Rifle Scopes Clarity doesn’t match parallax.
- Thread starter BurtG
- Start date
In my limited experience, razor gen2 clarity lined up with parallax and distance markings.
On my ATACR, the clearity does not line up with parralax and its distance indicators. Might as well not look at the numbers. This was all variable with temperature changes too.
Currently, with ZCo it's lining up.
On my ATACR, the clearity does not line up with parralax and its distance indicators. Might as well not look at the numbers. This was all variable with temperature changes too.
Currently, with ZCo it's lining up.
No
I’m talking about when image is clear there is parallax. When no parallax the image is terrible
If you're certain the diopter is set correctly then it isn't right.
I need to go through the adjustment procedure again. I have to screw out out pretty far for my eyes. But I never ran into this issue with my other 2.5-20s
Well if it's NF they'll tell you that you don't know how to adjust it, despite not having issues with your other same exact scopes. Ask me how I know LOL
I assume this is your new atacr 5-25? On mine I adjust the parallax so it’s free then adjust the diopter.
I do not have a 5-25
A pile of 2.5-20s and a couple 4-16x42s.
I thought diopter just did reticle focus but I guess their all intertwined
Typically I’ll point the scope at the sky or something like a solid white background. Just so your eye only focuses on the reticle and nothing else. Adjust diopter until clear
Then I’ll adjust the parallax until the image is clear and parallax is gone. Some scopes I seem to struggle on and especially if I allow my eye to strain by looking to long the parallax goes away but it’s not as focused as it could be at the same time
Generally slightly adjusting the diopter with the target in view after you set the parallax helps clear it up and brings both into focus
I only said this because one of my my NF was the only scope I had issues with and still need to fine tune it. Most I never had to come back to the diopter after initially setting it
Right or wrong hope this helps. When you do the final focus look through the optic for a couple seconds then adjust and look at something unrelated. Repeat that while adjusting. Otherwise your eye strains and attempts to correct itself. If your eye does this when using the optic you’ll fatigue quickly
"Typically I’ll point the scope at the sky or something like a solid white background. Just so your eye only focuses on the reticle and nothing else. Adjust diopter until clear"
The problem that I have doing it that way is that my eyes can adjust to the focus quite easily. So, if i do it three times, I get 3 different settings all nice and clear but parallax is wrong.
The problem that I have doing it that way is that my eyes can adjust to the focus quite easily. So, if i do it three times, I get 3 different settings all nice and clear but parallax is wrong.
Hafejd uses the same method I do. But, as I get older shit has gone sideways. Not saying you are in my boat, but I found one day that I could focus and everything was clear and parallax was tuned. Then I blinked. It was all jacked up. I went to the eye doc who was a shooter and he said “welcome to the sucks-for-you-club”. If that’s you, there’s help. If your eyes are good you got other issues. Me personally I blame the scope last and assume I’m the issue. If you get the reticle focused and then set the parallax and still have issues there’s an issue. I actually found my eye problems through my scope. Crazy, but for me the scope told on me long before my ability to read paper did. Probably because I was chasing bug holes and that level of detail is unforgiving.
Getting older sucks.
So I just took out a couple NF ATACR. One I hadn’t set up yet and the other I was messing with the other day but needed to fully correct it.
Magnification maxed out
Parallax maxed out
Pointed at clear sky
Adjusted diopter all the way in. Typically just slightly out is where is best for me on optics. The 4-20 was nowhere close to this setting from me messing with it previously. The 7-35 was factory set and off a bit
Both optics tuned in without issue. But not remaining on the gun is critical. Especially while adjusting. My eyes were instantly fighting to focus.
Magnification maxed out
Parallax maxed out
Pointed at clear sky
Adjusted diopter all the way in. Typically just slightly out is where is best for me on optics. The 4-20 was nowhere close to this setting from me messing with it previously. The 7-35 was factory set and off a bit
Both optics tuned in without issue. But not remaining on the gun is critical. Especially while adjusting. My eyes were instantly fighting to focus.
The required parallax setting changes based on ambient temperature. The warmer it gets the “less” you need, and the colder it gets the “more” you need. Scopes are calibrated at the factory at a specific temperature, and the further away from temp you are the more error you’ll have. This is not a problem with the scope, just a calibration error, and it affects all scopes.
It's a diopter adjustment issue. The procedure where you point scope to sky is not actually ideal. That just gets you half way there. You need to then fine tune the diopter while aimed at a target in your shooting position. Adjust so there's no parallax, then readjust diopter for a clear/in-focus target. Rinse/repeat a few times until both are perfect.
As someone mentioned... your eyes are capable of readjusting and you can't always control it. That is why pointing scope to sky doesn't really work. Your eyes can readjust and focus the reticle without you controlling it and you wind up with an out-of-focus reticle when you're actually shooting. The idea behind using the sky is so force your eyes to "focus at infinity" and relax. When you shoot, you don't want to be trying to make your eyes focus on the target. They should be perfectly relaxed. So when pointing at sky, you're supposed to look away and let your eyes relax, then look through scope and reticle should be instantly focused. Look away, look through scope, look away, look through scope, etc. But over time your eyes kind of do what they want.
As someone mentioned... your eyes are capable of readjusting and you can't always control it. That is why pointing scope to sky doesn't really work. Your eyes can readjust and focus the reticle without you controlling it and you wind up with an out-of-focus reticle when you're actually shooting. The idea behind using the sky is so force your eyes to "focus at infinity" and relax. When you shoot, you don't want to be trying to make your eyes focus on the target. They should be perfectly relaxed. So when pointing at sky, you're supposed to look away and let your eyes relax, then look through scope and reticle should be instantly focused. Look away, look through scope, look away, look through scope, etc. But over time your eyes kind of do what they want.
I have had this issue on several Mk5s. Easy fix on those was to adjust at 200yds to be clear to my eye, then loosen the knobs and line up the range. It think at the factory they just didn't set the turret knob for parallax on correctly.
I experienced this with a Brownells MPO 5-25 recently, never had it happen before. I set parallax at infinity, got reticle focus close with a white wall, normally this gets me really close and over time at the range I tweak it a bit, but whenever I've done this with other optics in the past target was in focus when parallax was good, or at least so close I could not notice it poorly in focus.
The MPO I did the same setup method, but the target was way out of focus at 100 when parallax was adjusted out. I could get the target and reticle to focus with parallax out, but I had to make a HUGE diopter adjustment to make it happen, and it induced a lot of fisheye effect at low/mid powers.
I even completely de-adjusted a couple other scopes and went through my process just to make sure I wasn't crazy and they adjusted fine. Did the MPO again and again got the same result. Ended up returning it. Too bad really, cause when the target and reticle was in focus, at high power in the center the image was pretty good for the price, but man you could almost give yourself motion sickness at 12x there was so much distortion/fisheye effect toward the edges at lower powers. I'm willing to bet something was messed up inside.
The MPO I did the same setup method, but the target was way out of focus at 100 when parallax was adjusted out. I could get the target and reticle to focus with parallax out, but I had to make a HUGE diopter adjustment to make it happen, and it induced a lot of fisheye effect at low/mid powers.
I even completely de-adjusted a couple other scopes and went through my process just to make sure I wasn't crazy and they adjusted fine. Did the MPO again and again got the same result. Ended up returning it. Too bad really, cause when the target and reticle was in focus, at high power in the center the image was pretty good for the price, but man you could almost give yourself motion sickness at 12x there was so much distortion/fisheye effect toward the edges at lower powers. I'm willing to bet something was messed up inside.
I own a 7-35 ATACR when shooting all the way to 1200-1500 yards my parallax is set between 600-900 and it’s perfectly clear and parallax free, I have never noticed it being an issue other than fucking with my OCD.
I went through the whole diopter set up thing and tried all the methods I could find on this site but still the same thing. If am shooting 500-600 yards and vin parallax is set at 200-300 it only really lines up when shooting groups at 100yds.
Can there be something wrong with it? Maybe but like I said other than numbers not lining up the performance is there and I have never really noticed anything when missing other than a bad wind call or me pulling a shot.
I went through the whole diopter set up thing and tried all the methods I could find on this site but still the same thing. If am shooting 500-600 yards and vin parallax is set at 200-300 it only really lines up when shooting groups at 100yds.
Can there be something wrong with it? Maybe but like I said other than numbers not lining up the performance is there and I have never really noticed anything when missing other than a bad wind call or me pulling a shot.
I have never had to do this, my diopter never needs to move. Is this normal? Or just something you have to do bc your scope or your eyes?
This older thread is similar to what I go through. Many times fine tuning the reticle afterwards. Sometimes the clearest image isn’t necessarily the perfect parallax free setting either.
My eyes are corrected better than 20/20. My eyes focus fast. So literally moving the diopter on my Nightforce what seems like a 1/4 inch and my eyes still focus on the reticle with a clear background. Bringing my head on and off the rifle fast works best.
I sometimes find eyes fighting the reticle/target clarity after. Likely because I just don’t have the diopter at the correct setting initially. Then I fine tune it at the end if needed. After that it never gets touched again.
So whatever works for you. As long as it’s correct when you’re done that’s all that matters
Rifle Scopes - Parallax questions
When a scope's parallax adjustment is adjusted for the best focus does it mean the parallax error is taken out at that point? Are there some high end scopes that have the parallax correct when the sight picture is out of focus? How are the Vortex AMG and Razor Gen 2 in this area? Thanks!
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