Rifle Scopes Correct ring tightening sequence help

[7magsavage]

I'm mounting my new ATACR and I have the Nightforce Ultralight rings with the six screws each. What would the correct tightening sequence be? Thanks in advance for any help guys.

Steve

 

[jdgray]

Just be sure your gaps are equal on both sides, and get them all snug, torque to specs. I would start in the center, and criss cross on the outer screws.

 

[samnev]

I do the same procedure except in reverse. crisscross fist then center screws. Make sure you torque the screws properly. Most call for 15-20 inch pounds. Don't forget the blue loctite.

 

[FailureToStart]

5 1 3
Scope
4 2 6

I use the same cross/star pattern I'd use on a 6 bolt vehicle wheel. Since scope rings require (in my opinion) a little more care, I usually set the gap even then get screw #2 just barely touching the ring - I then tighten the pattern starting with 1 to 'finger tight', then 10in-lbs then 18in-lbs. I then go back over them all to verify 18in-lbs.

For 4 screw arrangements I use:

1 3
Scope
4 2

I've personally found that you can actually make very minor (<1degree) cant adjustments by setting the cap basically level with the reticle so one side is a bit low. I get the screws touching on the "low" side first, finger tight the 'high' side fully, then back off off the screws on the low side slightly and re-tighten the 'high' side.

 

[7magsavage]

Thanks for the input guys. I really appreciate it.

 

[scudzuki]

5 1 3
Scope
4 2 6

I use the same cross/star pattern I'd use on a 6 bolt vehicle wheel. Since scope rings require (in my opinion) a little more care, I usually set the gap even then get screw #2 just barely touching the ring - I then tighten the pattern starting with 1 to 'finger tight', then 10in-lbs then 18in-lbs. I then go back over them all to verify 18in-lbs.

For 4 screw arrangements I use:

1 3
Scope
4 2

I've personally found that you can actually make very minor (<1degree) cant adjustments by setting the cap basically level with the reticle so one side is a bit low. I get the screws touching on the "low" side first, finger tight the 'high' side fully, then back off off the screws on the low side slightly and re-tighten the 'high' side.

Agree with everything, including fine tuning the leveling of the scope with the scope cap screws, except that I do 4 ring caps
13
Scope
24

Joe

 

[FailureToStart]

13
Scope
24

Would probably be just fine, and honestly I'm not 100% sure if I don't sometimes do

14
Scope
32

I did however forget the most important part - I start by putting the rings on the rifle (in all of my cases some sort of 1913 rail and Badger Ordnance rings)

I oil all of the rail/ring contact surfaces and the nut/side clamp interface with something legit like Mobil1 gear oil. Seat the rings in their grooves as far foward as they will go (like a recoil lug) and tighten the nut finger tight. I usually then wiggle the clamp around a bit to see if its canted or bound in any way and re-tighten. Then I tighten the nuts to - going strictly off memory - 35in-lbs then 50in-lbs then 55in-lbs (or 70in-lbs and 75in-lbs).

I usually use an alcohol prep pad on the inside surface of the rings, and I make sure to keep the caps in the same orientation they came from the factory in.

I rarely loctite my ring screws, especially not with steel screws and aluminum rings. IF I decide to loctite them, I will tighten everything to around 15in-lbs then pull them out one at a time and loctite it and then return it to 15in-lbs. Once I've done an entire ring, I'll fully tighten to 18in-lbs. I absolutely do not loctite on the first run just in case I screw something up.

Funny that I don't loctite my ring screws when I basically bed R700 rails (that don't need actual bedding) with red loctite to keep that area from rusting.