Anyone have any experience with applying dura coat or dura touch finishes? Curious if this is something that can be done by an individual or needs to be professionally done. I’m also curious as to what it cost you
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Gunsmithing Dura coat
- Thread starter Griffin4590
- Start date
Re: Dura coat
Done a few myself...runs about ~$18 for 8 oz....I do it with a airbrush and it has worked out well for me. Very easy to use, simple to follow instructions. Just be sure to degrease thoroughly!
Done a few myself...runs about ~$18 for 8 oz....I do it with a airbrush and it has worked out well for me. Very easy to use, simple to follow instructions. Just be sure to degrease thoroughly!
Re: Dura coat
I've used it on pistols and pistol parts. Used an airbrush to apply. It's nice not having to bake it, but to really let it cure requires like a month of time.
Along with thourough degreasing, I found it beneficial to make sure there are no sharp corners or edges. It seems like it's really easy for the Duracoat to get scraped off a sharp corner/edge.
I've used it on pistols and pistol parts. Used an airbrush to apply. It's nice not having to bake it, but to really let it cure requires like a month of time.
Along with thourough degreasing, I found it beneficial to make sure there are no sharp corners or edges. It seems like it's really easy for the Duracoat to get scraped off a sharp corner/edge.
Re: Dura coat
Same here, I apply the finish via a Iwata airbrush and small compressor. Recently I've been sending large firearm parts to a local blasting operation to have blasted with Aluminum Oxide prior to degreasing and duracoating; I find the finish to be a lot more durable as should be expected. Small parts I usually just degrease and then apply the duracoat.
By the way, to fully degrease a part, sometimes you may have to hit it with a heat gun, or bake the part a bit to draw out all the oil. I've had a few instances where the "hidden" oil later surfaced and messed up the finish later. You can bake the finished part to speed up the curing process.
Have fun!
Same here, I apply the finish via a Iwata airbrush and small compressor. Recently I've been sending large firearm parts to a local blasting operation to have blasted with Aluminum Oxide prior to degreasing and duracoating; I find the finish to be a lot more durable as should be expected. Small parts I usually just degrease and then apply the duracoat.
By the way, to fully degrease a part, sometimes you may have to hit it with a heat gun, or bake the part a bit to draw out all the oil. I've had a few instances where the "hidden" oil later surfaced and messed up the finish later. You can bake the finished part to speed up the curing process.
Have fun!
Re: Dura coat
It can be done by an individual and is not difficult really. I do agree that blasting the part is the best way, along with making sure to get all solvents and oils off. I use their degreaser/stripper and its always worked well. I use a small hvlp spray gun, but an airbrush would probably be best. Just take your time and get the mix right. It will generally turn out well. It gets just alittle more complicated when you start doing multiple colors, but not a lot.
It can be done by an individual and is not difficult really. I do agree that blasting the part is the best way, along with making sure to get all solvents and oils off. I use their degreaser/stripper and its always worked well. I use a small hvlp spray gun, but an airbrush would probably be best. Just take your time and get the mix right. It will generally turn out well. It gets just alittle more complicated when you start doing multiple colors, but not a lot.
Re: Dura coat
I used duracoat on my Rem700 5R and my 40 S&W. I used two different colors and I purchased the shake n spray kits.
The prep work was tedious and time consuming.
Be sure you are in a well ventilated area and are wearing junky clothes and latex gloves; remove your watch and anything you don't want paint droplets to touch. The stuff has a really strong smell.
Go very easy. I told myself to applications light and I was still way to heavy on the first application...it makes a mess that is tedious to correct. Set aside a few hours to apply multiple light coats.
Although they say it dries and 10 minutes and you can use it the next day, the reality is that you don't want to touch your firearm for a couple of weeks. The duracoat really takes some time to fully cure, and until it does, your gun is really vulnerable to nicks and scratches. I have a couple of annoying ones on the RHS of my receiver.
Good luck!
I used duracoat on my Rem700 5R and my 40 S&W. I used two different colors and I purchased the shake n spray kits.
The prep work was tedious and time consuming.
Be sure you are in a well ventilated area and are wearing junky clothes and latex gloves; remove your watch and anything you don't want paint droplets to touch. The stuff has a really strong smell.
Go very easy. I told myself to applications light and I was still way to heavy on the first application...it makes a mess that is tedious to correct. Set aside a few hours to apply multiple light coats.
Although they say it dries and 10 minutes and you can use it the next day, the reality is that you don't want to touch your firearm for a couple of weeks. The duracoat really takes some time to fully cure, and until it does, your gun is really vulnerable to nicks and scratches. I have a couple of annoying ones on the RHS of my receiver.
Good luck!
Re: Dura coat
like the previous posters, i bought some from Midway and i applied it with my airbrush and a small airbrush compressor. basically i hit the slide of gun and my AK with Brake parts cleaner from the auto parts store, then i took a bit of 200grit sand paper and slightly scuffed it a bit so that the paint has something to hold on too. use light coats but multiple coats and you'll be fine. i did it in my garage w/ a wire hanger holding the slide, for the AK, i had to have a hook on the stock (romanian underfolder).
like the previous posters, i bought some from Midway and i applied it with my airbrush and a small airbrush compressor. basically i hit the slide of gun and my AK with Brake parts cleaner from the auto parts store, then i took a bit of 200grit sand paper and slightly scuffed it a bit so that the paint has something to hold on too. use light coats but multiple coats and you'll be fine. i did it in my garage w/ a wire hanger holding the slide, for the AK, i had to have a hook on the stock (romanian underfolder).
Re: Dura coat
forget sand paper... if you're gonna scuff it, use a scotchbrite scuff pad... also called a primer sanding pad at auto paint supply stores
forget sand paper... if you're gonna scuff it, use a scotchbrite scuff pad... also called a primer sanding pad at auto paint supply stores
Re: Dura coat
I have had good results with a cheap harbor freight air brush.
I found the hardest part was mixing up small quantities, harder, thinner, etc.
Another option that's been appealing is brownells alumahide products
I have had good results with a cheap harbor freight air brush.
I found the hardest part was mixing up small quantities, harder, thinner, etc.
Another option that's been appealing is brownells alumahide products
Re: Dura coat
I've applied Duracoat to two guns, a Harris bipod, about 20 AR mags, a Sigg water bottle, a toy gun I made for my son, etc. It is pretty easy to get good results as long as you follow the instructions that are included. As the previous posts stated, surface prep is key! If you can't get the gun blasted (or if it isn't already parkerized) scuff it up thoroughly with a scuff pad and degrease it.
I also use the Harbor Freight airbrush (the metal one) and an old air compressor I got from Wal Mart years ago to paint some model tanks.
I went overboard on my first gun (a 700 5R) and used six colors, what was supposed to be a cheap project got pretty expensive with six bottles of product, degreaser, a matte clear coat, stencils, and scratch pads. For the stock I used a flecktarn pattern and stencils from Lauer and Bulldog arms. For the metal I used coyote brown. I prefer the Bulldog arms stencils, they are cheaper and leave less residue.
http://www.stevensonenterprise.com/bulldogarms/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
I've applied Duracoat to two guns, a Harris bipod, about 20 AR mags, a Sigg water bottle, a toy gun I made for my son, etc. It is pretty easy to get good results as long as you follow the instructions that are included. As the previous posts stated, surface prep is key! If you can't get the gun blasted (or if it isn't already parkerized) scuff it up thoroughly with a scuff pad and degrease it.
I also use the Harbor Freight airbrush (the metal one) and an old air compressor I got from Wal Mart years ago to paint some model tanks.
I went overboard on my first gun (a 700 5R) and used six colors, what was supposed to be a cheap project got pretty expensive with six bottles of product, degreaser, a matte clear coat, stencils, and scratch pads. For the stock I used a flecktarn pattern and stencils from Lauer and Bulldog arms. For the metal I used coyote brown. I prefer the Bulldog arms stencils, they are cheaper and leave less residue.
http://www.stevensonenterprise.com/bulldogarms/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
Re: Dura coat
I have done a little bit of DuraCoating. I am not getting mine for 18 dollars for 8 ounces though. That is more the price for 4 ounces.
I have done a little bit of DuraCoating. I am not getting mine for 18 dollars for 8 ounces though. That is more the price for 4 ounces.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LT JGB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used duracoat on my Rem700 5R and my 40 S&W. I used two different colors and I purchased the shake n spray kits.
The prep work was tedious and time consuming.
Be sure you are in a well ventilated area and are wearing junky clothes and latex gloves; remove your watch and anything you don't want paint droplets to touch. The stuff has a really strong smell.
Go very easy. I told myself to applications light and I was still way to heavy on the first application...it makes a mess that is tedious to correct. Set aside a few hours to apply multiple light coats.
Although they say it dries and 10 minutes and you can use it the next day, the reality is that you don't want to touch your firearm for a couple of weeks. The duracoat really takes some time to fully cure, and until it does, your gun is really vulnerable to nicks and scratches. I have a couple of annoying ones on the RHS of my receiver.
Good luck! </div></div>
Duracoat smells good IMO, cerakote will kick you're butt if you don't wear a mask and have great ventilation.
Branden
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LT JGB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used duracoat on my Rem700 5R and my 40 S&W. I used two different colors and I purchased the shake n spray kits.
The prep work was tedious and time consuming.
Be sure you are in a well ventilated area and are wearing junky clothes and latex gloves; remove your watch and anything you don't want paint droplets to touch. The stuff has a really strong smell.
Go very easy. I told myself to applications light and I was still way to heavy on the first application...it makes a mess that is tedious to correct. Set aside a few hours to apply multiple light coats.
Although they say it dries and 10 minutes and you can use it the next day, the reality is that you don't want to touch your firearm for a couple of weeks. The duracoat really takes some time to fully cure, and until it does, your gun is really vulnerable to nicks and scratches. I have a couple of annoying ones on the RHS of my receiver.
Good luck! </div></div>
Duracoat smells good IMO, cerakote will kick you're butt if you don't wear a mask and have great ventilation.
Branden
Re: Dura coat
I've done a few, actually just finished my Tikka T-3/whiskey 3 combo in Sako green and HK black. Also a 1911 in HK black. I clean,blast and Parkerize. Then degrease and put it in my home made oven at 250 for an hour. Afterwards I let it cool and degrease again, then spray with an airbrush. I let it cure for about 30 minutes then in the oven 1-2 hours at 250. After cooling it's nice and hard and very smooth and consistent. I've had the best luck mixing it by weight and using about 10% reducer by weight. So far it's worked very well.
I've done a few, actually just finished my Tikka T-3/whiskey 3 combo in Sako green and HK black. Also a 1911 in HK black. I clean,blast and Parkerize. Then degrease and put it in my home made oven at 250 for an hour. Afterwards I let it cool and degrease again, then spray with an airbrush. I let it cure for about 30 minutes then in the oven 1-2 hours at 250. After cooling it's nice and hard and very smooth and consistent. I've had the best luck mixing it by weight and using about 10% reducer by weight. So far it's worked very well.
Re: Dura coat
Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
Re: Dura coat
I've been doing duracoating for a while now if you are patient you can get some amazing designs. The biggest thing is to take time in between layers of color so that they dry and are not tacky. It does take time to cure and harden. Make sure you do prep the surface correctly also do it in a clean area, I do not use the tape and spray duracoat sells I don't like the way it comes out. I use an airbrush and stencils and lots of patience. You can PM me if you have questions. If you make a mistake you can take some thinner and a q-tip and remove it and wait a while and fix it later. Also take the time to properly mask areas you do not want paint. The main thing be patient use an airbrush and be sure of where you want paint before you put it on.
I've been doing duracoating for a while now if you are patient you can get some amazing designs. The biggest thing is to take time in between layers of color so that they dry and are not tacky. It does take time to cure and harden. Make sure you do prep the surface correctly also do it in a clean area, I do not use the tape and spray duracoat sells I don't like the way it comes out. I use an airbrush and stencils and lots of patience. You can PM me if you have questions. If you make a mistake you can take some thinner and a q-tip and remove it and wait a while and fix it later. Also take the time to properly mask areas you do not want paint. The main thing be patient use an airbrush and be sure of where you want paint before you put it on.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ftspbr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone duracoated the inside of the action on a rem700? Any issues with bolt travel? </div></div>
I would just keep it light and I dont forsee you having any issues but I have seen cerakote cause issues with custom actions. I know it caused a factory action to not run as smooth. I have used 0000 steel wool on the inside of an action that was coated and it smoothed it out.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ftspbr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone duracoated the inside of the action on a rem700? Any issues with bolt travel? </div></div>
I would just keep it light and I dont forsee you having any issues but I have seen cerakote cause issues with custom actions. I know it caused a factory action to not run as smooth. I have used 0000 steel wool on the inside of an action that was coated and it smoothed it out.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ftspbr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone duracoated the inside of the action on a rem700? Any issues with bolt travel? </div></div>
You'll be better served not spraying the inside of the action with duracoat. If you're wanting to coat the inside, best to use bake on cerakote. Far more durable as well. Cerakote is just more of a PITA to use than duracoat.
Branden
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ftspbr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone duracoated the inside of the action on a rem700? Any issues with bolt travel? </div></div>
You'll be better served not spraying the inside of the action with duracoat. If you're wanting to coat the inside, best to use bake on cerakote. Far more durable as well. Cerakote is just more of a PITA to use than duracoat.
Branden
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: el gordo2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
</div></div>
Super nice color combo.... Great work.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: el gordo2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
Super nice color combo.... Great work.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: el gordo2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
</div></div>
Yeah think that looks really nice. I have been wanting to try to do a digi cam on a rifle for some time now. I am a little nervous about it, probably gonna do a trial run on something cheap to get a feel for it.
I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did.
Nice work, it gives me hope that mine might turn out decent
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: el gordo2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Duracoat is easy to apply and comes in many colors. I have been experimenting with colors that match my surroundings. They are not the colors you normally see in digital but I feel these are a fairly realistic in my area.
Am still working on it, though it doesn't have the cool factor of skulls or multicam and such and looks like hell up close but just back off and see what it does.
Yeah think that looks really nice. I have been wanting to try to do a digi cam on a rifle for some time now. I am a little nervous about it, probably gonna do a trial run on something cheap to get a feel for it.
I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did.
Nice work, it gives me hope that mine might turn out decent
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did. </div></div>
You need to work on your counting skillz
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did. </div></div>
You need to work on your counting skillz
Re: Dura coat
I have DC the inside of an action and the bolt of a 700, had no issues. It was a stock Remmy and the tolerances were farely loose, I would never dream of doing such a thing on a trued bolt/action.
My two cents; if there is someone near you who will do it for a decent price and knows what they are doing, you're better off dealing out the dollars. I have done about 12 weapons so far. I did 3 of my own first, the first one came out... not very good. The second, as little better. I more or less had it figured out by the third.
I have since invested in a blasting cabinet, degreasing tank, and a decent sprayer. Someone with more experience, better techniques, and the proper equip, can generally do a much higher-quality job than the do-it-yourselfer. That being said, I understand with the pride of being able to say "I did it myself" so if you want to, go for it. Of course, the do-it yourself jobs often come out quite good too.
And doing a hide search is quite possibly the single biggest thing that has helped me, with duracoating, and a number of other things.
Here is my most recent work:
![url]](http://[url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/dsc00254hu.jpg/"]http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/dsc00254hu.jpg/[/url])
I have DC the inside of an action and the bolt of a 700, had no issues. It was a stock Remmy and the tolerances were farely loose, I would never dream of doing such a thing on a trued bolt/action.
My two cents; if there is someone near you who will do it for a decent price and knows what they are doing, you're better off dealing out the dollars. I have done about 12 weapons so far. I did 3 of my own first, the first one came out... not very good. The second, as little better. I more or less had it figured out by the third.
I have since invested in a blasting cabinet, degreasing tank, and a decent sprayer. Someone with more experience, better techniques, and the proper equip, can generally do a much higher-quality job than the do-it-yourselfer. That being said, I understand with the pride of being able to say "I did it myself" so if you want to, go for it. Of course, the do-it yourself jobs often come out quite good too.
And doing a hide search is quite possibly the single biggest thing that has helped me, with duracoating, and a number of other things.
Here is my most recent work:
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARPredatorHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did. </div></div>
You need to work on your counting skillz
</div></div>
my eyes aren't what they used to be, i definitely missed out on the lighter color first time around.
so 4 colors it is
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARPredatorHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I really want 4 colors but i am thinking i should really stop at 3 like you did. </div></div>
You need to work on your counting skillz
my eyes aren't what they used to be, i definitely missed out on the lighter color first time around.
so 4 colors it is
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
</div></div>
VERY nice. Like the old school camo better!
I went to high school in Jacksonville NC. I feel bad for you hahaha
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
</div></div>
VERY nice. Like the old school camo better!
I went to high school in Jacksonville NC. I feel bad for you hahaha
![url]](http://[url="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j345/powerhouse450/IMG_3073.jpg"]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j345/powerhouse450/IMG_3073.jpg[/url])
Re: Dura coat
I used an airbrush to spray an AR handguard OD green in order to match a Magpul stock and grip. It held up very well, and I would use it again.
I've used duracoat, cerakote, alumahyde, and krylon... They all have their benefits.
I used an airbrush to spray an AR handguard OD green in order to match a Magpul stock and grip. It held up very well, and I would use it again.
I've used duracoat, cerakote, alumahyde, and krylon... They all have their benefits.
Re: Dura coat
I guess after reading this I'll attempt to duracoat my rifle, minus the bolt and inside the action. I guess if i botch it up to bad i could always blast it and try again with no harmful effects to the rifle, correct?
I guess after reading this I'll attempt to duracoat my rifle, minus the bolt and inside the action. I guess if i botch it up to bad i could always blast it and try again with no harmful effects to the rifle, correct?
Re: Dura coat
Yes trimmer, depending on how badly you botch it up, you may simply be able to sand/scuff and shoot right back over what's there, but blasting it off would probably be best.
Yes trimmer, depending on how badly you botch it up, you may simply be able to sand/scuff and shoot right back over what's there, but blasting it off would probably be best.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
</div></div>
What colors are those? Did you have to clear them when you were done to flatten them out?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: h2447intx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">any pics of what you have done , looking for a nice color combo
</div></div>
Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pics.
</div></div>
What colors are those? Did you have to clear them when you were done to flatten them out?
Re: Dura coat
[/quote]
What colors are those? Did you have to clear them when you were done to flatten them out? [/quote]
I used the following Duracoat Tactical Ultraflat colors;
Black
OD Green
Woodland green
Coyote brown
Dark earth
Desert brown
The action, barrel, and floorplate/triggerguard were done in coyote brown.
I should have used a clearcoat but didn't and I'm still debating about applying some despite the fact I did this gun almost two years ago. This was the first Duracoat project I had tackled and went a little heavy on the OD, the other colors blend with each other fairly well as is but I would need a lot of clearcoat to truly blend the OD. I used clearcoat on the second gun I did with great results.
[/quote]
What colors are those? Did you have to clear them when you were done to flatten them out? [/quote]
I used the following Duracoat Tactical Ultraflat colors;
Black
OD Green
Woodland green
Coyote brown
Dark earth
Desert brown
The action, barrel, and floorplate/triggerguard were done in coyote brown.
I should have used a clearcoat but didn't and I'm still debating about applying some despite the fact I did this gun almost two years ago. This was the first Duracoat project I had tackled and went a little heavy on the OD, the other colors blend with each other fairly well as is but I would need a lot of clearcoat to truly blend the OD. I used clearcoat on the second gun I did with great results.
Re: Dura coat
Thanks! J-Ville is OK... I won't miss it when I leave. At least NC is fairly gun friendly.
Thanks! J-Ville is OK... I won't miss it when I leave. At least NC is fairly gun friendly.
Re: Dura coat
How has your Duracoat experience been so far? I have been reading everything I can about different spray on coatings. It seems a lot of people like the Cerakote, but I am a DIY'er and do not have all the necessary equipment for the Cerakote and have been leaning toward Duracoat.
How has your Duracoat experience been so far? I have been reading everything I can about different spray on coatings. It seems a lot of people like the Cerakote, but I am a DIY'er and do not have all the necessary equipment for the Cerakote and have been leaning toward Duracoat.
Re: Dura coat
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Roboto1138</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How has your Duracoat experience been so far? I have been reading everything I can about different spray on coatings. It seems a lot of people like the Cerakote, but I am a DIY'er and do not have all the necessary equipment for the Cerakote and have been leaning toward Duracoat. </div></div>
Cerakote has an air cure now. I haven't used it yet but from my understanding you can apply it like Duracoat with an airbrush.
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Roboto1138</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How has your Duracoat experience been so far? I have been reading everything I can about different spray on coatings. It seems a lot of people like the Cerakote, but I am a DIY'er and do not have all the necessary equipment for the Cerakote and have been leaning toward Duracoat. </div></div>
Cerakote has an air cure now. I haven't used it yet but from my understanding you can apply it like Duracoat with an airbrush.
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
