DPMS Sportical 308 Killing Brass

[steinmaster]

I reloaded a batch of 308 ammo for a friend to break-in his DPMS 308. His rifle dented and bent most of the case necks. The brass was also heavily scratched. When I reloaded the brass from his rifle, all the primer pockets were loose. I used brand new Lapua brass, 168 gr Hornady Amax, and 44 grains Varget. I never saw a rifle mess up brass like his. His rifle is brand new. Is this usual for AR10's? Prior to this I only reloaded for bolt guns.

 

[givey]

The AR's are hard on brass. I shoot an Armalite AR-10 and the chambers tend to be a little larger than a bolt gun. A also shoot a .308 bolt gun and have to segragate brass. Lake City brass tends to hold up better in my AR
and I tend to shoot lighter loads in the AR. Most reloading guides now publish service rifle or A/R data separate and using that data will be easier on the brass.

 

[Silverbullet2]

You should forgo the Lapua brass in an AR-10 platform. You will not see any difference on paper or steel. Run Lake City brass as it is thicker, so reduce the powder charge. I am helping a buddy to losd for his SR-25 and 42.5 grains wasn't enough to cycle the action reliably, but 43, and 43.5 was 100%. Brass was great and didn't show any signs of being best up. Good luck, J

 

[FLIGHT762]

The AR's are hard on brass. Lake City brass tends to hold up better in my AR.
Most reloading guides now publish service rifle or A/R data separate and using that data will be easier on the brass.

You should forgo the Lapua brass in an AR-10 platform.

^^^^^^^^^^^ QFT^^^^^^^^^ Welcome to gas gun loading. Gas guns will usually not be able to handle loads that a bolt gun will and they can beat the living shit out of the brass as you found out.

 

[bcrich]

The heavy scratches can be from sharp feed lips on the magazines, I had the same scratches but I filed down the sharp edges & it helped...necks still take a beating but that's the nature of the beast.

 

[oldfudd]

I run a Rock River LAR-8 using LC brass. Haven't had any problems with beat up brass. I'm using a RCBS small base sizer, and realize that I might shorten the life of the brass, but I don't have any worries about the ability to go to full battery. Previously, using a FAL, I had battery challenges, and consequently was forced to use small base dies. Just do it out of habit with the RRA and a ratty AR.

 

[jlow]

I shoot a LaRue OBR heavy (308) with Lapua brass 175 SMK, been up in the 44 to 45 grain of Varget and have not seen any problem with primers pockets, dents. Slight scratches on the neck yes and I am currently on the 5th load on the same brass and the primer pockets are just fine.

Dents are due to the brass deflector and the way to get rid of that is to put a dab of black silicone caulking on the tip of the deflector. You should not have loose primer pockets.

 

[JRM83]

Echoing what others have said, scratches can also be from the barrel extension. Unless the scratches are super deep or the dents are big enough to cause pretty severe damage its not worth worrying about. Its just part of shooting an ar. The loose primer pockets are a problem, possible that the load is too hot for that gun.

 

[FLIGHT762]

O/P, one thing you can try is the Tubbs Carrier Weight System (CWS). I use it in my 308 gas guns and it has helped the beating of the brass. It costs about $55.00 and I think they're worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGdV-KKQ-A8

As the video points out, some uppers have to be separated from the lowers to install the CWS. No big deal to do so. I use the heaviest weight. I also bought his flat buffer spring.

 

[204 AR]

An adjustable gas block will also help save the brass. There's no reason you shouldn't get 10 loadings + out of that Lapua brass, I load 308, 260, 300 Saum and 243 for DPMS AR's and get long brass life out of Lapua and Win brass.

You want something that has a short brass life, try an M1 Garand. Still love that rifle though!