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If I do not use the Xylo it will probably be in a Bravo.
Not for me, I have very strong feelings towards a grip that doesn't allow for a natural thumb position. Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle. I know plenty of people are very successful with "floating your thumb" and I have tried and tired to make it become a natural thing for me but it just isn't. The human hand and arm naturally puts the thumb right behind the tang. The only chassis that incorporates the closed top that still allows a mostly tension free firing hand for me is the original AW.Not a W-3?
I've been kicking around the idea of building my first bolt gun, and getting a CDG as the action.I'll go xylo.
- don't want to dremel anything to accomodate the trigger hanger;
- I want the thing run AW mags out of the box ( at least I have both mag latches just in case: Ted said the AW works with the standard, anyway)
- I don't want to go above 20# for this build. It will be a PRS rig, but 18-19 pounds are plenty for a Dasher build.
- willing to give Xylo a try since was introduced in 2019 as far as I remember
- I like the short HG, will use the arca extension when needed
- eager to build my "own" wooden grip, looking for some exotic briar wood for that...
Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle.
Possibility, but for the shits of it relax your hand and arm (let everything just go to where it naturally wants to). Then hold your elbow at about at 90⁰. Is your thumb sitting over top of your fingers or is it an inch or so inboard of your fingers.Engineering wise, you're completely wrong.
Traditional stocks/chassis concentrate the recoil force into two stress risers. It's no surprise when stocks crack there.
As for the ergonomics, that's just a matter of opinion. What is a "natural" thumb position to you is unbearable to someone else.
But OK.
It does, but that is irrelevant. The best way to grip a handgun has little to do with how our fingers naturally go when relaxed. Same with a rifle.Possibility, but for the shits of it relax your hand and arm (let everything just go to where it naturally wants to). Then hold your elbow at about at 90⁰. Is your thumb sitting over top of your fingers or is it an inch or so inboard of your fingers.
Since human anatomy does come with an almost unlimited number of variables, it is a matter of opinion.Ergonomics are not a matter of opinion they are driven by anatomy.
You're changing the goal posts. You said:As far as the stocks cracking, is that really a problem you suffer from these days?
Your assumption is incorrect and a cursory review of how forces travel through solid objects explains why. Not to mention the fact that the words stress, strain, and force all have very narrow meanings. I'm not even going to argue this.Any chassis / stock that has a closed section or bar going from the butt assemble to the tang area is not good IMO. I think it puts unnecessary stress into the rifle.
A bit of miss understanding I think. The stress I'm talking about in this scenario that is being put into the rifle would be from your firing hand having to rotate outboard around the section of the stock / chassis that attaches to the tang area or rotate inboard to wrap your thumb around the grip. As opposed to lay right on top like it can with the Xylo, Bravo, Manners, etc.It does, but that is irrelevant. The best way to grip a handgun has little to do with how our fingers naturally go when relaxed. Same with a rifle.
Since human anatomy does come with an almost unlimited number of variables, it is a matter of opinion.
You're changing the goal posts. You said:
Your assumption is incorrect and a cursory review of how forces travel through solid objects explains why. Not to mention the fact that the words stress, strain, and force all have very narrow meanings. I'm not even going to argue this.
Hey, you like what you like. I'm just pointing out that not everyone shares your opinion and why.
A bit of miss understanding I think. The stress I'm talking about in this scenario that is being put into the rifle would be from your firing hand having to rotate outboard around the section of the stock / chassis that attaches to the tang area or rotate inboard to wrap your thumb around the grip. As opposed to lay right on top like it can with the Xylo, Bravo, Manners, etc.
Like I said, you do you. I know what works for me...
I've been kicking around the idea of building my first bolt gun, and getting a CDG as the action.
I could be wrong, but I think even the Xylo you will have to modify to get the AW mags to fit.
I would love to do a CDG in a MDT XRS, but I also don't want to dremel anything.
I thought he stated in one of these videos that it was the standard latch in the chassis. This would mean that you would need a shorter latch to use AICS with this action.My understanding is that the Xylo come standard with the shorter mag latch and then you can buy separately the longer to run AW mags. He has a Xylo with that longer mag latch installed in the video.
Mag Latches
The chassis in the video has the standard latch in it. Although I cannot speak to other chassis, I am guessing that their standard latches will work fine with the AW mags and will need to be adjusted or shortened by 0.065" for the AICS mags.
Ted
I was confused by the description of the longer latch on the website, thanks !I thought he stated in one of these videos that it was the standard latch in the chassis. This would mean that you would need a shorter latch to use AICS with this action.
Just that it uses a trigger hanger which adds depth to the trigger mounting and so some chassis need minor modification to fit.Is there any fitment constraints for the CDG that will limit what stock/chassis a buyer can use?
Archimedes bolt handle fits into an atx when folded I do know this.Anyone know if the bolt handle should fit in the in the stock on the ax when folded? Also anyone have a good video going over the ax chassis
AW mag cut.Is there any fitment constraints for the CDG that will limit what stock/chassis a buyer can use?
It’s cut for AW mags whether you plan on running them or not.Only if you plan on running AW mags.
Not sure why it wouldntDoes an Impact fit an ACC with AW mags?
Do they say it only works with AICS?Does MDT advertise it to work with AW mags?
Fair enough.It’s cut for AW mags whether you plan on running them or not.
I was looking for the same options in a chassis. Went with the magpul pro. Honestly couldn't stomach 2000 for the at-x once I had it setup the way I wanted. Ill be under 1k for the magpul with a folder/arca/nv mount feels very comfortable and rock solidThis thread is relevant to my interests. Ordered a cdg and and a 6cm barrel from pva to build my first “normal” bolt gun. I want the option of a folder and enclosed fore end or at least a nv bridge.
At present I’m leaning towards the ao/vision chassis or an at-x.
The only thing holding me back from ordering an AT-X is the non adjustable mag catch.This thread is relevant to my interests. Ordered a cdg and and a 6cm barrel from pva to build my first “normal” bolt gun. I want the option of a folder and enclosed fore end or at least a nv bridge.
At present I’m leaning towards the ao/vision chassis or an at-x.
Should be, yes.The CDG will be my first rifle build, so please treat me like I took the short bus to school.
If I get a KRG Bravo with their new adjustable mag catch trigger guard, I'll be good to go? Thanks