Cleaning Oils

[GoatLD259]

Good Morning Hide

I have always used CLP on my firearms to clean them, and also leave a coat in the bolt and bcg for lubrication and protectant. But, my friend has recently told me about this product:

Products

Extant Labs is an innovative chemistry research and development company specializing in aerospace-grade lubricants and cleaning products for sporting, outdoors, and defense applications. Home of ECHO TWO-FIVE E-CLP and ALPHA SAUCE lubricants, and BREAK CONTACT low-VOC cleaner/degreaser.

www.extantlabs.com

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff at all?

Also, people tell me it’s not good to leave a light coat of CLP in the barrel? Is this true? In the Marine Corps, all we used was CLP.

Goat

 

[PJ65C]

Havent heard of that company. I'll give them a look, always like reading something new.

Ive used Breakfree mil-spec CLP and powder blast for many years and never had a problem with it in any capacity.

 

[GoatLD259]

Havent heard of that company. I'll give them a look, always like reading something new.

Ive used Breakfree mil-spec CLP and powder blast for many years and never had a problem with it in any capacity.

Is there a big difference between breakfree CLP and just CLP?

Also, how heavy a coat of it do you leave on the BCG and bolt after cleaning? I know too much can attract debris, right? And, is it ok to leave a light coat of it in the barrel?

Goat

 

[GH41]

I have used Breakfree CLP since it was Rand CLP.

 

[308pirate]

Oil is oil. I use whatever I can get the easiest. Typically motor oil and automotive grease for lubrication and a very light penetrating oil for cleaning. Auto parts stores will have all you need.

Nothing wrong with leaving a light film of oil in the bore as corrosion protection during storage. Just patch it out before you shoot.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

No experience with the stuff, and I can't find anything on their site that elaborates on their "thousands of MICROSCOPIC BALL BEARINGS" loaded into their oil/gel mixture... I'd be interested to know a little more about that before I dive into it. I personally just run a very light grease for most sliding surfaces, and boretech cleaner for carbon. The boretech has made cleaning much quicker IME.

The military uses CLP because regs and it's in the supply system. There's nothing wrong with leaving some in the barrel, but you may want to patch it out before you start shooting again.

 

[slowworm]

In my experience, CLP is not good for any long term storage for the safe queens. The solvents help the oil evaporate over time leaving the surface vulnerable to rust.

I don't buy into the "magic fairy dust premium oil" stuff at all. I use boring old Hoppes gun oil, 10w30, or good old ATF.

who uses automatic transmission fluid as lubricant | Sniper's Hide Forum

I do use CLP in my field cleaning kit, mainly because the little bottles fit in the case nicely and not because of magic properties. I usually bench clean with rods, so a small bottle lasts a very long time.

As for how much, most people over lube their firearms. Oil just attracts dust to make a nice paste. Less is more, you only need a drop or two on the lugs and raceway.

If you are putting them up for a while, then a thicker coat over all rust prone surfaces is a good idea. Just wipe it down well before use and re-apply just what's needed.

 

[BullGear]

Haven't heard of it and haven't seen it at any of the gun shows.

 

[Jigstick]

It’s all snake oil. You don’t need fancy boutique shit to clean and lube a firearm.

 

[GoatLD259]

Ok. Thank you for all your responses. What about experiences with Slip 2000? And, what would be the better choice of the options?

Just the plain lube?
EWL?
EWL30?
EWG?
If I use the EWL, is the EWG necessary?

Being that CLP evaporates over time, is it best just to store a barrel of a firearm dry? I have boretech eliminator, that is ammonia free. Would this be safe to leave a coat on the barrel for storage?

Goat

 

[CoryT]

CLP is like MRE, three lies for the price of one. It does not clean, it's not a solvent. It barely lubricates nor does it protect, you can look at any number of product tests on Youtube, it might be an improvement over bare steel, but not by much.

Use a quality powder solvent for cleaning. Shooter's Choice, Butch's Bore Shine, Wipe-out all work well. If the bore is plain bare chrome-moly and you live in a high humidity or coastal area, a light coat of machine oil or Corrosion-X will prevent rust. External surfaces subject to rust can get the same, or Renaissance Wax. Prior to shooting, run a couple patches of denatured alcohol through the bore to remove the preventative coating.

For a general lubricant, Ford ATF is hard to beat. It's a high temp, high pressure lube that works very well. Where a grease is indicated, I personally use TW-25B, primarily because I got a ton of it for free. Any decent automotive grease will work fine. Most all of the special high tech firearms lubes are what I refer to as money exchange devices, they make your money someone else's. If you looked at the cost per ounce compared to an automotive grease can you'd have a heart attack.

 

[Jigstick]

Boretech eliminator, Sweets, and Hornady 1 shot is all you need for just about any firearm.

if you have an M1A, Garand, AK, or anything else that requires grease then pick up some MilComm TW25B.

 

[Baron23]

Have used breakfree for a very long time in waterfowl semi shotguns. Couple of drops will free up the action in freezing temps. Seems to work very well.

I run a patch w Kroil if rust prevention is desired for rifle

 

[BullGear]

I can post the recipe for Ed's Red if anyone is interested.

 

[krimet]

Ok. Thank you for all your responses. What about experiences with Slip 2000? And, what would be the better choice of the options?

Just the plain lube?
EWL?
EWL30?
EWG?
If I use the EWL, is the EWG necessary?

Being that CLP evaporates over time, is it best just to store a barrel of a firearm dry? I have boretech eliminator, that is ammonia free. Would this be safe to leave a coat on the barrel for storage?

Goat

I have had really good luck with EWG and EWL. I was a sporting clays and upland guy long before I was into precision rifle. So, I first started using it on my over/under and semi-auto shotguns. I bounced back and forth depending on the particular part/purpose. For example, I would use EWG on my over/under ejectors and hinge pins. Alternatively, I would use a light coat of EWL on my A400 firing pin and spring. The cool thing is that they're compatible so you can actually mix them to reach a custom viscosity if those two products don't do what you want.

 

[akmike47]

I used to use lube "made for guns" now I just use a good synthetic 10w-30 for lube. If I want it thicker I have a high temp grease and oil mix that's about like honey.

I do have some Lucas gun oil in my range bag I was given it seems alright but smells fruity.

 

[Aftermath]

I used to use lube "made for guns" now I just use a good synthetic 10w-30 for lube. If I want it thicker I have a high temp grease and oil mix that's about like honey.

I do have some Lucas gun oil in my range bag I was given it seems alright but smells fruity.

There are folks all over the earth using diesel fuel drained from a vehicle to clean and oil off the dipstick for lube to keep their AK's running and it works just fine.
If I recall that test, WD40 was some real good shit. I use their long term corrosion stuff for safe queens and firearms I don't plan to use for more than a week.

 

[RGStory]

This website is worth reading... a fairly detailed experiment on the lubricity and rust prevention characteristics of 46 different products.

https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation.106776/#post-1570721

That Article was awesome. I don't know who that is, but I appreciate what he did there. Thanks for sharing Tono.

 

[clcustom1911]

Ok. Thank you for all your responses. What about experiences with Slip 2000? And, what would be the better choice of the options?

Just the plain lube?
EWL?
EWL30?
EWG?
If I use the EWL, is the EWG necessary?

Being that CLP evaporates over time, is it best just to store a barrel of a firearm dry? I have boretech eliminator, that is ammonia free. Would this be safe to leave a coat on the barrel for storage?

Goat

"Cleaner" (solvent) and "oil" shouldn't be lumped together. They are two different chemical compounds used for two different purposes. The reason the military largely uses CLP for line-level troops' personal weapons is because it simplifies logistics. It does lubricate and clean reasonably well, but performs neither function truly well... hence why the Powers That Be make The Troops clean their weapons so often (and to take up spare time... nothing like spending 3 hours at the armory cleaning rifles you just cleaned two weeks ago, haven't used since then, and somehow are always literally and figuratively "still dirty" with carbon LOL).

Militec-1 or Mobil-1 10w-30, or Lucas 75-90 gear oil (or mixture of all 3) for general lubrication/light coat for long term storage are my personal go-to. Militec-1 grease or Mobil 1 grease for lugs on a bolt gun.

I actually do a 50/50 mix of Militec-1 and Mobil 1. A quart of each and you'll have enough lube for a lifetime

Most of the time, lube is lube. But to actually break down carbon I use standard MPro7 or Hoppes 9, dry off, then lube up. I've been really happy with that stuff when I actually use it to clean off 800-1000 rounds of gunk off my AR's when I do feel like cleaning them LOL

 

[clcustom1911]

This website is worth reading... a fairly detailed experiment on the lubricity and rust prevention characteristics of 46 different products.

https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation.106776/#post-1570721

View attachment 7560224


An image from one of the corrosion tests:

View attachment 7560223

Great article, I have some issues with the testing/validation methods, but still has a large amount of pretty good information for others to use to make decisions.

 

[TheGerman]

Mobil 1 ATF mix for oil

Boretech in whatever flavor (copper, carbon) you want for the bore

Done

In a semi, its more important to clean the chamber than it is to lube. Cleaning everything else is basically optional.

 

[308pirate]

Ok. Thank you for all your responses. What about experiences with Slip 2000? And, what would be the better choice of the options?

Just the plain lube?
EWL?
EWL30?
EWG?
If I use the EWL, is the EWG necessary?

Being that CLP evaporates over time, is it best just to store a barrel of a firearm dry? I have boretech eliminator, that is ammonia free. Would this be safe to leave a coat on the barrel for storage?

Goat

You're really overthinking this by falling for marketing hype.

 

[Jigstick]

That was my point from the beginning. You’re mostly paying for fancy labels and advertising.

Hornady 1 Shot is by far the best lube and rust preventer I’ve come across. Great for pistols because it drys. Doesn’t leave and oily residue to attract dirt and gum up pistol trigger groups.

MilCom TW25B is slicker than shit on anything requiring grease. A little on the bolt lugs goes a long way.

 

[BullGear]

No one interested in Ed's Red???

 

[salks]

For cleaning bores I really like bore tech eliminator. One of my rifles came with a tube of greese in a little syringe I find that very handy for applying. For pistols I will use some type of spray cleaner for the hard to reach places. Things like clp and balistol work good for cleaning if you let them sit. For oil i have fp-10. Modern firearms have a much more durable finishes that resist corrosion. My older stuff i keep wiped down... when I was young my uncle had really nice rifles we would shoot one of the rules was to never touch the blued surface with your bare hand the sweat from your hand could cause rust.