cleaning rimfires

[cgmaster1]

I have not had any real problems ever cleaning rifles or 22 rifles but I ended up with one that the barrel was so fouled you could hardly see the lands. Near the throat the lands were totaly obscured. I tried cleaning this one using everything I had in my toolbox and I was not getting anywhere fast. I had been working on this on and off for about 2 months soaking, scrubbing and letting it sit overnight and do the same the next day. Durring that time I was aslo out of town for a few weeks andhad someone else working on it. Well the other day I got home and had an older friend come over who told me a trick. Use Easy Off in the blue can. It worked better than any other product I have ever tried. After 3 times soaking, scrubbing and cleaning the patch came back clean. I also used hopes #9 between the Easy Off and after. After I inspected the bore it still looked good. This was an old target rifle I got.

Anyway after I tried on a Colt AR-15 I had on the bench which I already field cleaned. I let the Easy off soak in after scrubbing it in, scrubbed a little more and and ran a patch. It looked like more carbon fouling came out and the patch came out looking like new. This is something new I just tried yesterday but I plan to try it on some other stuff in the future.

Also if you are worrind about finishes being damaged I tried this on a blued rifle and parkerizing. I let it sit on both with no damage. I did not try it on wood or any other finish yet. Today when I get back to the shop I plan on trying it on a few other surfaces and a few of my other rifles I have at the shop.

 

[Alderleet]

Re: cleaning rimfires

You could have also tried "the dip" to remove the lead buildup if conventional methods werent working.

Good to know on the Easy Out though.

 

[Nocalphoenix]

Re: cleaning rimfires

Ok, what is "the dip"? Never had a real lead problem with .22 but my pistols with cast bullets are another headache I need fixed.

 

[RicosRevenge]

Re: cleaning rimfires

Mine is Skoal Mint Longcut...

 

[paraman1]

Re: cleaning rimfires

Mike Gibson of MGM targets taught me this when I was first starting to shoot USPSA . This is listed under "Mike Thoughts" on the MGM website and I blatantly copied and pasted it . Some folks will say it is bad juju but I have used it on heavily fouled .22's and followed it up with some nitro solvent and oil . I have been doing this for 10 years and haven't managed to destroy any of my firearms .

<span style="font-weight: bold">For HEAVY leading, 50% white vinegar mixed with 50% hydrogen peroxide. Put an ear plug in the chamber end, stand the barrel on end, (good luck with your revolver) fill it to the top with the mixture, and set the timer on the stove for 15 minutes. Dump it out, run a patch wrapped around an old wire brush through it, and you're good to go. If not quite clean, do it again for another 15 minutes. I don't know why this stuff works, so I wouldn't leave it in there for more than 15 minutes at a time, and I make sure it is completely out of the barrel before I put my patches away. Maybe even run an "oil rinse" through it. Or Nitro Solvent, if you really miss the smell.</span>

 

[TCKev]

Re: cleaning rimfires

Kroil!! The Revolver guys at our local matches swear by it to remove lead from there barrel's

 

[ggmanning]

Re: cleaning rimfires

I use Kroil also. I dont clean my bores often but I soak my suppressor in Kroil and it does a good job with lead.

 

[DamnYuppie]

Re: cleaning rimfires

+1 for kroil.

 

[rpk762]

Re: cleaning rimfires

I like Kriol but on 6mmbr I saw an article about this new product that will remove lead from your barrel. Looked pretty good. I cannot find it right now.

 

[BARTMAN]

Re: cleaning rimfires

I have plugged the muzzle and filled the barrel with kroil and let set overnight.

 

[tminc]

Re: cleaning rimfires

Kroil will work,it's great stuff

 

[dksac2]

Re: cleaning rimfires

The JB Bore Cleaner is great for badly fouled 22 bores. I has a 22 LR like yours, I used lead remover, Shooters choice and finally JB Bore cleaner followed by JB Bore shine. Both great products and if used properly, will not hurt the bore.
I got a good part of the fouling out then went to the JB, followed by more lead remover, shooters Choice and Kroil, I finished up with JB Bore shine.
This was on a Savage M-19, made in 1919, the rifle now shoots in the high .2" range @ 50 Yds and if I get better shooting conditions and scope, I think it
will shoot smaller. I was using a 1930's, 4X Wallensek scope.

On some RF and CF rifles, it's the only way to get fouling out. I also used lots of Kroil. You must be very careful not to use anything that will etch or pit the bore. Anything with Amonia in it should be avoided, it will etch or pit a bore.
As a retired gunsmith, I have scoped a lot of bores and have seen the damage done by amonia cleaners. Stay away from the home brewed boore cleaners, some will damage the bore. These home made cleaners will damage a bore.
I'm sure I'll be attacked for my views, but years of being a smith and cleaning bores, I know what works and have scoped enough bores to back up my post.
If you think I'm full of crap, call Ed Shillen, he will back up what I've posted.

The lead remover is made by Shooters Choice, it works slowly on badly fould bores, but it does work. The Kroil is excellent, never be afraid to use lots of it, it gets under the fouling, making it far easier to remove.
Your weapon is worth spending the time and effort on. Go easy on the JB, it is a super fine abrasive, finer than Jewelers Rouge, but too much is not good. Use it in a scrubbing motion, it's the only thing I'll scrub with. The JB Bore shine is even much finer tan the regular JB. It's great stuff for smoothing out the rough spots in a new barrel. If you can feel the rough spots, and it takes experience to do so, you work the rough spots and polish the entire bore, no more than about 5 minutes. The rifle will shoot better, I have seen major reductions in group size with the JB Bore Shine used to smooth out a production barrel.
Custom barrels should already be hard lapped and be smooth. The JB is used as a soft lap, not on a pored slug hard lap.

My Best, John K

 

[dksac2]

Re: cleaning rimfires

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Michael N</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mike Gibson of MGM targets taught me this when I was first starting to shoot USPSA . This is listed under "Mike Thoughts" on the MGM website and I blatantly copied and pasted it . Some folks will say it is bad juju but I have used it on heavily fouled .22's and followed it up with some nitro solvent and oil . I have been doing this for 10 years and haven't managed to destroy any of my firearms .

<span style="font-weight: bold">For HEAVY leading, 50% white vinegar mixed with 50% hydrogen peroxide. Put an ear plug in the chamber end, stand the barrel on end, (good luck with your revolver) fill it to the top with the mixture, and set the timer on the stove for 15 minutes. Dump it out, run a patch wrapped around an old wire brush through it, and you're good to go. If not quite clean, do it again for another 15 minutes. I don't know why this stuff works, so I wouldn't leave it in there for more than 15 minutes at a time, and I make sure it is completely out of the barrel before I put my patches away. Maybe even run an "oil rinse" through it. Or Nitro Solvent, if you really miss the smell.</span> </div></div>

I would never put these things in my bore, for 15 minutes or 15 seconds, it may clean the bore, but it will damage it also, there are better and correct ways to clean a bore. They may take a little more work, but what's your gun worth?
Unless you have scoped the bore before and after, you don't know if it hurt the bore or not. After time of doing this, you may think the accuracy is going away just from use, but the damage will slowly hurt the bore.
It's your rifle, do as you wish, but I don't like seeing posts like this as others can hurt their bore. Stay to the known ways, call Ed Shillen if you realy want to find out what works. Match barrels are different from production barrels and do need slighty different methods. The barrel is the heart of the rifle, treat it properly and it will shoot well for a long time.
On CF rifles, just staying away from max loads can double the amount of rounds you can shoot without wear in the leade killing the accuracy, another 100 or 150 FPS will not make a difference in whatever type of shooting you are doing except maybe 600 and 1000 yard.

John K