Buying Advice needed for 308: Tikka Tac A1 ($1800), Rem 700 Police LTR ($1000), Bergara B-14 HMR ($1000)

colt.45

Private
Minuteman
Nov 25, 2020
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Alabama/Wisconsin
I have chosen these 3 because being a lefty makes options limited. I understand that the Tac A1 is not entirely comparable in price to the following 2, but it comes with a 24" barrel and a muzzle device (when purchased on eurooptic). I've been looking at the Bergaras & Tikkas since the summer and have yet to find any in stock. Thinking of placing a backorder for one of those and just sticking out the wait. The Rem 700 is in stock right now. I would either add weight to the composite HS precision stock it comes with or I would put it into a new one that comes heavy as is (KRG bravo, HS Precison PST, McMillan A5, Grayboe). I've heard the actions are stickier on the Rem 700 compared to the other two, and more or less an inferior gun overall, despite its long service in our military. Is this true? How much does that extra 4" of barrel benefit the 308 cartridge? I understand the m24 was a long action chambered to accept 300 wm as well as 308. Is that the reason the barrel is 24"? Because I don't see Tikka or Bergara offering a 24" barrel on any of their 308s.

What I don't like about going the route of the Rem 700 is that it may cost as much in the end as the Tac A1 came out of the box, and if its truly that much worse then I'd probably wish I had bought the Tikka/Bergara (even if I have to wait 6 months for it) Now to complicate things further, I don't like the idea of an AR style chassis on a bolt gun (Tac A1) because it seems like it would be less ergonomic for working the action. Maybe I'd get used to it? I could find someone to possibly buy the TAc A1 chassis and then drop the action into a nice stock like one I mentioned above, bringing the cost again to roughly $2000 and comparable to a Rem 700 + new stock. If I love the Bergara stock and action, then that's a sweet deal considering I'm out the door for $1000 total (before optics/accesories). I have considered the Tikka CTR ($1000 and same barrel/action as the Tac A1- except its not 24"), which was initially my first choice, but looks like they are not sold in the US. I almost considered traveling to Canada to get one.

Weight: how heavy do you guys like to run your target/competition or non-hunting 308s? I have a 270 now that I am adding weight to because I hate how unpleasant the recoil makes it. The m24 sniper was between 15 & 17 pounds total, but again it was a multicaliber system, does that have anything to do with its weight?

My philosophy of use will be mostly target and the occasional hunt (no I don't care about the weight). Want to get out to 800 yards on steel with factory mid grade ammo (win super x, federal powershok, Remington core-lokt).

(Optics: if anyone knows the good reticles and magnification range for this type of gun, and cares to chime in, my scope budget is 1,500-2,500)
 
Don’t get wrapped up in the ergonomics of a chassis system. They actually allow you to adjust it to you and you will find that the ergonomics of it are better than what used to be a “normal” stock (McMillan, Manners, etc.)
I always tell people to choose the best action for their use. In terms of the quality of actions, the Tikka is superior out of your choice group. The Tac A1 also comes with a very nice two stage trigger, compared to the garbage on the Remmy. The Tac A1 also comes with 10 round, double stacked, magazines. If you are wanting to shoot comps you will appreciate not having to replace the bottom metal on the Remmy and buy AI mags (Adding to your Remmy cost). The only fault I have found with the Tikka is their barrels are notoriously slow. My buddy went from his factory 24” 6.5 creedmoor to an 18” Bartlien and actually gained about 10 feet per second. Minus the velocity issue the Tikka barrels are extremely accurate, I take me 20” 308 out to 900 yards on a regular basis and it’s rather boring on a 14” square piece of steel. I know that’s only 1.5 moa but it’s what is at my range.
good luck with your choice!!
 
I would get Bergara HMR 308 over the LTR. Had both - my LTR was "ok" but you will put money into it to be equal to the factory HMR. I shot my 20" LTR to 800 using 168s, you can farther with 175s. If I had choice, I would go longer than 20" unless mounting suppressor all the time.
 
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If you're at a $2k ceiling

Zermatt Origin $825
PVA or Criterion barrel $4-500
KRG Bravo $400
TT Special $200

Plenty of room to grow into it and you won't be wasting any money if you dump some parts down the road

Scope. Razor geb 2 ebr7c from liberty optics all day long for $1600 and throw it in some seekins or vortex pmr rings
 
Of the 3, I'd recommend the Bergara, though I don't have one. My understanding is they're very accurate, and I like several things about the Remington/Remington clone actions over the Tikka, despite the fact that the Tikkas are always accurate and a good value.

Please take into account my bias: I bought a $349 Tikka 15 years ago, the magazine wouldn't feed out of the box, and Beretta customer service wouldn't fix it, but offered me another plastic magazine for $80. Ok, but I still have a Tikka and it's accurate, the stock is the most ergonomic hunting rifle stock I've owned, and the trigger is great out of the box.

But the Remington is better for handloaded/hot loaded rounds. The Tikka's got the Sako style extractor that's got a clear path through the bolt lug raceway back at the shooter in the case of a catastrophic overload. I've cut Remingtons for the Sako extractor and don't think they're high risk, but it's become a talked about risk, and folks use M16 style pinned extractors mostly now on converted Remingtons since a left-handed shooter who was shooting right-handed was killed by the Sako extractor that blew out with a 300 WSM overload, IIRC. And the Bergara/Remington are heavier, but that's because there's also more meat to the action and the bolt lugs. More safety to me. Particularly if you are going to try to load to a specific velocity, etc.

Also, the Bergara/Remington is going to have better aftermarket support, though Tikka's catching up there. Then the action itself is easier to stick in the lathe and true or perform any machining on, if that matters to you.

Plus there's the price difference.

But like I say, I'm probably biased.
 
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Of the 3, I'd recommend the Bergara, though I don't have one. My understanding is they're very accurate, and I like several things about the Remington/Remington clone actions over the Tikka, despite the fact that the Tikkas are always accurate and a good value.

Please take into account my bias: I bought a $349 Tikka 15 years ago, the magazine wouldn't feed out of the box, and Beretta customer service wouldn't fix it, but offered me another plastic magazine for $80. Ok, but I still have a Tikka and it's accurate, the stock is the most ergonomic hunting rifle stock I've owned, and the trigger is great out of the box.

But the Remington is better for handloaded/hot loaded rounds. The Tikka's got the Sako style extractor that's got a clear path through the bolt lug raceway back at the shooter in the case of a catastrophic overload. I've cut Remingtons for the Sako extractor and don't think they're high risk, but it's become a talked about risk, and folks use M16 style pinned extractors mostly now on converted Remingtons since a left-handed shooter who was shooting right-handed was killed by the Sako extractor that blew out with a 300 WSM overload, IIRC. And the Bergara/Remington are heavier, but that's because there's also more meat to the action and the bolt lugs. More safety to me. Particularly if you are going to try to load to a specific velocity, etc.

Also, the Bergara/Remington is going to have better aftermarket support, though Tikka's catching up there. Then the action itself is easier to stick in the lathe and true or perform any machining on, if that matters to you.

Plus there's the price difference.

But like I say, I'm probably biased.

Except the Tikka doesn't need machining and you can buy shouldered prefits for them. Try that with either of the other two.
 
Echoing the last two posters, the tikka is going to be the best option out of your choices. Machining on the tikkas is top notch and it runs smoother than many custom actions. At your price range an entry level custom build would also be doable but for a factory action the tikka is hard to beat.

Another bonus is that there are plenty of companies that offer shouldered prefits for the tikka if you decide to swap calibers later on.

I also would not rule out the chassis until you use one, they are very adjustable and can be more comfortable than a lot of stocks are because of this. Worst case scenario you can take it off and sell it like you mentioned, then buy a stock of your choice and most likely not be out much money.

Also if you are set on buying a .308 I would look into some different ammo types other than those of which you mentioned. Not to start a caliber debate but the .308 starts to lack once you get out a farther and the ammo choices you mentioned will definitely handicap the round further due to their poor BC numbers.
 
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If you want the best customer service, Bergara. If you want an excellent action and easier upgrades (IMO), Tikka. Screw the Remington.

If you want an excellent action, better barrel than the B-14, and excellent customer service, get a Bergara HMR Pro.
 
I also would do tikka, but I have a hard time justifying close to 2k on the tac a1 as you can start getting into the entry customs for that price (I am not left handed so can’t say which of those are available in lefty. I know pva does left handed bighorn origin barreled actions throw in a trigger and a bravo and you would be around the tikka price. You can probably do that on cheaper custom actions of your choice too (nucleus, tenacity etc). The other route is to choose a lite or sporter and a bravo stock if you can do that around $1k. That is almost always my recommendation but pricing has changed quite a bit.
 
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If you don't like the TacA1 chassis, then why pay the extra for it. Why not find a T3x CTR or Lite which would be cheaper.
Echoing the last two posters, the tikka is going to be the best option out of your choices. Machining on the tikkas is top notch and it runs smoother than many custom actions. At your price range an entry level custom build would also be doable but for a factory action the tikka is hard to beat.

Another bonus is that there are plenty of companies that offer shouldered prefits for the tikka if you decide to swap calibers later on.

I also would not rule out the chassis until you use one, they are very adjustable and can be more comfortable than a lot of stocks are because of this. Worst case scenario you can take it off and sell it like you mentioned, then buy a stock of your choice and most likely not be out much money.

Also if you are set on buying a .308 I would look into some different ammo types other than those of which you mentioned. Not to start a caliber debate but the .308 starts to lack once you get out a farther and the ammo choices you mentioned will definitely handicap the round further due to their poor BC numbers.
I understand. my next caliber will for sure be a 6.5. creedmore. It's just that I'm a novice and I'm building my collection. One needs the "staples" if you will. I've shot 308 and I enjoy it when its not inside a lightweight stock. Mainly though, it comes down to cost of ammunition. I'm brand new to the long range world and will not be getting into reloading anytime soon. I'm just a hobbyist and target shooter. I prefer to buy my ammo in bulk which is another reason I do not require that my accuracy be perfect or even sub MOA. I just like to shoot. I'll hone in my accuracy later on when I have more time and money to dedicate to it. I currently own a budget 270 Ruger American. Its a plenty accurate gun for the money and certainly sub MOA even with the loads mentioned above, usually always purchased at Wal-mart. I can reliably ring 8" plates out to 600 yards with the budget Nikon Prostaff 3-9 on top. This next purchase will be my first "big boy" gun, and with it my first "big boy" scope. I like to base a lot of my gun purchases and philosophy of use on the military classics and current service weapon systems, which is another reason this will more of less be something akin to the m24, or at least subtly resemblant to it. And the other thing is I'm in the midwest and south where its pretty hard to find extended long ranges. Really hard actually. Im talking like you'll probably have to drive a few hours and make a whole day out of it just to get a few hours of ELR practice in. Out west its much different. That said, I don't see myself even having the (convenient) option of shooting past 1000, which is why I'm not worried about getting a 308.
 
If you want the best customer service, Bergara. If you want an excellent action and easier upgrades (IMO), Tikka. Screw the Remington.

If you want an excellent action, better barrel than the B-14, and excellent customer service, get a Bergara HMR Pro.
I did want that one actually, but unfortunately it is not offered in left hand. Only the b-14 is.
 
Here's an option that isn't a chassis, https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-Sporter-LH-308-Win-Rifle.aspx
Longer barrel model is currently out of stock, but maybe eurooptic will know if they're going to be getting more, might be worth a call. I have this in a 595 which is an earlier tikka model. I like the stock, it would be a good option.
when you say "isn't a chassis", does this mean it comes as a barreled action? Because there is a wood stock pictured. Or did you just mean it doesn't feature the Tac a1 chassis?
 
when you say "isn't a chassis", does this mean it comes as a barreled action? Because there is a wood stock pictured. Or did you just mean it doesn't feature the Tac a1 chassis?
It's a wood stock, so it isn't a chassis. :).It's a left handed .308 as you said you were looking for. It comes as pictured, as I said I have one, they're a nice stock. If it is mostly target I'd get a 6.5 CM, shoots flatter, ammo is usually the same or a bit cheaper. If I'm buying ammo for the 308 for targets I'm getting gold medal match 175's. For the CM once things settle down you'll be able to find it cheaper most of the time. The American Gunner 140's are accurate but a bit slow compared to the ELD 140's. If you're going to shoot 1K and beyond the 6.5 will do it better, especially with cheap ammo. It's not uncommon for 308 ammo to start tumbling past 800 yards.