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Suppressors Do Quick Detach Flash Hider Mounts need Timed?

Ray11bb4

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 5, 2009
234
17
Columbus, Ohio
I have a Surefire Socom 762 RC and a SilencerCo Hybrid 46. The question that I have is if I buy flash hider mounts in place of muzzle breaks do I need to time the mounts? I have a Ruger American .450 Bushmaster that has a SilencerCo ASR muzzle brake that I installed without timing the break. I will only fire the rifle suppressed and it shoots well even though the break is not timed properly to the bore. I just bought a DD M4V7 and I have a Surefire Socom flash hider on hand to install. I am thinking of going with the Dead Air Armament Key Mod mount so that I can use my SilencerCo Hybrid 46 in place of the Surefire. If I get the Dead Air flash hider would there be any advantage to timing the mount or can I just screw it on with some rockset and be good to go?
 
The question can't be answered by anyone but yourself.
Sight the weapon in without the suppressor, then see which direction it's off with the suppressor.
Ideally you will be off either up or down, and therefore won't need to time the muzzle device.
I use the Hellfire system that allows for using timing shims without affecting brake orientation.
This also allows use of suppressors from different companies on the same weapon, although essentially only one would be able to be timed if required.
 
I use SF SoCom 762's with their WarComp muzzle brake that is asymmetric in port design; timed one way for right hand shooters and 90 degrees different for left hand shooters. So, the the actual orientation does not matter for mounting the suppressor, but you would want to correctly time the brake for your shooting preference when using the rifle without the suppressor.
 
Depends on a few things. In general they don't. But here are some exceptions:

Timing to the bore. Elite Iron times their direct thread cans to be TDC (their thread over brake models are timed if you time the brake). KAC times the can to the rifle with the QDC mount and has a pin that lines up the can TDC so it has to be timed regardless of whether it's the brake or flash hider. In fact, KAC's MAMS brake I don't think needs to be timed except to time the can. In general, if the can was designed this way, the change in POI should be vertical only and repeatable. For direct thread, Elite Iron will actually send you a timing nut you mark on your rifle and they'll thread the can to match that so as to be TDC when installed. So if your can times to the mount, you certainly want to time the mount regardless of what it is.

Note: like was mentioned above, if not designed to be installed TDC, you may have to "play" with it to find out where to time it so it'll give you that vertical POI change vs. an angular one. This is more important with some cans vs. others but more or less up to the user to do or not. If you do this with a flash hider know that the tines may be "crooked" or rather, you won't have a flat on the bottom or top. This is a trade off --time the can TDC to your mount, or time your mount so that you have a flat on the bottom or top depending on what the user wants, which can be cosmetic or not.

Timing for environmental reasons. If you have, say, a 3 or 4 prong or a flat bottom flash hider you may want to time it so the flat portion is on bottom so as not to disturb dust as much, or you may want to time it so the flat spot is on top so as to aid in the use of optics, especially at night and especially with night optics. A 4 prong can be timed to do both to a degree. As in the above, it won't aid in timing the can. But know many, if not most, flash hider mounts are intended to not be timed and timing the can isn't considered an issue by the mfg.

Function or looks. Some need to be timed because of the design, flash hider or brake, because the slots may be designed to be in a certain location to work as intended. Other people just time so they look better, so the tines aren't "crooked". In that case it's cosmetic and up to the user.

Use good shims. I prefer the ones AAC sells (I'm sure other sell 'em to but I have a lot and haven't had to look for 'em). The peel washers can be a pain to use and I don't feel they are as good as dedicated, sized shims. Don't overtorque the mount, that's important too.

FWIW, I don't time flash hiders unless they need to be, such as with the KAC mounts. With AAC or Saker flash hiders, I don't time 'em, I let 'em line up where they line up. If the mfg. indicates to line up the mount so the can is TDC, I will. If I have questions, I generally call the mfg. and ask them.



 
^^ As an aside related to timing for "environmental reasons", this Surefire QD "Warden" forward directing blast diffuser is useful for not worrying about the orientation of the muzzle brake lateral output; limiting dust blow-up if shooting prone especially if shooting low around a barrier and your otherwise horizontal muzzle brake flutes go vertical that really stir up the loose debris. Shown on a Noveske 5.56 N4 10.5".

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Clean both sets of threads, drop in some rocksett and screw it on. I’ll 2nd not over tightening as even a small compression of the crown can make an impact.