

Started shooting trap a couple of years ago - again primarily for fun.

As far as precision shooting I do have a couple of factory bolt actions (Sig SSG 3000, Tikka CRT in a XLR chassis) and have done some long range shooting (out to 1000 yards). My gun club has targets out to 600 yards, and finding a place where I can shoot out to 1000 really won't be a problem.

Would really like to get into some PRS/NRL shooting. I'm in Colorado now, so it looks like there are a bunch of big matches within driving distance in Colorado and Utah. Since I'm a lefty, would be really nice to run a left handed bolt, particularly for any stage that's timed. That's really why I'm thinking of getting another rifle.

Don't have a suppressor yet, so for now I'm just going to get a muzzle brake. Have an Area 419 muzzle brake on my Tikka, and would get another one or a Little Bastard. I'm not really recoil sensitive, but like the muzzle brake since I'm almost always shooting without a spotter, so it helps being able to see my misses. The Tikka is in 6.5CM, so probably going to stick with that caliber for now. For chassis, not sure I really need a folder. KRG Bravo looks pretty interesting, but don't have any trigger time behind one. Like my XLR, so that's another way to go. Probably won't get a more traditional rifle stock.

With respect to type of action - I'm really at a loss. Push feed? Controlled round feed? Fluted or no fluting? Don't really know enough to make a choice, although the option to switch to .223 barrel and bolt would be nice for cheap practice.

Again, the goal is to purchase various component parts over time (used if I can find them) and assemble myself, so I'm leaning to Impact Precision or Defiance actions where this would be a possibility. Would be willing to spend a fair amount on the action, since that's really the heart of the rifle and should be good for thousands of rounds. Probably going to go with a Bartlein or Proof Research barrel - somewhere between 20-26". This is really something I see as having a 12-18 month time line, so I can wait for various parts to become available. In the meantime I can start trying to practice shooting using some of the weird/challenging positions that PRS seems to require, since I have no real experience with this.

 

[SonicBurlap]

With this info out there you'll be able to get much better advice now since it seems your primary interest for this new custom build is PRS/NRL competitions. Lots of PRS shooters on this forum you might be able to hook up with. I'm also located in Colorado but I only shoot private matches with some of my friends from my time in the service, so not really on a highly competitive level. Since you already own a Tikka my advice to you would be to attend a few of the PRS matches and use what you currently have to get a feel for what you really want. Ask other competitors for advice, find out what works for them. what gear they use, ask them if they might let you handle their equipment, some will even let you shoot it. Getting that info first hand will keep you from making a huge investment into something that might turn out not quite what you might ultimately want.

Bison Tactical in Boulder has a listing of matches in Colorado on their blog, and they keep it fairly current as another source besides the Hide of course:

Blog - Bison Tactical

Take a look here on how to setup your blog page: http://docs.uxthemes.com/article/243-how-to-setup-your-blog-page

www.bisontactical.com

There are also some matches at the NRA Whittington Center in Raton, NM just across the state border from Trinidad, CO.

The XLR is a fine chassis and should do just fine for you. Most rifles used at PRS are push feed these days, although controlled round feed versus push feed really is a personal preference as both have pros and cons. To explain check out this video:


Fluted bolt vs. non-fluted is also a personal preference, although most custom actions these days have fluted bolts. It is mostly an aesthetic thing but in dusty windy conditions, or in icy conditions it can give you a little more traction.

Another option I failed to mention in my previous post is single stage, or dual stage trigger. Plenty of options for dual stage have now hit the market by good companies like TriggerTech and Bix'n Andy. It all boils down to personal preference again. The TriggerTech Diamond seems to be the prevalent trigger in use at the PRS matches I have seen, although new equipment is adopted in that community quite rapidly if it works.

Bartlein, or PROOF Research barrels are excellent options and for competition 26" and 24" barrels seem to be the most commonly used. Krieger and Criterion barrels are also excellent choices.

My current build has been nearly a year and a half in the making now, partially due to COVID, and I chose what I did as a do it all that will mostly see range time. I wanted to be able to use pre-fits with the ability to switch calibers and do it all myself, an integral recoil lug, and the ability to positively control extraction and have a choice of whether I wanted to fling the extracted cartridge into the botanics, or have it drop gently into my hand. A great single stqge trigger that was adjustable but not quite in the 8oz. or below category. A barrel with a somewhat larger contour but not so front end heavy that it completely throws off the balance.

What I ended up with is a Zermatt Arms TL3 Short Action with standard bolt head, DLC finished with a 24" PROOF Research carbon fiber barrel Sendero contour in 6.5 Creedmoor, muzzle and chamber portion cerakoted matte black, nitrided PVA "Jet Blast" muzzle brake, in a KRG Bravo chassis with adjustable buttplate, weights, spigot mount, and ARCA rail added, and a TriggerTech Special set to 1.4lbs and timed to the cocking piece by Zermatt Arms. I've also got a Magnum bolt head in case I want to upgrade to 6.5 PRC at some time.

All that is based on personal preference, many in the PRS community have switched to 6mm Creedmoor and swear by it, but for what I wanted as a do it all the 6.5 Creedmoor is a little less vulnerable to wind, and more applicable for hunting if I want to do so.

As you can see there are really not many rights, or wrongs; just what works best for what your intended purpose is and what doesn't and the huge factor of personal preference.

PS For your specific purpose check out this section of Sniper's Hide and the others regarding competition announcements:

Competition Shooting Talk

Precision Rifle Competition Discussion, Talk NRL, PRS, or any other series or league out there.

www.snipershide.com

 

[houndog]

Thanks, really great info. Very helpful.

On the trigger, I know Triggertech seem to be pretty popular. I definitely have more time on two stage triggers, as I'm kind of a trigger wh*re and have several AR's set up with either LaRue or Geissele triggers, although I shoot the one AR I have with a single stage trigger just as well.. Same for my pistols - most have had some trigger work done.

As far as caliber, I know most of the PRS guys are now shooting some type of 6mm round, but I already have a rifle in 6.5CM and like the availability of high quality factory ammo.

Good idea shooting a couple of matches with my Tikka. With factory ammo, the gun is definitely capable of 2/3" 5 shot groups at 100, although manipulating the bolt as a lefty will definitely slow me down. But then I'm really not going to be competitive at first anyway.

BTW - where are you in CO? I recently moved to Gunnison, so Raton is probably a 4-4.5 hr. drive.

 

[SonicBurlap]

I'm in the front range closest bigger town is Colorado Springs. Looks like either way you go for matches you'll have some driving to do. That lefty thing will get easier once you know exactly what type of action you want and you can get your custom set up for left hand with left, or right side ejection port, whichever you prefer. By the way when you choose your action you can also look at what materials are used for action and bolt, some use all stainless 416 steel, some machine the action out of stainless and the bolt out of CroMoly. What manufacturer with which materials you choose is personal preference again. Don't worry about "placing" anywhere, participation would be at this point just for fun and experience, so you can see what's out there, and what works for different shooters. Also to make connections and network, get to to see, feel and compare different actions so you can build an informed opinion on what you might like.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Consider this.

Building a custom rifle from scratch is a daunting task, and by specifying particular components, you may be making beginner mistakes that will probably need a Gunsmith's assistance to resolve. Designing a rifle from scratch is not a game of Tinker Toys or a Lego model. Your first build will likely require specialized tools./tooling, and that sort of ting is only really affordable when spaced out over a succession of builds. This is one part I leave up to the people who have those tools and know how to use them.

I found that out when I took up assembling AR's (which is quite different from designing and building my first bolt gun). I define building as doing something that requires expert machining; and that which doesn't, I call assembling. I assemble.

So, add a gunsmith to your list.

First, to confirm the compatibility of your components before they are assembled.

Then, to advise on the assembly process; it's not just all screwing things onto place. Maybe you can combine your personal choices with the Smith's wisdom and build a better mousetrap.

Maybe you can get a quote to do the build, and dicker about what components get used and who obtains them. At least, you'll get a price you'll need to beat bore doing it all yourself; and you might find that you can't, and that the gunsmith is both the wisest, and in the long run, most affordable choice. At the very least, bringing in the Gunsmith at the beginning can assure his familiarity with your implement before any issues arise, and acquaint you better with the potential hidden costs.. It's similar to the process I call benchmarking, getting a close look at things when they're all new and playing with each other nicely.

The very questions you are asking suggest this path. At least you can ask good questions and get good answers. That's the point where I decide if I'm dealing with the right gunsmith.

It's also a wise move to establish a relationship with a gunsmith before you need their services. Where you're headed, knowing a good gunsmith from the outset is going to be a genuine asset. When I talk with a gunsmith, I know there's only one professional in the room, and that it's not me.

I only ever designed one gun, it was a simple modification to a factory gun, and there were four of them in the mix. I had the advantage of having a friend who was also an outstanding gunsmith. It added valuable dimension to the process, avoided several errors, saved our project at a crucial point, and cemented some relationships I still cherish two decades later.

For my purposes and assets; finding good/affordable components, and evading avoidable complications is a must.

What I would do in a similar situation is find that gunsmith, define my application, voice my preferences (maybe a chambering, maybe not), be up front about what I can afford to build and operate, and see what the gunsmith comes up with. I can practically guarantee that the outcome will be the best I can afford. I can also probably guarantee that I will learn things about what direction my future guns will evolve into. The gun will be your creation, and professionally sound as well.

So..., consider this.

Greg

 

[SonicBurlap]

Whether you need a gunsmith to install a prefit barrel for you, or to help you pick the right stock, or chassis, or to bed it for you is something you must decide. You know better than anyone else what your skills, and abilities are in regards to gunsmithing. A gunsmith, especially a custom rifle gunsmith is a great, but sometimes pricey option, however the results that come from a reputable and experienced gunsmith are usually consistent and without risk. There's no shame in admitting it if you need someone to help you through this process, better to be safe than sorry. That said prefits make the barrel installation process easier.

 

[houndog]

Greg and Sonic, both make really good points. I do need to be honest about my capabilities, which I admit are limited. I've put together a half dozen AR lowers, upgraded/swapped out triggers on some pistols, installed different sights on one of my Glocks, etc. but as Greg points out that's just assembling parts. What I was hoping was that if I go with a very high quality action, (where dimensions are identical down to .001" between actions) and a pre-fit barrel I can basically assemble a high quality bolt action rifle on my own. But I agree that I don't know what I don't know. That's one of the reasons I started this thread. Don't want to drop $200 on a trigger, only to find that its not compatible with my action. Or $700 on a stock and then discover my barrel profile doesn't work with it. And I definitely don't have the skill or the equipment to do anything that requires machining.

Looks like I need to do a bunch more research to really understand the components, the options and how everything goes together.

And I've found a couple of nice ranges within 3-5 hrs of me that hold PRS type competitions and even offer intro courses to long range shooting. I'm going to try to spend the next 6-9 months with my Tikka working on my proficiency and maybe taking a class so I can start with decent fundamentals. So for now it's probably better to spend my money on ammo, range fees, and maybe a course.

Might also look into the middle ground between a factory rifle and assembling my own custom and see if I can pick up a used LH custom from the PX. When I watch PRS videos and see how these rifles get banged around I'd almost prefer a gun that's pre-dinged so I don't feel guilty the first time a wack it on a barricade. And once I get a pretty good idea of what action, caliber, chassis, trigger, etc. I want I might be able to find a used rifle that's pretty close to my ideal if I'm patient enough.

 

[Supersubes]

Don’t overthink it. You have the experience needed to do this. Put a list of parts together and throw them on this thread. The manufacturers have done the hard stuff for you already.

 

[SonicBurlap]

Greg and Sonic, both make really good points. I do need to be honest about my capabilities, which I admit are limited. I've put together a half dozen AR lowers, upgraded/swapped out triggers on some pistols, installed different sights on one of my Glocks, etc. but as Greg points out that's just assembling parts. What I was hoping was that if I go with a very high quality action, (where dimensions are identical down to .001" between actions) and a pre-fit barrel I can basically assemble a high quality bolt action rifle on my own. But I agree that I don't know what I don't know. That's one of the reasons I started this thread. Don't want to drop $200 on a trigger, only to find that its not compatible with my action. Or $700 on a stock and then discover my barrel profile doesn't work with it. And I definitely don't have the skill or the equipment to do anything that requires machining.

Looks like I need to do a bunch more research to really understand the components, the options and how everything goes together.

And I've found a couple of nice ranges within 3-5 hrs of me that hold PRS type competitions and even offer intro courses to long range shooting. I'm going to try to spend the next 6-9 months with my Tikka working on my proficiency and maybe taking a class so I can start with decent fundamentals. So for now it's probably better to spend my money on ammo, range fees, and maybe a course.

Might also look into the middle ground between a factory rifle and assembling my own custom and see if I can pick up a used LH custom from the PX. When I watch PRS videos and see how these rifles get banged around I'd almost prefer a gun that's pre-dinged so I don't feel guilty the first time a wack it on a barricade. And once I get a pretty good idea of what action, caliber, chassis, trigger, etc. I want I might be able to find a used rifle that's pretty close to my ideal if I'm patient enough.

Taking a course to become solid on the fundamentals is never wrong, even if just to check what you are currently doing. There is always something new to
learn but the key to accuracy is consistency, and the goal is to consistently do it right. If nothing else taking a class will help build your confidence in your capabilities. Attend some matches, make contacts, talk to people and see what they use, and what they recommend. Pretty soon you'll have an idea of what you might want in that special rig. Another option in between Tikkas and Bergaras and a custom action, are some of the offerings like the Badrock Southfork with a Defiance action (also available in a left hand configuration), or a Seekins Havak those rifles are production level but with a level of attention as can be expected of a custom build on budget level pricing.
If you decide to do your own build at some point as Supersubes said, the manufacturers will let you know what fits, they know what contour barrel fits their chassis barrel channel, if not ,most barrel manufacturers have profile schematics you can download and send to the chassis/stock manufacturer to ask. Triggers usually list the model rifles they work with, and a quick e-mail can resolve any doubts as well. I have very few parts I ever ended up buying and not being able to use them, and those few I usually ended up selling in short order with minimal loss. Some manufacturers like Zermatt Arms will even time your trigger to your action for you if you send it in when you purchase the action.

 

[Senor_Barney]

Can someone give $0.02 on "How to select barrel length and twist?"

Not to hijack the thread, but I didn't see anywhere in the responses about and I'd rather include in this post rather than start a new thread.

For those that will just shoot factory ammo and are coming from factory rifles, what is the order of operations for selecting a barrel?

Option A: Buy factory ammo...then go and buy several ($400-700) pre-fit barrels with several lengths and twists and see which will shoot it?​

​

Option B: Order one pre-fit in a "standard" length and twist for the caliber (i.e. 22-26in for 7mm-08 @ 1:9) then buy several boxes of factory ammo and see what works?​

I am also getting into precision shooting from prone at the range (no hunting) and I don't intend to handload yet...but both options above seem like pretty pricy gambles with no real way to ensure results. Do I just mimic what all the factory rifles tend to use and start there?

Any and all advise on "What you should know, track, decide, before I also go about buying pre-fits" for my recently acquired Bighorn Origin.

 

[gnochi]

Can someone give $0.02 on "How to select barrel length and twist?"

Not to hijack the thread, but I didn't see anywhere in the responses about and I'd rather include in this post rather than start a new thread.

For those that will just shoot factory ammo and are coming from factory rifles, what is the order of operations for selecting a barrel?

Option A: Buy factory ammo...then go and buy several ($400-700) pre-fit barrels with several lengths and twists and see which will shoot it?​

​

Option B: Order one pre-fit in a "standard" length and twist for the caliber (i.e. 22-26in for 7mm-08 @ 1:9) then buy several boxes of factory ammo and see what works?​

I am also getting into precision shooting from prone at the range (no hunting) and I don't intend to handload yet...but both options above seem like pretty pricy gambles with no real way to ensure results. Do I just mimic what all the factory rifles tend to use and start there?

Any and all advise on "What you should know, track, decide, before I also go about buying pre-fits" for my recently acquired Bighorn Origin.

Option B is much cheaper, and is the way things is usually done. And hey, with tuners it’s even easier

Length limits
16.5in at the low end, what fits in your safe at the high end.

Length
Within that spectrum, there are really only a few values you should even think about, unless you want to get stuck in endless runaround. It’s ~100fps difference in muzzle velocity for every 4 inches barrel length for many cartridges, just for quick scaling.

• 18”: hunting
• 22”: hybrid hunting+range
• (24”: most target-use non-magnums test on this length barrel so box velocity will be close)
• 26”: primarily range use
• 30”: big cartridge that you want to squeeze the hairy edge of speed out of

Profile
Again, lots of choices, but a handful of good ones

• Light sporter: hunting only (will walk as it heats up)
• Bartlein 3B or equivalent: hybrid hunting+range (heaviest you want to carry)
• M24: range use only (doesn’t require special chassis/etc. cutouts)

Twist
In general, unless you care to do a ton of research on exactly what twist you should use for a specific bullet, if you’re shooting factory ammo get the tightest available factory twist rate (since around here we typically use heavy-for-caliber bullets). Tighter than that and you won’t be able to shoot lightweight jacketed bullets or they blow up.