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Gunsmithing CDI pillar length?

Brodie

Private
Minuteman
Jun 24, 2009
24
0
37
Hi,
I'm making up some pillars for my cdi dbm and a short action rem 700 clone, I was wondering if anyone knew the length for the front and rear pillars for proper feeding?
any help is appreciated, thanks
 
Re: CDI pillar length?

I dont have the answer off the top of my head, but is your stock already inlet for it?

I would assume the bottom metal will end up flush with the stock line. I saw a Savage that wasnt, but I think the 700s are.
So inlet it to sit correctly in the stock, then measure up to your receiver with a depth mic or calipers(to do this you'll actually be measuring down to your bottom metal from the action area). Id use the rear end of your calipers.

Aluminum pillars are easily trimmed in a mill after their set in place if needed.

Measure the length you think they need to be, screw them to the action when you bed, and if they protrude out the bottom of the stock a little too much you can mill them down. That way the top surface touching the action is perfect, and you can trim the bottom until your bottom metal is in the correct place.
 
Re: CDI pillar length?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brodie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi,
I'm making up some pillars for my cdi dbm and a short action rem 700 clone, I was wondering if anyone knew the length for the front and rear pillars for proper feeding?
any help is appreciated, thanks </div></div>

There is no specific pillar length for the CDI units like Badger, APA or Surgeon. Here is what you are going to do assuming you have the correct inlet.

Wrap tape around the front of the barrel so it centers its self in the barrel channel. Ensure you have the correct presentation and that the barreled action is not sticking too much out of the stock.

Place your barreled action belly up, place the stock over it. Ensure the barrel and action are seated correctly.

Make up some pillars that are will touch the bottom of the action and protrude .100" up from the bottom of the inlet.

Place the CDI bottom metal in its inlet. Install action screws and get some dummy rounds.

Adjust pillar length in order to achieve these items in this order.

1- Proper feeding, there is enough engagement of the bolt nose on the cartridge head in order to strip it from the magazine.

2- The magazine will insert enough to lock

Your absolute goal is to ensure proper feeding. This will come from enough engagement of the bolt nose stripping the cartridge from the magazine, and the bullet nose riding up the feed ramp into the chamber.

Once you start to get these two things to work for you, next you can fine tune the pillar length by shortening them to bring the nose of the bullet up and also if your lucky, you can start to use the action to limit the travel upwards of the magazine so you can have a nice slop free fit. If you bring the magazine up too high and it wont lock, but your feeding is perfect and the top of the cartridge is not riding on the bottom of the bolt, you can remove some material from the mag release to get the mag to lock in the bottom metal.

Here is what I want.

Proper protrusion into the action of the cartridge

Proper stripping of the cartridge out of the magazine, on the feed ramp into the chamber.

Magazine locks firmly into the action.

No excessive slop upwards (sometimes you have to let this go because you start to bring the trigger guard up into the stock)

The bottom metal looks presentable in the inlet, this is the last priority because of the CDI's construction.


If you have any questions shoot me a call or email.

Mark
 
Re: CDI pillar length?

You're totally right Mark. But I gotta throw this in...

Ive never seen a Badger or Surgeon that didn't run flawlessly at stock line, with either a bedded or unbedded action.

I'd sure hope it feeds/functions at stock line.

Bottom metals that have to be sunk in, or hang out of the stock look bad. I know looks come last but there are more problems than just looks if its not flush with stock line. If its sunk in, you will be chipping your stock like hell, and it will be harder to extract a mag. If it hangs out, your trigger finger will rub on the gaurd, it will hang up on shit, and it wont be as stable/sturdy/strong.

I would inlet it to look good and be flush with the stock line, and if it needs adjusting, adjust the latch like the directions say you may need to.

It will work at stockline, and if it doesn't they make other brands.


The CDI I installed in a 700 I put at stockline in an A4, and it worked after adjustment. It didnt run flawlessly until I called CDI and talked to them about a modification I felt had to be made(it would feed just sitting there, but with upward pressure on the mag it would stop the bolt). They agreed and said people have been doing the mod.

Made the mod and Mike shot the entire New Mexico match with it, and has been using it ever since.
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