Re: Buy once cry once: Totally disagree
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mahk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sweetbeard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">lol you guys are gear tards. nobody goes " all in " when starting out in something.
when you bought your TV did you buy the MOST EXPENSIVE to have the BEST
when you bought your car did you buy the fastest you could find?</div></div>
Not a valid comparison. A rifle is a tool meant to do a job, and that job is to put holes in things at distance as accurately as possible. If your hobby was racing cars, yes, you should buy the absolute fastest car you can afford if you want to perform competitively. A TV is not something you use, it's something you sit passively and watch. You don't need it to perform, and it can't do anything to aid in your performance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes you need to be able to trust your gear when starting out...
I did learn that, I had a savage 10fp and falcon menace.. I decided I couldn't trust my scope and upgraded.
but that was a lesson worth learning, did I need $1200 optics on my first .308? hells to the no, especially since it is the first time I shot past 500yds outside USMC an irons....
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You could have learned that lesson without throwing money in the trash had you been more patient and attentive. A wiser man would have searched the forums and realized that the Falcon Menace has a track record of unreliability, then waited until he could afford something better. Let fools make mistakes for you.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">but now I know better what I want and what I need. making everyone who reads this think they need spendy optics when a $200 10x busnell and savage might meet there needs out to 800yds is supremely gearwhorish and unhelpfull.
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I've never once seen someone say "Oh, you've got to have a S&B or USO scope for that." When someone says they need a scope, the next question is always "What kind of shooting do you do?" and that is the question that brings in the recommendation. The best optics for you are the best optics you can afford. I would LOVE a S&B PMII. Unfortunately, I cannot afford a S&B PMII, so I went with a $1200 IOR. I am extremely pleased with my set up because I did the research and compromised where I could and didn't where I couldn't. I sunk 3k into my first precision rifle setup and have not a single regret.
In this world you tend to notice that people arrive at similar conclusions in gear selection. If you look, you'll notice that the most sought after optics are Premier, USO, Nightforce, and S&B. The most popular stocks are Manners and McMillan. The most popular rifles are Remingtons and Savages. Why? It's because they have a track record of success and are all proven. If you can afford good shit, go for it, because you're almost guaranteed to end up wanting it once you use it. </div></div>
+1000
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MuleHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think it depends on your priorities what you can afford. Some of us drive nicer cars because we place a greater value on that. I choose to drive cars that are paid for so i can fund my other toys that are higher on my list.
Do the research and seek out reliable gear first. When i started it was with a Remington SPS Tactical because i did the research and it had a record of delivering .5 moa. I put a 10x Bushnell Elite on it because it had a good track record for the $200 scope range. That setup was very capable. Would i start there over again? Absolutely, heck if the economy gets bad enough i take comfort in knowing that if i had to i could always go back to that basic setup and be plenty lethal if not more so now. </div></div>
+ 1000
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sweetbeard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">lol you guys are gear tards. nobody goes " all in " when starting out in something.
when you bought your TV did you buy the MOST EXPENSIVE to have the BEST
when you bought your car did you buy the fastest you could find?
Yes you need to be able to trust your gear when starting out...
I did learn that, I had a savage 10fp and falcon menace.. I decided I couldn't trust my scope and upgraded.
but that was a lesson worth learning, did I need $1200 optics on my first .308? hells to the no, especially since it is the first time I shot past 500yds outside USMC an irons....
but now I know better what I want and what I need. making everyone who reads this think they need spendy optics when a $200 10x busnell and savage might meet there needs out to 800yds is supremely gearwhorish and unhelpfull.
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i love this lol im red neck but whats this???? lol
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sweetbeard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">did I need $1200 optics on my first .308? hells to the no,</span></span> </div></div>
I got a rem 700 blue printed acc-sd with a B&C m40 stock a bager drop metal and a Timmy trigger 20 moa rail and a Falcon Menace 4.5 x 25 x 50mm 4" sunshade and a Harris bi, and i can walk a sub-moa group all day long. the reason is i did extensive load research. barrel harmonics, in- barrel timing. i have specific powder for a specific projectile, and a load for the areas im shooting. if im going to 3-500 yards i shoot a 178 amax if im going 500-800 i shoot a 168 amax if im going to 800+ i have a 168 amax.
i shoot under a 1/2 at 100 under 1 at 200 under a 1 1/2 at 300, i start opening up closer to 500. after 500 it goes out the window a little but i have consistently stayed with in MOA to the 750 mark im working on loads after that. at this point i have not made it in the 1k club looking to do that this weekend, ( that's 1k in 2 shots )
mostly because at power my scope does fade and im not the best at seeing and reading cross winds but ill get it, and when my barrel goes to crap, ill get a new one. ill never own a gap. mainly because my wallet wont take the hit and you don't need it if you do your research.
you don't have to buy a corvette off the bat but if you got a pacer give it up.
buy once cry once is not buy once and shoot your self in the head
if your going to get in to long range with a stock 770 and Winchester white box. stay in the tree stand, (although i got a 770 that has been worked over a little and its a nail driver out to 300 yrds 300 win mag too.) but that's not what im getting at.
know what bedding a action is and get it done, know what bedding a rail is and get it done learn how to straight edge a set of rings to check bedding.
learn the math then do the math. don't be pissed because some one says you got to have the top crap. you don't but the crap you got better work or you better learn how to compensate. Kentucky wind-age don't work past 500 yrds consistently, and forget about it if you don't have a consistent load
long range is expensive unfortunately but if you do your math you can make it fun and not a wallet killer.
call bull if you like i don't care don't have to. the people on her i shoot with and i converse with, know making a lesser quality but still good gun is in the load development, and free float. if you cant agree with that buy a gap.
O and get some Hbn 70nm, Hexagonal Boron Nitride. if you don't know about it you need too.
dont mind the chalk lines its when i 1st cut the case.
and its cheaper if you learn how to build your own rifle with the exception of the blueprinting. i did all the work. bedding the stock and rail all the load developing with help from LR-WSM cause out of the gate i was a hand-gunner reloader