Converting my TL3 barrels to Origin, anything I need to know?

JayMazee

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Minuteman
Oct 13, 2010
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Rocky Mountains
I have some Proof TL3 barrels. Aero Solus (Accepts Origin barrels) action.

I'd like to convert the barrels for Solus, but can not use the HLR adapter (https://huntslongrange.com/product/hlr-origin-0-150-thick-recoil-lug/?v=0b3b97fa6688) as the unlike the Origin the Solus has an integrated recoil lug.

I can't see any reason that I can not have my competent machinist take exactly .100" off the shank stop face.

Am I wrong? Is there anything else my machinist would need to know?
 
I have some Proof TL3 barrels. Aero Solus (Accepts Origin barrels) action.

I'd like to convert the barrels for Solus, but can not use the HLR adapter (https://huntslongrange.com/product/hlr-origin-0-150-thick-recoil-lug/?v=0b3b97fa6688) as the unlike the Origin the Solus has an integrated recoil lug.

I can't see any reason that I can not have my competent machinist take exactly .100" off the shank stop face.

Am I wrong? Is there anything else my machinist would need to know?
It's not as simple as just setting the tenon back. They'll have to take 0.100" off the tenon AND set the chamber back that 0.100".

For all the manual work it will require, it may not be cost effective to go that route. But, it's always worth the question to a capable smith.

Thanks - Ray
 
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It's not as simple as just setting the tenon back. They'll have to take 0.100" off the tenon AND set the chamber back that 0.100".

For all the manual work it will require, it may not be cost effective to go that route. But, it's always worth the question to a capable smith.

Thanks - Ray

Well that sure is a pain. I thought I remember it just being the tenon. OK. Thanks for the info. I'll talk to my gunsmith.

And I'll also check with RW Synder.
 
Well that sure is a pain. I thought I remember it just being the tenon. OK. Thanks for the info. I'll talk to my gunsmith.

And I'll also check with RW Synder.
I misled you originally because I read it incorrectly. Taking a TL3 pre-fit to an Origin pre-fit is considerably easier than what I laid out. You only need to set the shoulder back 0.100" to make a TL3-SA pre-fit work on an Origin. The chamber does not need to be recut.

Sorry for the confusion, coffee hadn't kicked in at that point!

Thanks - Ray
 
I misled you originally because I read it incorrectly. Taking a TL3 pre-fit to an Origin pre-fit is considerably easier than what I laid out. You only need to set the shoulder back 0.100" to make a TL3-SA pre-fit work on an Origin. The chamber does not need to be recut.

Sorry for the confusion, coffee hadn't kicked in at that point!

Thanks - Ray

Well that makes a LOT more sense. OK. I'll get some nicer go-no gauges for a safety check and will see where they time out for the engraving that will need fixing anyhow.
 
Well that makes a LOT more sense. OK. I'll get some nicer go-no gauges for a safety check and will see where they time out for the engraving that will need fixing anyhow.
It's a 0.100" shoulder set back only and the threads are 0.050" per turn, so if the machinist hits that dimension exactly it will time out exactly. In reality if they're within 2 thou in either direction it will be within headspace and the engraving will time up within the normal window required.
 
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It's a 0.100" shoulder set back only and the threads are 0.050" per turn, so if the machinist hits that dimension exactly it will time out exactly. In reality if they're within 2 thou in either direction it will be within headspace and the engraving will time up within the normal window required.
Thanks for that! I gave them to my machinist and he's phenomenal but I was worried exactly how dead to rights perfect that dimension had to be. If it was 2 thou off he would commit seppuku with it, so I'm confident!
 
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