cleaning a rocksetted muzzle device

[kravi]

Hey folks,

So I'm trying to figure out how to best clean the muzzle device on my bolt action rifle. I'm running a q cherry bomb (actually the new version which has the wrench flats on it, but same difference) on it which I fixed to the barrel with rockset. I'm trying to figure out how to best clean it as when I'm cleaning the barrel (obviously with the cherry bomb still attached), I can see that there is plenty of carbon which turns into a black paste as I'm shoving patches through. I have two concerns. The first is when I put my rifle away, I don't like that idea that the cherry bomb has cleaning solvent and lots of carbon that may drip down the barrel as I store it. The second is that, because I run a can, I don't want to have a muzzle device that isn't fixed to the barrel, hence the rockset.

My current method is to roll up some paper towel and simply try to dry the inside of the muzzle device when I'm done with my rifle cleaning. I don't think that does a very good job of cleaning the cherry bomb, but it does seem to mop up enough liquid that nothing dribbles down the barrel when I return it to the safe.

I was thinking of maybe using a plastic cup filled with rubbing alcohol to dip the muzzle device into to get rid of all the extraneous cleaning gunk and liquid, but I don't think that would actually clean the device.

Thoughts?
Cheers!

 

[Mike Casselton]

Chlorine free brake cleaner.

I don't roksett mine on anymore.
They are screwed on to the barrel and given about 80in/lb or torque.
Haven't had one come loose yet.
I also don't smoke the supressor on. It isn't necessary with the taper mount.

Take the CB off and place it in a small glass with CLR.
Go clean your rifle.
Brush the CB clean. Rinse it with water and hit it with brake kleen.
Done.

 

[FuhQ]

Hot water and dawn dish soap.

I would NOT use CLR on anything with a nitrided or phosphate finish, it will literally eat the finish off the muzzle device. About the only safe finish for CLR is bare metal or cerakote.

 

[Mike Casselton]

I have no idea what the finish on a Cherry Bomb is, but I doubt it's anything like nitriding or phosphate.
They come out of the package looking like cheap bronze. I've been doing this for about 4 years on a half dozen of them.
They come out clean and bright.

 

[mebgardner]

If the device is Rocksett onto the barrel, then I would not remove it. Leave that threaded device on there until you have no choice but to remove it. I believe the advice already given here tho. IMO, no need to use rocksett. 60-80 ft lbs, using a Midwest Industries URR type (it holds the "sail" in place, and the M4 Extension, and therefore does not allow twist on the barrel pin), and a calibrated torque wrench. But, I also use anti seize on the device threads that mount the suppressor, and I use thin narrow wrenches on the range when dismounting the can. That helps keep the muzzle device from unthreading from the barrel inadvertantly, since I dont use rocksett. So, mounting is: anti-seize, then thread it on, then 2 good ugga-duggas with hands. If can is new, then I use a Gieselle rod to check runout. Then, send it. Taking it off is two wrenches, twist and unthread it. Pretty simple and easy. I *could* take the muzzle device off to clean, but I choose not to. It does not seem to make a difference when I'm sending them. So far, I have not damaged a muzzle, and I dont ever get carbon locked cans. This sequence works for me, and its simple and easy.

To clean the muzzle device while its on the barrel, I'm doing the same thing you are: A triple folded patch dipped in (solvent of your choice), instead of a paper towel: too easy to tear that. Then, carefully take a jewellers screwdriver and press it in place from the muzzle end. Then swabb and push the patch along the muzzle (careful!) using the tiny screwdriver. This dislodges the gunk and sops up the juice in there. Then, grab the patch with a needlenose and pull it back out, or dig it out via the side ports. Patch down the barrel again from the breech end, to clear the muzzle of the debris dislodged. Looking at the muzzle end, it still looks horrible, filthy in there. But, I'm unwilling to risk damage to the muzzle by anything more severe.

 

[kravi]

If the device is Rocksett onto the barrel, then I would not remove it. Leave that threaded device on there until you have no choice but to remove it.
[snip]
To clean the muzzle device while its on the barrel, I'm doing the same thing you are: A triple folded patch dipped in (solvent of your choice), instead of a paper towel: too easy to tear that. Then, carefully take a jewellers screwdriver and press it in place from the muzzle end. Then swabb and push the patch along the muzzle (careful!) using the tiny screwdriver. This dislodges the gunk and sops up the juice in there. Then, grab the patch with a needlenose and pull it back out, or dig it out via the side ports. Patch down the barrel again from the breech end, to clear the muzzle of the debris dislodged. Looking at the muzzle end, it still looks horrible, filthy in there. But, I'm unwilling to risk damage to the muzzle by anything more severe.

Gracias. I'll swap to patches, thanks for the tip. If I start noticing accuracy issues I'll then deal with removing it.

Cheers!

 

[mebgardner]

Gracias. I'll swap to patches, thanks for the tip. If I start noticing accuracy issues I'll then deal with removing it.

Cheers!

Welcome! I included the details of how I handle the can mount / dismount at the range so you would know what I did to keep the muzzle device from coming off, and to keep the can interface (Plan B / HUB Bravo / etc) from carbon locking, and subsequently unlocking the muzzle device inadvertantly.

I mis-wrote the muzzle device torque that I use with no locking compounds. I had a re-look at my build notes, and see that I use 40-50 ft lbs, not 60-80. There is a thread on this forum, an introductory thread, where I ask for some help, and part of the help that I got was a discussion of how the barrel muzzle deforms when torquing the muzzle device onto it. This is a long range forum, and so things associated with long range performance do come up. In that thread, a fellow seemingly well schooled in metallurgy and physics wrote about throat compression / restriction and how it affected downrange accuracy. My takeaway was, this does indeed happen and more muzzle device torque was not always better. There was some back and forth about the idea, and it seemed to become dividing. The discussion went far to impress upon me to handle the muzzle end of the barrel very carefully. So, many will use a torque spec of 40 ft lbs for a device when using thread lockers. There is another dividing topic about how well the "analog" of measuring torque can be accurately performed, and how much that system changes when using thread lockers and / or anti seize compounds.

All to say: Oops, I use 40-50 ft lbs on a muzzle device, and no thread locker or antiseize for this steel / steel "muzzle to device" interface. I use tools to unlock a can from muzzle devices, and I dont allow the muzzle device to move during the removal of the can. I do use a high temp antiseize on all other interface threads (other than muzzle to device): muzzle device to adaptor, and adaptor to can posterior. Its a white paste about the consistency of toothpaste. I can get you the part number of it, if you want it. Happy New Year!

 

[kravi]

Thanks bud, for the 411. I believe I went for 30 or 35 when I put my CB, because I was using rockset and knew about how lubricity effects torque specs. Still don't want to take it off

I'm running a Jumbo Shrimp on my 6.5cm rifle, so there is no hub mount or other adapter. Just a direct thread from the jumbo shrimp to the cherry bomb. So I only really need to worry about the torqueing of the CB.

I have a universal adapter which "kinda" fits over the end of the CB, but I can't find an actual hex bit that is thin enough to work. I believe that Q used to make a hex bit for their devices, but I can't find them on their site or anywhere else for that matter. Oh well, I'll keep wrestling with the universal adapater bit thing.

Cheers!

 

[black5.3]

I leave my muzzle devices on until i have to absolutely take them off for whatever reason. I use the long handled q tips, like the medical ones, to put solvent on my crown and then dry it out with new dry q tips. Easy button.

 

[Baron23]

I use the long handled q tips

This ^^. Q-tips belong on any cleaning bench. Keeps your ears clean too! hahaha

 

[black5.3]

This ^^. Q-tips belong on any cleaning bench. Keeps your ears clean too! hahaha

Works for AR BCG’s, barrel extensions, and other tight little spots that need attention too.