Chasing grouping issues - Savage 10 FCP-SR

[Solid_Brass]

Bought this rifle several years ago (new), and has just sat in my safe. Got it out to do some testing on some cans. I have put probably 150 rounds through it. I did notice that it copper fouled quickly. I was getting 2in groups at 100yrds. To be fair, I only had subsonic ammo. I will be going back to the range friday to shoot 145,147,150 and 155 in a few different brands. Scope is a proven Votex Viper 6.5x20. I borescoped the rifle and this is what concerns me. So much chatter and tool marks. I took a video:



Sry for the bad audio, had my hand over the mic. If you skip to 2:30, there are really bad marks on the lands, this is about 4in from the muzzle. I will report back with what it groups with quality ammo.

 

[James87adams]

This is the old model fcp sr (model 19480) in the camo fiberglass stock right? If so, I have the same one. I absolutely love mine, it shoots far better than I can.

Try the 168 gr federal gold medal match, that's what works the best for me. I have not tried any subs with it, but put about 200 rds through it using most common match ammo I could find.

I cant speak to the machining, but mine has been excellent.

 

[James87adams]

If yours is the newer model in the black stock, the one that takes savage mags, your issues might make sense. Savage supposedly dropped the quality on the new ones to pump out a cheaper version.

 

[Solid_Brass]

If yours is the newer model in the black stock, the one that takes savage mags, your issues might make sense. Savage supposedly dropped the quality on the new ones to pump out a cheaper version.

This is the older model, uses AICS Magazines. It is a fiberglass stock with the aluminum "V" blocks (or whatever Savage calls them). I will see if my local shop has 168gr.

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

My Savage 10 FCP-SR "FrankenGun"...

started like this:

Shot ragged holes from day one and is presently a consistent .75 MOA shooter -

I suspect shit ammunition or some issue with the shooter. Apologies. Mine is 3 years old - I think I got the last Model 10 FCP-SR in 6.5 Creedmoor 'cause I looked all over the Internet to find it. Haven't seen one since but would buy it NIB if I did.

VooDoo

 

[hereinaz]

If it doesn't shoot with good ammo, check all screws. Clean and Locktite scope rail. Torque action screws.

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

Yup. Mine went to help because the rail shot loose.....took me months to figure it out.

VooDoo

 

[Solid_Brass]

It very well could be me. I am by no means an expert when it comes to shooting. Just getting into long distance shooting. I have a handfull of rifles to test this weekend so I will be bringing my tools with me to the range. I am a Tool & Die machinist by trade so I guess it just bugs me when I see machining marks, especially when I just got some Kreiger barrels in for builds.

 

[czmechanic]

Before you head to the range again, remove and re-install the scope base screws and the action screws making sure both are torqued to spec. I've seen a ton of factory rifles (Savage, Remington, Ruger, etc) with randomly torqued or finger tight action screws.

After that, run some FGGM through it un-suppressed before you dig to deep into what may not be a problem. That rifle should be MOA or better at 100 yards with pretty much zero effort.

Also, stop bore scoping factory barrels, that stuff will give you nightmares

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

Yeah, I have to agree with czmechanic....my cheapo Savage was sub MOA from day one with any ammo I could find and I have since shot a few more Savages and they all are basically tack drivers. I *did* have my scope rail come loose but not loose enough to be definite....just random flyer and gradually opening group sizes until I finally was dry firing and watched the scope dot move when the firing pin fell. WTF?

When I removed the scope the rail screws were loose enough that the rail was sliding/moving a few thousandths and when I removed the rail the underside has been polished and abraded from mving around. So, it had been moving for weeks. Have a good hard look at that because it seems to be a common failure in factory rifle Savages in particular.

VooDoo

 

[308pirate]

@Solid_Brass

You need to send some Tubb Final Finish bullets to lap that barrel. The lapping bullets are sold for reloaders, and Tubb makes loaded ammo with the lapping bullets for those who don't reload.

 

[Gustav7]

@Solid_Brass

You need to send some Tubb Final Finish bullets to lap that barrel. The lapping bullets are sold for reloaders, and Tubb makes loaded ammo with the lapping bullets for those who don't reload.

Does that shit really work? I’m assuming for factory barrels it works better

 

[308pirate]

Does that shit really work? I’m assuming for factory barrels it works better

It absolutely works. Any barrel that either fouls with copper too much or just doesn't want to shoot will definitely benefit from it.

I wouldn't use it in a premium barrel, mostly because it shouldn't be necessary.

Tubb also makes a similar product called Throat Maintenance System. Same idea only using the very finest grit to keep the throat smooth as it wears. It will stretch barrel life some. How much? That's hard to tell.

 

[BadAccountant]

Bought this rifle several years ago (new), and has just sat in my safe. Got it out to do some testing on some cans. I have put probably 150 rounds through it. I did notice that it copper fouled quickly. I was getting 2in groups at 100yrds. To be fair, I only had subsonic ammo. I will be going back to the range friday to shoot 145,147,150 and 155 in a few different brands. Scope is a proven Votex Viper 6.5x20. I borescoped the rifle and this is what concerns me. So much chatter and tool marks. I took a video:



Sry for the bad audio, had my hand over the mic. If you skip to 2:30, there are really bad marks on the lands, this is about 4in from the muzzle. I will report back with what it groups with quality ammo.

You are likely not going to get the best groups when working with ammo outside of the typical operating velocities or pressures that a gun is designed to handle and a new barrel will not break in as quickly with subs as it will with full power loads.

Before you head to the range again, remove and re-install the scope base screws and the action screws making sure both are torqued to spec. I've seen a ton of factory rifles (Savage, Remington, Ruger, etc) with randomly torqued or finger tight action screws.

After that, run some FGGM through it un-suppressed before you dig to deep into what may not be a problem. That rifle should be MOA or better at 100 yards with pretty much zero effort.

Also, stop bore scoping factory barrels, that stuff will give you nightmares

Agreed. Ignorance is bliss.

 

[BadAccountant]

@Solid_Brass

You need to send some Tubb Final Finish bullets to lap that barrel. The lapping bullets are sold for reloaders, and Tubb makes loaded ammo with the lapping bullets for those who don't reload.

I would say do this on a rifle you don't care about too much. If it doesn't work - it's still ammo and is fun to shoot. If it does, so much the better.

 

[308pirate]

I would say do this on a rifle you don't care about too much. If it doesn't work - it's still ammo and is fun to shoot. If it does, so much the better.

You sound like you don't have first hand experience with the product. I do and I stand by what I said.

 

[Solid_Brass]

Update: I am still getting 2in groups at 100yrds. I shot 4 different types of ammo ,Federal Gold Medal Match (169), Hornady Precision Hunter (178), Winchester FMJ (147), and Federal XM80 (149). It's slim pickings locally for most ammo (as is most places). I checked the scope rail screws (even re-loctited them), and re-installed my scope. I torqued the action screws and played with a few different torques. I had a co-worker shoot the rifle as well (to take me out of the variable). It is on it's way back to Savage.