Curious what insurance company fellow hide members use if you have a classic car or motorcycle that doesn't really get drove or rode much? I have an older mustang and a old school chopper, that I keep insurance on. I have been using state farm for years because everything else I have is insured through them. I feel like I am paying to much for insurance for something that sits in the shop and only gets a few miles a month put on it. State farm really got under my skin recently by playing shenanigans and I am looking to change. First they send an statement that says not a bill, but has the dollar amount that the bill will be and the new insurance cards. Then weeks later they send the actual billing statement. I work out of town, so I sent them a check with the first statement because I went out of town for work before the actual bill arrived in the mail. When I get home 6 weeks later, I have a nasty gram from the state that my tag is canceled because they could not verify my insurance. When I look through the mail I see that state farm cashed my check, sends me a refund check for every penny I sent them, then literally 2 weeks later sends me another bill asking for the same exact money back, and then cancels my insurance, because I didn't pay. I called my agent when I got home and asked them WTF? Then I get a 40 dollar fine from the state before I can reinstate my tag because they say I didn't keep insurance on my bike. I don't want to use any company that is commie controlled, so curious what insurance some of y'all use?
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Classic car and motorcycle insurance
- Thread starter Hound Dog
- Start date
I’ve had great experiences using Hagerty. We had a decent earthquake a few years back and my roadster sustained some damage in the garage. They sent an inspector out, and cut a check pretty much no questions asked. They allowed me to select where to have the work done etc. I also recall being able to insure you’re car for the value that you determine within reason. No issues with them ever.
Hagerty
If you do need to file a claim and have repairs done, make damn sure that the shop you choose is on Hagerty's list of approved shops no matter how far away they may be. If not you're on your own...ask me how I know.
Hagerty worked with me, and tried coming up with a resolution with the shop I used, but they definitely were not obligated to help. The end results were not even close to satisfactory between me and the body shop. There is still work that needs done, and the paint isn't close to factory quality.
Oh, and fuck State Farm. I couldn't get away from them fast enough. Their assessed values aren't even close to reality. Find an insurance agent that sells both regular insurance and Hagerty. It makes things much easier.
If you do need to file a claim and have repairs done, make damn sure that the shop you choose is on Hagerty's list of approved shops no matter how far away they may be. If not you're on your own...ask me how I know.
Hagerty worked with me, and tried coming up with a resolution with the shop I used, but they definitely were not obligated to help. The end results were not even close to satisfactory between me and the body shop. There is still work that needs done, and the paint isn't close to factory quality.
Oh, and fuck State Farm. I couldn't get away from them fast enough. Their assessed values aren't even close to reality. Find an insurance agent that sells both regular insurance and Hagerty. It makes things much easier.
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I have, "American Modern" on my Goldwing, and I know they also offer, "Agreed Value" type insurance for classic and highly modified cars. They're part of American Family insurance.
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Who ever you go with get an appraisal first, then get it in writing for STATED VALUE.
And receipts, keep any and every receipt for each vehicle.
And receipts, keep any and every receipt for each vehicle.
you dont want stated value... you want AGREED VALUE... You and your insurer AGREE on a value and they write a policy and you pay for a policy based on that agreement.
And receipts mean little to nothing in an agreed value policy if trying to make a claim. You pay for lets say 50k of coverage, the car gets totaled, they pay you 50k... They wont pay you 50k + 5k in mods... Now if they agree the car is worth 50k at the outset of the policy and you want 55k in coverage to cover your 5k in mods, you can usually submit said receipts and they will give you the extra coverage. You can usually also add the 5k on during the policy period by doing the same thing(submitting receipts).
This year on my renewal was the first time ever my 2 cars went UP in value and the insurer asked if I wanted to add 5k to each car... sure, its like 10 bucks a month extra.
I think Grundy has been bought by Hagerty.
And Hagerty allows driving the car to work and running errands, they don't want the vehicle to be a daily driver though. I could drive my car to Georgia to the annual Mustang rally, I just let them know I'm traveling to a car show first.
You have a shitbag agent. The one thing State Farm is good at is keeping policies open unless there is some underlying circumstance like a DUI, suspended license or undeclared minor driver in the house. They do not send full refunds unless the policy has already been canceled. I prepay my bill with them all of the time, although I do not send a check I do it on their website. Your agent should have called a long time before the policy was canceled. If you call another agent and ask for the AFE (agency field executive) phone number because you have a complaint about your agent they will give the number to you. Your problem should be very easy to fix, they should also refund you the money the fine cost you if it was their fuck up that caused it.
That being said State Farm is being run by a real POS. He is running a mutual company like a publicly traded for profit company. He is an accountant that only cares about pie graphs, charts and stats. He doesn't give two shits about the people that work for the company or the customers. Moral is at an all time low and the turnover rate is out of control. Agents are independent contractors but still subject to strict company guidelines.
The only companies that offer "agreed value" policies are small specialty companies that are very expensive. Those policies require preapproved appraisals before the policy is bound, even these policies have ACV (actual cash value) clauses to prevent people from over insuring for profit.
Get a "Stated Value Policy". The customer can state any value for the car the customer requests, however everyone of these polices has a "settle at actual cash value" clause which prevents someone from over insuring property for profit. All of those polices also have an "appraisal clause" where if there is a dispute on the value the policy holder hires an appraiser, the insurance company hires an appraiser, then the two appraisers have to agree on who a third party appraiser will be. Each policy has different appraisal language but it goes something like, "If any two appraisers are with 5% of each other the settlement amount will be the average of those two. If none of the appraisers are within 5% of each other each party will hire another appraiser."
The agreed value policy on my car is $15k, and I pay $46 per month. No appraisal, just a photograph. And at $15k it is close to the top of values for that model. I've had to file a large claim on the car and it was handled, and the body shop tried totaling the it. $46 may seem expensive, but good insurance costs money.
Companies like State Farm, SafeCo, Farmers, Geico, etc will screw you any chance they get on vehicle claims and values. According to them my car is worth $5000 at most because they use blue book values, not collector values and market trends.
I got screwed by Geico on my 2000 Ford Ranger that was totaled in an accident (not my fault). I couldn't replace the truck in the same condition, same mileage, etc for what they paid me.
I have a 96 Corvette that rarely leaves the garage. It's Farm Bureau insured for $65 / year with a $1000 deductible and no mileage limit. Which doesn't mean anything as I only put on 1000 miles or so. I picked Farm Bureau because they have a local rep.
that may be wonder full depending on state and cost by i went show car and slashed my 18 year old insurance bill from 2k per year on a 2 door hot rod to 46.70 ish per 6 months with no milage restrictions and , I could drive the car unlike antique which they told me I could only drive on sunday . I went from the small show at school parking lot home to Atlantic City the car show whether there was one or my friend just lied to me to get me to drive them to the beach that weekend . All legal and it was a joy compared to normal car insurance which kept going up and up it did not change on my 46.70 ish per 6 months to start and 8 years later it was still 46.70 ish . I tried to keep it on the car even after i had to take it off the road , I did not think they would sell it to me again at that price .
I've been with State Farm for almost 50 years, never had a problem with them and always have had great service from my agent (if I didn't, I would switch agents). I recently acquired a 50 year old car. Registered it "normally" since PA has a 3 month backlog for antique plates. They asked what value I want the car insured, and quoted the price based on that.
TBH, if I was going to be away for 6 weeks and knew I was going to miss the bill when it was sent, I would have contacted my agent to make arrangements for the payment.
TBH, if I was going to be away for 6 weeks and knew I was going to miss the bill when it was sent, I would have contacted my agent to make arrangements for the payment.
unless your policy states this is the payout in the event of a total loss they will fuck you.
I also have a 96 and have an agreed value policy with Grundy for 15k, but like I said earlier they said this year that car values had gone up and we could add 5k on to the agreed value so I did. So as of next month I will have a 20k dollar agreed value policy on it.
I use Rally Insurance for an oddball street car. They're underwritten by American Modern. I didn't get an appraisal but the agreed value is $50k. Supplied VIN and photos. Limited to 3000 miles a year, which rolls over. Not supposed to drive it to work, no racing, all drivers 25 or older, etc. Got a discount for being in the collector's club... Price hasn't changed in 10 years.
Grundy/hagerty/progressive/geico/state farm/all state/farmers/AIG and about a dozen others wouldn't insure it.
Grundy/hagerty/progressive/geico/state farm/all state/farmers/AIG and about a dozen others wouldn't insure it.
