Gunsmithing creating flat plane for bottom of a T4 for Arca rail installation????

[missed]

What are y'all doing to level the bottom of the stock for a ARCA rail installation? As the T4 has that dip between the action screw and the where the forearm hand grip contour begins. One of the stocks has the later model barricade stop in it.

I'm kinda thinking about just using the front action screw and the two picatinny rail screws to fasten it and call it a day. I don't really want to cut into the carbon fiber shell to create a flat plane. Installing the rail and "caulking" it with epoxy has crossed my mind, but don't really like that solution very much.

 

[CaptNemo]

Area 419 has an adapter listed for the T6, not sure if it will work ?
https://www.area419.com/product/iar-adapters/

 

[missed]

The T6 has a different shape where the hand section is lower than the middle section. The T4 hand section goes flat then turns down. So on the T4 there is a gap from the front action screw to the hand section. The T6 would be off the stock from the hand section all the way to the end of the rail without the spacer kit.

 

[CaptNemo]

You might give Jon a call up at Area 419, he’s always looking to expand his offerings.

 

[Simia Dei]

This is what I ended up doing, drilled an additional two tee nuts into the foreend.

 

[missed]

I thought about moving it forward onto the flat grip section but it won't balance when it's got the stubby barrel on it at that point. I want to take mine back to the mag well. I am going to build a pillar to go in where the mini chassis barricade stop was. That will get me for one stock. The other stock is another T4 that does not have the second generation barricade stop in it. I guess I'll just have to add a pillar in it also. I was hoping this was going to be easy lazy bolt on!

 

[NWnewguy]

Has anyone used something better than the T-nuts to fasten these rails?

It seems to me that the T-nuts make a really large hole in the stock material and that maybe a threaded insert or something similar epoxied in place would leave a more functionally sound stock.

 

[Diver160651]

You can use a Henderson Precision M-lock rail the attach the ARCA

 

[missed]

I don't want a different rail, the Area 419 rails are here. I'm torn between pillars to take up the gap or following the plane of the handguard all the way to the front action screw which will recess the rail about 1/8" at the front action screw. Either way it's going to be a bit of a project. I'm leaning to milling the plane in.

 

[Diver160651]

I don't want a different rail, the Area 419 rails are here. I'm torn between pillars to take up the gap or following the plane of the handguard all the way to the front action screw which will recess the rail about 1/8" at the front action screw. Either way it's going to be a bit of a project. I'm leaning to milling the plane in.

For what it’s worth I was showing how I attached my rail. Not the rail itself, but rather the piece that is milled into the forend. Now I can flip any rail or unlock device on or off in the future

 

[missed]

Did you run the embedded rail high enough to have the rail go all the way to the front action screw and bridge the gap between the hand section and the flatter part closer to the action?

 

[m1match]

I installed an Area 419 rail on my Manners T3 and used hard plastic washers as shims between the front action screw and the rail. I emailed Area 419 and they suggested this. Here's a picture.

 

[Diver160651]

Did you run the embedded rail high enough to have the rail go all the way to the front action screw and bridge the gap between the hand section and the flatter part closer to the action?

No, I want to be able to take my rail on or off Without disturbing the rail. I also want to be able to take the barrels action on or off easily.

My enhance badger already have the small drop like the 419. I don’t want any stop more forward for running on a game changer

 

[JGR1953]

Has anyone used something better than the T-nuts to fasten these rails?

It seems to me that the T-nuts make a really large hole in the stock material and that maybe a threaded insert or something similar epoxied in place would leave a more functionally sound stock.

I just use a flat washer,lock washer and nut sized a lot smaller than most T-nuts
You can smear a thin coat of epoxy on the washers and nut before you screw it down tight then you can fill the hole with epoxy and lock it in place.
Be sure to use some release agent or grease on the screw threads so they don't stick to the epoxy.

 

[acourvil]

I used a threaded insert epoxied into the stock instead of a t-nut, and did some grinding on the Area 419 rail to Mae it fit the stock better.

 

[GreatGonzo]

I just torqued it down. The rail bent a little to conform to the stock. It all works well with any arca clamps I've used.

 

[Safety_3rd]

I installed an Area 419 rail on my Manners T3 and used hard plastic washers as shims between the front action screw and the rail. I emailed Area 419 and they suggested this. Here's a picture.View attachment 7009596

Are you worried about getting enough torque on the front action screw? Seems to me like plastic might have some give to it.

 

[m1match]

@Safety_3rd , the plastic washers I used are hard plastic and do not compress. I had no trouble getting to 65 in-lbs of torque on the action screws.

 

[want2learn]

you probably know this already but i didn't....
T nuts are available in a lot of different diameters/sizes.
I often saw the 3/4 inch size and was afraid it might be too wide for my application but a quick shopping trip to our local Home Depot provided some readily available options which were pretty inexpensive and might help.