May have to do a little work on the mag catch, but it should be OK. My only gripe about the Pro 700 was the ability to
add weight to the front end. I did find out that a weighted arca rail from Are 419 help a lot.
 
I'll go xylo.

- don't want to dremel anything to accomodate the trigger hanger;
- I want the thing run AW mags out of the box ( at least I have both mag latches just in case: Ted said the AW works with the standard, anyway)
- I don't want to go above 20# for this build. It will be a PRS rig, but 18-19 pounds are plenty for a Dasher build.
- willing to give Xylo a try since was introduced in 2019 as far as I remember
- I like the short HG, will use the arca extension when needed
- eager to build my "own" wooden grip, looking for some exotic briar wood for that...
 
Not a W-3?
Not for me, I have very strong feelings towards a grip that doesn't allow for a natural thumb position. Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle. I know plenty of people are very successful with "floating your thumb" and I have tried and tired to make it become a natural thing for me but it just isn't. The human hand and arm naturally puts the thumb right behind the tang. The only chassis that incorporates the closed top that still allows a mostly tension free firing hand for me is the original AW.

I have owned about everything out there and just can't make it tension free. So the inexpensive simple Bravo gets it done for me, same as most of the McMillan's, Manners, TRG (non folder, which is basically a Bravo or vise versa), Xylo, etc.

If I could have a fully adjustable grip like on 3P smallbore or air rifles then I would be good with it. Those can be canted off the vertical axis which allows for a more natural hand position.

Sorry for the book, I just think that there is room for improvement in the chassis grip area.
 
I'll go xylo.

- don't want to dremel anything to accomodate the trigger hanger;
- I want the thing run AW mags out of the box ( at least I have both mag latches just in case: Ted said the AW works with the standard, anyway)
- I don't want to go above 20# for this build. It will be a PRS rig, but 18-19 pounds are plenty for a Dasher build.
- willing to give Xylo a try since was introduced in 2019 as far as I remember
- I like the short HG, will use the arca extension when needed
- eager to build my "own" wooden grip, looking for some exotic briar wood for that...
I've been kicking around the idea of building my first bolt gun, and getting a CDG as the action.

I could be wrong, but I think even the Xylo you will have to modify to get the AW mags to fit.

I would love to do a CDG in a MDT XRS, but I also don't want to dremel anything.
 
Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle.

Engineering wise, you're completely wrong.

Traditional stocks/chassis concentrate the recoil force into two stress risers. It's no surprise when stocks crack there.

As for the ergonomics, that's just a matter of opinion. What is a "natural" thumb position to you is unbearable to someone else.

But OK.
 
Engineering wise, you're completely wrong.

Traditional stocks/chassis concentrate the recoil force into two stress risers. It's no surprise when stocks crack there.

As for the ergonomics, that's just a matter of opinion. What is a "natural" thumb position to you is unbearable to someone else.

But OK.
Possibility, but for the shits of it relax your hand and arm (let everything just go to where it naturally wants to). Then hold your elbow at about at 90⁰. Is your thumb sitting over top of your fingers or is it an inch or so inboard of your fingers.

Ergonomics are not a matter of opinion they are driven by anatomy. Agreed that everyone is different, but not that much. I am of the opinion that we need to conform the rifle to our body, not our body to the rifle. But that is just an opinion and what I am doing. I support you doing whatever you think is best for you.

As far as the stocks cracking, is that really a problem you suffer from these days?
 
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Possibility, but for the shits of it relax your hand and arm (let everything just go to where it naturally wants to). Then hold your elbow at about at 90⁰. Is your thumb sitting over top of your fingers or is it an inch or so inboard of your fingers.
It does, but that is irrelevant. The best way to grip a handgun has little to do with how our fingers naturally go when relaxed. Same with a rifle.

Ergonomics are not a matter of opinion they are driven by anatomy.
Since human anatomy does come with an almost unlimited number of variables, it is a matter of opinion.

As far as the stocks cracking, is that really a problem you suffer from these days?
You're changing the goal posts. You said:
Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle.
Your assumption is incorrect and a cursory review of how forces travel through solid objects explains why. Not to mention the fact that the words stress, strain, and force all have very narrow meanings. I'm not even going to argue this.

Hey, you like what you like. I'm just pointing out that not everyone shares your opinion and why.
 
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It does, but that is irrelevant. The best way to grip a handgun has little to do with how our fingers naturally go when relaxed. Same with a rifle.


Since human anatomy does come with an almost unlimited number of variables, it is a matter of opinion.


You're changing the goal posts. You said:

Your assumption is incorrect and a cursory review of how forces travel through solid objects explains why. Not to mention the fact that the words stress, strain, and force all have very narrow meanings. I'm not even going to argue this.

Hey, you like what you like. I'm just pointing out that not everyone shares your opinion and why.
A bit of miss understanding I think. The stress I'm talking about in this scenario that is being put into the rifle would be from your firing hand having to rotate outboard around the section of the stock / chassis that attaches to the tang area or rotate inboard to wrap your thumb around the grip. As opposed to lay right on top like it can with the Xylo, Bravo, Manners, etc.

Like I said, you do you. I know what works for me...
 
A bit of miss understanding I think. The stress I'm talking about in this scenario that is being put into the rifle would be from your firing hand having to rotate outboard around the section of the stock / chassis that attaches to the tang area or rotate inboard to wrap your thumb around the grip. As opposed to lay right on top like it can with the Xylo, Bravo, Manners, etc.

Like I said, you do you. I know what works for me...

For the record, I have rifles in KRG X-ray chassis and a Bergara HMR (stock is extremely similar to a Bravo). My firing had is much more at home on the X-Ray.

If I shot rifles more, I'd have dumped the HMR stock for another X Ray chassis already.
 
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I've been kicking around the idea of building my first bolt gun, and getting a CDG as the action.

I could be wrong, but I think even the Xylo you will have to modify to get the AW mags to fit.

I would love to do a CDG in a MDT XRS, but I also don't want to dremel anything.

In the video Ted mentions that there are some Xylo fitment issues with AICS mags, not the AW mags.

 
My understanding is that the Xylo come standard with the shorter mag latch and then you can buy separately the longer to run AW mags. He has a Xylo with that longer mag latch installed in the video.
 
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My understanding is that the Xylo come standard with the shorter mag latch and then you can buy separately the longer to run AW mags. He has a Xylo with that longer mag latch installed in the video.
I thought he stated in one of these videos that it was the standard latch in the chassis. This would mean that you would need a shorter latch to use AICS with this action.
 
Post 1371 in the CDG "mothership" thread.

Mag Latches

The chassis in the video has the standard latch in it. Although I cannot speak to other chassis, I am guessing that their standard latches will work fine with the AW mags and will need to be adjusted or shortened by 0.065" for the AICS mags.

Ted
 
Downside I see is you can't run both mags of the mag catch needs to be changed as I have a pile of ai mags. But no aw mags yet. But that's a problem for 8-12 weeks from now
 

Really would prefer to use this if/when available.
 
Xlr envy pro or ai atx. The xlr has an adjustable mag latch, the atx comes with a metal tang installed to keep aics mags low. Remove that and the aw will ride high like its intended.
 
This thread is relevant to my interests. Ordered a cdg and and a 6cm barrel from pva to build my first “normal” bolt gun. I want the option of a folder and enclosed fore end or at least a nv bridge.

At present I’m leaning towards the ao/vision chassis or an at-x.
 
This thread is relevant to my interests. Ordered a cdg and and a 6cm barrel from pva to build my first “normal” bolt gun. I want the option of a folder and enclosed fore end or at least a nv bridge.

At present I’m leaning towards the ao/vision chassis or an at-x.
I was looking for the same options in a chassis. Went with the magpul pro. Honestly couldn't stomach 2000 for the at-x once I had it setup the way I wanted. Ill be under 1k for the magpul with a folder/arca/nv mount feels very comfortable and rock solid
 
This thread is relevant to my interests. Ordered a cdg and and a 6cm barrel from pva to build my first “normal” bolt gun. I want the option of a folder and enclosed fore end or at least a nv bridge.

At present I’m leaning towards the ao/vision chassis or an at-x.
The only thing holding me back from ordering an AT-X is the non adjustable mag catch.
 
I am banking on Ted being correct that a standard mag catch should work as long as your using aw mags. I can buy allot of aw mags for the cost difference between the magpul pro and anything else with the same features
 
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