Cleaning JP Adjustable Gas Block?
- Thread starter MMH
- Start date
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for gas blocks and brakes when they get bad. I put the block in a small glass jar/beaker and use a small amount of solvent inside the beaker.... breaks down all of the carbon pretty quickly.
Finish with a quick squirt of brake cleaner and then compressed air.
Finish with a quick squirt of brake cleaner and then compressed air.
I assume you remove the block from the barrel to do this. How often do you do this? I use my rifle as a DMR and do not do mag dumps, etc.
Correct - Remove it from the barrel.
For me it's not very often it's removed, typically when adjustments freeze or it's not adjusting correctly. The only other time I would do it is a barrel change/swap.
Other than that, little reason to clean
For me it's not very often it's removed, typically when adjustments freeze or it's not adjusting correctly. The only other time I would do it is a barrel change/swap.
Other than that, little reason to clean
Thanks. I'll leave mine alone. Rifle runs great - suppressed & unsuppressed. Just giving it a thorough cleaning and wanted to ask on the gas block. Again, use as a DMR/PRS gun. Rapid fire for me is 10 rounds in 2min.30sec.
I don't have a JP gas block but I do have adjustable ones.
By far the easiest way clean them is to put a few drops of BoreTech C4 on them over a couple of days.
For example on the parts that move orient the rifle so the liquid can penetrate. The next day wipe it all off and do it again if needed.
Of course you should try to adjust the block a few clicks throughout the process to make sure it can move.
The caveat to all of this that you don't need to clean them at all unless you actually need to adjust away from your current settings.
Edit: No need to remove the block from the barrel. At worst you need to remove the hand guard.
I was going to say that you would want to click the settings up and down and then back to your settings that you want. There is no reason to take apart the gun other than maybe the hand guard.
Keep in mind that the process will take a couple days depending on how much carbon is in there. Couple drops. Come back tomorrow and wipe it down. Test. Couple more drops. Come back the next day. Wipe it down. Repeat as needed.
For me I like to tinker around with reloading, especially in 300BLK. It's nice to be able to adjust in that scenario particularly with subs.
On other rifles, generally no. That is unless I change up a load or something (maybe).
As long as you put a drop or two of a good oil on the screw every couple hundred rounds, they don't seize in my experience. Well, that and cranking them in and out a set number of clicks (4 in, 4 out , and back to my setting). Matter of fact, I need to do this again....
