After reading over the diopter adjustment thread I thought I’d add something that helped me tremendously. I bring it up because one comment in that thread addressed this very subject. The fellow mentioned that he was unable to tell the difference when adjusting from one extreme to the other. This is with the scope at max power I’m guessing as the OP recommended.
I heard another take on this on a podcast with some scope guru who’s name fails me now. But his method was the same except for the power adjustment. He noted that when set to max power it is not uncommon to not be able to fine tune because the reticle looks sharp across a broad range of settings.
Thus he recommended setting the reticle to a much lower setting like 6-7 power. At that size it it much easier to see the small changes when cycling in and out with the adjustment. By trying to pick up the small hash marks or numbers you can much more readily see those changes and recognize when the reticle is at its sharpest setting.
Being fairly new to FFP scopes I was having that issue at full power. I dropped to 7 and sure enough, I was able to fine tune much more easily.
thought I’d pass this on.
I heard another take on this on a podcast with some scope guru who’s name fails me now. But his method was the same except for the power adjustment. He noted that when set to max power it is not uncommon to not be able to fine tune because the reticle looks sharp across a broad range of settings.
Thus he recommended setting the reticle to a much lower setting like 6-7 power. At that size it it much easier to see the small changes when cycling in and out with the adjustment. By trying to pick up the small hash marks or numbers you can much more readily see those changes and recognize when the reticle is at its sharpest setting.
Being fairly new to FFP scopes I was having that issue at full power. I dropped to 7 and sure enough, I was able to fine tune much more easily.
thought I’d pass this on.