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Dammit Tikka

jbp7hl

Private
Minuteman
Nov 23, 2020
26
4
CSTX
Just picked up my new tikka. It has a screw at the front of the picatinny rail.

It was not screwed in all the way....so I screwed it in.

Well it’s not for the rail it’s a screw for a mirage band and now the front of my rail is lifted.

WTH tikka? Throw me a bone here! Nothing anywhere about this anywhere.
 

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Last edited:
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Did it in my first one as well. You can bend it back down and it stil works. Removing it sucks and you need to heat it with a torch or something as it’s glued on. Try to take the screws out without heat and they will strip before you can stop.

On the plus side, the area 419 20moa rail is very nice :)
 
Just picked up my new tikka. It has a screw at the front of the picatinny rail.

It was not screwed in all the way....so I screwed it in.

Well it’s not for the rail it’s a set screw for some mirage band and now the front of my rail is lifted.

WTH tikka? Throw me a bone here! Nothing anywhere about this anywhere.

This isn't Tikka's fault.

Are you sure it's bent? I've only seen this once, and it went back to normal when the screw was backed out again.
 
This isn't Tikka's fault.

Are you sure it's bent? I've only seen this once, and it went back to normal when the screw was backed out again.

I know, I know. This is on me. True rook mistake.

I backed the screw out and it is still up a bit in the front. 20moa replacement sounds like the right idea, but wow the horror stories of taking the rail off.
 
I know, I know. This is on me. True rook mistake.

I backed the screw out and it is still up a bit in the front. 20moa replacement sounds like the right idea, but wow the horror stories of taking the rail off.

I did the same exact thing on mine, when you're a hammer everything is a nail. Don't believe the hype, I had no issues getting the stock rail off mine with a hair dryer and screw driver!
 
Not an horror to fix it. First heat each screw at a time and when it is hot use an appropriate screw driver and try to unscrew it. If it doesn’t turn. Reheat it. Don’t be afraid of heating it you wont turn it red so you won’t cause any damage.
After removing the screws and if the rail doesn’t get loose heat it on its contact with the action. If necessary use a rubber mallet on the side of the rail.
After removing rail and screws clean the action surface with a solvent taking care not to allow it to get to the stock. Might be better to remove the stock from the barreled action first and work relaxed.
Then clean the screw holes and treads by screwing in and out and solvent to remove old tread glue.
Now you are ready to mount any other rail (or the same if you get it straight) using new screws.
When mounting the rail it’s better to use Loctite #609 on the surface between action and rail and Loctite #222 on the crews tread and after degreasing the surfaces.
 
I know, I know. This is on me. True rook mistake.

I backed the screw out and it is still up a bit in the front. 20moa replacement sounds like the right idea, but wow the horror stories of taking the rail off.
Its really not bad. Just take the screws out and smack it on the sides with a rubber mallet.

OR

Take the screws out, then keep cranking down on that front mirage screw. It will come up :)
 
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Removal of tikka ctr rail:

no hair dryer
no clothes iron
no heat gun
no rubber mallet
no sacrificial rings
no vice
not even any penetrating spray or solvents

Just a Properly sized torx and steady pressure, then a razor blade to remove the epoxy under the rail.
 
I had one of these from a Tac A1 and didn't have a problem after i tightened it. But I guess I didn't tighten it too much. Thinking about it now I'm assuming it goes straight down into the threads?

Threads in the pic rail no threads in receiver. It bottoms out on the receiver and the screw is long enough to pull the rail up. I stopped when it got difficult to turn but the damage was already done.