Sidearms & Scatterguns Building a Gamer Glock

Rerun7

Furious George
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Minuteman
  • Feb 18, 2017
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    Fayetteville, Arkansas
    I’m going to build out a G17 that I can use for competitions. I’ve got a Zev slide on the way cut for a red dot and a new barrel.

    Where I’m not finding a ton of info is what internals provide the best bang for the buck?

    The comps I’ll be running this in are run and guns so I need to keep it reliable when it gets dirty, wet, etc. with that in mind I’m probably going to keep the stock trigger. I already run a (-) connector and I’ll do some polishing of the internals.

    What about tungsten guiderods, lighter recoil springs, etc? Where would you start and what’s going to make an actual difference.
     
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    Having been down this road multiple times…. A stock G34 or g17 or a G45 my new favorite ❤️ with an optic and a magwell will do you just fine.

    I would recommend keeping it stock inside.

    Get a ranger proof trigger shoe for it
    And it’ll go bang everytime

    You start putting comps on. lightening rods and springs and triggers and you start having ammo and light strike issues

    Just my 2 cents.
     

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    The comps I’ll be running this in are run and guns
    Read the rulebook so you don't waste money on mods that will put you in a division where the pistol will be non-competitive

    What about tungsten guiderods, lighter recoil springs, etc? Where would you start and what’s going to make an actual difference.
    Leave all that shit stock.

    Seriously, how good of a handgun shooter are you? No seriously, if you were to go to a USPSA match where would you land in the results in either production or carry optics divisions?

    Until you're running with the A and M class guys, none of the mods you've mentioned here will matter dick.
     
    I short USPSA for a while. I started with a G22 RTF2. Ended up with a G24 slide, which meant new guide rod, spring, etc.

    No tungsten, but I did go slightly heavier on the recoil spring. I don’t remember the weight of it.

    I put a Pyramid trigger in it.

    Never once did I have an issue with that trigger and I put thousands of rounds through that gun. I would go Pyramid again without any hesitation.
     
    What competition? Rules matter.
    Run and guns. There are no rules on gear modifications for classes. It’s run whatever you’re willing to carry over a 10k course and doesn’t crap out when it gets dragged through the mud.

    Seriously, how good of a handgun shooter are you?
    As mentioned above and in my OP, I’m not shooting USPSA or IDPA.

    I’m a good shooter. In the 7 competitions before my most recent one I finished 1st in 5 of them and 2nd in the other two. I was the top overall shooter in a few and not out of the top 5 in any of them. Around 100 competitors on average, so I can shoot a little bit….

    I’m running a very lightly modified G17. In the last comp I placed 5th and there were a few guys running more tricked out handguns and they shot really well. I admittedly was a little off my normal pace but just wanting to up-level it a bit because for me, those kind of changes can make a difference.

    Let’s get past the “well, how big a boy are ya?” crap 😜

    Plus, it’s fun building new guns so there’s that.
     
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    The point went the fuck over your head.

    But that's OK. I've come to expect nothing less from this place.
    You’re right. Forget everything I said. None of those comp wins I mentioned matter. I just suck and need more practice.

    Maybe one of you USPSA gurus with the beer gut and super cool jerseys could teach me where I went wrong in life.

    Since you obviously know me better than I do please go ahead and enlighten me on what I need to do. Let’s already assume I buy ammo, dry fire practice, structured range time and have taken training.

    The floor is yours boomer…
     
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    I just recently picked up a gen 5 g17 and ran it through its paces. The longer guide rod and spring assembly of the gen 5 definitely acts and tracks different than my gen 4 g34 setup. In order to get the g17 to run and track like my gen4 g34, I made a .240" spacer to go on the guide rod before the 11lb ISMI recoil spring. This puts the installed spring length at gen 1-4 specs. For what it's worth, the g17 runs a tad flatter with 135gr pills, and the g34 runs flatter with 125s.
     
    I’m thinking a tungsten guide rod and a 15lb spring. From what I’ve been researching that may be a good balance of flattening the slide dip and keeping reliability with factory loads.

    I’m not shooting any +p ammo in this gun so the 17lb spring may be a little overkill.

    Does changing to a slightly lower recoil spring necessitate any changes in the other springs or will that not be enough change to matter?
     
    I’m thinking a tungsten guide rod and a 15lb spring. From what I’ve been researching that may be a good balance of flattening the slide dip and keeping reliability with factory loads.

    I’m not shooting any +p ammo in this gun so the 17lb spring may be a little overkill.

    Does changing to a slightly lower recoil spring necessitate any changes in the other springs or will that not be enough change to matter?
    Don't decide on the recoil spring and rod until you decide on compensator or not. A 2 port comp is great, but needs a lighter spring to function. Best to install comp, try the spring you got and then decide how to adjust.
     
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    Be wary about how light of a recoil spring you run on the Glock platform. The recoil spring force and striker spring force oppose each other. Running a stock or extra power striker spring with too light of a recoil spring can let the trigger stroke pull the slide out of battery.

    I run a Wolff 4lb striker spring with a lightened striker along with an 11lb ISMI recoil spring on my gen 4 and earlier full size Glock 9mms. I have no ignition problems with standard non-magnum pistol primers. An 11lb ISMI spring in a full size gen 5 won't provide enough force to reliably keep the slide in battery, so run a .240" spacer on the guide rod to duplicate gen 1-4 recoil spring installed lengths and you won't have any issues.
     
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    Lighten up Francis, I’m not coming to meet up with you in some sort of weird internet showdown.

    You’ve already derailed my thread with your trolling. Contribute something useful or go back to ironing another patch on your Jersey.
     
    I like the metal guide rods just because plastic seems like a failure point. With that said I only have 1 metal guide rod because I broke a cheap one and figured why not. The rest of my Glocks all still run the factory springs and guide rods.

    The one Glock that has the metal guide rod I put a heavier spring in when I mounted a delta point. Helped the impulse a little. Not mind blowing. Same thing with my STI 2011, playing with the springs helped a little but honestly not a huge improvement.

    Glock upgrades for me are to undercut trigger guard, open up the inside of the trigger guard, Either overwatch trigger shoe, connector, polish internals, set screw at back of trigger housing to reduce overtravel or timney competition, and either stipple, grip tape, or epoxy carbide the grip.

    I used to be a top 20% finisher in the local matches. NOT A PRO but that’s my advice

    And the best advice. Don’t waste a pile of money upgrading a Glock. Poor return on investment. I started playing with the cz p10 series and I much prefer it over my semi built Glock. There are so many factory guns out now that are already optics ready, have way better triggers than even upgraded glock triggers and don’t need a bunch of parts and upgrades.

    Vp9, sig p320, walther pdp, cz p10, just to name a few.
     
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    Yeah, my primary change was to try out a red dot. Since I already have my mostly stock g17 I use in comps I decided just to get a new slide so I could also swap back to the oem slide anytime I want it for serious use.

    It’s also past time to replace the stock guide rod which got me researching the heavier options which then led to looking at an uncaptured rod so I could play with spring weights, etc.
     
    Stainless steel or tungston guide rod as close to same poundage as stock spring uncaptured. Optic may cause you to drop to a lighter spring That will reduce your muzzle flip to a degree. Glock trigger dot com Sells a few levels of triggers. The skimmer trigger is fantastic uses all OEM parts but are polished and tuned. Polishing the trigger bar with aluminum wheel polish works ok also. Be cautious of aftermarket parts inside the slide, that will be the root of fail to eject/extract/light strikes. Put OEM parts in the aftermarket slide. Polish the firing pin safety. Those mods really only help with perceived trigger pull. That will be a non-issue if you get a good aftermarket trigger. Magwells are personal preference some of mine have them some dont. Skate board tape is great if you hate your shirts. Talon grit tape works good not as aggressive. Petzel liquid chalk is almost like velcro. Rock climbers use it. 13.00 a tube. goes on your hands no residue on the gun. Gun locks in solid and stays put for multiple shot strings and mags wont slip out of sweaty hands. Buy a few extra slide stops and have an extra recoil spring you will be happy in the long run.
     
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