I was shooting a 4.5x14 power scope yesterday, at short range on my .22lr say 25-30 yards. On 4.5 power I focused in on the object and the crosshairs where real blurry. Was this due to to much power at short range (don't think so cause I shot the same rifle with a 6x24 power scope and was just trying out a different scope) or maybe was it the sun cause I was shooting into the sun kinda. The sun was low in the sky just outside my field of view high right?
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Rifle Scopes CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
- Thread starter KHOOKS
- Start date
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- blurry crosshairs focus object
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
If you have a crystal clear reticle at 100 yards but not at 25 the issue is not having enough paralax adjustment.
If not, then the eyepiece may not be focused to your eye.
The best way for me to make sure my focus is good is to intentionally move my paralax ajustment so it is out of focus.
Then I adjust the eyepiece until the reticle is clear & sharp.
If you have a crystal clear reticle at 100 yards but not at 25 the issue is not having enough paralax adjustment.
If not, then the eyepiece may not be focused to your eye.
The best way for me to make sure my focus is good is to intentionally move my paralax ajustment so it is out of focus.
Then I adjust the eyepiece until the reticle is clear & sharp.
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
OK I didn't even try to move the eyepiece I'll give this a go. I had just mounted the scope and was trying to get it on paper. The scope done everything else as expected and I got it zeroed in just a few shots for the distance in my backyard. I'll see how it works at the range in a few days.
Thanks for the input!
OK I didn't even try to move the eyepiece I'll give this a go. I had just mounted the scope and was trying to get it on paper. The scope done everything else as expected and I got it zeroed in just a few shots for the distance in my backyard. I'll see how it works at the range in a few days.
Thanks for the input!
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KHOOKS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was shooting a 4.5x14 power scope yesterday, at short range on my .22lr say 25-30 yards. On 4.5 power I focused in on the object and the crosshairs where real blurry. Was this due to to much power at short range (don't think so cause I shot the same rifle with a 6x24 power scope and was just trying out a different scope) or maybe was it the sun cause I was shooting into the sun kinda. The sun was low in the sky just outside my field of view high right? </div></div>
Since you have not mentioned what make and model of scope, nor if the scope has the ability to focus down to the range at which you were shooting it is impossible to determine what the problem is. However, since you have said that you did not adjust the eyepiece (ocular bell), the correct procedure is listed below. Please note that this procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KHOOKS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was shooting a 4.5x14 power scope yesterday, at short range on my .22lr say 25-30 yards. On 4.5 power I focused in on the object and the crosshairs where real blurry. Was this due to to much power at short range (don't think so cause I shot the same rifle with a 6x24 power scope and was just trying out a different scope) or maybe was it the sun cause I was shooting into the sun kinda. The sun was low in the sky just outside my field of view high right? </div></div>
Since you have not mentioned what make and model of scope, nor if the scope has the ability to focus down to the range at which you were shooting it is impossible to determine what the problem is. However, since you have said that you did not adjust the eyepiece (ocular bell), the correct procedure is listed below. Please note that this procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
Keith
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KHOOKS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was shooting a 4.5x14 power scope yesterday, </div></div>
What scope?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KHOOKS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was shooting a 4.5x14 power scope yesterday, </div></div>
What scope?
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
I didn't think the make and model would matter to get the fix for this. Put I can see how it could help. I did notice when I got the scope the eyepiece is turned way out I can see a lot of treads between the eyepiece and the tube. I think this is more then likely the problem cause all may other scope are set most of the way in. The scope is a Leupold 4.5x14 50mm Long range. I got it used and just put in on a 22lr to try it out and had not had time to get to the range just shot in the backyard. Will get it out to 100y this weekend sometime.
I didn't think the make and model would matter to get the fix for this. Put I can see how it could help. I did notice when I got the scope the eyepiece is turned way out I can see a lot of treads between the eyepiece and the tube. I think this is more then likely the problem cause all may other scope are set most of the way in. The scope is a Leupold 4.5x14 50mm Long range. I got it used and just put in on a 22lr to try it out and had not had time to get to the range just shot in the backyard. Will get it out to 100y this weekend sometime.
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
So you haven't adjusted the diopter, you just dropped the scope you got used onto your rifle?
If so Aries64's post explains it all.
So you haven't adjusted the diopter, you just dropped the scope you got used onto your rifle?
If so Aries64's post explains it all.
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
Yes, I have not moved the eyepiece at all the keeper ring was tight and I didn't try to force it to loosen. It was getting dark at the time and I just went ahead and shot it. I have never had a scope that was this bad out as this one, never really had this problem before with one.
Yes, I have not moved the eyepiece at all the keeper ring was tight and I didn't try to force it to loosen. It was getting dark at the time and I just went ahead and shot it. I have never had a scope that was this bad out as this one, never really had this problem before with one.
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
Not a problem, just needs adjustment.
The best way to loosen the lock ring is to just turn the eyepiece rear of the lockring CCW. Once its loose a little you can screw the lockring freely forward all the way. Turn the eyepiece in about the same as your other scopes then go with Aries64's instructions from there.
Not a problem, just needs adjustment.
The best way to loosen the lock ring is to just turn the eyepiece rear of the lockring CCW. Once its loose a little you can screw the lockring freely forward all the way. Turn the eyepiece in about the same as your other scopes then go with Aries64's instructions from there.
Re: CROSSHAIRS BLURRY WHEN OBJECT IN FOCUS
Got it fixed, it was the eyepiece. Just set way different for the last user.
Thanks for all the input
Ken
Got it fixed, it was the eyepiece. Just set way different for the last user.
Thanks for all the input
Ken
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