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Join the contestmy experience has been that if you banging steel it doesn’t matter that much. If I’m shouting tiny groups I want it exact.
Most likely not.
It really depends. Do you have a stable node for your load? A stable node will absorb small incremental issues like this without changing point of impact.
Now, if you are shooting ELR, then you’ll want to be more careful. It shouldn’t show up at mid ranges like 500-800 yards.
This exactly... All depends how wide your node is...
Ever taken apart factory gmm and weighed it out? You might be surprised
You are correct. That is a good example of why being in a good node makes the difference.1 tenth can matter, when I do ladder tests at 300 yds, I load in .01 increments. One example recently, I had a good load running 64 grs but I wanted to check so I loaded .01 increments from 63.5 to 65. Same point of aim, when it hit 64 the bullet went to center of the target, 64.1 and 64.2 followed with a 0 vertical and about an inch total spread horizontal. 64.3 went wild 2" and at 64.4 it went high left and started to rotate clockwise. I now load 64.1 because if I'm a couple kernels off either way it makes no difference. If I was loading 64.2 and got a tenth over it would absolutely screw up a group. Would I miss a deer? No. As far as factory ammo, years ago I loaded hunting rounds for a bud of mine. (non-shooter) When he got to camp he had about 3 boxes of factory ammo, I asked why. His reply was that it was PREMIUM ammo and he knew every shot would be exactly the same. I told him that I would bet him that 3 of those rounds weren't within 50 fps of each other. Set up the chrono and I was wrong, they weren't within 75 fps. On a challenge I ran 3 of mine thru, 2 were exactly the same and 1 was 1 fps off. Worked brass and weighed charges win every time. With that said, factory ammo is much better now BUT still not as good.
1 tenth can matter, when I do ladder tests at 300 yds, I load in .01 increments. One example recently, I had a good load running 64 grs but I wanted to check so I loaded .01 increments from 63.5 to 65. Same point of aim, when it hit 64 the bullet went to center of the target, 64.1 and 64.2 followed with a 0 vertical and about an inch total spread horizontal. 64.3 went wild 2" and at 64.4 it went high left and started to rotate clockwise. I now load 64.1 because if I'm a couple kernels off either way it makes no difference. If I was loading 64.2 and got a tenth over it would absolutely screw up a group. Would I miss a deer? No. As far as factory ammo, years ago I loaded hunting rounds for a bud of mine. (non-shooter) When he got to camp he had about 3 boxes of factory ammo, I asked why. His reply was that it was PREMIUM ammo and he knew every shot would be exactly the same. I told him that I would bet him that 3 of those rounds weren't within 50 fps of each other. Set up the chrono and I was wrong, they weren't within 75 fps. On a challenge I ran 3 of mine thru, 2 were exactly the same and 1 was 1 fps off. Worked brass and weighed charges win every time. With that said, factory ammo is much better now BUT still not as good.
I'm not into slow.That's actually a great example of a terrible node. I would be looking up down for the widest node possible
I've actually been wondering just how much variance there is in factory "Match" ammo. I've always wondered if we reloaders get too anal about some of this stuff. I'd love to cut down on time spent reloading, and weighting powder charges is the most time consuming aspect of reloading rifle rounds for me. Factory ammo seems to work fine for non-benchrest stuff.
Anybody have some factory ammo they'd be willing to dissect?
I didn't understand this test.... or perhaps there are some typos? Was this really 23.5, not 25.5 gr? 25.5 is withing 24.4-24.6? That wouldn't be true either way. Not being a jerk, just confusedI just did a little test on the edge of what I think was my node for my suppressed AR. I believe the node started at 24.4gr and went to around 24.9ish. I loaded 20rds at 23.3gr and 20rds at 25.5gr.
The 20 rds of 23.3 had an ES of almost 80 w/ an SD of 22 I think
The 20 rds of 23.5 had an ES of 33 and an SD of around 11
Everything was loaded the same way, same brass, same prep, same everything. Powder was charged on two chargemasters.
IF the +/- 0.1 held true, then my 25.5gr loading would be within 24.4-24.6gr and falls within the node, and was shown in my little test, albeit a small test.
That means the 23.3gr would fall between 23.2-23.4gr which puts some rounds in the node and some out, and the ES/SD seem to correlate to that. Idk, I may be way off but my little 40 rd home test showed me that and I thought it was interesting
I didn't understand this test.... or perhaps there are some typos? Was this really 23.5, not 25.5 gr? 25.5 is withing 24.4-24.6? That wouldn't be true either way. Not being a jerk, just confused![]()
^^ Got it. That is interesting. Thanks for the clarification.
Your test seems to be saying that +/-.1 can matter if you are on the edge of a node or in a narrow node. The +/-.1 is not really significant in the middle of a wide node.
If that is true, it also aligns with my general observations. In load development, I always do the last check by firing a "group" at -.2, -.1, 0, +.1, and +.2 of the designated charge just to confirm I'm at the middle, and to see how wide that node is. Generally, I haven't had to re-tune a load often.
FGMM 260 had a spread of .6 grains.I've actually been wondering just how much variance there is in factory "Match" ammo. I've always wondered if we reloaders get too anal about some of this stuff. I'd love to cut down on time spent reloading, and weighting powder charges is the most time consuming aspect of reloading rifle rounds for me. Factory ammo seems to work fine for non-benchrest stuff.
Anybody have some factory ammo they'd be willing to dissect?
Ever taken apart factory gmm and weighed it out? You might be surprised
Exactly. This is what a load test is for. You want to find a charge that has a lot of room for temp swings, different brass thickness, variations in charge at, etc.... I see so many guys chasing groups with their load test rather than looking for a consistent range. That’s not a way to find what you’re looking for. When you get the right charge you can change temps, brass, .1-.2 gr, etc... and it will still shoot good.^^ Got it. That is interesting. Thanks for the clarification.
Your test seems to be saying that +/-.1 can matter if you are on the edge of a node or in a narrow node. The +/-.1 is not really significant in the middle of a wide node.
If that is true, it also aligns with my general observations. In load development, I always do the last check by firing a "group" at -.2, -.1, 0, +.1, and +.2 of the designated charge just to confirm I'm at the middle, and to see how wide that node is. Generally, I haven't had to re-tune a load often.
I've actually been wondering just how much variance there is in factory "Match" ammo. I've always wondered if we reloaders get too anal about some of this stuff. I'd love to cut down on time spent reloading, and weighting powder charges is the most time consuming aspect of reloading rifle rounds for me. Factory ammo seems to work fine for non-benchrest stuff.
Anybody have some factory ammo they'd be willing to dissect?
I'm not into slow.
Well, since you asked, I’d be looking a lot closer between at 28.5 and 29.3, but using 0.2 gr steps instead of 0.5. gr steps, especially for such a small charge weight.Help me out here. Why do I care how wide the accuracy node is? I know this is heresy, but hear me out. Im reloading on a single stage press. The RCBS Chargemaster is SLOW throwing a powder charge. Slow enough that I can confirm the weight on a gem pro, adjust the weight to within the accuracy of that scale, and seat a bullet before the next change is thrown. So, weighing to within 0.02 grains is no more time, and essentially no more effort, than weighing to 0.1 grains. I'm also using temp stable powders from hodgdon's extreme powder line (target, H4350, etc). Finally, where is the node in the chart below? Note, the highest charge weight had a pierced primer, so I'm pretty sure I hit the top end...
View attachment 7342698
Help me out here. Why do I care how wide the accuracy node is? I know this is heresy, but hear me out. Im reloading on a single stage press. The RCBS Chargemaster is SLOW throwing a powder charge. Slow enough that I can confirm the weight on a gem pro, adjust the weight to within the accuracy of that scale, and seat a bullet before the next change is thrown. So, weighing to within 0.02 grains is no more time, and essentially no more effort, than weighing to 0.1 grains. I'm also using temp stable powders from hodgdon's extreme powder line (target, H4350, etc). Finally, where is the node in the chart below? Note, the highest charge weight had a pierced primer, so I'm pretty sure I hit the top end...
View attachment 7342698
You are mistaken if you think that powder weight consistency translates into consistent velocity automatically.
I think we're on the same page, except that those are 0.3 gr increments. If you don't have the ability or desire to control for as many variables as you can (like if you are using a progressive press and can/will not weight every charge), you want a wide node. But, if you are weighing/trickling every charge, live and shoot primarily on the coastal plain with relatively low elevation variability, and also experience low seasonal temperature shifts because you live on the gulf coast, a wide node isn't necessarily as important.Well, since you asked, I’d be looking a lot closer between at 28.5 and 29.3, but using 0.2 gr steps instead of 0.5. gr steps, especially for such a small charge weight.
Sure, your scales are plenty accurate, but how well can you control weather conditions, elevation changes, powder lot changes and variations in brass? Maybe you can and have the time and control of these factors, but for people who shoot a lot in varying conditions, locations and use components that may change throughout the life of a barrel, the size of the node matters.
You need to run some ladder tests and measure the results on paper to find the right node. Those charts aren’t going to tell you the whole story. I’ve found some very repeatable velocities that grouped like crap in my rifle and some nodes where I can be further off in velocity and still be very consistent on paper until you get way further out in range.
Meh
Paper lies.
Good crony or vertical at distance.
You can then tune groups with jump if necessary.
Haha, I seem to bust my own myths biannually.Ask 3 people the best way to run a load development and you'll get a dozen conflicting answers.
Paper never lies. Put your paper at distance and really judge.Meh
Paper lies.
Good crony or vertical at distance.
You can then tune groups with jump if necessary.
Paper far is as boring as paper closePaper never lies. Put your paper at distance and really judge.
Illustrates just how few people actually know how to tune a rifle.Ask 3 people the best way to run a load development and you'll get a dozen conflicting answers.
Haha, I seem to bust my own myths biannually.