Sidearms & Scatterguns Cheapest 9mm - Reload or Steel

treillw

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 3, 2017
673
86
What's the cheapest 9mm out there? I have the gear to reload it, but it would also be nice to have a semi auto that I'm not worried about picking up the brass and let the steel rust.

What is a great price on 9mm these days? What was a great price in the relatively recent history (not 50 years ago when you used to walk to school)?

Any good sources for deals?

Thanks!
 
OP, your question depends on when you bought your components. If you're buying everything today at the inflated primer and powder costs, yes it is cheaper to buy loaded bulk 9mm. If you are sitting on a pile of pre-inflation plated bullets, primers, and powder, and then tumble range pick up brass then reloads will probably be cheaper. Right now I can reload 124gr 9mm for about $0.13 per round if I use my plated bullets or $0.09 if I cast my own bullets. I'm fortunate to have been in a position to stock up on components years ago and when things go on sale I buy bulk. It also depends on how much your time is worth. I enjoy casting, powdercoating, and reloading, so for me the time spent is an enjoyable and relaxing part of my day - no value lost. I have 3 kids who shoot with me, so I learned long ago that this was the only way I was going to be able to afford range trips!
 
I try to load a couple hundred of 9mm every day while I unwind from being at work. If I had to “pay” my hourly wage for the time spent reloading - it would be FAR cheaper just to buy it. I too stocked up on components before the pricing got stupid. But sooner or later I will be out of it.

Edit:
Except for subsonic 9mm.
It will always be far cheaper to load your own for them.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 30calDeath
I agree with @415m3 on this. Pre-covid, I could do 9mm for about $0.14 a round. Primer, powder and fmj bullet alone will run around $0.25, now. That doesn't take into account your time, brass (which is usually easy to come by) and reloading equipment. Lucky Gunner is selling Blazer for $0.25-0.26 right now. Rifle is definitely still worth it.
 
If you buy enough stuff in bulk, there's a tipping point where you can make 9mm for much cheaper than buying shitty factory rounds. Remember, as far as pricing/appreciation... shit is only going in one direction, no one has to be Sherlock Holmes to know that. So to a degree, it's a shit or get off the pot situation... the longer you wait to jump in, the longer it'll take to be in the black.

That said, if you don't shoot a high volume, then just buying cases might be the best.

I was a "buy it cheap and stack it deep" guy until 9mm passed $0.20 per round for factory stuff... and that's when I decided to buy my own "ammo factory" and I haven't regretted it once. And my factory only makes match-grade shit lol.

Always Only buy in bulk, and put a good press setup together, or else the time suck makes it not worth it, but if you get those two things squared away you can shoot shit that's twice as good for half as much. I run an XL750 with an MBF, which has paid for itself 4X over and ~1000 rounds only take about an hour of my time.

tempImageIawNEo.png
 
Berrys played 115 gr 9mm bullets currently running $0.09 per bullet. Primers are running close to $0.10 each. Add a couple of $0.01 for powder and you’re already greater than $20 per 100. That’s before factoring in brass if you need to buy it, amortization of your reloading equipment, and your time. About the best price I’ve seen is ~$0.30 per loaded round. How fast can you safely load pistol ammo? 10 sec per round? That’s 360 per hour, for a savings of $36 per hour ($0.10 per cartridge X 360 cartridges). How much is your time worth? Are you already set up to reload? Single stage, turret, progressive?

I scrounge up as much of my pistol brass as is practical when I can, but I haven’t started loading it. I’d rather spend reloading time making p vision rifle ammo. There’s a better return on my time- in my estimation.
 
Berrys played 115 gr 9mm bullets currently running $0.09 per bullet. Primers are running close to $0.10 each. Add a couple of $0.01 for powder and you’re already greater than $20 per 100. That’s before factoring in brass if you need to buy it, amortization of your reloading equipment, and your time. About the best price I’ve seen is ~$0.30 per loaded round. How fast can you safely load pistol ammo? 10 sec per round? That’s 360 per hour, for a savings of $36 per hour ($0.10 per cartridge X 360 cartridges). How much is your time worth? Are you already set up to reload? Single stage, turret, progressive?

I think my last 3500 9mm rds came in at 16-18 cents a round or something, and thats when I over paid for powder. Primers are the big hit really, but its still worth it to me. If 9mm drops to $200 a case shipped, I'd probably buy it for practice ammo but still not running anything besides my loaded ammo in matches.

360rds an hour? Most serious pistol shooters who reload are generally running progressives. I can do 300-400rds in 30 minutes pretty easily and that includes loading up my primer tubes, depending on the day and my motivation. Thats on a Dillon 750. Now run a 1050 or a Mark 7 and you're well into the 1000's of rounds an hour, plus automation if you want it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: abn31c and CK1.0
What's the cheapest 9mm out there? I have the gear to reload it, but it would also be nice to have a semi auto that I'm not worried about picking up the brass and let the steel rust.

What is a great price on 9mm these days? What was a great price in the relatively recent history (not 50 years ago when you used to walk to school)?

Any good sources for deals?

Thanks!

OP, it really just depends on how much you shoot. If you’re shooting 5k+ of 9mm a year and you already have the equipment I’d say that’s worth it. But again, the savings comes from buying in bulk. The biggest discounts on bullets are going to be 10k+ bullets, which puts bullets at ~6-7 cents.

SGAmmo has blazer aluminum and wolf steel at like $230-$240 and that’s with free shipping. Hard to beat that if you’re only shooting 2k rds.

I’m forecasting about 10k rds through just my S2 this year. I’m not shooting aluminum or steel shit so based off the cheapest current brass cased prices, I’m saving about 10 cents per rd give or take. That saves me about $1000. Plus I can control all aspects and I don’t mind reloading.
 
OP, it really just depends on how much you shoot. If you’re shooting 5k+ of 9mm a year and you already have the equipment I’d say that’s worth it. But again, the savings comes from buying in bulk. The biggest discounts on bullets are going to be 10k+ bullets, which puts bullets at ~6-7 cents.

SGAmmo has blazer aluminum and wolf steel at like $230-$240 and that’s with free shipping. Hard to beat that if you’re only shooting 2k rds.

I’m forecasting about 10k rds through just my S2 this year. I’m not shooting aluminum or steel shit so based off the cheapest current brass cased prices, I’m saving about 10 cents per rd give or take. That saves me about $1000. Plus I can control all aspects and I don’t mind reloading.

Same here. If you shoot a lot, it's still worth it.

When I was younger, leaner, and faster, still chasing USPSA glory lol, my 9mm appetite was much larger... but even now, doesn't take long to burn through enough rounds to be glad I can make some more for half price.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gustav7
The only add to pricing is, depending on how much you're going to shoot, there's definitely better deals had the more you're buying. Boxes of 50 off the shelf aren't worth it. 500 at a time will get some nice deals, 1,000 at a time will usually see some nice savings.
 
The brass is the most expensive part, and I have thousands and thousands of pieces. It's pistol brass! Who cares if it's mixed head stamps?

Powder cost next to nothing if you use something fast like Unique or shotgun powder at 3.5 gr per cartridge, and a Missouri Bullet Co, hard cast 9mm is about $0.07.

I'm probably about half the cost of the cheapest ammo, and IMO it's much higher quality. If I want 147 subs then I DEFFINATELY can make them cheaper. I shoot a lot of suppressed and subs, so there it's not even close.

My kid loves to shoot the Stribog, and burns up ammo fast. I have to say it seems like I always need to be pulling the lever on the 550, so I do buy cases of 115 gr at Academy or wherever when I see it cheap. I will pay more to save my time, but that's the only reason...
 
  • Like
Reactions: TonyTheTiger
The brass is the most expensive part, and I have thousands and thousands of pieces. It's pistol brass! Who cares if it's mixed head stamps?

Powder cost next to nothing if you use something fast like Unique or shotgun powder at 3.5 gr per cartridge, and a Missouri Bullet Co, hard cast 9mm is about $0.07.

I'm probably about half the cost of the cheapest ammo, and IMO it's much higher quality. If I want 147 subs then I DEFFINATELY can make them cheaper. I shoot a lot of suppressed and subs, so there it's not even close.

My kid loves to shoot the Stribog, and burns up ammo fast. I have to say it seems like I always need to be pulling the lever on the 550, so I do buy cases of 115 gr at Academy or wherever when I see it cheap. I will pay more to save my time, but that's the only reason...

I just upgraded to a 750 (from a 550) and its so much faster. I can only imagine upping to the 1050 or a Mark 7 would double the speed of a 750.

If/when my kids get into shooting and we're shooting more than I shoot per month now, I'll be upgrading for sure, mainly just for 9mm.

Ya when brass cased 124gr factory ammo gets to around the $200-220 mark, I'll buy some to save some time. But I'll still reload 9mm, but don't have to do as much. Shooting 1000rds a month though, a $40-$50 difference per month adds up.
 
LOL
I can buy 5000 FMJ 9mm for $1300
5000 primers 500
5000 FMJ bullets 550
Powder 40

Plus cases

Plus labor

And I dont have to pick up 5000 cases off the ground.
 
I don’t buy brass, factory 9 ammo is relatively cheap so I don’t waste my time loading the first go around. Shoot factory and end up with brass, save a bit of time.

Bayou coated bullets, prefer 147’s
Faster powders, I’m using 3.3 Bullseye.

Primer cost has increased the price quite a bit, but I was stocked up long before.

But now days type of prices per round
- 147 BB coated .09c
- Bullseye at $40lb .02c
- Primer - .10c ?

.21c per round using pick up brass. I load 9 to tune ammo and I already have everything. Cheap 115gn Blazer brass is $17 a box (.34c rd) here in AK.

Dillon 550, end up with 100rds per 15minutes once the press is set up and running.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fig
Agreed, our pistols bays are mostly sand, the indoor shacks we shoot from a lot in winter are concrete and have brooms(easy mode). However if outside and snow/ice is on the ground hot cases melt the ice and refreeze(stuck) in seconds. Not dealing with that either. Different situations dictate the decision to pick up. I don’t chase every last case either, way too easy to wander over to a bay that some left an easy to get pile of brass in.
 
LOL
I can buy 5000 FMJ 9mm for $1300
5000 primers 500
5000 FMJ bullets 550
Powder 40

Plus cases

Plus labor

And I dont have to pick up 5000 cases off the ground.

-5000 primers for me is more like $400-450 if you're buying them now. I'm still using a mix of old primers and new so realistically for my next 10k, I'm looking at $350 for those 5k.
-10k SNS casting 125gr coated -- $750 w/ bulk discount, which is $375 per 5k
-3.8gr Titegroup for 5k rds is 19,000 grains or 2.714 lbs. At $28/lb from local place thats $76.

So that's $801 for my 5k. $901 if you use the higher primer prices.

That's $160 per k for match grade ammo that's tuned to my gun at my specs.

No shame in preferring to pay an extra $500 per 5k, but don't act like you're saving money when you do lol.
 
First you are comparing lead bullets with jacketed bullets, primers are not 350 for 1k if you include hazmat and you forgot
about cases.

And you still have to pick up 5000 cases from the ground when you are done.

Match grade ammo? are you weighing every charge?
 
First you are comparing lead bullets with jacketed bullets, primers are not 350 for 1k if you include hazmat and you forgot
about cases.

And you still have to pick up 5000 cases from the ground when you are done.

Match grade ammo? are you weighing every charge?

Jesus dude, I'm not the one comparing anything. Anyone can run lead or copper, not my problem you chose the more expensive one that has no real advantage for practice. Coated lead from reputable a manufacturer is going to yield more than accurate results for most competition pistol applications. I'm talking 2-3" groups at 25yds with a pistol, repeatable headshots at 50yds. Go to any competition that isn't bullseye and everyone will be running coated lead if they reload, with the exception being open class since they use comps.

Primers cost whatever the hell they cost when you buy them. No shortage of options and not everyone has to buy primers offline. I've gotten primers from 3 different local places, one being Cabelas, ALL for $90 or less per 1k, with a decent amount being $50-$60 per k. I've bought primers offline for $70 and $80 per k plus hazmat split over the whole purchase.

I told you what 5k would cost me to make match grade ammo for my needs. LOL, match grade rifle ammo is not the same as match grade pistol ammo. My ammo is as accurate, but mostly MORE accurate, than any factory round I've tried. The only exception being my expensive carry ammo.

Yes, I have to pick up cases, which are FREE. It's not that hard. I spend 10-15m picking up brass after local comps and probably pick up 500-1000 cases in that time, more if its a match with a lot of static positions. Brass is the least of my concerns.

If you don't think it's worth it thats fine, you do you. But I know what it costs to make my shit, and I'm not special. Plenty of other guy are spending about the same, give or take.
 
My reloading and "9mm match ammo" will never be used in the same sentence.
It's all practice ammo, and about 1000 rounds go bang every week.
 
So you guys picking up cases with a shovel, what prep work are you doing to them?

Do you worry about them all being the same length (trimming)?
 
Last edited:
The ROs at my local range know I reload and if it's not busy will usually offer me whatever they sweep up (concrete pad). Mostly 9mm by a Longshot but I sort out anything I don't shoot and bag it. I'll offer it up to whoever (one of the other forums I'm on has a "pay it forward" thread).

Still reloading at 2018 prices for the most part.
 
At least tumbling?

Same as above. Dump mixed 9mm cases into the dry tumbler. Clean out the media and dump them into my casefeeder on my XL750. Then its load primer tubes and 800-900 rds/hr. So easy, it makes me absolutely HATE rifle case prep lol.

Only thing you have to watch out for is .380 cases. But I've gotten pretty good at spotting them before the priming stage. If they do make it there, they have different feel and often the case wobbles or doesn't fit right, so at most you lose a primer with the case.
 
Only thing you have to watch out for is .380 cases. But I've gotten pretty good at spotting them before the priming stage. If they do make it there, they have different feel and often the case wobbles or doesn't fit right, so at most you lose a primer with the case.
Just for funsies I've let a few 380 go through after I caught them on press. My PCC will shoot half a mag full of 380 just fine. But yeah, they are pretty annoying.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Anb618 and Gustav7
Same as above. Dump mixed 9mm cases into the dry tumbler. Clean out the media and dump them into my casefeeder on my XL750. Then its load primer tubes and 800-900 rds/hr. So easy, it makes me absolutely HATE rifle case prep lol.

Only thing you have to watch out for is .380 cases. But I've gotten pretty good at spotting them before the priming stage. If they do make it there, they have different feel and often the case wobbles or doesn't fit right, so at most you lose a primer with the case.
Is the Dillon xl750 the best way to go if getting a new press that is somewhat affordable?

I have a Dillon 450 that I've never used.

Is the Dillon 750 much better for 5.56?
 
since I don't have a progressive, I'm in the 'doesn't make sense for me to reload 9mm' camp.

I did one batch of 660-ish rounds on my single stage press. Took all farging week. Not doing that again till I find a deal on a progressive.

...and I still have about 2k bullets, about the same in SPPs, and 'some' powder stashed so all I'm waiting for is for a progressive to fall in my lap for cheap

M
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gustav7
Is the Dillon xl750 the best way to go if getting a new press that is somewhat affordable?

I have a Dillon 450 that I've never used.

Is the Dillon 750 much better for 5.56?
I would not consider a 750 as a beginners press. If you’re new to reloading or new to progressive presses, I would not usually recommend it. It’s also more expensive, at around $1k+ w/ casefeeder

I would learn on the 450/550 and then upgrade if you feel you need to.

The 450/550 is no “better” for 5.56 but the 750 will be faster, however it does require more knowledge to run properly
.
I think all you people that are pro reloading put a 0 in the soreadsheet for your time
And? Lol…My life isn’t an accounting sheet.
I can spend at maximum 1hr a week through the shooting season reloading, and that’s usually reloading some and then tinkering around.
Reloading saves me some money so I can shoot more, and I tend to like the whole process.
 
At least tumbling?

Wet tumbling with SS pins for a few hours will turn even the dirtiest of the dirty range pick-up crap into nearly brand-new brass.

Is the Dillon xl750 the best way to go if getting a new press that is somewhat affordable?

I have a Dillon 450 that I've never used.

Is the Dillon 750 much better for 5.56?

An XL750 is probably the best way to go as far as a reasonibly-priced auto-indexing progrressive press that hopefully leaves enough left over for a Mr. Bullet Feeder sooner rather than later (an MBF doubles your output per hour more or less, for pistol stuff at least).

But if you're going to do a whole lot of 5.56, an RL1100 is better for that due to the on-press swaging (and in case later you want to run a dedicated case-prep toolhead for on-press trimming, etc down the road).

Either way, a case feeder is a must from the jump.

A Dillon 450 is a progressive but doesn't auto-index, still a good press for lots of stuff, but it's a different breed of cat, more like a single-stage that will do up to 4 things at once if you're willing to share the workload and tag along for the ride. An auto-indexing progressive operates more like an "ammo machine", finishing a round with every pull as long as you keep the hoppers full.
 
I might as well fire up my Dillon 450.

What's a good price for 9mm projectiles? Good powder for practice? Standard/most common bullet weight? Any good bulk bullet sources?

Thanks!
 
I might as well fire up my Dillon 450.

What's a good price for 9mm projectiles? Good powder for practice? Standard/most common bullet weight? Any good bulk bullet sources?

Thanks!

I run 125gr TC coated cast bullets in all my 9mm for practice. I usually buy from SNS casting, but Blue Bullets is another good one. I’m paying 7-9 cents a bullet depending on how many you buy. Price breaks at 5k, 10k, 50k, etc

Bullet weight is a preference thing. I like 124/125. For practice and no competition it doesn’t really matter, so 115gr will get you a few more bullets at the above mentioned places.

Powder is also a preference thing but I’d try and find a good all around powder that’s not high tier price wise.
Titegroup
Alliant Sport Pistol
Unique
HS-6
HP-38

A loading manual is going to be your friend as well.
 
So you guys picking up cases with a shovel, what prep work are you doing to them?
I wet tumble WITHOUT PINS before any processing. I want clean brass running through my dies. I couldn't care less about the primer pockets. Clean or dirty primer pockets make zero difference in handgun ammo unless you're doing something weird like NRA bullseye.


Do you worry about them all being the same length (trimming)?
Nope.