Hypothetically, let's say I own a .22lr rifle with a 16in barrel that is threaded 1/2x28. I also own a TBAC Ultra 9 with a 6.5 aperture. I then mount a 223BA brake (the only brake they offer in 1/2x28 that will fit the TBAC Ultra 9) and mount the suppressor to that threaded brake. Would this damage the suppressor or barrel in any way? I am trying to avoid another tax stamp and 9 month weight for a .22lr suppressor but if it must be, it must be. Thanks in advance.
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Centerfire suppressor on rimfire rifle
- Thread starter Srikaleak
- Start date
It should be “safe”. My only reservation is that .22 is dirty as hell. Many/most rimfire cans come apart for cleaning, and it is just stupid how fast they fill with carbon and lead. I would be a little worried about putting so many city miles on my expensive TBAC U9, that’s all.
Unless you can take that can apart for cleaning, don't do it. Dedicated Rimfire cans are made to be taken apart for this reason:
SpectreII baffles after 1k rounds 22 lr.
SpectreII baffles after 1k rounds 22 lr.
I love my little Sparrow. Abut $500 sans stamp. I've had it a long while though. It was the bees knees when I bought it. There are probably newer (better?) designs that may be a little quieter, but I still love this little can. I have several rifles and pistols that wear it. I have a .22 bolt rifle, and with the Gemtech subs it is ridiculously quiet. FFFFFTTT. Like in a Bond movie.
https://silencerco.com/silencers/sparrow-22/
I like it mainly because of the split sleeve around the baffles. This ensures that it never locks up or fails to come apart easily. The baffles are a PITA to hand clean (best in a heated sonic bath), but the rest of it is a synch. I get the whole thing too hot to touch with a heat gun, and then Froglube everything, and wipe the excess off after it cools. I take it apart after shooting, and all the crud just wipes out. Worst cast a couple of strokes with a brass brush under hot water and it's like new. I think the ability to easily clean a .22 can is an important consideration.
https://silencerco.com/silencers/sparrow-22/
I like it mainly because of the split sleeve around the baffles. This ensures that it never locks up or fails to come apart easily. The baffles are a PITA to hand clean (best in a heated sonic bath), but the rest of it is a synch. I get the whole thing too hot to touch with a heat gun, and then Froglube everything, and wipe the excess off after it cools. I take it apart after shooting, and all the crud just wipes out. Worst cast a couple of strokes with a brass brush under hot water and it's like new. I think the ability to easily clean a .22 can is an important consideration.
My first 22RF can was a SWR Spectre II, and it's been excellent in every way. Very durable, so rated for any of the RF magnum ctdgs, up to & including the 5.7x28 FN CF round. It's very quiet, easy to take apart & clean, and has had absolutely no negative effect on accuracy on any of the four custom bbl'd bolt repeaters I've used it on (Stiller 2500XR/Krieger, 40X & XB Jelrod repeaters/Benchmark, Krieger, Lilja bbls, and finally a V-22/Krieger). However, since I'm an avowed TBAC fanboy, last year I bought a 22TD - the stamp for it came in a few months ago (7mo wait, on a trust), and I've been enjoying all the same benefits with it that I've seen with the Spectre II. 22TD is an ounce or so lighter due to the outer titanium shell, and just as accurate & quiet as the Spectre II.
At 5-6 OZ is weight really a consideration? I'm with you on TBAC love though.
I have a Ruger 22/45 Lite that absolutely BLOWS to shoot naked. It's WAAAY too light for the short sight radius, and just feels totally unstable and unbalanced in the hand, period. I'm almost certain it was designed to be shot suppressed, because I screw the can on and all of a sudden it's balanced and stable.
A friend has the heavy barrel version and if I had it to do over I would get that one and not the Lite. Lots of good options and a wide price range.
I have a Ruger 22/45 Lite that absolutely BLOWS to shoot naked. It's WAAAY too light for the short sight radius, and just feels totally unstable and unbalanced in the hand, period. I'm almost certain it was designed to be shot suppressed, because I screw the can on and all of a sudden it's balanced and stable.
A friend has the heavy barrel version and if I had it to do over I would get that one and not the Lite. Lots of good options and a wide price range.
When it comes to ease of cleaning the accumulated RF crud out of a can, I think the best way to go is to disassemble a new can before you ever shoot it (hard to make yourself do this after waiting for the stamp to come for it, I know), heat the steel baffles for an hour in an oven at 195*F, then drop each of them into a jar of DOT 5 silicone-based brake fluid and leave them in it for 35-45 min. Pick them out of the brake fluid after that & set them on a folded paper towel to drain the excess brake fluid. Reassemble, and you're set. The brake fluid keeps the RF fouling from welding to the baffles, and can be wiped and/or brushed off easily.
For guys who've got fouled cans, the best way I've found to clean is to scrape the heaviest crud out, then soak the individual baffles in Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner/Degreaser (diluted 1:1 with water) for 30-45 min. Brushing/wiping will then get you down to the base metal of the baffles (I don't own a can with aluminum baffles, and don't know if this stuff is safe to use on them), and you can then do the DOT 5 BF treatment. Warning - don't substitute DOT 5.5 brake fluid - it's not anywhere close to the silicone-based DOT 5 stuff.
For guys who've got fouled cans, the best way I've found to clean is to scrape the heaviest crud out, then soak the individual baffles in Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner/Degreaser (diluted 1:1 with water) for 30-45 min. Brushing/wiping will then get you down to the base metal of the baffles (I don't own a can with aluminum baffles, and don't know if this stuff is safe to use on them), and you can then do the DOT 5 BF treatment. Warning - don't substitute DOT 5.5 brake fluid - it's not anywhere close to the silicone-based DOT 5 stuff.
I've put thousands upon thousands of rounds of filthy Eley .22 ammo through my 30P. I looked down it a few weeks ago, and decided it was time to clean it out.
I filled it with CLR twice a day for a week and let it stand till the next filling. Ended up using one big bottle of CLR. It was easy, required about 30 total minutes of my time, and proved to be very effective. I got a LOT of crap out of it. Looking down it now it looks just like my new Ultra 9 which has seen only about 1K of centerfire only.
If I'd wanted, I could likely have gotten closer to as-new condition just by continuing the process. I just got bored and didn't see the point.
I have a 5" PSS that's had about the same amount of .22 through it. It'll get the same treatment sometime this winter.
I filled it with CLR twice a day for a week and let it stand till the next filling. Ended up using one big bottle of CLR. It was easy, required about 30 total minutes of my time, and proved to be very effective. I got a LOT of crap out of it. Looking down it now it looks just like my new Ultra 9 which has seen only about 1K of centerfire only.
If I'd wanted, I could likely have gotten closer to as-new condition just by continuing the process. I just got bored and didn't see the point.
I have a 5" PSS that's had about the same amount of .22 through it. It'll get the same treatment sometime this winter.
I agree that using a Ultra 9 on a rimfire probably isn't the best idea.
Since you seem to agree, I would recommend the Griffin Micro, TBAC TD-22, the Spectre 2, Rugged Oculus and the Dead Air Mask. I only have the Oculus, Spectre 2 and Mask myself, but have the Micro in jail. It's a little heavier, but also can be run on 22s up to 22-250. Not sure I will do that, but it's pretty handy to be able to throw it on an AR and go after coyotes on a moments notice. I have handled it and taken it apart and it appears to be hell built for stout.
Since you seem to agree, I would recommend the Griffin Micro, TBAC TD-22, the Spectre 2, Rugged Oculus and the Dead Air Mask. I only have the Oculus, Spectre 2 and Mask myself, but have the Micro in jail. It's a little heavier, but also can be run on 22s up to 22-250. Not sure I will do that, but it's pretty handy to be able to throw it on an AR and go after coyotes on a moments notice. I have handled it and taken it apart and it appears to be hell built for stout.
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