Suppressors Diving into HUB. Direct threads or buy 6 QD mounts?

[zimm17]

I discovered the thread about AAC restoration and signed up to have my SDN converted to a Ranger 7. The website says it comes with a direct thread adapter for 5/8-24. Good I need that for a 6.5CR bolt gun.

Now I also need to outfit 4 hosts with 1/2"-28 threads, and 2 that need 5/8-24. Should I buy 6 quick release mounts? Or buy an additional 1/2-28 direct thread adapter and skip the QD? If I do that, maybe get some thread protectors or use my old flash hiders to protect the threads?

Realistically, I'm not swapping these in the field, but outfitting a chosen rifle to hit the range that day. I'd hate to spend $600 on mounts. I already did that with the pile of 51T adapters I have.

Another option is AAC's STAMP mount- let's me keep all my 51T's and screw on the HUB suppressor for all my AR's. Then the bolt gun gets to use the direct thread adapter for bench shooting.

If you do recommend QD, who's making the best ones right now? I haven't researched this stuff since I bought the SDN probably 10-15 years ago.

 

[hlee]

I like the Rearden/Plan B mounts and adapters.

Playing musical chairs with mounts and suppressors gets old after a while, though I still find myself doing it to some extent. It’s really nice to just grab a rifle and a suppressor and know they will fit together.

And, I think of the mount as a sacrificial set of threads. If I were to somehow bugger the threads on the mount, the barrel threading is still fine. I have seen a few (not many, but some) posts from shooters that were able to cross thread their direct thread suppressor to their barrel, then have compounding problems of buggered barrel threading and a baffle strike. Beyond that, the threading on a mount/adapter tends to be more coarse than barrel threading, which I think would tend to lessen the chances of cross threading them to each other.

The plan B mounts aren’t really “QD” like a trilug-it takes a few revolutions to seat them, but they have a taper behind the threads that does a great job of sealing the threads from the fouling. I have read that they can still carbon lock, if you shoot so much that you build up a lip of carbon behind that taper, but it hasn’t been an issue in my shooting. No tools are required to mount the can to the rifle, but I have-on occasion- needed a wrench to remove one. And, rarely, I have spun the can off of the adapter- leaving the adapter on the mount. (I grease the can/adapter interface so they don’t gall or carbon lock with use)

I prefer the Rearden mounts over the Plan B mounts because the Rearden mounts have wrench flats on their base. (The cherry bomb mounts do have a surface to mount a socket on their face) If you spin the mount off in the can, you can still spin the mount off of the suppressor. That’s not a really big deal on HUB suppressors, because you can still remove the adapter and access the Plan B mount from the other side. But, I have a Q can that is not HUB, meaning that sticking a mount w/o wrench flats becomes an ordeal.

I also have some of the YHM Phantom mounts/adapters. When they mate together as intended they; lock up tight, repeatably; are easy to remove; and are almost as QD as a trilug. But, getting a mount/adapter that ratchet together to that Goldilocks last click is luck of the draw. Of the 3-4 that I own, I don’t have 1 mount that mates perfectly with all adapters, nor 1 adapter that mates with all mounts. YHM says that being a 1/2 click off doesn’t matter because of the taper, but the can will rattle slightly on the mount, and I have an idea that is not good for precision. That said, they work well when you do find the mount/adapter combo that pair well together.

 

[jabonra]

+1 for rearden, check these out for a muzzle device haven't seen one cheaper

https://fpmgunworks.com/whistling-bunghole/

 

[MrMcCrackin]

I had a suppressor core reworked and converted to HUB last year - was in the exact same position.

The reality was that not only was it cheaper to just go Direct Thread but easier to keep track of everything.

 

[zimm17]

I had a suppressor core reworked and converted to HUB last year - was in the exact same position.

The reality was that not only was it cheaper to just go Direct Thread but easier to keep track of everything.

That's what I'm going to start with. I'm having them add a 1/2-28 direct thread-Hub adapter in addition to the 5/8-24 it comes with. That covers all my rifles. Then I can start the process of removing and selling off 6 or so 51T adapters.

If I feel the need for better engagement, I'll check out the Reardon's mentioned above.

 

[MrMcCrackin]

I compared lots of different options, since I was starting from scratch - area419, yhm, tbac, plan b, keymo, etc.

Came down to weight and cost, I was hung up on having a brake as a sacrificial baffle. I quickly got over that once I learned that is only recommended for short barrels.

Ultimately with Direct Thread is lighter, cheaper and free up internal volume in the suppressor.

If I was hell bent on a QD system I would go Area419.

 

[Sum Ting Wong]

I have both 1/2 and 5/8 direct thread adapters, but ended up going with the Rearden Atlas mount(you can run any Plan B muzzle device). It’s way easier just having muzzle devices on every rifle I want to run a can on. It would be nice if Rearden’s brakes were ever in stock…

 

[Trevor300wsm]

Direct thread. Shorter, lighter, and way cheaper. And I have no idea how all these people are “damaging” their threads to the point they are so worried about having something “protecting” them when the rifle isn’t in use.

The option I went with was to buy a suppressor for each rifle. I can’t imagine having to swap cans around all the time for so many rifles. Plus having to check zero afterwards.

 

[kthomas]

I use Rearden mounts and have been really happy with them.

 

[hlee]

Didn’t want to pay $100 per mount because it is too expensive. Decided to buy suppressors + $200 tax stamp(s) for each rifle. This is the sort of financial gymnastics I’ve come to expect on SH…

 

[zimm17]

I wish I could afford that, lol. Every few years I get into a cycle of updating all my guns and it costs a fortune. The first was swapping all the high end quad rails to Keymod, then to Mlok.... Now QD mounts....

 

[Maurygold]

Area419 here and like it. I also use surefire for gas and have cgs and dead airs for bolt

 

[roosterpig]

I’ll get flamed for this. Love my ASR mounts. My rifles also don’t see super high round counts like other folks, though. Will prob get flamed for that too

 

[kthomas]

I’ll get flamed for this. Love my ASR mounts. My rifles also don’t see super high round counts like other folks. Will prob get flamed for that too

No, if it works, it works.

I think @Terry Cross uses the ASR mounts with great success as well.

 

[roosterpig]

No, if it works, it works.

I think @Terry Cross uses the ASR mounts with great success as well.

Heyyyyy. A fellow ASR junkie!

 

[Trevor300wsm]

Didn’t want to pay $100 per mount because it is too expensive. Decided to buy suppressors + $200 tax stamp(s) for each rifle. This is the sort of financial gymnastics I’ve come to expect on SH…

“Financial gymnastics” to one person may not even be noticeable by someone else. When someone buys a rifle, they usually buy an optic for it as well. A suppressor is no different. Just an added cost. As is so commonly said here on the Hide…..”go be poor somewhere else”.

 

[Smith1]

I’ll get flamed for this. Love my ASR mounts. My rifles also don’t see super high round counts like other folks, though. Will prob get flamed for that too

Probably as much as I will saying I like the Q cherry bombs better than the Reardens . I had terrible luck with ASR loosening up on my chimera 300

 

[chevy_man]

Didn’t want to pay $100 per mount because it is too expensive. Decided to buy suppressors + $200 tax stamp(s) for each rifle. This is the sort of financial gymnastics I’ve come to expect on SH…

I buy direct mounts.

I have acquired a few cans now, but they still move around depending on the day. Only one that doesn't move is the one that's carbon locked to my match rifle right now...

 

[roosterpig]

Probably as much as I will saying I like the Q cherry bombs better than the Reardens . I had terrible luck with ASR loosening up on my chimera 300

Shun the non believer!!! Haha.

 

[Chief_Rick]

I just ordered my first suppressor with a HUB mount. It will primarily reside on switch barrel rifle - 308 and 300 PRC. Will also use it on my hunting rifle, which is a 16" 308.

I don't necessarily need QD but would like a flash hider on the hunting rifle and either flash hider or brake on the switch barrels.

Are any of the referenced systems (Rearden, Plan B, ASR) or the Surefire adapter from B&T any more reliable than another with regards to accuracy/return to zero?

 

[Maurygold]

Skip the b&t one it has some issues and the new better surefire made on came out.

I use the 419 which doesn’t fit your use case. Of those the rearden is the most commonly used and talked very highly of

 

[kthomas]

I just ordered my first suppressor with a HUB mount. It will primarily reside on switch barrel rifle - 308 and 300 PRC. Will also use it on my hunting rifle, which is a 16" 308.

I don't necessarily need QD but would like a flash hider on the hunting rifle and either flash hider or brake on the switch barrels.

Are any of the referenced systems (Rearden, Plan B, ASR) or the Surefire adapter from B&T any more reliable than another with regards to accuracy/return to zero?

I have great experience with Rearden. Return to zero is perfect when removing and reinstalling the suppressor.

I don't have experiences with the other mounts. @Terry Cross uses the ASR mounts for his applications, which is typically LE. I imagine the RTZ is great on those or he wouldn't spec them.

 

[Chief_Rick]

I've ordered an Atlas XL QD suppressor mount and the R2 flash hider for my hunting rifle.

Will be ordering either a single port or double port brake for each of the switch-barrels.

These will be mated to a Nommax33.

Now to wait for everything to arrive.

Appreciate all the replies.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

For qd brakes the best I have used is griffin taper. It's the easiest and most reliable and there are a ton of different muzzle devices and taper mount adapters for your hub. It's a self centering design and there is nothing mechanical to fail. I also use a bunch of thread on adapters, a b&T rotax so I can use guns with surefire breaks and will be ordering a hux soon.

Hub makes it so your can is only an adapter away from being compatible. I would not buy a center-fire rifle can that is not HUB. It future proofs the can.

 

[carbonbased]

I’m a DT man and I think that’s the smart way to go. But couldn’t help myself and just bought into the SF system for my AR and the TBAC SR mount + Dominus for a couple precision rifles. Like, within the last week or so.

My reasons were (in order of impt):

1. To limit cans backing off on my AR
2. Curiosity, esp. about TBAC
3. First world probs: faster to switch a can onto a different gun

I am NOT concerned with cross-threading my DT cans.

When pdog shooting, I tend to bring 3-5 guns. Up to three used to share a can. Now it’ll be quicker to swap the TBAC from gun to gun. Like I said, first world probs. I’m dumb.

So far I’ve used the Surefire system on the AR (~300 rds), and I’m quite pleased. Very fast on/off.

There is a little rearward gas leakage even though I’m using a four-prong flash hider mount that’s supposed to limit that. I knew about the leakage going in, and it hasn’t bugged me at all so far (famous last words?). It probably helps that I’m using their flow-through can.

Only shot the Dominus SR for five rounds to test it to make sure everything works. Seems awesome. Pretty darn fast to mount/dismount, but not as lightening fast as the SF. Zero diff in the real world, speed-wise.

Between the SF and TBAC SR systems, the SF’s strengths seem to be ARs (all steel, fast) and the TBAC seems ahead with precision guns. The lock-up of the TBAC inspires confidence that it’s attaching in a consistent way while the SF a tiny bit less so.

I have no proof of anything in the preceding paragraph; it’s just a gut reaction. We’ll see how it works out.

Wrap up:
Really, for me, the quick SF system is great for my AR, glad I got it. And I don’t NEED the TBAC SR system but it is convenient. So, unless you’re impatient or paranoid about cross-threading, I suggest DT for bolt guns as DT has worked great for me in the past in that arena.

 

[carbonbased]

Dumb Q for you HUB owners: what stops the HUB adapter from unscrewing from the suppressor body when you dismount a DT can? Perhaps a dab of rocksett or red locktite?

I assume HUB is righty-tighty? Couldn’t find that info during a five-minute search, but I’m sure someone will slap a link at me lol.

For the record HUB seems like a good idea to me, but I have no experience with it.

 

[AMGtuned]

Dumb Q for you HUB owners: what stops the HUB adapter from unscrewing from the suppressor body when you dismount a DT can? Perhaps a dab of rocksett or red locktite?

I assume HUB is righty-tighty? Couldn’t find that info during a five-minute search, but I’m sure someone will slap a link at me lol.

For the record HUB seems like a good idea to me, but I have no experience with it.

I Rocksett all my proximal adapters in. Wouldn't want one backing out on my brakes. I use Rocksett because it withstand higher heat than Red Loctite; the blast chamber/mount area can likely get hotter than Loctite can withstand.

I also use Griffin taper mounts. 100% legit they are.

 

[hlee]

Dumb Q for you HUB owners: what stops the HUB adapter from unscrewing from the suppressor body when you dismount a DT can? Perhaps a dab of rocksett or red locktite?

I assume HUB is righty-tighty? Couldn’t find that info during a five-minute search, but I’m sure someone will slap a link at me lol.

For the record HUB seems like a good idea to me, but I have no experience with it.

Nothing. Unlike some others, I do not use a thread locker on the adapter. In fact, I removed a can just the other day that left the adapter on the mount. The adapter was easily removed with a nut-rounder 2000. (It wasn’t stuck, I just needed a bit of leverage.) I grease the interfaces so that the adapters are easily removable. Keep a wrench in the shooting bag for those times like above.

 

[Maurygold]

419 has reverse threading between the mounts to prevent it.

 

[AMGtuned]

419 has reverse threading between the mounts to prevent it.

For their suppressor adapter? How's that work if the tube is standard "HUB" threading? I'm admittedly under-researched on the 419 system.

I know of a 22lr system that uses left threading on the proximal end of the can, and (because 22lr is often DT) it helps considerably under the circumstances.

Edit: missed the "between the mounts" part. I'd still thread lock the adapters

 

[kthomas]

For their suppressor adapter? How's that work if the tube is standard "HUB" threading? I'm admittedly under-researched on the 419 system.

I know of a 22lr system that uses left threading on the proximal end of the can, and (because 22lr is often DT) it helps considerably under the circumstances.

Edit: missed the "between the mounts" part. I'd still thread lock the adapters

The muzzle device is probably left hand thread when you screw the suppressor on

 

[jabonra]

The CAT guys have like a left hand plan b for their md to can interface, they have a hub adapter too

 

[oldrifleman]

All my CATs are hub mounts but I am using the area 419 hub adapters.

 

[jabonra]

All my CATs are hub mounts but I am using the area 419 hub adapters.

They offer them all in hub, but they have their own TSF mounting interface which is a coarse left hand thread and a taper. They sell a hub adapter to use TSF on whatever can you want as well

https://hansohnbrothers.com/shop/combat-application-technologies/accessories/mounts-and-pistons/cat-tsf-x/

I would like to see it catch on like plan b/rearden since only cat makes muzzle devices for now

 

[semifan1]

Another for Rearden. Redoing all my mounts and muzzle devices. On cans that can't I'm sending them out to be jail broken. I get tired of having to use 1 can with one gun. I want them all to be with the same mounts for quick change

 

[vanrichten]

I’ve gone mostly all into the SF brake. The ease of moving things around makes it a no brainer for me. I have 1 direct thread, an old Gemtech HVT on an AR10, and it annoys the hell out of me threading that can on every time I want to use it. And I have to take it off to put the rifle in the safe. It hasn’t annoyed me enough to never use that can again though, but that’s probably coming before long.

Have a Silencerco Sythe STM on order which will be my first jump into a HUB can. I’ll more than likely just buy the SF HUB adapter on it and never change it but who knows.

I have 8 SF cans currently. One YHM Tubo K that lives on a PS90 with a tri-lug. I’m curious about the HUB for sure. Hopefully it lives up to the hype and I will expand beyond SF for my future cans, especially on my bolt precision rifles.

 

[Millennium200]

Had my SDN converted to HUB a few years ago and went to ASR and have not looked back. I did send the Bravo hub in with my can when I had it converted per the company doing the work and it turned out great. I'm so glad to be rid of the 51t stuff that I had. I used ECCO Machine for the conversion and am super happy with the work.