Couple of noob questions on rings

[Jglitch]

First post, I've been browsing this page for a while but never made an account. I'll make it simple since I've seen a dozen or so posts like this but mines very specific. I bought a sig cross while I'm waiting to move and I've been trying to get everything together before I receive it so I can take off that weekend and go sight it in but everywhere locally tries selling me overpriced generic garbage that sits a quarter inch or more over the barrel, whereas I've seen most builds on here they're almost touching.

My question is am I overthinking it or is there a specific reason why I always see people say as low to the barrel as possible. I don't have the rifle until next week so I have no way of measuring anything but I know I didn't want to pay 100$ for rings that felt like they weighed half a pound that were listed as high with no measurements.

The scope I have for the rifle is an Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 as I saw it was a semi decent budget recommendation on here my only bummer was to find out they weren't made in Japan but made in china lol. I see that has a 30mm tube diameter with a 50mm objective so my question really boils down to this, I want to order the mounts online this week what measurements should I look for/what do you normally measure on that rifle or from where/what can you guys recommend to a first timer I do sec work so all my knowledge is in handguns and carbine this long range shooting I'm taking up on my own as a lot of other things and before I jump to professional help I want to see what I can learn or teach myself with other people's wisdom. Since I don't have the rifle with me I'm kind of relying on someone who has it or enough smiting experience or technical knowledge to point me in the right direction.

Apologies ahead of time if this exact post has been made a dozen times I'm too retarded to navigate these forums for what I'm trying to figure out.

 

[Jglitch]

That's fucking cool the minuteman tag haha

 

[OREGUN]

“As low to the bore as possible” is an outdated concept that was a hold-over from iron sights Shot from standing positions. You want rings that are high enough that your neck is straight and your head is upright behind the rifle when your shoulders are square. Probably something in the “high” or 1.25 to 1.5 inch height.

Higher is happier.

@lowlight addresses this topic ad infinitum on his podcast and training materials. There are also threads around here about it.

The hand guard on the cross prevents you from going old school close to the bore anyway and unless packing the gun through hill and dale is your goal, ring weight is not really a big issue. Buy a recommended brand (again, search the forums but ARC, MPA, Badger, Vortex, etc is what you are looking for) in steel or aluminum and don’t sweat 1/16” higher or lower…other than trend toward high until you have enough experience to KNOW that you want to go lower for the needs of your own physiology.

 

[FuhQ]

First post, I've been browsing this page for a while but never made an account. I'll make it simple since I've seen a dozen or so posts like this but mines very specific. I bought a sig cross while I'm waiting to move and I've been trying to get everything together before I receive it so I can take off that weekend and go sight it in but everywhere locally tries selling me overpriced generic garbage that sits a quarter inch or more over the barrel, whereas I've seen most builds on here they're almost touching.

My question is am I overthinking it or is there a specific reason why I always see people say as low to the barrel as possible. I don't have the rifle until next week so I have no way of measuring anything but I know I didn't want to pay 100$ for rings that felt like they weighed half a pound that were listed as high with no measurements.

The scope I have for the rifle is an Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 as I saw it was a semi decent budget recommendation on here my only bummer was to find out they weren't made in Japan but made in china lol. I see that has a 30mm tube diameter with a 50mm objective so my question really boils down to this, I want to order the mounts online this week what measurements should I look for/what do you normally measure on that rifle or from where/what can you guys recommend to a first timer I do sec work so all my knowledge is in handguns and carbine this long range shooting I'm taking up on my own as a lot of other things and before I jump to professional help I want to see what I can learn or teach myself with other people's wisdom. Since I don't have the rifle with me I'm kind of relying on someone who has it or enough smiting experience or technical knowledge to point me in the right direction.

Apologies ahead of time if this exact post has been made a dozen times I'm too retarded to navigate these forums for what I'm trying to figure out.

Seekins Precision rings. Low heigh 0.92" will be just fine with a 50mm objective giving you ample clearance and a good cheek-weld.

Seekins Precision 30mm Picatinny-Style Rings Matte Black Low

The best rifle scope in the world is useless without scope rings precisely aligned that hold it immovably in place. Seekins Precision Scope Rings are...

www.midwayusa.com

They're super strong, lightweight (for their size), and I've never had an issue with them. I run these on pretty much every bolt-action rifle I own.

And do yourself a favor, and buy a Wheeler FAT Wrench (torque wrench), and look up both scope tube and ring torque specs, for proper installs. So many people overlook this and go after it with a screwdriver and think they can just wing-it, and say "yep, that's about tight enough"... That's how you break shit.

 

[Jglitch]

“As low to the bore as possible” is an outdated concept that was a hold-over from iron sights Shot from standing positions. You want rings that are high enough that your neck is straight and your head is upright behind the rifle when your shoulders are square. Probably something in the “high” or 1.25 to 1.5 inch height.

Higher is happier.

@lowlight addresses this topic ad infinitum on his podcast and training materials. There are also threads around here about it.

The hand guard on the cross prevents you from going old school close to the bore anyway and unless packing the gun through hill and dale is your goal, ring weight is not really a big issue. Buy a recommended brand (again, search the forums but ARC, MPA, Badger, Vortex, etc is what you are looking for) in steel or aluminum and don’t sweat 1/16” higher or lower…other than trend toward high until you have enough experience to KNOW that you want to go lower for the needs of your own physiology.

I saw Ryan Cleckners video explaining the cheek rest which I think is all but moot for me since the cross has alot of the adjustments in the stock, I'm glad I asked here I was just doing something because it was old conventional wisdom I had been exposed too. Right now the rifle is being "set up" as a marksmanship rifle but eventually I intend on hunting with it so everything I'm putting on it (which is just the scope right now I'll think about a bipod later I want to learn to shoot off of my mystery ranch before I go and make things easier) is going to be the most reputable lightweight options I can find. I don't intend on putting cheap stuff on my rifle, the athlon is like training wheels I'll eventually move back to leupold.

Thank you much I'm going to do some more research based on what you just put here though I'm 90% more confident in buying this shit without a gunsmith pushing recommendations with no alternatives as 2 gunsmithing shops I've been too both tried selling me generic parts for premium prices.

BTW I read a lot of people saying they got unlapped ring mounts that caused their scope to float away on the vortex rings, is there a reason I should reconsider them? If not I'll stick to looking at aero, LaRue, or Badger.

 

[Jglitch]

“As low to the bore as possible” is an outdated concept that was a hold-over from iron sights Shot from standing positions. You want rings that are high enough that your neck is straight and your head is upright behind the rifle when your shoulders are square. Probably something in the “high” or 1.25 to 1.5 inch height.

Higher is happier.

@lowlight addresses this topic ad infinitum on his podcast and training materials. There are also threads around here about it.

The hand guard on the cross prevents you from going old school close to the bore anyway and unless packing the gun through hill and dale is your goal, ring weight is not really a big issue. Buy a recommended brand (again, search the forums but ARC, MPA, Badger, Vortex, etc is what you are looking for) in steel or aluminum and don’t sweat 1/16” higher or lower…other than trend toward high until you have enough experience to KNOW that you want to go lower for the needs of your own physiology.

I've been seeing 1 piece mounts that are super light any thoughts on those vs the 2 ring setup. The aero precision one I'm looking at is a solid price and the rise it adds looks like over an inch

 

[Jglitch]

Seekins Precision rings. Low heigh 0.92" will be just fine with a 50mm objective giving you ample clearance and a good cheek-weld.

Seekins Precision 30mm Picatinny-Style Rings Matte Black Low

The best rifle scope in the world is useless without scope rings precisely aligned that hold it immovably in place. Seekins Precision Scope Rings are...

www.midwayusa.com

They're super strong, lightweight (for their size), and I've never had an issue with them. I run these on pretty much every bolt-action rifle I own.

And do yourself a favor, and buy a Wheeler FAT Wrench (torque wrench), and look up both scope tube and ring torque specs, for proper installs. So many people overlook this and go after it with a screwdriver and think they can just wing-it, and say "yep, that's about tight enough"... That's how you break shit.

I appreciate the recommendation I'm adding that as a back up idea. I have a few Wheeler tools I love them but I'll check out the torque wrench

Have you ever ran 1 piece mounts the aero 1 piece I'm looking at is lighter weight then almost all the 2 ring options I'm seeing with only being an inch high which is a .08 difference from yours curious on your thoughts

 

[FuhQ]

I appreciate the recommendation I'm adding that as a back up idea. I have a few Wheeler tools I love them but I'll check out the torque wrench

Have you ever ran 1 piece mounts the aero 1 piece I'm looking at is lighter weight then almost all the 2 ring options I'm seeing with only being an inch high which is a .08 difference from yours curious on your thoughts

Unless you’re running a chassis with an adjustable comb, I’m typically not a 1-piece mount on a bolt-action guy. I run rings on all my bolt guns, and 1-piece mounts on my AR’s. But that’s just my preference.

 

[OREGUN]

I use rings on many bolt rifles and have a Spuhr on the other all of which are chassis rigs. I don’t see a single difference other than a ring setup will give you a little more flexibility on how the mount relates to the rail and scope…so more room for rail mounted accessories, for example or for moving a ring farther away from the turrets/bells. Never had a problem with any high quality ring-set or unimount, which was mounted using manufacturer’s recommended torque settings and best practices, slipping, loosening or marking a scope tube. I’ve used cantilever and straight unimounts on ARs to good effect also.

I should add, I’ve never lapped rings.

 

[Holliday]

I always understood that the problem is, the further your sights/scope from your bore axis the more any cant error is exaggerated....

 

[KnowNothing256]

OP, you asked how to determine what height to get. Use the website below to determine it, if you have scope and rifle plus some pennies on hand. You don’t have to buy the ARC M10 rings for this measurement to be true, although I would in your case. Seekins/Vortex PMR rings are also good and quite popular, but I think the M10s are superior in design for very similar cost and weight.

M10 Scope Rings

www.americanrifle.com

 

[KnowNothing256]

I always understood that the problem is, the further your sights/scope from your bore axis the more any cant error is exaggerated....

The old problem was more that it made it almost impossible to get a repeatable cheek weld. Adjustable cheek risers have largely solved this problem, within reason. The cant problem magnification seems a valid concern, but most top-line shooters seem not to care, they’d rather have the other benefits provided by mounts such as the Spuhr unimounts which are routinely higher than most rings.

 

[Jglitch]

Unless you’re running a chassis with an adjustable comb, I’m typically not a 1-piece mount on a bike w-action guy. I run rings on all my bolt guns, and 1-piece mounts on my AR’s. But that’s just my preference.

It's a sig cross in 6.5

 

[FuhQ]

It's a sig cross in 6.5

That's supposed to have said "bolt-action", but my autocorrect is fucking retarded...

I'd still go as low as possible on the rings. You'll be fine with a 50mm objective and the low 0.92 Seekins rings.

 

[KnowNothing256]

That's supposed to have said "bolt-action", but my autocorrect is fucking retarded...

I'd still go as low as possible on the rings. You'll be fine with a 50mm objective and the low 0.92 Seekins rings.

The Cross is a bolt gun that’s put together an awful lot like an AR, including a hand guard…

 

[x2cross]

I appreciate the recommendation I'm adding that as a back up idea. I have a few Wheeler tools I love them but I'll check out the torque wrench

Have you ever ran 1 piece mounts the aero 1 piece I'm looking at is lighter weight then almost all the 2 ring options I'm seeing with only being an inch high which is a .08 difference from yours curious on your thoughts

I have the Aero one-piece mount, and I don't have absolute confidence in it holding the scope securely, especially if it gets knocked around. It just doesn't feel real secure. I'd go with something that uses a more traditional clamping style.

 

[FuhQ]

The Cross is a bolt gun that’s put together an awful lot like an AR, including a hand guard…

I'm aware...

 

[Jglitch]

I have the Aero one-piece mount, and I don't have absolute confidence in it holding the scope securely, especially if it gets knocked around. It just doesn't feel real secure. I'd go with something that uses a more traditional clamping style.

Does it actually move though? I've had 3 aero products in my life and never had a complaint about quality I'll take your word for it as that sounds in line with how light weight it is.

 

[Jglitch]

That's supposed to have said "bolt-action", but my autocorrect is fucking retarded...

I'd still go as low as possible on the rings. You'll be fine with a 50mm objective and the low 0.92 Seekins rings.

You're good thank you man

 

[KnowNothing256]

Ok, eyeballing it I’m inclined to agree actually, I bet 0.92” rings will clear the hand guard with a 50mm objective. 0.92” is 23.4mm, measured from the top surface of the rail, so the bottom of the objective will only protrude a few mm below that rail surface. Looking at photos of the cross, there’s more than just a few mm of space between the top of the rail and the top of the hand guard.

 

[FuhQ]

You're good thank you man

On second thought... I'd go 1-piece AR style mount. Or higher rings. I didn't realize how far that front rail sticks out...

Sorry about that. It's been a while since I looked at them, I thought the rail was closer to the action... Better safe, than sorry. I'd go with the higher mounts. My bad.

 

[Jglitch]

On second thought... I'd go 1-piece AR style mount. Or higher rings. I didn't realize how far that front rail sticks out...

Sorry about that. It's been a while since I looked at them, I thought the rail was closer to the action... Better safe, than sorry. I'd go with the higher mounts. My bad.

Would it be a bad idea to try both

 

[KnowNothing256]

On second thought... I'd go 1-piece AR style mount. Or higher rings. I didn't realize how far that front rail sticks out...

Sorry about that. It's been a while since I looked at them, I thought the rail was closer to the action... Better safe, than sorry. I'd go with the higher mounts. My bad.

Haha, I was tricked into agreeing with you! I didn’t consider fore/aft placement either, low rings only work if your objective bell is located forward of the rail. Otherwise I’d guess you need at least 1.05” or so. That’s an Xtra High for Vortex/Seekins (1.26”) or Med for M10’s (1.10”). There’s a huge jump from High to Xtra High on the Seekins rings for some reason.

 

[Jglitch]

Haha, I was tricked into agreeing with you! I didn’t consider fore/aft placement either, low rings only work if your objective bell is located forward of the rail. Otherwise I’d guess you need at least 1.05” or so. That’s an Xtra High for Vortex/Seekins (1.26”) or Med for M10’s (1.10”). There’s a huge jump from High to Xtra High on the Seekins rings for some reason.

The athlon I have is a rather long scope for what I've seen in its class do you think it would clear that dip with medium or just get the high in case

 

[KnowNothing256]

I’d just get the high ones, as @FuhQ recommended

ETA: Sorry, “high” is a bit non-helpful because that word is used differently between manufacturers. You need at least 1.05” by my rough guess.

Do you have the gun and the scope?

 

[FuhQ]

Would it be a bad idea to try both

I'd do some Googling, and try to find out what most people are running on them. If you see a picture of the correct gap you want between the objective and the rail, then do some research and try to find out exactly what height rings they used. Then just order the closest one in the Seekins. Or, you could just go ahead and get a 1-piece like the SPUHR, Vortex, ADM Mfg, LaRue, etc... with 20 MOA built into it.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I would strongly recommend the M10s over the Seekins. One screw to tighten your scope in, with minimal scope rotation likely during tightening, versus four screws that have to be tightened per ring in a manufacturer-recommended pattern.

And they basically cost and weigh the same. I have Seekins rings on multiple scopes and I wish they were all M10’s. They’re both good, but there’s only upside in my mind with the M10’s.

 

[OREGUN]

I've been seeing 1 piece mounts that are super light any thoughts on those vs the 2 ring setup. The aero precision one I'm looking at is a solid price and the rise it adds looks like over an inch

That’s kinda like everything….strong, light, cheap, pick two.

I’d look at who the manufacturer is marketing toward. If all their pictures are of ARs, it’s probably not engineered with precision bolt guns in mind. Last time I looked at aero precision mounts, they were marketed as “designed for your AR15 platform”. Which in many cases means, “designed for the eye relief and shooting conditions of ar15 optics” which are different than bolt gun optics…even if the Sig cross looks a lot like an AR.

I have exactly one rifle in lightweight alumuminum rings. It’s a benchrest gun and I was making a conscious decision on a gun that would never be carried anywhere but to a benchrest. In keeping with the above, I would say if you want light, make sure you don’t also go cheap or you will be sad. Badger Ordinance, for example charges the same for rings as for their unimount…and at least their rings are worth every penny. MPA, for example, also makes a purpose built bolt gun single piece mount. Those two manufacturers will give you an idea of what you’d expect to pay for a unimount that will work/not suck.

The only lightweight rings I would recommend are from Hawkins Precision and that’s because I know and trust Andy Hawkins. Which by the way, he recommends 1.25” height for 50mm objective and an AR style forend.

Hawkins Precision Scope Rings - Hawkins Precision

Hawkins Precision scope rings are made for every application. From hunting scope rings to heavy tactical scope rings, we have what you need.

hawkinsprecision.com

I guess I would go with rings over a single piece mount, if it was me. My gun that wears a Spuhr is designed to be heavy and to be rough handled. The single piece has got to be heavier than rings…there’s just more metal…assuming similar levels of quality. With rings you have more flexibility too.

 

[Jglitch]

That’s kinda like everything….strong, light, cheap, pick two.

I’d look at who the manufacturer is marketing toward. If all their pictures are of ARs, it’s probably not engineered with precision bolt guns in mind. Last time I looked at aero precision mounts, they were marketed as “designed for your AR15 platform”. Which in many cases means, “designed for the eye relief and shooting conditions of ar15 optics” which are different than bolt gun optics…even if the Sig cross looks a lot like an AR.

I have exactly one rifle in lightweight alumuminum rings. It’s a benchrest gun and I was making a conscious decision on a gun that would never be carried anywhere but to a benchrest. In keeping with the above, I would say if you want light, make sure you don’t also go cheap or you will be sad. Badger Ordinance, for example charges the same for rings as for their unimount…and at least their rings are worth every penny. MPA, for example, also makes a purpose built bolt gun single piece mount. Those two manufacturers will give you an idea of what you’d expect to pay for a unimount that will work/not suck.

The only lightweight rings I would recommend are from Hawkins Precision and that’s because I know and trust Andy Hawkins. Which by the way, he recommends 1.25” height for 50mm objective and an AR style forend.

Hawkins Precision Scope Rings - Hawkins Precision

Hawkins Precision scope rings are made for every application. From hunting scope rings to heavy tactical scope rings, we have what you need.

hawkinsprecision.com

I guess I would go with rings over a single piece mount, if it was me. My gun that wears a Spuhr is designed to be heavy and to be rough handled. The single piece has got to be heavier than rings…there’s just more metal…assuming similar levels of quality. With rings you have more flexibility too.

I know Badger I was introduced to their qd mounts at shot show a few years back when I used to go. When I get paid I plan on them or LaRue I just wanted a quick fix for now since I know aero's parts are good(not best) quality for an AR platform so I figured they'd be rated for their 6.5 creedmoor uppers which is why I asked since if it doesn't work out for my cross it would certainly work for my ar10 which my complete upper minus charging handle and bcg were done by them.

 

[Holliday]

The cant problem magnification seems a valid concern, but most top-line shooters seem not to care, they’d rather have the other benefits provided by mounts such as the Spuhr unimounts which are routinely higher than most rings.

I personally try to keep it down low, within reason, mainly because as a mere mortal, I am not a “top of the line shooter”.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I personally try to keep it down low, within reason, mainly because as a mere mortal, I am not a “top of the line shooter”.

Sure, same here. But it feels weird to come on Frank’s site and tell people to do the opposite of what Frank recommends haha

 

[FuhQ]

I would strongly recommend the M10s over the Seekins. One screw to tighten your scope in, with minimal scope rotation likely during tightening, versus four screws that have to be tightened per ring in a manufacturer-recommended pattern.

And they basically cost and weigh the same. I have Seekins rings on multiple scopes and I wish they were all M10’s. They’re both good, but there’s only upside in my mind with the M10’s.

IMO, that's not really a big deal, if you pay attention to what you're doing, and have some basic mechanical skills. Everyone who's ever worked on anything with opposing bolts knows to tighten in a cross pattern, and a little at a time. You don't go straight to cranking it at 20 in-lbs.

Personally, I'll take FOUR T28 torx screws over 1... But, to each, their own...

 

[KnowNothing256]

IMO, that's not really a bid deal, if you pay attention to what you're doing, and have some basic mechanical skills. Everyone who's ever worked on anything with opposing bolts knows to tighten in a cross pattern, and a little at a time. You don't go straight to cranking it at 20 in-lbs.

Personally, I'll take FOUR T28 torx scows over 1... But, to each, their own...

Yeah, and what’s easier, tightening one screw, or four screws one teensy bit at at time? Exactly 0% concerned about needing four screws to hold the scope in place, friction does all that and one screw in a well-designed setup can handle it just fine.

Feel like you’re making my case for me here

 

[OREGUN]

I personally try to keep it down low, within reason, mainly because as a mere mortal, I am not a “top of the line shooter”.

I’m only a mid-pack shooter if the pack all rode to the match on the short bus. But going a little higher on my rings has had no discernible effect on my accuracy at 100 or 1000 but absolutely allows me to address the rifle more consistently, keep my head more upright, look through the scope in the center of my vision instead of squinting out the top/side, etc…with all the attendant benefits. I’m a believer, converted after years of going to great lengths to get the scope as low as possible, in the idea that higher is better, within reason and
assuming you can get your comb height up appropriately.

IMO, that's not really a big deal, if you pay attention to what you're doing, and have some basic mechanical skills. Everyone who's ever worked on anything with opposing bolts knows to tighten in a cross pattern, and a little at a time. You don't go straight to cranking it at 20 in-lbs.

Personally, I'll take FOUR T28 torx scows over 1... But, to each, their own...

Having everything perfectly level and going around gently tightening 8 or 12 torx screws only to come back and find that shit moved in the doing…that sucks donkey balls. So, yeah, if the ARC rings have one screw, and work, I could be excited about that.

I know Badger I was introduced to their qd mounts at shot show a few years back when I used to go. When I get paid I plan on them or LaRue I just wanted a quick fix for now since I know aero's parts are good(not best) quality for an AR platform so I figured they'd be rated for their 6.5 creedmoor uppers which is why I asked since if it doesn't work out for my cross it would certainly work for my ar10 which my complete upper minus charging handle and bcg were done by them.

Go for it. If it fits the budget and gets you shooting there’s no real reason not to. I have two AR type platforms with LPVOs mounted in Aero mounts…neither has ever fallen off or moved around. Assuming the turret housing fits between the ring parts of the mount and you can get the eye relief and height you like, you might as well try it. Paralysis by analysis and not shooting because you don’t have someone else’s idea of the perfect setup is a shitty way to get better. The reality is that recreational shooters, no matter how aggressive or even careless, never subject any part of their scope/mount system to the abuse that a company like Badger or Spuhr engineers for. It’s overkill that we justify by finding some other thing like weight or mounting options that we like and then saying “it’s the best”.

In the words of John McQuay, “get out and shoot”

 

[FuhQ]

Yeah, and what’s easier, tightening one screw, or four screws one teensy bit at at time? Exactly 0% concerned about needing four screws to hold the scope in place, friction does all that and one screw in a well-designed setup can handle it just fine.

Feel like you’re making my case for me here

You're getting awfully defensive over something really stupid to argue about.

 

[Holliday]

but absolutely allows me to address the rifle more consistently,

I don’t have that issue.

 

[FuhQ]

Having everything perfectly level and going around gently tightening 8 or 12 torx screws only to come back and find that shit moved in the doing…that sucks donkey balls. So, yeah, if the ARC rings have one screw, and work, I could be excited about that.

That's what keeping levels on them, and constantly checking them while working, are for... That's what buying simple tools like the Badger Ordnance Dead Level, are for.

 

[Holliday]

IMO, that's not really a big deal, if you pay attention to what you're doing, and have some basic mechanical skills. Everyone who's ever worked on anything with opposing bolts knows to tighten in a cross pattern, and a little at a time. You don't go straight to cranking it at 20 in-lbs.

Personally, I'll take FOUR T28 torx screws over 1... But, to each, their own...

I used to be vexed by this. Now, the scope moving during tightening is a non-issue.

 

[Holliday]

That's what buying simple tools like the Badger Ordnance Dead Level, are for.

Do you own use one? I was drooling over that rig but I have gotten so good at mounting scopes, I am doubting the need.

 

[FuhQ]

Do you own use one? I was drooling over that rig but I have gotten so good at mounting scopes, I am doubting the need.

I've been mounting scopes and working on my own guns for 25+ years. I'm no stranger to the process. But yep, bought one about 8-10 years ago... Been a great tool. I HIGHLY recommend getting one if you have more than a few rifles, and if you swap scopes regularly (like I do). It's been indispensable.

The only issue I've had is the level on it leaked-out and isn't very accurate anymore (probably should call them to have them send me a new bubble)...But I level the unit with a set of Starrett levels on both axes, after putting the rings on it, and then I KNOW it's level (now) and then I set the scope in the rings, and use those levels on my scope as well while torquing. Works perfect.

 

[n00g7]

Do you own use one? I was drooling over that rig but I have gotten so good at mounting scopes, I am doubting the need.

It’s basically pointless, so feel free to keep doubting lol.

 

[OREGUN]

I don’t have that issue.

Sounds like you are a true expert. Thanks for helping us noobs get straightened out.

 

[Jglitch]

I’m only a mid-pack shooter if the pack all rode to the match on the short bus. But going a little higher on my rings has had no discernible effect on my accuracy at 100 or 1000 but absolutely allows me to address the rifle more consistently, keep my head more upright, look through the scope in the center of my vision instead of squinting out the top/side, etc…with all the attendant benefits. I’m a believer, converted after years of going to great lengths to get the scope as low as possible, in the idea that higher is better, within reason and
assuming you can get your comb height up appropriately.




Having everything perfectly level and going around gently tightening 8 or 12 torx screws only to come back and find that shit moved in the doing…that sucks donkey balls. So, yeah, if the ARC rings have one screw, and work, I could be excited about that.



Go for it. If it fits the budget and gets you shooting there’s no real reason not to. I have two AR type platforms with LPVOs mounted in Aero mounts…neither has ever fallen off or moved around. Assuming the turret housing fits between the ring parts of the mount and you can get the eye relief and height you like, you might as well try it. Paralysis by analysis and not shooting because you don’t have someone else’s idea of the perfect setup is a shitty way to get better. The reality is that recreational shooters, no matter how aggressive or even careless, never subject any part of their scope/mount system to the abuse that a company like Badger or Spuhr engineers for. It’s overkill that we justify by finding some other thing like weight or mounting options that we like and then saying “it’s the best”.

In the words of John McQuay, “get out and shoot”

I'm taking your recommendation I ordered the aero mount as a starter as long as the scope fits I'll try it out when I get the rifle next Saturday by then I should have a few dollars to fuck with to try a LaRue out since badger is out of stock everywhere(I had a larue mount on my aimpoint I had never set it up though) my only disappointment is I might have to do a high mount a 1.21 as the smaller size down on the website is a .91. I'll be able to experiment since I can't find ammo for shit where I'm at and when 6.5cm is in stock it's 50 bucks for 20 rounds haha.

I'm also going to pick up a scope leveling kit since I see a couple options that have magnetic levels and torque wrenches together and I have none of that as all my optics are thermals on swivel mounts or red dots/acog. I'm all about diy I don't have a gun vice but I have a vice I figure I can find a way of not fucking up the rifle and keeping it level while I set everything up. I appreciate the advice I don't know why I didn't make an account here years ago let alone get into precision shooting, I milled my ar 10 3 or more years back as I'm a huge battle rifle fan and was searching around on here for parts advice but never thought to ask. Now that I literally had no where else to go this has been a huge money saver as I probably would've just started testing everything like when I got into ar's haha. I just want to start shooting target and move over to hunting since I haven't hunted in a decade and never larger game.

Edit: I reread your other post I'll keep the height in mind when I get the rifle I'll measure based on how tall from the rail to the base of the scope and go from there

Edit:edit: the larue ones are 1.28 I just might buy them when I get paid

https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-30mm-2-piece-qd-lt123/

 

[FuhQ]

It’s basically pointless, so feel free to keep doubting lol.

How you figure that one, sports fan? Do you own one? Have you ever even used one?

 

[OREGUN]

I'm taking your recommendation I ordered the aero mount as a starter as long as the scope fits I'll try it out when I get the rifle next Saturday by then I should have a few dollars to fuck with to try a LaRue out since badger is out of stock everywhere(I had a larue mount on my aimpoint I had never set it up though) my only disappointment is I might have to do a high mount a 1.21 as the smaller size down on the website is a .91. I'll be able to experiment since I can't find ammo for shit where I'm at and when 6.5cm is in stock it's 50 bucks for 20 rounds haha.

I'm also going to pick up a scope leveling kit since I see a couple options that have magnetic levels and torque wrenches together and I have none of that as all my optics are thermals on swivel mounts or red dots/acog. I'm all about diy I don't have a gun vice but I have a vice I figure I can find a way of not fucking up the rifle and keeping it level while I set everything up. I appreciate the advice I don't know why I didn't make an account here years ago let alone get into precision shooting, I milled my ar 10 3 or more years back as I'm a huge battle rifle fan and was searching around on here for parts advice but never thought to ask. Now that I literally had no where else to go this has been a huge money saver as I probably would've just started testing everything like when I got into ar's haha. I just want to start shooting target and move over to hunting since I haven't hunted in a decade and never larger game.

Cool. Ammo is hard to come by and expensive right now, for sure. The hide can be a terrific resource or a tremendous waste of time. If you only believe 10% of what you read here you’ll probably come out ahead. The trick is figuring out which 10% to believe.

There are as many opinions on the best way to mount a scope as there are guys on the Hide. As we have seen in this thread, some guys like gadgets to level everything and some guys are apparently just naturally experts. I don’t feel like saying anything about how I do it because there are some strong opinions in this thread already and unfortunately that’s a topic that never leads to anywhere good. Hopefully the leveling kit is the magic bullet for you. Happy shooting.

 

[Jglitch]

Cool. Ammo is hard to come by and expensive right now, for sure. The hide can be a terrific resource or a tremendous waste of time. If you only believe 10% of what you read here you’ll probably come out ahead. The trick is figuring out which 10% to believe.

There are as many opinions on the best way to mount a scope as there are guys on the Hide. As we have seen in this thread, some guys like gadgets to level everything and some guys are apparently just naturally experts. I don’t feel like saying anything about how I do it because there are some strong opinions in this thread already and unfortunately that’s a topic that never leads to anywhere good. Hopefully the leveling kit is the magic bullet for you. Happy shooting.

I knew that when I asked about the 1 piece setups, I knew out of most traditional or practical setups no one would agree with it, I was just waiting for 1 person to point me in the direction of a high quality one which now I've read 3 listed here. I'll just be experimenting with the aero one it's more for the ar10 then anything and this scope unless it holds up beyond its price point will not be a keeper on the rifle its merely for target practice eventually I do want to move to Leupold as I don't trust sig or Vortex as much as others here do. My first bolt gun(although I wanted a savage impulse predator in 6.5 as I'm a huge straight pull design fan) and my 3rd time teaching myself to shoot a new platform, I just hope I don't run into the same snags I ran into with handgun and need to go get training. Overlooking or overthinking something fundamental. Which is why when I hear first hand experiences they make me feel more comfortable than hive mind responses I see on /K or other boards

Most of my experience was at the costs of 1000s of dollars of experimenting while I was at work I tried every configuration known to man either at my cost or through trade. I'm trying to avoid that with this as I'd rather buy another gun or hundred rounds of ammo then buy 20 optics and 12 different mounts if I can keep it under 4 for each I'd consider it money well saved I just need something to give me confidence to put down a larger animal in an ethical manner if I can't trust myself I won't go hunting or stick to small game just that simple.

I have a feeling this ammo shortage is more so the way things are from here on so I really should just be buying ammo but I have a feeling 6.5 finally got popular enough that it will be as easy to find as 308 in the private market. That and I want my rifle to be setup the way I want for when I find bullets

 

[Jglitch]

Cool. Ammo is hard to come by and expensive right now, for sure. The hide can be a terrific resource or a tremendous waste of time. If you only believe 10% of what you read here you’ll probably come out ahead. The trick is figuring out which 10% to believe.

There are as many opinions on the best way to mount a scope as there are guys on the Hide. As we have seen in this thread, some guys like gadgets to level everything and some guys are apparently just naturally experts. I don’t feel like saying anything about how I do it because there are some strong opinions in this thread already and unfortunately that’s a topic that never leads to anywhere good. Hopefully the leveling kit is the magic bullet for you. Happy shooting.

Also I've seen a lot of the tricks on the YouTubes for leveling I have a few dozen of those sighting targets they use on ranges at marine bases with the little grid squares I'll make sure that's level throw my shit into a vice and use a couple bubbles to make sure it's level before I tighten things incrementally, been watching a lot of Cleckners videos as well so I think I got an idea of what needs to be done and if not I'll try it again until I need to call my gunsmith pal and ask him to make me feel like less of a man and do it for me lol I ain't about all that drama I just want to learn to reach out and touch someone or something at longer distances than I've ever dealt with.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Also I've seen a lot of the tricks on the YouTubes for leveling I have a few dozen of those sighting targets they use on ranges at marine bases with the little grid squares I'll make sure that's level throw my shit into a vice and use a couple bubbles to make sure it's level before I tighten things incrementally, been watching a lot of Cleckners videos as well so I think I got an idea of what needs to be done and if not I'll try it again until I need to call my gunsmith pal and ask him to make me feel like less of a man and do it for me lol I ain't about all that drama I just want to learn to reach out and touch someone or something at longer distances than I've ever dealt with.

Sounds like you’re headed forward, good choice! One trick for scope leveling that I recently used (a trick a user on Modern Day Rifleman Network suggested) was a water jug downrange. If you fill it about half full, it’ll give you a horizontal level, then you can go back to the bench, level the gun, then level the horizontal crosshair to the waterline. If I’m at home I use a different method, but if you have some room, say 25-50 yds, it’s a quick method to get a true level just about anywhere.

 

[Jglitch]

Sounds like you’re headed forward, good choice! One trick for scope leveling that I recently used (a trick a user on Modern Day Rifleman Network suggested) was a water jug downrange. If you fill it about half full, it’ll give you a horizontal level, then you can go back to the bench, level the gun, then level the horizontal crosshair to the waterline. If I’m at home I use a different method, but if you have some room, say 25-50 yds, it’s a quick method to get a true level just about anywhere.

Damn good idea, thank you friend

 

[Holliday]

Sounds like you are a true expert. Thanks for helping us noobs get straightened out.

Jesus dude. You go from 0 to retard for simply stating a fact? What part got under your skin, the honest and sincere part?

I have glaucoma and already have lost one eye to it. The clock is ticking on the other. Every day I can shoot long distance and hunt is a blessing. Quite frankly I thought I would be blind by now. If anyone has “issues” while shooting it will be me. I always adapt the best I can.

No, I don’t have an issue “addressing” my current rifles (as long as I use the proper pronouns of “gun, weapon or slayer”) so I keep my scopes low to the bore. I have a habit of using every edge I can get. I did have that issue with an AI chassis and raised my rings to accommodate.

I have wondered about mirage, being closer to the barrel but I have not quantified that. So it is only a passing concern at this point. I have times on the range where mirage was an issue but I did not determine whether it was ambient, the barrel or simply an issue with my vision.

I hope that helps assuage your concerns.