CZ 455 Rifle Basix Install

justin amateur

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 21, 2012
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Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith!

I am, however, easily entertained and possess a garage full of tools that normally
are employed in keeping my outboards and wheeled vehicles operational.
After swapping out my 455 Varmint stock trigger for the CZ SST and experiencing
the difference for myself, decided my 455 American needed an improved trigger also.
I've played with a "Yo-Dave", but decided I wanted an adjustable sear.

The Timney has an adjustable sear, but the tail on the Timney trigger for the 455
would require some serious wood removal in order to fit the older "A" model 455 American stock.

Timney for the 455 with the trigger tail shown

455timney.png



Rear inletting of the old 455 American stock

nofloat.JPG



Ordered the Rifle Basix 452/455 trigger late Sunday afternoon,
delivered to my mailbox on Thursday. I like the quick service.
Trigger kit, instructions, decal and products brochure in a padded shipping envelope.

basix-in.png



Arranged the kit to verify what goes where.
Doesn't appear to be anything missing, even the necessary allen wrenches.

basix-455.png




I've got no complaints about the CZ factory trigger.
It's solid, no wiggle, no play, no creep. Ideal for use as a sporter.
But I find the 455 American Lilja 22lr is spending more time as a bench rifle
than for woods carry and my 455 Varmint 22wmr/17hmr has become my open field choice.
So, time to learn if the Basix will work well for me as a bench trigger.

Instructions say something about dremeling off the pin compression flare,
I'm old school and grabbed a 1/8 inch drill bit and a hand drill, skimmed the flange off
in about 15 seconds by letting the bit ride the dimple in the pin.

1-8drillflush.png



After that a plastic mallet and a 3/32 drift eased the pin out.

3-32push.png



The rear pin is even easier, no flare, tapped out with no fuss.
The trigger spring popped loose and landed on the towel.
Factory trigger removed, time elapsed: about 4 minutes, including taking pictures.
The sear ball pin stays put, so no chasing the detent ball and spring around.

pins-out.png



Wiped old lubricant off all the previously inaccessible surfaces,
made sure no metal shavings from the drilling had ended up where they shouldn't.
Re-read the instructions one more time and dove in.
Could have used an extra hand during assembly.
That's the difference between an experienced pro and an amateur.
Short end of the spring stud drops in the receiver hole where the CZ trigger spring used to be,
small end of the spring fits in spring well in the new trigger,
large end goes over the spring stud hanging out of the receiver.
Lined up the rear trigger holes with the rear holes in the receiver,
while keeping the spring in place on the stud and in the well,
and pushing the new rear pin through the trigger/receiver holes.

Exercise in futility, wife stood there watching me and giggling.
She asked if I wanted some help...naw, I can get it.
I did, after providing the wife with a few more minutes of cheap entertainment.

The new pin that was provided in the Basix kit refused to slide in.
Not a surprise, the older CZ 455 receivers had some production issues with fit/tolerances.
Had to reuse the old rear pin as the new pin shipped with the kit was too tight.
Once the old rear pin was in place, the new front pin slid in easy.
The yellow thread lock on the supplied cup screws was a little heavy,
used a wire brush to remove it and applied blue thread lock instead.
With the cup screws in place, cycled the bolt, rough adjusted the sear screw,
adjusted the spring screw, popped the trigger. Nice feel. No travel, no creep,
no wobble, no play. Cycled the bolt again, adjusted the sear screw to the
amount of bite wanted and that trigger pops with exactly the same feel as my CZ single set trigger.

trigger-set.png



Wiped the ends of the pins clean with an alcohol pad to degrease,
dots of 5 minute epoxy on the ends of the pins, let it set over night.
To remove those epoxy dots at a later time, a hot soldering iron tip
will melt the epoxy, allowing the pins to be pushed out with minimal effort.

epoxy-pin.png



There is a cheaper alternative for an adjustable sear while using the factory 455 trigger.
It involves epoxying a portion of a motherboard standoff screw to the sear plate.

sear-nut.png



According to my trigger pull gauge, range of trigger pull adjustment
is as low as 4 ounces or as high as 36 ounces with my setup.
I readjusted to just over 12 ounces to match the set trigger on my 455 Varmint.
I like the feel and function of the Rifle Basix trigger. Worth the money for my purposes.
 
Last edited:
Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith!

I am, however, easily entertained and possess a garage full of tools that normally
are employed in keeping my outboards and wheeled vehicles operational.
After swapping out my 455 Varmint stock trigger for the CZ SST and experiencing
the difference for myself, decided my 455 American needed an improved trigger also.
I've played with a "Yo-Dave", but decided I wanted an adjustable sear.

The Timney has an adjustable sear, but the tail on the Timney trigger for the 455
would require some serious wood removal in order to fit the older "A" model 455 American stock.

Timney for the 455 with the trigger tail shown

455timney.png



Rear inletting of the old 455 American stock

nofloat.JPG



Ordered the Rifle Basix 452/455 trigger late Sunday afternoon,
delivered to my mailbox on Thursday. I like the quick service.
Trigger kit, instructions, decal and products brochure in a padded shipping envelope.

basix-in.png



Arranged the kit to verify what goes where.
Doesn't appear to be anything missing, even the necessary allen wrenches.

basix-455.png




I've got no complaints about the CZ factory trigger.
It's solid, no wiggle, no play, no creep. Ideal for use as a sporter.
But I find the 455 American Lilja 22lr is spending more time as a bench rifle
than for woods carry and my 455 Varmint 22wmr/17hmr has become my open field choice.
So, time to learn if the Basix will work well for me as a bench trigger.

Instructions say something about dremeling off the pin compression flare,
I'm old school and grabbed a 1/8 inch drill bit and a hand drill, skimmed the flange off
in about 15 seconds by letting the bit ride the dimple in the pin.

1-8drillflush.png



After that a plastic mallet and a 3/32 drift eased the pin out.

3-32push.png



The rear pin is even easier, no flare, tapped out with no fuss.
The trigger spring popped loose and landed on the towel.
Factory trigger removed, time elapsed: about 4 minutes, including taking pictures.
The sear ball pin stays put, so no chasing the detent ball and spring around.

pins-out.png



Wiped old lubricant off all the previously inaccessible surfaces,
made sure no metal shavings from the drilling had ended up where they shouldn't.
Re-read the instructions one more time and dove in.
Could have used an extra hand during assembly.
That's the difference between an experienced pro and an amateur.
Short end of the spring stud drops in the receiver hole where the CZ trigger spring used to be,
small end of the spring fits in spring well in the new trigger,
large end goes over the spring stud hanging out of the receiver.
Lined up the rear trigger holes with the rear holes in the receiver,
while keeping the spring in place on the stud and in the well,
and pushing the new rear pin through the trigger/receiver holes.

Exercise in futility, wife stood there watching me and giggling.
She asked if I wanted some help...naw, I can get it.
I did, after providing the wife with a few more minutes of cheap entertainment.

The new pin that was provided in the Basix kit refused to slide in.
Not a surprise, the older CZ 455 receivers had some production issues with fit/tolerances.
Had to reuse the old rear pin as the new pin shipped with the kit was too tight.
Once the old rear pin was in place, the new front pin slid in easy.
The yellow thread lock on the supplied cup screws was a little heavy,
used a wire brush to remove it and applied blue thread lock instead.
With the cup screws in place, cycled the bolt, rough adjusted the sear screw,
adjusted the spring screw, popped the trigger. Nice feel. No travel, no creep,
no wobble, no play. Cycled the bolt again, adjusted the sear screw to the
amount of bite wanted and that trigger pops with exactly the same feel as my CZ single set trigger.

trigger-set.png



Wiped the ends of the pins clean with an alcohol pad to degrease,
dots of 5 minute epoxy on the ends of the pins, let it set over night.
To remove those epoxy dots at a later time, a hot soldering iron tip
will melt the epoxy, allowing the pins to be pushed out with minimal effort.

epoxy-pin.png



There is a cheaper alternative for an adjustable sear while using the factory 455 trigger.
It involves epoxying a portion of a motherboard standoff screw to the sear plate.

sear-nut.png



According to my trigger pull gauge, range of trigger pull adjustment
is as low as 4 ounces or as high as 36 ounces with my setup.
I readjusted to just over 12 ounces to match the set trigger on my 455 Varmint.
I like the feel and function of the Rifle Basix trigger. Worth the money for my purposes.

I use my 455 for tac comp. I have a Yo Dave system in it now. Would this be a viable set up for me? Thanks.
 
Thanks Top.

Russ, the Yo-Dave is an either-or fix. Choose a spring, choose a shim, that's it.
The Rifle Basix gives you full range adjustment. Increase or decrease spring force
with a turn of the allen wrench, select your sear bite the same way.
Exact results. If that'll help you in competiton, go for it.

I don't have the skills needed for competition shooting,
but I can follow instructions from an install guide.
laugh2.gif
 
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After testing triggers on all my rimfire rifles, I've come to a conclusion.
The Rifle Basix and the CZ SST both improve accuracy for one reason.
Dry firing in the backyard, while sighted on a reference point at 100 yards plus,
displays that reason clearly. Almost no effort is needed to activate the trigger.
That lack of effort translates into less hand/grip muscle movement interacting with
the rifles alignment on the poa. Less movement means greater accuracy.
Set up on the bench on my rear deck, with the crosshairs focused at 100 plus yards,
the target image is stable and clear. Using the upgraded triggers, at the moment of
sear release, the crosshairs stay put on target, with the almost imperceptible shift
of aim happening a moment after release. That movement I attribute to the firing pin motion.
With the woods safe 3.5 lb pulls on my rimfire hunting rifles, movement due to trigger squeeze
is clearly visible, using the same dryfire setup. Crosshairs wobble and attention is needed
to maintain point of aim. With the better CZ set trigger and adjustable Rifle Basix,
there's less effort needed to control point of aim and as a result you get better accuracy.

The upgraded triggers allow less shooter interaction, much like my test rest.
The less I'm involved with making the shot, the better my rifle shoots.
So the Rifle Basix and set trigger don't make the rifle more accurate,
they just keep me from making it more inaccurate. Sad but true.
 
You remember this pic of the epoxy dots on the trigger pin ends?

epoxy-pin.png


Well, bad thing about epoxy is that it's coefficient of thermal expansion
is significantly different than that of steel. As a result over the course
of a couple of weeks, the dots separated from the steel pins and fell off.
Very difficult to get epoxy to bite to a smooth surface.
So now I'm trying it with a heavy blue thread locking cement to set the pins.
What can I say? Learn as ya' go.
 
JUSTIN, very nice write up
i have been useing RB triggers , for some time now 260 match.452.an 455, remmie 700. so has some of my buds
Clay is great to deal with,on the phone,talks to you like he has know you all you life LOL, he also has sent a trigger of choice to me to give as door prize at our TSC match, they are only 40 miles away from here, in NC. an i also got mine in the mail in 2 days.
as far as a trigger upgrade for the CZ line of rimfires, IMO they our top notch
i have used the YO Dave also good but like has been stated hit or miss on the sweet spot,
the small amount of money extra for a rifle basix, is well worth it, to get the pull were you want it
JA i used a dot of JB weld on mine so far has lasted 3 years of shooting.
 
Justin,
Great job on the write up and pictures! Just a thought on the pins you may want to try some bearing mount on them as you slide them in the holes. Or you could take the pins that came with the RB trigger that are over sized and fit them. To get them to fit properly chuck half of the pin in a drill to spin it while holding sandpaper on the other side and carefully polish it until it has zero clearance. Turn the pin around and repeat. Just a thought...
 
Thanks guys.

Bearing mount compound...why didn't I think of that?
There's a bottle of Loctite 680 sitting on the shelf above my workbench.
That's alright, the blue thread-lock is working out ok. Methacrylate ester
has adhered to the pin surfaces and cured in the trigger mount holes.
Pins are staying put. Have to wait and see how it holds up over time.

At the range using bipod and bag, definite difference at the target.
Fewer stray holes showing up and easier to maintain poa when firing.
Looks like the Rifle Basix will have been worth the money for bench use.
Now if I can get a day when the winds aren't howling or it's raining
maybe I can produce another worthwhile target for the 6/5 thread.
 
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Would the Boyd's Tacticool stock require inletting to fit the Timney?

I'm on the fence about the Timney vs. Rifle Basix. They're around the same price and have the same functionality as far as I can tell. Is there any real differentiating factor aside from geometry?